2022 RAD Li-ion Long Range FPV Build : FalconRad FPV
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2024
- This long range FPV build uses top quality T-Motor parts for improved efficiency and reliability. Includes EVERY part of the build process, and I talk through the details of each step as I go. I also cover waterproofing the components with silicone conformal coating. This isn't just another build, a long range drone HAS TO BE well made. I'll be trusting it with an expensive GoPro in UNRECOVERABLE locations so reliability is essential. Video chapter list below.
I design my own long range FPV frames, I have two very different 7" designs:
RAD Li-ion long range FPV frame @ CNCDrones: bit.ly/3MFoCdg
AOS Falcon 7 long range FPV frame @ CNCDrones: bit.ly/3jUiLUI
NEW 2022 long range build (Powered by T-Motor : Props by Gemfan)
T-Motor F7 Pro Flight controller - bit.ly/3xtW1mE
T-Motor F55 ProII ESC - bit.ly/3uITNOF
T-Motor F90 1300kv Motors - bit.ly/3M4fjDg
Gemfan 7037x3 7" props - bit.ly/3rvCz5f
TureRC Singularity VTX antenna - bit.ly/3xvXFEg
Rush Solo VTX - bit.ly/3JHWW5l
TBS Crossfire Diversity Receiver - bit.ly/3xuMGv8
Runcam Eagle V3 19x19 FPV camera (analog) - bit.ly/3JL88OT
Matek M8Q-5883 GPS - bit.ly/3uJjRci
TBS Immortal T Receiver antenna - bit.ly/3jG7o2L
Video Chapters:
00:00 - Rad Li-ion 7" Long Range Build
00:15 - Flight Footage
00:45 - Introduction
02:25 - Fasteners for Main Stack
02:58 - T-Motor F90 1300kv Motors
06:08 - T-Motor F55 Pro II 55 amp ESC - XT60's
13:05 - T-Motor F55 Pro II 55 amp ESC - Capacitor
15:13 - T-Motor F55 Pro II 55 amp ESC - Motor wires
21:58 - T-Motor F55 Pro II 55 amp ESC - Conformal coating
25:35 - T-Motor F7 Pro flight controller
38:22 - Runcam Eagle V3 19x19 FPV Camera
46:16 - Rush Solo VTX
52:21 - TBS Crossfire Diversity Nano Receiver
1:01:46 - Matek M8Q-5883 GPS
1:06:00 - SMA & GPS Mounts + Receiver Cover
1:11:52 - Taking Care of Loose Wires
1:13:47 - Conformal Coating Top of Flight Controller
1:17:25 - More Loose Wires
1:19:58 - GoPro & Immortal T Mounts
1:24:19 - Top Plate
1:24:50 - Zip Ties
1:26:45 - Arm Braces & Second Half of Motor Fasteners
1:28:32 - Final words - Ending - Video Suggestions
can watch this all day!! great stuff!!
❤❤lots of love to you for putting this amazing build video together!! its truly inspiring!
You're welcome! I hope it helps you out, what ever quad your building.
Thank you! This is a very good one …so precise and detailed! Bravo 👏
You're very welcome!
I much appreciate the detail of your build and your tutorials. I like to cover the capacitor leads with shrink tubing.
Lol, yes me to, I knew I would forget something...
Something I've been adding to my designs on the arms, is a single little 2mm nub near the body and also one near the motor to keep the darn zipties from slipping around. Keeps those style of landing skids in place and will also keep the motor wires nice and neat. I highly recommend it 😉
That's a great idea! Ya no matter how tight they are they still slip eventually, but I do prefer the look of a couple zip ties over electrical tape. May have to try some arm nubs on my next frame, thanks for the idea.
Thanks for a build video, I was getting bored with other people just doing new product reviews of the same product that everyone else is doing. This build reminds me of the days when I first got into FPV. I almost forgot, thanks for showing not to coat the barometer, I've never used conformal coating before, but I'm going to on my next build. I have the same stack as you used in this video too; so that was perfect. Thanks again, nice build.
No problem 👍 and thanks!
Make sure you coat after you are done soldering components… except for the bottom of the ESC. I recently coated the FC first and ended up burning the board out because it took so much heat to get through the coating, what a mess. 😝
Love it, thank you for sharing this knowledge !
Glad it was helpful!
Great build video, itching to build one, Cheers!
Thanks man! I am building my first 7" I got the aos falcon 7"...I was watching one of your flight videos and I live in cascade mountain range in Washington state so we have very similar terrain...once I saw you surfing the mountains I knew I had to get into the 7" game! Thanks for the awesome videos very very thorough!
I'm building a bigger quad right now as well. It's an 8" frame a friend gave me, but I don't know what frame is. What motors and rx are you planning to throw on your new build?
@@opossumfpv I'm going with the mamba h7 mk4 fc and the 65a stack it's overkill but I'm running the iflight 2806.5 1800kv motors gonna but a throttle limit on it 1800kv is pretty high for 7" but it will have plenty of power and at the same time with the limit be easier on the gear while achieving the same performance.
If your going digital you will need the 200mm dji mipi cable and it helps to have mmcx to rp-sma whips so you can mount longer vtx antenna to get above the battery. That's if your going digital and if you plan on long range.
@@opossumfpv oh sorry missed the rx question I'm going with crossfire diversity rx but the nano pro would suffice aswell.
Awesome...thanks for sharing friend
Love the front antenna mount. I usually heat all my tpu antenna mounts to bend my antenna down below bpdy
Thanks!
Very good. Useful information and advice. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
always interesting content 👌👏🙏🏼
Well done video! Anytime I install an capacitor, especially with more than a few mm of capacitor leads I always cover the bare leads with heat shrink…
Thanks!
Thak you dear sir for your answer .Big day today;ive finished my 5"er and already i purchased my &inch frame .It is a KX302 ,and i make notes of every single detail; of your build and i will follow it(down to the motor cable covering mesh lol)by now i had watchd all of your videos .What fantastic futages,only one thing co0nfuses me ;11.8K subscribers??whats wrong with the people .This is like the Oxford of FPV.Thank you for the share You and your Beloved are the coolest FPV Pilot-CO-Pilots
Thanks very much for the comment, much appreciated!
nice build dude !!
Thanks!
I gave the thums up and subscribed ,im new in the world of FPV but im certainly attracted by this side of it :long range and admiration of scenery ,im just about to build my first drone (a 5in. one) and yours will be my second ,i dont care how advanced is ,i am a very fast learner if i put my passion into something also im the one who enjoys even soldering .You have my admiration sir ,bright blessings )O(
Thanks! Well if your 5" build goes well the 7" won't be any harder to put together, it just doesn't stand up to crashing as well. The frame would likely be fine but with the weight including the bigger batteries often the motor bearing will get roughed up more easily on a 7" quad. Some might not really worry about it but I prefer nice smooth motors for the cleanest GoPro footage possible.
After building I have one suggestion if you'd like to humor me. I think the pressnuts for the arms should be on the top / mid plate. Currently you have to move your motor wires / sheath aside to get at the hexbolt. This would be better if it was inverted so you can access the hex bolt from the bottom. Thanks so much now I just need the rain to stop!
Sure hope you get to fly it soon!
@@FalconRadFPV I did! Love the setup, Im getting really good flight times (15-16mins) on a Iflight Sendit 4000mah 6s pack. My goggles overheated during a dual battery test so I have to run it again. Would you put smaller packs for dual battery configuration? ie: 2X 3000mah 6s?
Super
Looking at following in your..props @FalconRad FPV and building one of these to do some LR in Squamish. On this build do you prefer the 2X 6s setup or the 8S setup you tried?
I get more range with the 2 x 6s packs. The single 8s pack works well for mid range, it fly's a bit nicer with the reduced weight.
I don't know why but I've watched whole 1.5h of this video even tho I am not ready for such a drone ;)
I have few questions concerning the build:
is soldering motor wires in such a way beneficial ?
The wires from receiver are going over the edge of the arm, i know they are filed but still wouldn't it be better to heatshrink them just in case?
Thanks for watching and for the comment. Soldering the motor wires this way just makes it look cleaner, no other real benefit from it. The receiver wire is fairly tough, in my opinion it's fine to mount the way I have. Of course you could add heat shrink to it if you wanted to.
Nice buildt :) love your content.... do you ever tried iNav over Betaflight for the better and more reliable GPS Rescue mode? What have your experience be if so? and if you dont have tryed specific reason for that? I am so scared to lose another quad with expensive Hero10 on it...
I actually trust GPS rescue mode even less now with BF 4.2 It used to be more responsive in BF 4.1.7. I have been told many times that INav is more reliable for GPS functions but I don't use it myself. I have enough experience now that I rarely use GPS rescue mode. I usually just switch to auto level and hit the throttle until I get enough height over the obstacle.
@@FalconRadFPV thank you! Is it official that GPS Rescue is getting worse since 4.1.7`? I cant find any information about it....do you think 4.3 GPS Rescue is fixed again?
Hi man, thanks for the video. What's the frame weight? ( With tpu part)
And what's the final weight of the quad? Thanks in advance
Here's the info video for the frame. It has all of the info.
czcams.com/video/4rwsv-dNwyk/video.html
Great build video. Revisiting to take some notes. Appreciate the details and insights.
Is there a reason for flying 7" x 3 blade propellers on Long Range build vs bi-blades?
Curious as I'm more familiar with 4-5" quads, where free-style models are typically tri-blade, and LR models are bi-blade. I have assumed bi-blades would be more efficient. Perhaps I'm overlooking something related elevation, or overall weight, or current using 8s power.
My own 8s stuff is all experimental, not recommended. But try if you want! I use tri blades over bi blades because for me getting nice looking video is more important that a few percent more efficient. If I don't care about GoPro footage at all then I use my light weight version and get way more range, this one just sounds better with tri blades. The bi blades give more vibrations in the frame.
@@FalconRadFPV Thanks for the insight regarding propeller vibrations. Hadn't considered.
Man I want to get into long range mountain surfing! Just subbed to your channel yesterday. Just wondering, what are your thoughts on analog vs HDZero vs DJI/Fatshark for long range, specifically this type of long range?
I'm thinking of trying out HDzero maybe, I don't like the reset lag on the DJI video. It's really robust but then it just freezes for a while, HDzero and analog just get totally fuzzy for a sec but then you can see again instead of waiting for it to unfreeze. I think DJI is the only one that requires full frames of info to continue video.
@@FalconRadFPV Thanks for replying, am very interested in HDZero for long range
Great build video. Missing one key point i am looking for in my own builds but can not find any proper video for on the net. How did you make the back sma crossfire antenna ? Or did you buy it ready made ? Is it 868Mhz (as that is specificaly hard to find build /measures instructions for ). Any help would be greatly appreciated.
check out this video for info about the crossfire dipole antenna that I made.
czcams.com/video/oEI70rn8Fy0/video.html
Getting ready for the maiden, I have mostly replicated your build, only using a runcam 5 instead of gopro. Do you mind sharing your betaflight profile?
Sure, email me at falconradfpv@gmail.com and let me know if you want a config dump or to see some screen grabs of the pids or whatever. Or if you just need a quick version here you go:
All with BF 4.2 I'm NOT using BF 4.3 yet.
PID sliders:
- Master 1.3, balance 1.1, gain 1.2, sticks 0.5
or this
-Master 1.2, balance 1.1, gain 1.3, sticks 0.5
A setpoint of 12 and I left D min turned on.
I'm using fairly tame filter settings, got rpm filter and dynamic filters on, gyro slider at 1.4 d term at 1.3
My rates are low, using actual they are 40 for center stick and 360 to 320 for max rate with 35% expo. Nice and soft to avoid over correcting in case of a sudden maneuver (like dodging a branch that you just noticed).
I'm looking for a new 7 inch frame and this one looks very good. But I need to know if it can host a 22mm size FPV camera ? Thanks
No a 22mm FPV cam won't fit properly. It's best with a 19mm camera.
How do you connect backup battery to the crsf diversity receiver for have tbs find mode?
You need to find the right pins on a pinout sheet for the RX. It needs to have a battery management system connected to a single cell battery. It only works with the full size TX. I tried and discovered that the smaller TX's don't work for the find mode.
after a lot of thinking and even more saving (kids are expensive) I have just finished building one of these. Do you have a repo for betaflight presets as a starting point for tuning this bad boy?
I'm still on BF 4.2 for this build, I'm putting BF 4.3 on all my new builds. If you email me at falconradfpv@gmail.com I'll attach some screen grabs of my BF settings and a diff all. I plan on making a new BF 4.3 settings video for the RAD Li-ion and Falcon 7 in a month or two after I get past a couple of up coming frame releases I'll be doing a BF 4.3 settings video for each frame.
Ok noob here.. 2 xt60 wires makes 12s battery or will it work like a parrallel thing??
Hey Rad, I sent the files for the TPU to Brain 3D and he printed all but 2 of the most important pieces ( in my opinion), the front Immortal-T mount, and the GPS mount. I quote -“Rad_Front_Immortal_T_Mount = No Print (Rough Design)
RAD_GPS_M8Q-5883_Mount = No Print (Rough Design) “
- He stated that, “ Those two designs were just very rough designs with a ton of steep overhangs and troublesome areas. We can't confidently print those to our standard the way they are designed.”
I appreciate the integrity 3D has and their commitment to a standard of quality. What do you think? Are their other options? It might help if I knew the distance between the front and rear standoffs. Thanks for your creative nature.
Well I'm not a pro at designing 3d prints and I know Brain3D is going to have better quality standards than me as far as what I'm ok with. If you want to email me at falconradfpv@gmail.com we can get you sorted out. I'll just mail you the parts for free, as long as you're ok with either red, black or clear for the part color I have a bunch of prints already made up.
I know that some of my TPU parts designs are difficult to print and removing the supports takes a bit of patience.
What will be the effect on fly time if we use 1700-1800 kV motors?
1800 kv on 7 inch props? The flight time would be lower unless you were VERY careful with the throttle. Generally the lower the KV the lower the internal resistance of the motor. The lower the internal resistance the more efficient the motor, generally speaking.
As well with 1700 or 1800 kv on 6s you would be able to pull enough amps to seriously damage a li-ion battery. They require careful balancing of weight, motor KV and prop pitch to keep the amp draw to a reasonable level. What defines a "reasonable level" would be the limitations of the particular li-ion cells being used. All li-ion cells are different, there is quite a bit of data to compare when going over the manufactures data sheet. If you can't find a data sheet for a li-ion cell (check 18650batterystore.com they have them for all good brands) then it likely isn't a good quality li-ion cell and should be avoided (often lie about mah or amps). Trust what data sheets say not advertising.
Have you compared vtx rushtank solo with akk ultra for longrange, what's the difference?
No I have not. I used to have an AKK ultra but it got smashed in a crash...
What is you expirience with long dive´s? Do you have any problem with a burned ESC? When you dive and the wind will spin up the props, the Motors will act more like a generator. I heard of crashed Qwad´s because of burned ESC. So i am not shure about that. Is it save to fly stock settings (BLHELI_32) or is there some settings that can prevent for damage like this?
Amazing looking LR quad! What is the purpose of 2 batteries? Are they connected together? Great video!
The purpose is to have 6s2p with of power without needing a giant top plate to hold it. This design minimizes the prop spacing keeping the motor as close in as possible while still managing to carry 6s2p comfortably. A single pack made in 6s2p configuration is quite large.
@@FalconRadFPV wow, awesome! I didn't know that. Is it also meant to make longer flight times?
I have an elementary question that I should know the answer to, but never asked. What does the “p“ stand for or mean in 6s2p?
@@gregstewart4692 number of cells in a pack that are wired parallel
Do you have a frame build guide? Just wondering to match up all the hardware this starts kinda far in?
I figured it out but for others it might be nice even if its on the rotorbuilds page, frame page or in a video. Its a sweet build I got the Iflight send it 4000mah 6s batteries to try out.
This is sort of the prequel to that video. It covers all of the parts to be used. But ya good idea to make a post on rotorbuilds! Good luck!
Hello! Can you tell me what antennas you use in the TBS Crossfire diversity and where I can get them?
TrueRC sell a bardpole that I like to use for a rear vertical antenna. and the second antenna I just use an extra extended Immortal T. Any big FPV shop like GETFPV should sell them.
Hi, I purchased your frame and printed out the vista mount but I really don't know how to mount it. Do I mount it in the rear upside down after I pushed it through the stand off of the top plate? Thank you for your time
You don't really need the vista mount, you can just mount it in the back with the 20x20 holes in the rear. I made the vista mount before adjusting the rear 20x20. So it should work either way. With the mount I would install the vista into it and then install the standoffs on to the main plate, then slide the vista mount over the standoffs. The intension is for the mount to be installed the way it is in the thingyverse picture and with the vista inside of it right side up. You can email me at Falconradfpv@gmail.com if you have anymore questions, I'm here to help out.
Is there any way to bring back to life a L-ion 6s with the cells made up of your choice cells? I lost a 5-inch quad with that battery on it using the DJI controller when I lost signal at 3000 ft up and only 200 yds away. A neighbor saw the light flashing from the beeper where the quad landed about a mile away from where I lost signal. He watched the video in the air unit and saw where I lived
If it's reads as dead when the balance lead is plugged into a charger then I'm not sure. Some chargers will charge batteries with cells that read low, they often charge at very low amps until a certain voltage then step it up. But as far as jump starting a pack that doesn't register voltage on the charger display I'm not sure. After I kill a pack badly and manage to charge it back up I always use those ones just as my warm up packs.
Hi. I'd like to ask you something. I'm building 7" quad and I'm using T motor f4, F55A pro II, T motor F90 1300kv. So I'd like to use sometimes 2 pakes 6s Li ion 2600mah each and sometimes only 1 pake - how to do this. So my question is what kind capacitor to use? Could you share with your rates and pids. Thanks Sebastian 😊
For 6s I like to use a 1000uf 50 volt capacitor. Many people use 35 volt capacitors though. I might do another betaflight settings video with PID's etc... but not for a while. I basically turn up the master slider 2 or 3 notches and the pd gain 1 or 2 notches. PD balance 1.1 or 1.2 And stick sensitivity down to 0.5 or 0.7. My rates using Actual in BF. My max rates are 360 for roll, 340 for pitch and 320 for yaw, and all are at 40 for center stick sensitivity, and about 35% expo on all.
Does the f7 pro have osd when running analog? Everything I'm seeing says it does but I may be getting confused with the hd that may not have it. Lol. I'm in a FC daze.
Yes it does have an analog OSD. I've been using it.
Hi @FalconRad FPV, what do you think about Gemfan 7037 Carbon Nylon props, have you tried them? What disadvantages comparing with Polycarbonate?
I tested them a little bit and the CF nylon are way stiffer. The weight is nearly identical. The poly ones are much more durable, the CF nylon shatter on impact with hard objects. I'll probably stick with the poly ones for the durability. Can't get home from a long range flight if missing a prop!
@@FalconRadFPV :), nice, thanks for the feedback!
Will this GPS and SMA mount fit the Falcon 7? Have the same GPS unit shown here and the Falcon 7 GPS/SMA mount (w/ bardpole) are for the SAM MQ8 (as you know). prefer to continue the Falcon 7 build with the MQ8-5883 --then buy this frame and use the MQ10-5883 which will fit the 3D print perfectly...without remixing...thanks in advance!
The Rad and Falcon mounts are different, but there should be similar mounts available on thingiverse for both frames.
What antenna's are you using with the crossfire diversity? I know one's linked in descriptions and is an extended immortal-T but what is the other on the back that has an SMA connector?
The other one is a DIY linear antenna. I might make a video about making it....
@@FalconRadFPV That would be awesome. I made helical antenna's for my goggles based off your other video and love them for long range.
You have any idea if the chimera 7 v1 frame will fit 7.5" props? Looking at mine it looks like it will
I'm not sure, I've never flown a Chimera 7. I make all the frames that I fly for the past few years. You'll need about an extra 6mm of clearance for the 7.5" prop.
Yes it does. It seems a little less stable with 7.5" so I still use 7". I think this is why the Pro version uses larger motors for 7.5".
Is this frame/build suitable for high speed cruising? (about 80km/h)
My 8" with a 3500 6s cruises about that fast
Why do the GPS and vtx wires get routed outside the standoffs instead of in between?
I like to avoid having wires set right beside the main power leads (to avoid interference) and I also like to have as little wiring as possible touching the FC (to avoid unneeded gyro noise).
@@FalconRadFPV thanks for clearing that up! I wouldn't have thought of that without adding noise to some builds first
looks cool! I was wondering if I could fly the frame with 2807 1700kv Motors on 4S, or is it too heavy and needs to be flown on 6s?
Ya 1700kv with 2807 should work fine on 4s. You'll want a bit more aggressive of a prop though, like a 7040, maybe even 7045.
@@FalconRadFPV perfect!👍 What flight time can I expect on a 4s 2300mah lipo (800g AUW, 7040 props)?
and would you recommend a 2 or 3 blade prop?
Why dont Conformal coating "all of the top" T-Motor F55 Pro II 55 amp ESC? only in motor wire, and power?
The entire ESC has been conformal coated when it was made. They only left the tabs for the motor wires and power un-coated. I checked with T-Motor and they confirmed that it has been coated at the factory.
Have a link for the antenna on the left (view facing fwd)? believe it's for your crossfire receiver? thanks again!!
I made it myself, I might do a video about it soon. It's a sleeve dipole.
@@FalconRadFPV wow!! That's awesome!!
i wish i can be like u...if u dont mind can u teach me to make li ion battery.
im your fan from Malaysia.
Hay man go into his channel, he has a video on how to make a li-ion pack 👍
Check out the quads and gear playlist on my CZcams page. There are a couple of videos about li-ion in there.
Hi again!
58:47 One question, why did you prefer to place the VTX at the bottom of the quad instead at the back of the camera?
Does it help in any case for long range to have a more stable link quality with the radio?
Thankls again for your videos. Shots are amazing! Greetings from Mexico 🌮 🍻
I put the VTX at the back to keep the sma connection as short as possible for minimal signal loss between the VTX's RF amplifier and the antenna.
@@FalconRadFPV thanks 👍 I think I need to reduce mine too
Any difference running 2 XT60's instead of a harness to connect 2 seperate batterys into 1 XT60?
A bit less weight using the two XT 60's, no difference electrically. With this build one battery is mounted on top and the other underneath. I think it's easier to connect using two XT60 leads, one out the back for the top battery and one out the side for the bottom mounted battery. Using a y harness you would just have to pay extra attention to keep all of the wires away from the props.
@@FalconRadFPV ah ok makes sense 👍
why not use lipo element on tbs nanodiversity?
The backup battery for the TBS diversity receiver ONLY works with the full and lite TX units, I'm using a nano TX on an X-lite transmitter right now so I can not pick up the beacon signal it gives after switching to the backup battery power. I actually just looked into getting a full size one so that I could make use of this very thing, but they are sold out EVERYWHERE?!
Hello to all. need to raise money for full size crosfaier 😀😉
friend I have a question, why do you never use the antennas that come with crossfire diversity nano? are not so good? I see that you almost always use the bardpole
They are just hard to work with and the connecting wire length is too short for my builds.
I noticed at the top of the stack you use some plastic screws. It seems like they might loosen pretty easily or did you apply a dab of glue to them?
I find the rubber spacers allpy a constant pressure on the nuts which prevents them from spinning freely, even with vibrations. Out of 4 or 5 quads, I've had one nut come off of one stack in the last year. I have one quad that I don't even use nuts on the stack since the FC's rubber grommets fit so tightly.
@@FalconRadFPV Yeah I never thought of that. Where is the stack going to go anyway :)
Does the air unit fit in the frame??
This frame only fits a vista unit. My Falcon 7 frames is a bit bigger and fits a full size air unit.
Which radio transmitter are you using?
I've been using an x-lite, just because it's nice and small but the gimbles are crap and have a short throw. I just got a radiomaster tx16sto replace the x-lite.
Do you prefer digital or analog for long range?
I have only ever flown analog myself.
In all the configuration I don't see buzzer, don't you use it?
DShoot beeper, its right above the regular beeper settings. It works via aux switch just the same. But also will be installing a flywoo finder beeper in this soon. I just discovered that I can hook up extra leds and or beepers is desired.
Are you planning on doing another video on bf setup?
I might try making another one after getting the battery video done. I've been really busy with work and just got back from holiday as well. So I have lots of new footage but not much time for editing lately.
@@FalconRadFPV no worries just ordered the frame and all the parts through your links and am looking forward to building it. I appreciate all you do for the community
Where do you get the red 3-D print pieces or do you make those yourself?
The 3D prints are all available on thingiverse, just search for "rad li-ion".
@@FalconRadFPV Thanks alot! I found the website. Great build video!
Just wondering what functionality you get with the GPS unit on an FPV quad?
The most helpful is an arrow that points you towards home. It actually gets pretty hard to recognize the home point if you get far away from it. It will track how far you have flown as well as give you your current speed. All helpful stats when trying to calculate how far you can fly. Helps to maintain a constant 50 or 60 kph for efficiency when covering a long distance. And of course the GPS allows a person to use the GPS rescue feature which will automatically fly the drone back towards the home point when the connection is lost.
@@FalconRadFPV I had no idea FPV drones could have a return to home function.
Is the wifi/ bluetooth F7 necessary or could you get a normal F7 without bluetooth/wifi?
You only need the wifi and bluetooth if you plan on using it for tuning and updates, but it is not needed at all. But I do still recommend this flight controller, it has nice clean regulated power and low interference which means I get a better satellite count with the GPS than with some other flight controllers, also I've never had any issues with gyro noise or tuning, again I believe due to it's clean 5v power and there seems to be no electrical interference issues at all. I can usually get about 20 sats with this build even though the crossfire and VTX power are both turn way up.
Hi FalconRad, can I use this frame with an dji air unit? or is designed just for analog
This one only fits a vista. The Falcon 7 will fit an air unit though.
@@FalconRadFPV Nice, thank you for your answer
how do you like t-motor f90?
I've really been liking them a lot, they're quite good.
What software are you running? BF or inav, and what version?
I think BF beacuse he's not using rth that much and inav is better in waypoints and rth
Yup hes running BF
Ya BF 4.2 I occasionally feel like going back to 4.1.7 though for the more responsive GPS rescue mode. I'll hold off on 4.3 a bit longer to ensure the bugs are all worked out.
@@FalconRadFPV my big problem: if i have a failsafe even with gps rescue my quad ways drops a lot at first, but i fly really close to trees and hills so gps rescue doesnt help me most of the time sadly.... + I have to update all quads to BF4.3 because i use DJI and i have to use the custom version for being able to see RSSI & LQ (ELRS) in my goggle....any tipps😬😬 don't want to loose a quad plus GoPro again because of this stupid drop
@@FreshPanda97 Maybe you solved this now, but I had this problem too on 7". I think the rescue defaults are tuned for a lighter 5". If you increase gps_rescue_throttle_min (I use 1320) it prevents the drop before rescue begins actively adjusting throttle. You'll need to test this in an open space to get the value correct, not too high or it won't descend. I set gps_rescue_throttle_hover to approx cruise throttle (1450) rather than hover. You can also fine tune the rescue throttle PID values to get the return flight level, which helps to avoid excess battery draw.
Use hot air for the heat shrink tube. 😂 Why does everyone use a lighter?
Why 7" over any other like 6" or 8" ect?
The bigger the prop the better the efficiency, but the bigger the prop the worse the prop vibrations are. 7" is a good sweet spot, much more efficient than a 5" prop but the vibrations aren't too bad at that size. As well the bigger a prop is the slower it needs to spin and the vibrations it creates become a lower frequency which is bad for quads. We went all the vibrations to be as high a frequency as possible for easier filtering.
@@FalconRadFPV this make sense obviously but I have found from another authors and my own build that 6" double blade props with that frame may be also as much efficient or even more. You got very heavy frame with that 7" and I manage to get a 6" frame with dry weight of only 70grams. Fixing very lightweight motors of 1500kv and 6" props gave me very good efficiency in compare to 5" acro quads like nazgul. My 6" quad with go pro 8black on top and single 2000mah 4s lipo can go for over 15mins easily. You don't need any longer usually. You gotta stack two big and heavy lion's after what I could see. Have you tried with one battery at all? Excessive weight in the drone builds really takes way more current amps then it would in lighter combination. I still try to find a sweet spot but for me with all respect to your great work I don't see the best possible combination in your proposed drones. How would you reply to this?
why do you cover the motor wires? Looks or function?
Mostly for looks, but it does protect the wires a bit. The silicone covering is a bit soft and can be torn by a branch strike or similar incident.
@@FalconRadFPV Thanks!
Moisture and water doesn't discriminate. Conformal coat every part of your electronics, both top and bottom. Just saying. Great video though and content
If you watched the video that is exactly what I did, except for the parts that don't need it.
How much flighttime can you squeeze out of this 7incher?
hey brother i'm beginner for drone tech, but have a great ambition to work on it from my childhood. the drone parts are not that much available in my country. i live in Ethiopia. i have seen a lot of videos from CZcams about drones. but i haven't seen such a wonderful channel that shows each and every step like this. thank u bro thank you very much. but if it is ur good willing could you send me a video of the remote controller part pleaseee? because u used some additional antennas for this best long range drone bro to make it more better. please post the remote controller part please if u can? told u i'm beginner please bro
Check out this video for info about my transmitter and control link.
czcams.com/video/uJTIoqfgb0k/video.html
This is another similar one about my video setup.
czcams.com/video/FJ2Q6tZvGeY/video.html
It's a lot to learn at first, check out Joshua Bardwell on youtube for videos to help with setting up the electronics. He has hundred's of videos about building fpv drones.
@@FalconRadFPV thank you bro thank you very much
@@FalconRadFPV and bro another question from hdzero freestyle 1W vtx and foxeer reaper 2.5w vtx which is better? if try them both
Hi again Rad. I emailed you but never got a response. I don’t know if I got the address wrong or if you were just too busy. I have the Li-Ion frame and all of the components. Brain 3d prints are on the way. I am waiting to hear from you.
Sorry, been really busy. I've sent off a response for you.
Speaking of conformal coating, Have you seen what FlyDaze is subjecting his quads to? czcams.com/video/d1-DBgje2dA/video.html
Just watched, that's crazy! Pretty good results!
How much does it weigh? Frame, hardware and TPU items.
Here all the details are in this video about the frame. czcams.com/video/4rwsv-dNwyk/video.html
do you know the total cost? including batteries?
I'm not sure, you would have to make a list of the parts you need and add it up. My set of 6 batteries alone was a couple hundred dollars., a full quad usually costs about $500 to $700.