■ A new video of the cherry desk series with one of the leg assembly joinery. A much longer one than I usually make, hope you'll find it interesting showing the process in more details. Enjoy!
The pegging of the joints is called "Draw Boring". We use this in timber framing to draw members together. A rule of thumb is to "point to the Joint" meaning the hole in the tenon is placed toward the joint in order to draw the tenon tight to the mortice shoulder! Great video!!
Great vid! Though I loved your previous videos, I much prefer when it.s more detailed like this one. Keep up like this! Can’t wait to watch the next one.
Thanks! The project all together will be at the end, all condensed into a 8-10 min video. I've exploit this one into several longer vids cause it was a more longer build. Glad you find it useful!
Thanks! Indeed, they will be hidden. I had an idea to make them outside, with square plugs, pyramids, like I did on other projects, but didnt seem to fit the design
How do you determine the angle at the joint as a new learner? If I am making table leg Based on the height of table and angle I don't want the leg should stay under table top only.
I drive the Transit for my county, so no lockdown for me. Wife is scared to death I'm going to catch something and die on her. Working in a mask and nitrile gloves isn't fun.
Nice video, Adrian. Nice job done. Did you first have western chisels for the "rough" and for the "fine" did you use Japanese chisels? Smile I also have such a "table broom". :-) Looking forward to the continuation. Take care and stay healthy!
Hello Adrian, Thanks for the answer. Nagut I had a 10 piece long ago. Set "for beginners" bought from Dictum, who had bought just under € 200. But I noticed that you can work better with them than with the western ones and that if you treat them incorrectly, they can break off on the cutting edge. :-D :-D Greetings from Germany.
Those mine are 40-45 euro each, 5 pieces, so same 200 :)) Yes, I feel more comfortable using them, better grip and approach of the marking line. The hard steel part being more brittle is very easy to brake them if not careful
Thanks. I just thought the proportions of the mallet were very appealing. It’s a good looking mallet. I know. That a chunk of log can work just as well; But, there is nothing wrong with it being a good looking chunk of log.
Adrian, I always waffle between hand planing project parts before doing joinery (risking that they might get dinged up from being worked on over the course of the project), and just sanding the whole project after glue up (where getting into tight corners is difficult). Can you elaborate on your approach here?
Yes, I wanted to explain more in the video but didn't knew how to embed that :)) First, the legs, the tenons. I only planed the short faces, those that get inside the mortise or that slot how it's called on a bridle joint. I feel more comfortable dealing with the final width of the piece when taking measurements when marking. And I only planed the ends, not the entire faces of the piece. Also here is a special case, the legs will be tapered, so finish will be required on the remaining unplaned places. Second, that upper connecting piece. There is another situation(s). (1) The legs will be proud on the outer sides, can be seen when I assemble them in the video. After glue up it will be difficult to sand, planing impossible. So I've planed to remove all the marks (there are planer marks, more deep than saw ones), and before I assemble and glue it I will just hit some 360 sandpaper to smooth it. (2) When dealing with pieces with holes/slots on the surface like this I sometimes brake the edges of those when planing and/or sanding, or even round a little the edges, so to avoid that I plane almost to finish those respective faces. Indeed I all cases there is a risk to make some dents with chips while clamping and chiseling on the bench, but I take more care with these . To resume, I only planed the faces of the parts that makes more trouble afterwards, not the entire piece.
■ A new video of the cherry desk series with one of the leg assembly joinery. A much longer one than I usually make, hope you'll find it interesting showing the process in more details. Enjoy!
Thanx for the longer vid. Big fan. 🍻
The pegging of the joints is called "Draw Boring". We use this in timber framing to draw members together. A rule of thumb is to "point to the Joint" meaning the hole in the tenon is placed toward the joint in order to draw the tenon tight to the mortice shoulder! Great video!!
Thanks! I knew something about the terminology but wasn't sure enough
You are a master craftsman, Adrian! Thank you for the videos and your artisan flair.
Thank you very much!
With all the extra time on my hands I’m glad there’s a special long video today :) thanks
Thanks! And enjoy it!
Couldn 't take my eyes off this wonderful job!
Thanks!
Great control on those vertical chisel cuts refining those saddles, nicely done
Thanks Tony!
Saddle!! Thanks for the term. I was calling it mortise, slot, all of the stupid names possible :))
Amazing precision. And the music is perfect choice!
Thank you!
Your woodworking skill is precise, detailed and elaborate and I wait for the next step of this desk.
Thanks! Will be available in the next weeks!
@@AdrianPreda You're welcome. Take care.
Rigueur et minutie donnent des assemblages très précis. Magnifique travail et très bien filmé. Bravo et merci
Merci beaucoup!
Beautiful work, Adrian! Really nicely done! 😃
Thanks for watching too!
Oh I love this series.
I love see your way of working in wood. Thank you for sharing one more beatifull project.
Can't wait to see it finished! Thank you Adrian.
An absolute joy.
Thanks!
Precise and beautiful craftsmanship!
Thank you!
Great vid! Though I loved your previous videos, I much prefer when it.s more detailed like this one. Keep up like this!
Can’t wait to watch the next one.
Thank you! This one being more complex I can squeeze out some stages from it🙂
I'm happy that you are posting videos again 👌🏻
It's more about teaching the technique and less about the project.. I really like your approach.
Regards from Karachi.
💐
Thanks! The project all together will be at the end, all condensed into a 8-10 min video. I've exploit this one into several longer vids cause it was a more longer build. Glad you find it useful!
You never disappoint, thank you for another wonderful video.
Thank for watching too!
Excellent video, I will see the rest of the process
Thank you! Next weeks!
Finest woodworker on CZcams. Thanks for sharing with us. Great job.
Thnaks! 🙂
Great build as always!
Thanks for watching too!
your videos are SO good!
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Nice nice
Thanks!
this is beautiful
Thank you!
@@AdrianPreda Thank you for great content!
Don't forget your coffee/tea before chillin' into this video guys. ☕️😌
Very enjoyable video! Thank you.
Thank you!
hell yea another video
😀
Did you make that router yourself? Looks really good, would be interested to see you you did it.
Just saw you've done that video 🤭
Beautiful joint! Are the dowels only on the inside face, I'm assuming?
Great video, can't wait for the next one
Thanks! Indeed, they will be hidden. I had an idea to make them outside, with square plugs, pyramids, like I did on other projects, but didnt seem to fit the design
Beautiful :)
Thanks!
How do you determine the angle at the joint as a new learner? If I am making table leg Based on the height of table and angle I don't want the leg should stay under table top only.
I draw it in CAD first, 2D and 3D, try various angles and dimensions until it looks nice basically, proportioned, balanced
Adrian wann kommt dein Video wie du deine Hobeleisen und Stechbeitel schärfst?
After the desk is finished :)
Great work, as always. Would you mind explaining in which situations you use your Japanese planes and in which situations you use your western planes?
Thanks! Most times when dealing with tearout, jp planes can handle better, while low angle planes dont. Or when delicate pieces like boxes
@@AdrianPreda Cool, thanks for the info.
Только за музон уже лайк!!!!
прям столярная эротика)
👍
Looking good, Adrian! Can't wait for the next one. What country are you in?
Thanks Nik! Should be next week if agw. Romania, lockdown here too😕
I drive the Transit for my county, so no lockdown for me. Wife is scared to death I'm going to catch something and die on her. Working in a mask and nitrile gloves isn't fun.
Nice video, Adrian.
Nice job done.
Did you first have western chisels for the "rough" and for the "fine" did you use Japanese chisels?
Smile I also have such a "table broom". :-)
Looking forward to the continuation.
Take care and stay healthy!
Thank you!
Indeed, the jp ones are 4x expensive😀
Yeap, too cute that little broom!
Hello Adrian,
Thanks for the answer.
Nagut I had a 10 piece long ago. Set "for beginners" bought from Dictum, who had bought just under € 200.
But I noticed that you can work better with them than with the western ones and that if you treat them incorrectly, they can break off on the cutting edge. :-D :-D
Greetings from Germany.
Those mine are 40-45 euro each, 5 pieces, so same 200 :)) Yes, I feel more comfortable using them, better grip and approach of the marking line. The hard steel part being more brittle is very easy to brake them if not careful
That's right with the steel.
Smile, I can't afford the expensive ones for health reasons. :-D :-D :-D
Hello Adrian. Did you make the mallet shown at 18:50. I do not see it on your tool list. Nice build series. Thanks.
Thanks! No, it's bought, very long time ago and can not find the link from where it is. I will update the list if I will found it
Thanks. I just thought the proportions of the mallet were very appealing. It’s a good looking mallet.
I know. That a chunk of log can work just as well; But, there is nothing wrong with it being a good looking chunk of log.
I think I found it, look for Kiduchi
At mine, the handle is a bit trimmed off by me. I believe I did it so it can fit in my old tool cabinet.
Thanks.
Adrian, I always waffle between hand planing project parts before doing joinery (risking that they might get dinged up from being worked on over the course of the project), and just sanding the whole project after glue up (where getting into tight corners is difficult). Can you elaborate on your approach here?
Yes, I wanted to explain more in the video but didn't knew how to embed that :))
First, the legs, the tenons. I only planed the short faces, those that get inside the mortise or that slot how it's called on a bridle joint. I feel more comfortable dealing with the final width of the piece when taking measurements when marking. And I only planed the ends, not the entire faces of the piece. Also here is a special case, the legs will be tapered, so finish will be required on the remaining unplaned places.
Second, that upper connecting piece. There is another situation(s). (1) The legs will be proud on the outer sides, can be seen when I assemble them in the video. After glue up it will be difficult to sand, planing impossible. So I've planed to remove all the marks (there are planer marks, more deep than saw ones), and before I assemble and glue it I will just hit some 360 sandpaper to smooth it. (2) When dealing with pieces with holes/slots on the surface like this I sometimes brake the edges of those when planing and/or sanding, or even round a little the edges, so to avoid that I plane almost to finish those respective faces.
Indeed I all cases there is a risk to make some dents with chips while clamping and chiseling on the bench, but I take more care with these .
To resume, I only planed the faces of the parts that makes more trouble afterwards, not the entire piece.
👍
👍🇹🇷🇰🇿
Thank you!