I have changed my blower motor resistor and connector 3 times now. This will be the 4th time now and this time im replacing the blower motor as well. I never thought about it before but thats what is causing the problem. Pulling to much power and melting the connector! Time for a new blower motor!
Here's an important tip regarding all fuses. My directional signal stopped working and at another time my blower failed. I pulled the fuse in the panel at the driver's end of the dash, checked the fuse for being blown and corrosion, scrapped the blades with my thumb nail and saw a white substance appear. I whipped them off on a course rage and reinstalled it and I haven't had a problem since. Moisture in some form must get in.
2012 Tahoe, remove 2-right side screws and pull black plastic cover plate down, 15:40 min. There's a 1/2" wide locking tab located at the bump stop pillar. Pull that tab down and twist blower (ccw looking up)
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I'm 6' 7" so it's always an adventure getting under the dash. The blinker relay on the 2000 expedition was easier. Still sore though two days later!
Never know what you can find in those blower motors! Found a live mouse and a dead mouse at the same time. Live one scared the crap out of me. Wasn't expecting it. And this was a daily driver vehicle. Gotta love winter. Rodents will find anywhere warm to hide out!
I had a mouse fall into one on my way to work. I heard him drop into it and it threw it out of balance so I had to turn it down. It was winter too. He didn’t make it.
Mine. The blower moter would squall a bit, then cut out for a second. It did that multiple times, and then it finally just quit all together. So I'm positive it is the motor.
Gm suks. 05 yukon i had to cut a block of wood to prop it up against the seat against and against the plug. It works most the time. But my door lock has a short causing a parasite drawer and I had to unplug the battery now in the winter each night. Caused my rear heat to fail. The blower only blows cold air. I have tried to reset videos that I saw with no luck The actuator reset videos worked really.
This model is sometimes equipped with a cabin air filter, it may be worth changing, as it would make me blower motor work harder than it really needs to.
Makes sense, thank you for the tip. Mine doesn’t happen to have the cabin filter. I didn’t realize some of them came with a cabin filter though. Learn something new everyday.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic if they didnt have one, its super easy to add one. The stock location is just to the left of where you were working. You cut the plastic cover out, and stick a filter in. Dunno why some did and some didnt have the filter, they all used the same hvac box for the full sized suvs from 2001 until 2006.
My Tahoe stopped running all air in car vents. Making this weird click sound or almost reminds me of a turn blinker but more subtle does 2 clicks then pauses for 2 seconds and repeats when ac is turned on..
If you are asking can you bypass the resistor and use a toggle switch instead? You can, I would use the power wire to the resistor, not one of the feeds from the hvac module for the different speeds. You also will only have high for the blower. Just hook the ground from the resistor to the ground on the blower. I don’t have a diagram but the ground may just go directly through the resistor to the blower so you might not need to bypass that wire, I’m not sure on that.
Just did this job for the second time. 1st time I only swapped the resistor itself, used the factory harness that eventually melted rendering the new resistor useless. Subsequently I replaced the new resistor under warranty then spliced and soldered the new harness as close to factory as possible. Flawless victory🦦✅ good luck out there!
Did you do any of the power checks I showed? I did the checks to verify everything before the blower motor resistor was working. There could be a bad connection that’s not carrying enough power that shows the correct voltage but will drop when loaded.
You should be able to do the same test with the test light. It may even be better because you can put a small load on the circuit that the meter won’t do. I put the clamp end on a pick or piece of mechanics wire if I want to use it like a probe. I would do the checks just to verify you didn’t get any faulty parts.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I got power, and each fan speed lit, and the ground lit. Forgive me I’m really slow with electricity for some reason. I read about a gm recal on the resister and the plug on select models that says something about overloading which causes the leads to burn which did occur so I replaced the plug, resister, and blower, but the recall says you have to have the gm updated parts although I’m past the 10 year 100k mark so unless you know I don’t have to get those parts and have the patience to continue walking me through a alternative repair, im down to keep trying. Other wise I will just have to go to gm in the morning and get the recall parts. For being such a great truck, that runs like it’s less then 5 years old with 330k miles I must say the electrical (ac/heat) is a pain ha.
I don’t think you need their updated parts. Personally I try and get oem parts because usually they are a better quality, but I used aftermarket on this vehicle and it’s been fine since. I still have the vehicle. I find you can sometimes get oem parts on eBay cheaper if you have the part numbers and search them. If you have power to the resister on the settings do you have power at the blower motor plug? With the selector on high. I say high because it should be the easiest to see with a test light and should run the motor. If you have a headlight bulb you can use as a test light it will load the circuit more and give a better test. If you don’t have a head light bulb you can back probe the ground and main power wires in the 7 pin plug that goes into the resistor with the motor plugged and on high to see if you are loosing power or ground. First I would see if you have power at the blower motor plug? I don’t know if you have some clip leads you could put power to the blower motor to make sure it works?
2 years later and you just helped me big time TYSM!!!!!!
No problem. Thank you for watching.
I have changed my blower motor resistor and connector 3 times now. This will be the 4th time now and this time im replacing the blower motor as well. I never thought about it before but thats what is causing the problem. Pulling to much power and melting the connector! Time for a new blower motor!
Here's an important tip regarding all fuses. My directional signal stopped working and at another time my blower failed. I pulled the fuse in the panel at the driver's end of the dash, checked the fuse for being blown and corrosion, scrapped the blades with my thumb nail and saw a white substance appear. I whipped them off on a course rage and reinstalled it and I haven't had a problem since. Moisture in some form must get in.
2012 Tahoe, remove 2-right side screws and pull black plastic cover plate down,
15:40 min. There's a 1/2" wide locking tab located at the bump stop pillar. Pull that tab down and twist blower (ccw looking up)
Nice job filming! I changed a blower motor resistor in daughters camry. Still recovering and I didn't try to film it!
You need to be like a transformer so you can just bend around the seat. Mechanic in disguise!
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I'm 6' 7" so it's always an adventure getting under the dash. The blinker relay on the 2000 expedition was easier. Still sore though two days later!
Never know what you can find in those blower motors! Found a live mouse and a dead mouse at the same time. Live one scared the crap out of me. Wasn't expecting it. And this was a daily driver vehicle. Gotta love winter. Rodents will find anywhere warm to hide out!
I had a mouse fall into one on my way to work. I heard him drop into it and it threw it out of balance so I had to turn it down. It was winter too. He didn’t make it.
Mine. The blower moter would squall a bit, then cut out for a second. It did that multiple times, and then it finally just quit all together. So I'm positive it is the motor.
There is a pretty good chance you are right. I would think the same thing.
Gm suks. 05 yukon i had to cut a block of wood to prop it up against the seat against and against the plug. It works most the time.
But my door lock has a short causing a parasite drawer and I had to unplug the battery now in the winter each night. Caused my rear heat to fail. The blower only blows cold air. I have tried to reset videos that I saw with no luck
The actuator reset videos worked really.
This model is sometimes equipped with a cabin air filter, it may be worth changing, as it would make me blower motor work harder than it really needs to.
Makes sense, thank you for the tip. Mine doesn’t happen to have the cabin filter. I didn’t realize some of them came with a cabin filter though. Learn something new everyday.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic if they didnt have one, its super easy to add one. The stock location is just to the left of where you were working. You cut the plastic cover out, and stick a filter in. Dunno why some did and some didnt have the filter, they all used the same hvac box for the full sized suvs from 2001 until 2006.
Nice job.
Good practice if you are training to be a contortionist. Well done Sir
Thank you. I don’t like under dash stuff but this one wasn’t too bad. I was able to kneel on the ground and get to the stuff ok.
nice video thank you
No problem. Thank you for watching.
Thx
My Tahoe stopped running all air in car vents. Making this weird click sound or almost reminds me of a turn blinker but more subtle does 2 clicks then pauses for 2 seconds and repeats when ac is turned on..
Did you ever figure it out? Mine is doing the same.
Sounds like the actuator need replacing
can i put a toggle switch in place of the resistor plug
If you are asking can you bypass the resistor and use a toggle switch instead? You can, I would use the power wire to the resistor, not one of the feeds from the hvac module for the different speeds. You also will only have high for the blower. Just hook the ground from the resistor to the ground on the blower. I don’t have a diagram but the ground may just go directly through the resistor to the blower so you might not need to bypass that wire, I’m not sure on that.
Why didn't you just change the entire plug?
I could have, but it wasn’t necessary and I didn’t want a big bunch of butt connectors in the wire
Just did this job for the second time. 1st time I only swapped the resistor itself, used the factory harness that eventually melted rendering the new resistor useless. Subsequently I replaced the new resistor under warranty then spliced and soldered the new harness as close to factory as possible. Flawless victory🦦✅ good luck out there!
Where is the resistor located?
I did all this and change the plug, resister and blower an still no power. I read about a gm recall somewhere
Did you do any of the power checks I showed? I did the checks to verify everything before the blower motor resistor was working. There could be a bad connection that’s not carrying enough power that shows the correct voltage but will drop when loaded.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic no I only had a test light
You should be able to do the same test with the test light. It may even be better because you can put a small load on the circuit that the meter won’t do. I put the clamp end on a pick or piece of mechanics wire if I want to use it like a probe. I would do the checks just to verify you didn’t get any faulty parts.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I got power, and each fan speed lit, and the ground lit. Forgive me I’m really slow with electricity for some reason.
I read about a gm recal on the resister and the plug on select models that says something about overloading which causes the leads to burn which did occur so I replaced the plug, resister, and blower, but the recall says you have to have the gm updated parts although I’m past the 10 year 100k mark so unless you know I don’t have to get those parts and have the patience to continue walking me through a alternative repair, im down to keep trying.
Other wise I will just have to go to gm in the morning and get the recall parts.
For being such a great truck, that runs like it’s less then 5 years old with 330k miles I must say the electrical (ac/heat) is a pain ha.
I don’t think you need their updated parts. Personally I try and get oem parts because usually they are a better quality, but I used aftermarket on this vehicle and it’s been fine since. I still have the vehicle. I find you can sometimes get oem parts on eBay cheaper if you have the part numbers and search them. If you have power to the resister on the settings do you have power at the blower motor plug? With the selector on high. I say high because it should be the easiest to see with a test light and should run the motor. If you have a headlight bulb you can use as a test light it will load the circuit more and give a better test. If you don’t have a head light bulb you can back probe the ground and main power wires in the 7 pin plug that goes into the resistor with the motor plugged and on high to see if you are loosing power or ground. First I would see if you have power at the blower motor plug? I don’t know if you have some clip leads you could put power to the blower motor to make sure it works?
my 2005 Tahoe has 30 amp fuse. just saying.
Supposed to be 40a