Chrysler Pentastar 3.6L Tear Down: Part 3
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
- This is part 3 of my Pentastar 3.6L tear down series. In this video I take you along as I take apart a Chrysler Pentastar 3.6L while discussing the various parts of the engine and explain how they work. In this particular video I get into the lower end of the engine. I remove the oil pump and dissect it while explaining how it works. I then continue to take the short block apart further by removing the windage tray, pistons and connecting rods while explaining how they work. I also give a brief explanation of how rotational force is created by the engine and how this is translated to the drive wheels of the vehicle.
Note: This video only provides a high level over view of the various parts of this engine. It is superficial in nature and is only intended to give the viewer an idea of how this engine is put together and how it works. No detailed specifications are given.
Here are a few links that may be helpful in helping you understand better how this engine and some components of the engine work...
Here is a link explaining how a vane type oil pump works
• How it Works: Vane Pump
A simple google search of "variable displacement vane pump" will populate many more helpful videos and links to liturature.
Here is a link explaining in more detail the "windage tray"
www.cantonracingproducts.com/...
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Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses, protective gloves and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Verify everything with your own research. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I recently bought a new Jeep Rubicon and I’m trying to learn everything about my 3.6L. Seems like a great engine! Thank you!
Very clear explanation on how the Pentastar 3.6 works! Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very educational.
This was a great overview series on this engine.
I have a supercharger on my Pentastar RAM 1500 and looking at building another engine in anticipation of my OEM having a shorter life. No major surprises in there.
Really appreciate getting to see what I am in for.
I consider this series one of the most beautiful videos that we knew what is pentastar engine 3.6
Thank you for your comment!
What an incredibly well designed machine!
I'd have to agree with you.
Great video. I have this in our Dodge Grand Caravan and not being a Dodge guy, I appreciate seeing this kind of video to help me understand the engine. Thanks!
Awesome
Love these videos thank you for sharing your knowledge
I love the polite southern accent. "don't beat the mess out of it", would have been phrased differently in the Northern USA and Canada :)
Good job. Very interesting.
Great vid! Thanks 😊
Very nice videos and explanations, about taking the engine apart in a rough way well I am working on mine I want to re use but mine is hydro locked, I had to pull the engine with transmission out of the bay, now got the engine on its hoist by 2 cables, kind of "floating", there is no way to use an engine stand because the torque converter is attached to the engine because the crankshaft would not spin hence could not unbolt it when in the bay; this is by far one of the most difficult tasks i have done as I am not a mechanic, I had to use impact on the bolts for the oil tray that sits between the oil pan and crankshaft, the thing is I have zero leverage to use a breaker bar, would need someone holding the engine from moving while un-torquing and i only have my daughter who was the one who caused the damage by the way, so following the un bolt sequence as it should be when the engine is in a stand is very difficult, as much as I do not want to damage it or warp it I do not see other way; after it is apart the block will be inspected at machine shop and cleaned and rectified if needed. Same with the heads. for assembly I will use new bolts, even thinking getting new bolts for that lower tray as well, it was pretty tight and one bolt was rounded; at the time of this writing I have yet to un bolt the heads and the end caps for the connecting rods; I still can not see the extent of the damage or why the crank cant spin; there are no metal shaving or pieces found in the oil pan only some water as engine took water in from driving it or trying to drive it though a low flooded street as she was caught up on it. I do not wish to use a used engine and I thought about buying the long block as nobody really sells just the short block on these but Fraser Engines and 3 other places that are "popular" selling them engines remanufactured they have horrible customers reviews with horrific stories about wrong engine sent and engines which would not start after installed and fights for returns and a whole fricking nightmare which is why I committed to try and do it all on my own; may cost me a little more but it is the only way I have to know when I turn the key the engine will start; no my first rodeo, I already remanufactured one for another car, a 4 cylinder 2004 Toyota corolla and also have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma waiting in turn to be overhauled, initially we were saving to buy a long block from Fraser but I am not going to pay 5k+ to have issues and the few times I called them they were horrible cutting me off, hanging the phone and not interested unless I was going to just buy; good luck with that attitude! the prices of this type of repair no matter where you go makes us turn into mechanics to get it done; thankfully we got you tubers like you and some other resources for the one willing to undertake the task and that is very helpful.
oil pump works like an air motor on an impact wrench. it just pumps oil in stead of create rotation.
Trying to carb this model but worried about the Oil pump can I just remove that and mechanize the flow some way?
Appreciate your videos on the Pentastar. As an owner of one of these, I am learning lots about this engine, and your videos are very informative. Where are you located?
Do you think it's safe to supercharge at 138k miles?
Nothing but headaches this engine it has been for me
WHAT KINDS OF PROBLEMS ARE YOU HAVING AT WHAT MILEAGE AND IN WHICH VEHICLE? DID YOU BUY YOUR VEHICLE NEW OR USED?🤔
If you still have the head, ill pay to have it shipped to me and for your time. I need something to experiment on so i don't have to take my engine apart.
Just like every car or engine, there are good eggs and there are bad eggs. Car A rolls off the assembly line providing new owner with years/miles of trouble free driving and car B is a P.O.S. providing the new owner with as much misery as they can stand until they pass it on!
How would one knows if the oil pump, the water/coolant pump, cam phaser...etc. are working optimally. They could be working ok but not optimally for many reasons. I guess best to exercise and eat healthy...I mean use good good fluids, gas and oil and drive easy.
So what killed this engine? I didn't see any obvious failures. Just rust from sitting outside?
Check out part 2. Went over the cam follower failure.
Excuse me. Actually this video is what I meant. czcams.com/video/248MoyxigKQ/video.html
This engine sucks
Just bad luck then... I have a 2011 Grand Cherokee with the first gen 3.6L Pentastar, Jan 10, '22 it currently has 131K and over 4520+ hours on it and this engine is still running strong... driven 200 miles a week to commute to work, highway and city...No complaints here...
What issues have you had?
I’ve encountered tons of these engines over the past 10 years. They’ve been phenomenal in my experience. Mine at home is at 275,000 miles at the moment. I’m hoping I’ll hit 400,000 with no issues.
@@mcspartan5822 head gaskets oil coolers radiators rockers lifters camshafts, camshaft position sensor cables that are faulty should I go on?
@@johndoe5162 i've had engine oil cooler bad, radiator bad, 3 thermostats and still the ongoing camshaft position sensor. Sensor has been change twice and the wiring redone twice (by dealer.) oil galley bolts checked. Still get the camshaft position sensor error when under a steady load (70mph or so on the interstate). Now the dealer wants to replace the passenger side head. They have not given a reason on why they want to replace the head $3k+. Of course this is on the head that doesn't have the 150k mile warranty on it. all of this at 100k miles.
@@airgun1974 sorry to say this, but highly disappointed by jeep I'm at the point of just scrapping the thing and forgetting about all these headaches.