You're using the wrong table saw blade for joinery!
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
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Flat bottom kerfs, you make the table saw go round!
Thank James!
Great presentation. it is so nice to hear someone go through an entire video without saying, "umm" after every other word.
I fully agree, however I didn't think it possible to say 'Flat Kerf Joinery Blade' so many times in one sitting.
@@RussWhite I think it may be, if that is the subject of ones video.. ;)
"Flat bottomed kerf, they make this rockin' world go round!"
I'm never not going to hear this now
Haha!! Beat me to it!
I used your link to Ridge Carbide after canceling my Amana 10” blade order. Appreciate the 10% discount.
They are delayed a few weeks maybe due to Covid- but I am happy to wait for such a well respected and reviewed American company.
Best to you.
Every time I watch one of your videos, I come away with lots of clear information. Many thanks.
Glad to hear that!
Good one. I've struggled with this in rabbets and dadoes for 50 years. It's funny what simple stuff you can miss for a whole lifetime.
Oo
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos for those of us who have day jobs and woodwork in our spare time for hobby/recreation/pride in craftsmanship in what goes in our homes. Much appreciated.
I have thought about this but never had it explained to me so well.
Been using Ridge Carbide blades for about 10 years now. Great blades and I send them all my blades (any brand) for sharpening.
Thank you for helping me to see how a flat bottom blade is a good investment for cutting joints on the table saw! Very clear and informative feed!
Over 50 years, always used separate ripping and cross cut blades. That's what I learned in after school woodworking club.
Well done, James. You learned me something I didn't have in my noggin. Thanky!
I'm a beginner to Woodworking I always watching Your Video Thanks & Best Wishes to you.
Very good video for those that don't have the same understanding or knowledge, thank you for sharing you wisdom.
Searched for box joint blades and this popped up first! So glad it did. Great info and presentation...thanks for sharing.
Great info..here is some geek info ... General rule for great cut is that at least three teeth are in contact with cut product... There is also a whole witch hunt about what angle (rake) the carbide tooth is set (positive or negative angle) ... and last is the harmonics relieve cuts (funny looking cracks) on the plate of blade... they really help on larger blades/thinner kerf set up...
After looking at this video over and over, I lashed out and bought the General purpose TS2000 40 T, a plywood/MDF 80T and a joinery flat kerf 40 T blade to fit my Jet 10" table saw. All these from Ridge Carbide that were speedy in order processing and delivery. I have to say the first thing was the noticeable reduction in noise. It's as to how Stumpy said, the difference is chalk and cheese. As for my cuts? I now have clean, no fiber breakage, professionally-looking cuts. Ridge Carbide advertises sharpening services on all their blades and judging by the more than ample carbide on the teeth I know these blades will last a very long time. Now to make some special storage for my blades pride of place in my shop. Thanks Stumpy!
John Marshall
Ridge Carbide.....best blades out there.
I own 2 craftsman 113 table saws I was able to get them both for under $100 dollars and both came a cmt general purpose blades. Since buying them I've set 1 up with a crosscutting blade and the other with a glue line ripping blade. This keeps me from having to change blades as often.
Who would know there is so much to learn about just a blade, very educational and well balanced, thank you
I have a 3 1/2 horse table saw and use both thin and regular kerf blades. Never knew there was an argument over them. I just use what works for me. Blade quality will make or break any cutting tool no matter how high end it is. Side note: I have found that Easy-Off is the absolute best way to clean saw blades. It may take the paint off of some blades but dang, you will think it is a new blade when you get the pitch and stuff off of them.
Thank you for the thorough, concise, quality content you and your team produce.
Thank you very much for this video. I recently built a wooden planter box with joinery on each of the corners and I noticed that the cuts weren't as smooth as I expected with cutting each rebate. I thought it was because I have a cheaper table saw which won't be as accurate as expensive units (I'm DIY, not pro). I will investigate getting a flat kerf blade because my next project is building a greenhouse which will also have joinery in each corner.
Thanks for sharing your analysis and recommendations. You are very technical but you do not talk over my head, you explain very thoroughly. Thanks for the great info :)
I took one of my existing blades to my local
saw shop and asked them to custom grind it into a flat bottom blade. I chose a blade with a wide kerf for the conversion. No problem, cost me about $30.00.
Infinity makes a really nice 1/4" flat top 8" joinery blade that you might want to check out as well. I just have a lowly little jobsite saw (for now) that wont take a dado stack, but the Infinity fits the arbor fine and has given me very satisfactory results thus far. The body of the blade is very thick so it the blade doesn't seem to vibrate on my cheap saw as much as the 1/8" or thinner kerf blades do.
Just ordered the ridge carbide blade for some upcoming projects and used the code. Thanks!!
I've seen probably 50 videos on CZcams about table saw joinery. Not once did anyone mention a flat kerf blade was essential to ACTUALLY accomplish the task. Thanks
Appreciate the detailed explanation, had no idea about the different types of blades until watching this. I already ordered them for myself and I may be blind, but I did not see the option on ridge carbides website during checkout to use the discount code. Oh well.
I have a DImar 24 tooth flat top rip blade and use it often for grooving instead of bothering with the dado stack. One thing not mentioned in the video however is that those "bat ears" are there for a reason. They are to reduce tearout, especially on cross grain cuts. Most dado blades have angled outer blades for this reason. Using a flat grind on crosscuts will produce more tearout along the cut line and may not produce acceptable results compared to a dado blade or any other ATB design.
Hi James!
You learned me something I didn’t think og in this video. At this time I start lokking for a new saw blade for doing finger joints🔨🤘🏼
Good video James! I've been cutting box joints with Matthias Wandel's box joint jig, and use the Freud 24 tooth Flat-Top Rip blade for nearly all my cuts. Thank you.
My cmt chrome blades came in and wow! Have all three. Butter smooth, huge sound and vibration reduction.
Thanks for the tips. I didn’t know the differences between the saw blades.
I love that Ridge Carbide now features your video on their product page. Awesome!
Good advice. In my opinion, Ridge Carbide blades are the best on the market. Period. Their customer service and resharpening service is EXCELLENT.
Could not agree more; been using RC blades for 3-4 years...love them. And agree regarding the sharpening service.
What is the price of resharpening?
$35
Here's link to their price list; all depends on number of teeth. ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening-service/
When I finally move from my apartment into a house with a garage, then get around to buying a table saw, I will remember this video. Thanks.
Have you started woodworking ? 😊
I have a rip blade, a dado set, and a plywood/melamine blade. I use my dado set regularly. I have been looking into FTG blades. This is great information. Thank you.
Based strictly off this video I am counting on the Ridge Carbide blade being equally as good as the Forrest 40 tooth #1 grind blade, don't let me down James.
I bought this to be a workshop warming gift for my friend who will be getting a SawStop PCS when he moves into his new home, it will be his first "real" table saw as well as his first dedicated workshop.
On top of the joinery aspects, the Forrest is easily the best general use table saw blade I have ever used.
I hope the Ridge Carbide blade gives Louie as much satisfaction as the Forrest has given to me.
BTW the discount code still works, thanks.
Excellent video. I wish I could have seen this before I bought the Amanda flat tooth blade but hopefully it will give me good service. You have a great channel and pack more information in a short video than most. Thanks.
Hi James, always enjoy your videos. I am making some built-in cabinets for our family room. I saw this video a few weeks back and when I used my dado stack to cut the stub tenons for the cabinet doors, I noticed that I was getting some tearout on the test pieces. I had already bought a rip blade for this project ( I always try to work a new tool purchase into a project when I can! ! ) so I thought I'd give it a try. I have a 26-tooth Freud Diablo rip blade. I'm not sure that's the one you used in the video, but it was the one I had. I also made a small sled to make sure all the cuts were absolutely square.
The shoulder cuts were absolutely clean, as you stated in the video. What I did find was that no matter how many passes I made, there were always some ridges left on the stub tennon, and sometimes they made the joint too tight. I had to go back over several times to make sure I got the proper fit. A little more work, but in the end I got the results I wanted.
Any additional tips how I can make this work a little better next time?
Best regards,
Tony
The blade you are using does not have a proper flat grind on the teeth. It's all explained in the video.
I learned more about saw blades in 7 minutes that I thought was possbile. Thank you James.
Sold me on the ridge carbide TS2000! Stoked to get it!!!
Thanks!
:)
Was looking around for a flat tooth blade to start doing some kumiko work and found this. I have a Ridge Carbide combo blade and I'm pretty happy with it. Had it sharpened once by them after about two years and they did a good job. Nice to know there are other folks out there who are happy with them as well. BTW - Great video, too. Clear, concise, and very informational. Keep up the good work and thanks.
Does the Ridge Carbide combination blade produce a flat bottom or are there ‘bat ears’? In one part of their description it says it produces a ‘nearly flat’ cut, then you scroll down and it says it produces a totally flat cut, making it your all around blade for finger joints and dado cuts. Hoping for the latter!
@@ButchB81 Sadly, it's not a flat top grind but the ATB is low enough that you could probably get it custom ground . According to my sharpening guy, the draw back is the amount of carbide left on the tip is very small so re-sharpening could be an issue.
I took one of my Axminster Excaliber 80 tooth combi blades to my local saw sharpener and had him grind it flat top for me. He charged me a £2 surcharge for the extra grinding tool wear on top of the normal sharpening fee but said I'd only pay the surcharge fee once. So my decent quality flat top blade came in at £28. Very happy with the results. I chose to have an 80 tooth ground flat because I may want to use it in the mitre saw and it will be less bumpy to use than a blade with fewer teeth.
I used a dado set blade for a while, but it cut more like 3/32", then started using the same Freud blade as you have on this video. I've been putting off buying the Ridge Carbide blade since I saw it about a year ago.......I'm buying it now. Thanks for the discount code.
Ahh! Every time I watch one of your videos I feel the overwhelming urge to go buy more tools to produce the most efficient benches, coffee tables, and keepsake boxes possible!!! How did they produce anything out of wood pre 1992??
Great as always! Thank you
There is a blade sharpening company in or near Fox Lake IL (NW of Chicago) that sharpens a lot of blades in the area. They sharpened several of my blades and their grinding wheel is rough and leaves micro scratches in the carbide teeth which makes for scratches in the cut wood in rip or cross cut situations. No matter how much fritsing you do with the rip fence on your saw; you still get
micro lines in the cut.
Great advice, thanks. A while back I replaced my saw blade with fine cut blade that gives excellent smooth crisp cuts in sheet goods and laminates and near perfect cross-cuts but makes bat-ears. This is one of those "why didn't I think to put the rip blade back on and save myself lots of cleanup" moments, I have a perfectly good rip blade gathering dust. (applies palm to face)
Bat-ears??
Never heard of or seen a joinery blade for the table-saw. Love learning something new. It is a bit pricey, but seem like it would be worth the investment for someone who needs such a specific blade. I am budget restricted, so I guess I'll just have to cut short and get the chisels out. Thanks for showing something new to me though.
Now I know why my box joints are not as tight as I'd like them. I have the Freud flat kerf, and indeed is a little wide. I'll solve that problem with the Ridge Carbide. Thanks!
You should check out the Forrest Woodworker II special flat grind. Cleanest box joints I’ve ever cut.
I have no doubt they are. Forrest makes Top of the line blades. However, I would put up the Ridge Carbide next to any Forrest blade, any time. Same quality, less cost. If you do some googling, you'll see I'm not alone in that opinion.
The discount code still works! Thanks!
Sound , clear advice. Thank you
Thanks for explaining all those details. Just ordered the Ridge Carbide blade, with your discount.
Somewhere deep in the recesses of my brain I knew a flat kerf would make better dado cuts; thank you for slapping me in the face and making it obvious. I learn so much from this channel!
Finding that the more narrow kerf blades that are ATB+R grind and 15 degree ATB angle (50 T) not only do a nice rip but leave a flat cut . Goes through wood like butter with no drag or burn .
Point on about flat cut but if making multiple cut to widen a dado etc. the overlap smooths out the cut (ATB-R) up to the last pass (leaves one tiny notch)
Smaller kerf width lets more teeth move as fast , as wider kerf with less , by removing less material with less sawdust to move out .
Would love to see a good comparison of where/when to use router over table saw for this kind of thing.
I've been looking for this information for some time. I went ahead and ordered a 10" TS2000 even though s&h brought the total to over $150. Thanks for the info and discount code!
I did also, but having it shipped to Canada is a whole different shock. What with the exchange rate takes it to $165.00Cad then the WTF moment when UPS wants $57 for duty upon delivery. Sure hope the wife isn't here when they arrive, and the blade is a super performer.
My Dado set uses 40 tooth blades. It leaves quite a good finish on the kerf.
Before I got my dado stack I used a 7 1/4 ripping blade for a circular saw, mostly for splines on mitred boxes and frames. I wouldn't run out and buy one, but it works great if you happen to have one.
Those work well if you make sure to get one with only rip teeth. The biggest problem is the really thin kerf isn't suited to dados and other joinery that has to be nibbled out one cut at a time. But they are great for splines, as you said.
Well done James! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
The ridge blade is so much more worth it. I’ve been using them for 20 years I grew up right next to them in jersey. But now I live in northern Canada so I started to buy FStool and Royce.
What is your recommendation for avoiding "tear out" when using power tools for wood working? Could you make your start cut from the wrong end for say half the depth of your cutting tool, be it a saw or router bit, and then proceed for the heavy work from the correct end? I believe "tear out" is the most common annoyance of amateur home wood workers because it can absolutely ruin days of crafting.
Learned something valuable. Thanks Stumpy.
Based on this video I purchased the Amana 24T Ripping blade hoping for glue-up ready results. It does an OK job, but my five year old 50T Diablo framing blade produces better results. I will still be able to use the Amana for cuts the require a flat kerf such as dados, but I am still searching for a good glue up quality blade. BTW, Amana does not claim to be 0.125. It is clearly labeled and marketed as 0.142 inches.
I use the Forrest #1 grind combo for everything. No regrets.
thank you for your videos
Extremely informative video James, this weekend woodworking warrior all but forgot about flat kerf table saw joinery blades!
Terrific overview on these blades. Thanks!
Kempston makes a decent blade for just over 30 bucks that has the flat top grind. Another option if you are on a budget.
I own the same Kempston. Would also suggest it to anyone looking for a flat-top blade without spending a lot. Thing works great and I've taken to leaving it in my table saw over switching out for my Diablo ATB blade.
Thank you for suggesting this blade, I had never heard of it. Great reviews on Amazon, I ordered one straight away! Thanks again!
Thank you! This was a great video, but I'm pretty much never going to buy a blade that's $160.
Which blade model is it?
Thanks for the suggestion on the blade. Ordered one from Amazon, works great!
Excellent clear information, very well presented, you have a new subscriber.
Hey James, thanks, very helpful. However, the link you provided for the Ridge Carbide blade points to their ATRB blade instead of their flat ground box/finger joint blade. Quick edit required. Otherwise, great stuff.
Great video. Very informative.
Thanks.
I just buy Forrest blades.
They've been with me for years and I've never been let down.
Plus, made right here in America.
Forrest is worth the investment, same with Whiteside.
Edit: typically, I use a atb+r for joinery.
I find that small crease left creates a glue filet, which makes for a much stronger joint once things dry.
Ridge Carbide are every bit as good as Forrest for about 30% less.
Thank you very much for this video! I have been looking for a FTG blade for awhile and wasn't sure which one to get.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Good information.
"Flat bottom kerfs you make the rock'n world go round" Everybody now! "Oh, I'm gonna take you home tonight..."
Excellent video. Learned a lot. Thanks.
Good. Explanation. Of blades.! Another. Useful. Video. From. Stumpy thnx
For me - this was one of your better video's! Thanks James!!
I have the DeWalt 8-1/4" contractor's saw, and it seems like they don't make these flat kerf blades in this size.
Thank you.
excellent presentation
Thanks for your recommendations.
thx you, i am new to wood working and i would of never thought of this.
Thank you for the knowledge... it really is empowering.
Good video. You forgot to mention that Ridge carbide will sharpen your Ridge carbide blade for free.
Thank you. I was needing to know this about which blade to upgrade to from my multi purpose blade that came with my job site saw. I think the Freud is just within my budget. Thanks again.
Remember, these blades are just for joinery. It is not for your every day cuts that go through the work piece. You want a combination blade for that. Look for my answer to Rayan Slim's comment on this video for my suggestions for combo blades.
Stumpy Nubs thanks stumpy. I have the same bore on my job site and mitre saw. I would just use this blade for dados, rabits, laps etc. I have a combo blade fitted to the mitre saw so would just swap them about as and when required.
It would be a good idea to get a proper crosscut blade for your miter saw, since those only make miter cuts. You'll be amazed the difference with a really nice 60 tooth fine finish blade will make. If you're on a tight budget, the Diablo blades at home depot are a good value for the money.
Stumpy Nubs boy. Have I got a lot to learn. Thanks again stumpy.
100% listen to a woodworker named stumpy nubs ... he learned the hard way
Wow - another great video where I learned a ton. I made my first Dado cuts with a blade that didn't have a flat top and I thought I was doing something wrong. I ended up filing the piece flat which was okay, but next time I'll use a flat top blade. I have an Avanti 24 tooth ripping blade that came with a Miter Saw I bought. I know Avanti isn't a premium blade, but will this work for joinery until I step up to a higher end one?
Excellent information. Thanks for your videos. The picture helps a lot the explanation. Good work
Very well explained Mr Nubs.
"I wish I had saved my money...."
"Here's a blade for twice as much..."
Wasting money on a blade half as expensive is still wasting money.
Thank you for a great informative video.
Nice video James. Thanks
Great presentation
Hey James, Have you done a video or blog on how you resharpen your table-saw blades?
Great video as always. I used the discount code it worked with no problems. thanks for all you hard work.
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These are newbie questions but that's what I am. What are the signs of a blade requiring sharpening? What method do you use to sharpen the blades?
Great explanation. Thank you!