A Dream of White Horses, Getting Back in to Trad! Featuring a little test of the Evolv Nighthawks.
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Massive thanks to Sam at Wild Valley Productions for the immense help with the filming, and to Mike for climbing with me in the wet!
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! bit.ly/3vhJwab
Or buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! bit.ly/3clZ1pc
Climbing Kit Used:
Evolv Nighthawk bit.ly/3l8EckV
Blue Ice Dragonfly bit.ly/2PluShX
Blue Ice Addax bit.ly/3ca1tAa
Black Diamond Cams bit.ly/3faZ1LA
DMM Walnuts bit.ly/3eveF4k
DMM Halfnuts bit.ly/3f6S7XD
DMM Screwgates bit.ly/3tnl1XJ
DMM Quickdraws bit.ly/2N6ZPFG
/ jbmountainskills
/ jbmountainskills
www.jbmountains...
Shot on a Sony A6500 amzn.to/3dafMCz
Rode Wireless microphone amzn.to/33yvbu6
Mavic Air Drone amzn.to/2ISDmu1
GoPro Hero 7 Black amzn.to/2MPrAyZ
Anker power pack: amzn.to/2SEjRa1
On a Joby tripod amzn.to/3f8N0nu
Victiv Tripod amzn.to/2zSiSx5
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! bit.ly/3vhJwab
Or buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! bit.ly/3clZ1pc
A most Beautiful climb did this back in 1983, Stunning
Quality!
When I started climbing in high school and really dug in to it in college that route was high on the tick list - the name, the history, the setting.... Back in 1982 or so Gogarth was rarely "crowded" but it was about the same shade of gray the day we climbed DOWH. Thanks for the great video of a classic route.
I think the route has it all, like you say, the history, setting etc, I love it!
That's a top video Jez - nicely put together. You should seriously think about doing more of that sort of thing on other classic multi-pitch routes. I reckon that would generate even more interest on your channel 👍
Cheers! Hopefully some similar stuff to come :)
This video is ace man 👍
Cheers!
LOVED the kind of “route tour” side of this. Great stuff as always. Appreciate all your content.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Easily my favorite of all your videos thus far. We need more content like this in the world. So so good!
Glad you enjoyed it. Similar things planned :)
Such a great day and awesome video! Thanks for the shout out Jez!
Thanks so much for the help!!!
Absolutely amazing. Thank you for taking the time, as well as those who helped to produce it, to make this available free of charge. Coffee tokens on their way!
Glad you like it, I enjoyed making it!
Spectacular footage there JB, especially of the last pitch. One of the best routes ever. Great stuff. Thanks.
Cheers, glad you liked it!
Fantastic video footage outstanding 👍👍👍
Glad you liked it :)
nice music choice for the 3rd pitch - matched the incredible exposure traversing across
Cheers!
Great video dude. Liking the addition of the drone footage
Cheers dude!
Nice vid. The stance in the crack at the end of the first pitch is on Wen, which is another fine route on the crag, it can be slippery near sea level though. Also Britomartis goes up near the start of dream. Three great routes in a day...
What an excellent short film. Brought back great memories of doing DOWH with Guy back in 2005.
Subscribed!
Glad you liked it!
That drone footage was gorgeous.
Well, there's pretty much the definitive Dream video on CZcams. Great work, and most importantly, great fun!
(I found the approach the most dangerous/terrifying bit about this route!)
Glad you enjoyed it!
The approach is a bit sketch...!
What a hideous approach!
Great to see the sponsorships/support coming in. Well deserved!
I think it's even worse than in the video...!
Cheers :)
You got out with Sam, he's a good lad!
This was ace, Wild Valley Productions did a fab job, it made the video! Great way to do a review too mate, the Nighthawks look like a great all day shoe. Hope to see more like this from your adventures.
I know it's a heap of extra work though. I'm working on a 10-hour edit from a Portland Sport climbing trip right now - multiple cameras = 🤯
I definitely have more planned, when I have the time!
Hope the editing is going well!
That route looks so much fun! Having started out bouldering then picked up sport climbing, I'm just about to start my route into trad climbing which is equal parts exciting and terrifying. Can't wait to hopefully one day climb something like this. Great video Jez.
It's one of the best!
Thank you very much for some great shots of this amazing route.
This was an aspirational route / dream project for me that took the better part of a decade to make a reality ever since I first spotted the iconic B&W print of the first ascent hanging by the side of PYB reception on a transition to outdoor course.
The great positional shots and drone footage bring back memories of one of the best routes I've ever done, a great many thanks to you for that!! esp having missed out on the last two years trad climbing due to covid.
Glad you liked it!
Glad to see you're getting some sponsorship! Keep up the good video's, you've recruited a new climber in me x
Cheers! Glad you like 'em!
Beautiful footage. Really nice seeing you climbing in such a wonderful place 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great vid. Thanks for taking the time.
Thanks for watching!
Nicely done! That route is on my wish list :D
Thanks! Hope you manage to get on it :)
Very nicely done all round! Best treatment I've seen on this route and inspiring to get back outside.
Thanks very much!
Cool take on route vid, is interesting to see the set ups between pitches, got GNVQ vibe
Glad you liked it :)
Just got a pair of Evlov General's and have loved them! One of the few companies that make a shoe for my US size 13 shoe, cheers from The Upper Peninsula of Michigan Jez! 🍻
Glad you like the Evolvs!
Nice Jez 👌👌 must have been a bit of a squeeze getting your massive flipper feet into and out of Wen Zawn 😂😂😂😜
I always think they'll help me swim out if I can't make it! Mike was convinced we could sit in one each and kayak out...
So cool! I'm injured so no climbing this year for me and videos this length are really enjoyable. Great job!
Glad you liked it and hope you're injury free soon!
Thanks bro 😎 Cause of you i fnially got the one other shoe Ineed next to my Progressive one.
Hope you like them!
I love that you took that back-away drone shot of you looking at that mind-blast down step for the second. 13:50 or so. Just epic. Those who have done the route will remember that well. Hehehe. Super video man. Really great. Bringing back good memories and very good vibes. I did it first time in the sun. Burnt my calves. 😎
Glad you liked it :)
I don't think I've ever done it in the proper sun yet sadly, despite having done it quite a few times!
Beautiful route, upping the video game, nice!
Cheers!
Great to see you back out there! :)
Cheers!
Great Video as always, this is on my wish list of sea cliffs, it looked absolutely fantastic! 👍
Thanks very much, hope you manage to get on it, so good!
Jez great vid, so many great angles, This on my to do list for sure a true classic.
Glad you liked it and hope you manage to get on it :)
Now that's has wet my appetite for May. Maybe not so severe 😂😂👍
Looking forward to it!
Thanks Jez. Brilliant video (as always). Big omission in my logbook. Hope to rectify that this year! (done concrete dream). Thanks again.
Great video! That‘s quite inspiring! Loved it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Brilliant vid mate
Thanks very much!
Brilliant stuff!
Cheers!
This route was almost the cause of what would have been my worst climbing related injury.......Myself and a friend decided to climb 'Dream'.....Drove to South Stack, walked to the abseil point.......He abseiled into the zawn.........Then.......Then......I bottled it! Totally lost my nerve, and my friend had to prussic all the way back up. I'm actually really surprised that he didn't knock me out! I'd have knocked me out if I was in his position! At least we didn't die, which we probably would have done, or at least become a mountain rescue statistic!
Best vid you have made yet!
Very kind, thank you!
Really enjoyed it especially the GoPro footage that you took "in flight". Can you do a vlog on rescue from a leader or a secong falling on a climb like this? The fallen climber may come to rest opposite unclimbable rock or in mid-air. I want to do some multi-pitch climbing this summer with a partner who is also inexperienced in multi-pitch and I think ideas about rescue are as important as all the other skills which are well covered here and elsewhere. Many thanks Jez.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That video is on the to do list, it's just a tricky one to do..
Back in the day this was one of my best ever routs! A long long time ago.
Quality isn't it!
Me too. And probably a lot longer, too. The best bit is at the end of the final traverse. Bridge across the little square-cut groove just below the top; check out your ropes in a full quarter circle round the zawn back to your second; look between your legs and see the sea. Magic!
I've had a think and it was almost 40 years ago when I did it!!
@@andrewgilbertson5356 50 for me
Just got a pair of Nighthawks and only got to do some super mellow bouldering at night with a headlight.
They fit my wide foot pretty well. They also seem pretty good at edging and smearing. Looking forward to my first real sessions in them and hope that they stretch half a size. Right now they are almost comfy, but can still get a little better for multi pitch stuff.
Other shoes I wear are Otakis, Scarpa Instinct VS and Ocun Ozone Plus
And.... Thanks for your videos. Really enjoy the calm mumbling about climbing stuff
Glad you enjoyed it and hop the Nighthawks work out well for you :)
A few sessions in the Nighthawks got super comfy, but actually relatively soft. Due to lockdown my main climbing crag is a perfectly vertical concrete wall with tiny crimps and pockets and I still feel more confident in my Otakis.
The Nighthawks are better for slabbing them onto smears though. Happy with the shoe, definitely a solid all around show. But it seems to not be perfectly suited for tiny edging (that was already in the 7a range though at a crag that is famous for it's tiny footholds. Everything easier was perfectly fine)
Great video!
Thanks!
Good to see Gogarth counts as staying local lol - bollox to Drakeford bach I'm with you
Haha, work was my justification should I have got stopped...
Great Vid as ever - really down to earth (climbing in reality!!). Although I am questioning the Woolley hat under the helmet look…. 🤔
So many better lines on cliff. But no better route names...
Cool video! @10:50 your anchor is 3 nuts and a rusty old pin, any concern for getting yanked up and having nuts fall out due to a leader fall? Or did the pitch traverse off the belay so this was less of a concern?
With it being a traverse no, but to be honest it's not normally something I get particularly stressed about normally, although I do give it some thought of course.
Really enjoyed this video! One of your best thus far, was cool to see setups in action. I have a question... what do you do if your mid way through such a sea cliff multi pitch route and it starts raining hard?? Can’t go down, wait it out? Try to carry on?
Good question! Try to carry on or reverse to the ab line I reckon. Waiting might be an option if there's the time.
Great video. Would really like to know how you keep your rope when on bigger pitches only ever done single pitch climbs but was interested to how you've had your rope set up
Aiming to do a hanging belay type video soon :)
Great video, really enjoy your content. Question: at 7:11 you show your first belay station and the anchor is set up with a sling around a outcrop of rock and then also some extra gear. I'm a trad noob, but wondering why you'd need gear and a sling around the rock. Wouldn't the sling be enough? Maybe two slings around the rock pinnacle? I guess the slings around the outcrop would end up sawing around the rock, so the extra points stop that from happening. Wuold love to hear your thoughts.
The rock isn't always the most trustable on this crag, so some redundancy is essential for safety :)
At the hanging belay, is the rope just lapped over the legs? Is it okay to leave the rope hang that far down?
Also, any comments on the DMM halfnuts?
We hang it over the rope we're attached to the belay with. Length of loops works out longer the better.... as long as there's nothing for the loops to get caught on. On this route it's fine, but if there's tree roots or snaggy rock I'll keep them shorter.
Halfnuts... like them a lot, but I prefer DMM's regular offsets I think, in part as they're double the strength. Halfnuts are probably a bit niche, but ace for that lighter niche.
A Dream of White Horses, Getting Back in the saddle!
Ahhh I missed a trick there 😂
Will you be doing a detailed review for the Blue ice Addax?
I will in the not too distant future :)
was there a concern about an upwards pull on the first belay? as all the gear is passive. how do you approach that assessment?
Good question. In reality no not in this case 'cos of terrain, direction of pull etc, but it's absolutely a worthwhile consideration.
What do you do if you're leading, or seconding a traverse on an arch like that, fall and end up below the wall dangling? Would you have to Prussik back up the rope to the wall? Hope that makes sense.
Either that (slow) or using an ascender (faster). Or the belayer can haul you up (painful).
As Mattiti says. It's going to be a bit of a ball ache so you definitely want a competent second as well as leader on a route like this!
As another climber im guessing your interpretation of "stay local" is as slack as mine. Long way from llanberis
I earn money from CZcams so decided I could justify the trip as work 😊
Too right. Can queue up in tesco but them sea cliffs get crowded haha
@@1986Gazj 😂
How long is this route?
About 140m I think, we skipped a bit at the start though as the video says.
Why didn't you wear a hamlet?
A helmet? We both did, Black Diamond Vapors.
@@JBMountainSkills
Yes, it was covered under your hoody at last pitch.