Adjusting a clutch cable
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- čas přidán 23. 03. 2013
- Upper and lower adjustment mechanisms shown and tools needed. Adjust and set the clutch lever to fit the size of your hand.
Make sure you understand the role of the clutch, click on the link I included atop the screen. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank You! I thought the gears not engaging quickly enough and difficulty getting into Neutral were my fault. I watched your video. Also lubed my cable. And now gears engage flawlessly just about and NO problem getting into neutral! Has added to the enjoyment and comfort of my riding! Especially at stop lights when I like to go to neutral and relax.
To get the "friction zone" closer to the handlebar, set a long "play". To do that, spin the fine adjustor clockwise, into the lever housing. It it`s fully in, then adjust at the clutch housing, around the footpeg. As a result of the adjustments, the clutch lever will sit dangly a bit but it is not a problem as long as the "friction zone" ends before the lever knob touches the grip, thus ensuring full disengagement.
+theoverengineer Thank you so much.. Recently got a used vstar 650 and this was the biggest problem with it. It kept stalling on me as the "friction zone" was too far out. I couldn't take it out of my street. This is exactly the fix I've been searching for
No worries, good on you bro`.
+Alvin George I just got a used vstar 650 last week and I want to bring the friction zone in closer to the handlebars too... I haven't been stalling it but my take-offs are not smooth and stress free when the clutch doesn't feel positive and controlled in my hand and a late engagement makes it feel very unsure... anyway I thought I would have a look around for thoughts on this before I attacked the adjustments... I love the bike... just need that clutch to be positive and earlier engaging. Max
Just go ahead and adjust by 2 full turns to make more lever play. It really needs to be felt out, starting from your initial description. Then try it out at a safe spot. If unhappy, the adjustments can be easily reversed.
Yeah I played around with it a lot. Adjusted it down to millimeters until I finally got to a point I was comfortable with. It's not a hard fix. But can be time consuming
Thanks for video. Took 2 minutes and now no clutch slip and instant take off. Brilliant
Thank you so much for this video. I just got my first motorcycle like 6 months ago and started to have a problem with my friction zone and this video saved me
Thanks so much for this video, honestly helps loads!! I just bought a second hand motorcycle, upgrading from a scooter (auto clutch) and I immediately noticed that as soon as I touch the clutch lever it will slip. I thought I was being an idiot until I watched you just show the play on your clutch lever. Now I know exactly what the problem is and you've saved me a visit from the garage.
Honestly thanks, you've gained a sub and keep up these informative videos!!
Your Vid saved me the other day as the nobs got too loose from road vibrations and i was not able to get out of first gear... Had to pull over wait for the nobs to cool down before readjusting..and rode home not to Service!
U explained this way better than some of the more professional channels I know
Thanks for watching!
Thank You! My bike feels on point now. It can actually control my bike a whole much more now with the response and feedback by the proper adjustment that I did with your video!
This video is more than helpful to 99% of newer riders or just riders getting into the feel of clutch. But your bike differs brand to brand but suzuki calls for 1/16 to no more than 3/16" of freeplay so your clutch isn't engaged while your off the clutch. +Shawn Hughes sorry for the late reply and if its already been recommended but zero out your clutch cable by the clutch lever, follow it to the main line to the larger adjuster near the engine like in the video around 5:30 and make small adjustments starting from there and work your way back to the lever so you dont frustrate yourself. Hope this helps cheers :)
Yes, correct. 1/4" play is very safe, works for most people. I`ve got big hands, I use 1/8" and can go down to 1/16" - but that`s pushing it.
I adjust mainly by the nuts that are mounted close to the engine. The nut and threaded rod close to the lever is very weak when extended far from the clutch bracket. I see many bend, strip threads or break in use when extended. This has to do with the direction of the force the cable exerting on it: force is at an angle. Down at engine: force is in line.
Such a easy fix, I don't know why I didn't think about that. Thanks my friend, down to about 1/4'' of play if that before a big handful of clutch. R1 feels much better now.
Thanks for your feedback.
great video very informative also thanks for using a tri pod
Thanks so much! Thoroughly appreciated;)
Extremely informative. Thank you so much....It is funny I know how to do about 65% of my own work but I always has a hydrolic clutch untill I got my new gixxer that has a cable clutch...Thank you over!
Thank you so much for this usefull video! You helped me saving the expense of going to a repair shop/ mechanic. First time I did this myself!!!! ;-)
nice video man, very well described i found it really helpful
lovely clear and concise advice thank you
This guy is the real mvp! It helps me a lot because my bike is the same model.
Thanks man! The demonstration helped a lot!
A big thank you for this video! Left the motorcycle shop after getting a Warrant of Fitness and noticed something wasn't right.. two streets later I'm stalling in 3 lanes of traffic. After realizing that the clutch was terribly unforgiving compared to half an hour before, I checked your video and found that they had adjusted it to have no play what so ever..? very strange. 10 seconds of tweaking later and it's back to business. But hey, now my minor mechanical knowledge has increased a tiny bit more. Thanks again!
+The Frisian (Marius) Glad to have helped. Now about warrants, guarantees and the general level of incompetence at the dealership level: they grease ALL over the chain, swingarm and sprocket and call it well done even if most flings off within 2 minutes, they rip the screw threads out of the head and make you pay for helicoiling them, they sell you parts you don`t need and at 1500% profit, helmets and tire at discount prices especially if 5 years old models, ... (Not everywhere, just often found so)
Did they lube your cables after removing and cleaning or just sprinkle over and misadjust it?
Thank you so mch, I adjusted the cables myself with your vid
I have a kawasaki vulcan s 650 2016 and for the lower adjustment had to use two 10mm wrenches to get the bolt loose. good thing i had a spare i bought without knowing i had one already. appreciated!
Glad it helped
You sound like RJ, the Royal Jordanian 😄 almost exact accent!
Thank you for this video. Can’t wait to go downstairs and tighten my clutch.
Johny
My gears were slipping at high revs, so I replaced the clutch kit. Turns out it was because I had no clutch play so it was always in the friction zone... im stupid
Ha I was having the same problem and was also thinking I might have to drop some cash. Thankfully youtube to the rescue!
maybe not stupid, maybe just not educated?...
SnarkieVlogs ....your not stupid, you just can save your "old" clutch and put that one in when your new one really burns out.
Iv got a problem that went I turn the handlebars it pulls on the clutch lever
The slacc that i have at the clucth cover moves the clutch lever should i loosen it more
It was a really helpful video. Thanks
I've watched 5 different videos on this so far. this is the best.
lovely bike and cheers for that! helped alot
Awesome video. Great explanation.
Wow, this has been the most helpful vid I've seen on the matter, thank you!
"the big turning thing on it" hahah
Omg i needed this too I LOVE UR CHANNEL RIDE SAFE MAN :D
Thank you, your explanation and reasoning were crystal clear. I just installed new three finger levers on my CRF250L. I use two fingers on the clutch. The other two remain between the grip and lever reducing the travel, so ensuring full disengagement is important. Your method of first checking the actual free play at the arm on the engine and adjusting with the course adjuster made it easy to ensure I do have free play. I then put the bike on a stand, started it and engaged 1rst gear to check the friction zone and disengagement point. With a bit of free play at the clutch arm on the engine and factory spec play at the lever with the fine adjuster, I was able to then adjust the lever forward (this new lever is reach-adjustable) lengthening the pull travel to ensure the clutch is fully disengaged and the wheel stops when the lever is fully pulled with a finger or two between it and the grip. I now have definite free play and complete disengagement. Cheers :)
Thank you so much. My left does not ache anymore while I am riding my Ninja !! Woohoo !!
thank you for the visual aide on clutch adjustment .I find it I learn way more by being shown something than reading about it.thank you again
Thanks man that really helped me a lot ✌
Thank you, you have just save me a clutch :-)
Excellent vid. Thanks.
Very clear explanation, thanks!
Great informative video, thanks mate.
thanks , great wee video...it was helpful.
very nice video bro, works great on my ride, thanks alot.
Jose Landeros Thanks for watching!
thanks for your videos...
Thanks homes... Very good and easy video 👍 ese..
thanks man really appreciate it!
So helpful, thanks 👍
Well done, glad to hear.
Very helpful. Thank you
Excellent video
Very informative. Thank you.
Very good explanation, thank you
You are welcome!
I want to know this nut thing on how to keep it after installing the clutch cable so it wont break from lever
Wow awesome thank you so much! Very helpful
Thanks for watching
10-15 millimeters of initial clutch handle play is the rule of thumb 👍🏼
Great video mate. Very clear and informative. Helped me to solve my clutch cable issue no problem. Thanks for the advice.
Nice one mate 👍
Thanks for the video. And Beautiful Bike
good vid..nice bike!
Im new to motorcycles & the cluch friction zone. I was once told to have a very small fraction zone. But it made things very difficult when letting go of the couch. It will jerk back & forth. This video was very helpful for me to adjust the play.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for sharing
I swear I thought this was Jean Claude Van Dam who did this video! Nice tips by the way
Best video ever!!!!!!!!
I got small hands and I want my friction zone far from the handle bar that a light grip on the clutch would make me find the friction zone and thankfully I learned how to adjust it by watching this video
Thanks
Thank you
do you have a video of replacing clutch cables
here is this one czcams.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=DvSEk0nXYhQ
Just got shorty levers installed and the friction zone is all the way out, almost before full release. Is it better to have a lot of room between lever and grip?
Entirely indifferent, can be anywhere. It`s like which way you put socks on, left first or right.
So when all the "play" is gone, do I have to change it immediatly? Cause i got my bike today, and there is no play at all :/ But i don't want to change it already.. ^^ so can i drive with this clutch, and if not, what will happen? thx
Thank you for the video, could you do one for the brake side. Please and thanks
I have a few brake videos up on this channel, search them and check out a few, ask me if you're stuck with something. Lever reach adjustment is identical.
Where can i get the clutch fine hander thing where it spins and you tighten it right at the clutch lever
Any motorcycle deal has a few boxes of these, it`s a bulk part that fits many brands and models.
Good Job 👍
Thanks 😁
They are made too long if the throttle cable fits. They could be labelled wrong by the supplier (the dude who cuts them to length can't read, write, or count, or it was the packing guy)
I am having a problem finding neutral while the bike is running , but while the engine is off there is no problem . any ideas ,or suggestions .. I just got the bike yesterday and really have not had the time to look into it. Thanks in advance for any info.
+danny abbatiello Adjust the shifter, too czcams.com/video/bNEpCnJcfFM/video.html Right, oil level is also affecting it as well as the oil type & its age. Chemicals break down and function marginally.
Thanks so you much
Still the best
Nice thanks
I have an issue with a bike I just bought. I am a new rider is it supposed to stall out when I hold the clutch and I am in first gear? It does it alot when I am in traffic and I am not sure why it keeps stalling out. I can only do a stop and go like 2 maybe 3 times before it stalls out. Only way for it not too is to use the throttle when I am still holding the throttle. When I do this tho the throttle acts up and starts to jerk. I need help fixing this. I am a new rider for it is hard to understand if it is suppose to be doing this but I am almost positive it's not because it wasn't doing this before.
Totally NOT how it should work.
Clutch cable pulled in first gear should completely disconnect the drive train from the engine, and not stall it.
Throttle should be set to an rpm to idle without stalling.
2 thumbs up awesome vid
Thanks for the visit
My problem is the opposite when I pull the lever all the way in the rear wheel stays locked up
Cable too long
Where did you get your levers from? They look like Honda crf levers on a cbr.
Stock lever in this market.
Thanhs for share with us your video.
This scares me a little. How do you know whether to adjust the nut next to the lever or the one down below and how much for each one? What if I just want to adjust the one on the handlebar? Can I ignore the other one? This seems too much like you're guessing.
That guessing is called "feel". There is really nothing to see. Stay with the clutch cable.
i got a 1992 1100 gsx katana, just replaced clutches. But now the hydralic clutch seems like its not engaging fully because its reving at high volumes to pick up speed. what should i do...
Never worked on a hydraulic clutch.
Looks like the new friction discs are slipping. Could be a bad batch of friction particles in those clutch discs. I see the same in cheap brake pads.
Nice
i have some problem at 2:31 ,
it seems like the hex nut(s) are joined together, can't even spin it with tools.
Is it supposed to be like that, which means I need to spin it stronger?
I just afraid I'm gonna break something.
+Joshua Lorenzo They`re just stuck. It`s a standard right-hand thread, make sure you rotate the front nut clockwise and the rear nut counter-clockwise when facing forward. Use nicely-fitting quality tools to break them loose. Even if a nut gets rounded off, it`s still very accessible by wise grips.
Ok I'll try. thanks. :)
last night i did a burnout, not, the brightest idea, but. wanted to try it. completed successfully, however, once I got done and was pulling off my biked stated riding funny. when pulling off it struggles to pick up speed. I can go up and gears and down gears, but, its not picking up speed. it gradually moves and as i gain momentum it rides, even still as i pull on throttle, it revs,but, no immediate acceleration. this has happen to me once before when i let a friend ride and he did burnout. That's when i brought it for tire change and mechanic fix it no problem. Never told me what was wrong guess since it was a easy fix. any ideas?
The tire change just tightened the chain. Works a bit, but looks like the clutch plates are slipping. Make sure you have some cable play. You might need to change the clutch.
Did you get that fixed?
I had the same problem with my s1000rr, mechanic charged me $150. As I ride back home though I have the same issue..I know it definitely must be the clutch, everything else besides my bike barely having 1k miles on it would just be crazy.
Luis Portes Did you do a burnout or just a tire change? Was it the regular 1k first service or an extra one?
theoverengineer No, I did a stoppie, then took off 0-100, (showing off at campus). I found an old guy that's a mechanic, I feel like the dude ripped me off though... It's late now but I want to try fixing it myself before going back to the senior citizen (who's shop looks like a junk yard). It's a possibility now that it may be the plates, loose chain, or cable play?
Luii Ny,Ny Not loose chain, but checking takes 5-10sec with a ruler. Checking cable play is another 5-10sec. If all is set right, then it is plates.
my bike changes into neutral fine with the engine off.When i start it,i can change into 1st,2nd and so on but never into neutral,i need to turn it off and then changing the gear.What issue can lead to this behaviour?A dragging clutch?My bike is a husky sm610
Worn clutch plates and incorrect cable length can cause weird shifting, like this. I shot a short video about it on a Yamaha R1, currently being edited.
theoverengineer same problem here thing is i changed the clutch plates like 8 months ago. Maybe i just have to adjust it?
Definitely adjust cable. It`s not going to break anything.
Motorcycles have wet clutches so you don't need to worry about burning them up unless you're putting stupid amounts of power into it for a long long time while slipping.
I have a question to anyone out there. My clutch is engaging to late. Will this adjustment mix that?
No, but it might fix that.
what if its a hydraulic clutch you say how to adjust your clutch cable meaning all?
different adjustment, different video
Why if my clutch does not cut off power when I'm in first gear, it just keeps going
Could be a safety problem, depending on market
Does clutch play affect how the clutch performs ? How fast gears are shifted or how smooth clutchless shifts are?
Play takes time, that`s all. Clutch will perform the same, gears get shifted faster.
I guess this is why in motogp it is set with minimal play. Plus they rarely pull the whole lever in.
Absolutely, that`s where this is all coming from.
And then they invented quickshifters.
would i have to ajust the clutch cable if im holding in the clutch and the tires arnt spining freely
Absolutely not.
+theoverengineer then what do you think the problom is
I don`t know. All we have is " tires arnt spining freely". Both? It sure isn`t the clutch, take it to a mechanic, there are at least 10 things to check before the clutch is looked at.
theres two bolts at the adjustment near the engine, whats the difference? im a noob sorry)
At engine: coarse adjustment, see video czcams.com/video/DvSEk0nXYhQ/video.html
At clutch lever: fine adjustment
thank you
If there is toooooo much play, like 3-4 inches (8-10cm) shifting will grind the gears, very audibly. Eventually, it will be impossible to put it in 1st gear and start. Not particularly dangerous, but costly to fix a transmission.
If there is ZERO play, the clutch plates are always slipping and they burn out in 20min, with a stench of burning rubber. Once gone, the engine will run but the bike will not go anywhere in any gears. Not particularly dangerous, somewhat costly to replace the clutch.
Is it okay to assume that if I have a lot of play, but I am sure that the friction zone ends before the lever touches the grip, I will not have the transmission problem you're talking about?
I want to fail my break...
but how????
Breaks are not motorcycle items. They are civil engineering items along a jetty.
My clutch is slipping at high gears? There is no play on my clutch did I tighten it to much? I just started happening after I adjusted it. I read it happens when there is no play do i just lossen it?
+Jamesy Clutch friction plates are worn beyond service limits. End of story. Racers` clutch lasts 2 starts, after which they are replaced. For exactly the same reason, slippage under high torque transmission.
+theoverengineer I just re adjusted the clutch and it didn't slip this time felt normal. Could that still be it? Because I do find it very easily shifting into neutral when going to second way to often. then again I've only had this bike for two months I had a Harley before. Is it me or is it what you say??
+Jamesy It could be it. if it`s not slipping under strong acceleration, clutch is fine. Jumping gears is a transmission issue, not clutch.
theoverengineer Okay thanks i'll try it out and test it again now that I know.
+Jamesy Your bike is fine, if its new don't fix whats not broken(even if it's old) or you will break it, like in your case tightening it made no play so the clutch was slightly disengaged. Going from first to N is normal and is rider error. Just be firm with your shifts and you will get used to shifting with the right force.
I tried this, and all of this liquid came out of my cable. it spilled all over the place and ate the paint of my bike. What should I do now.?
Now we know some talented previous owned filled the cable sheath with corrosive stuff, most likely brake fluid. Replace cable with a new one. May lube the cable before installation with grease or oil (I like vegetable over mineral). Disconnect & reconnect the clutch cable or Clutch cable removal (2007 Kawasaki zzr600 or zx600j)
Change it immediately. If you wait and keep riding, in a short time (5?-50-100 miles) you will burn up the clutch disks, that` cost you $200 for parts and $ 300 for labor.
Thanks for the great info. Ps where's ur accent from
Euro mix of 6 countries ...
The clutch cable adjustment
Super