A VERY SIMPLE ROUTER SLED
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- čas přidán 16. 03. 2021
- I have been using a very simple router sled.
It is really simple, convenient and cheap.
You just need only 4 linear rails, 8 bearing blocks.
And some bolts and plywood.
SBR 20 : 1850mm, 2pcs
SBR 20 : 1200mm, 2pcs
SBR 20UU : 8pcs
They cost USD135.21. And I needed some bolts and plywood for the setting.
I was using a 20mm router bit for flattening wood.
But that is a little bit small for flattening work.
So I got a new one from China.
It is great.
ENJOY THIS!!
For More Information!
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Beautiful, elegant, simple.
Worthy of Note: Some lower-end plunge routers may have a little play in the plunge rods, allowing the router to rack slightly, making the mill end of some bits (especially 3/8' or larger) angled slightly higher on one side relative to the surface of the working piece. This will leave noticeably uneven cut lines, and in more extreme cases may leave a surface that needs a lot of additional work after leveling. This can be corrected with shims added between the sled base and the router's plate, but if the router is removed from the sled for a different job, the shimming process will need to be repeated. Tips from a woodworker of a budget. Cheers!
¿is it possible get same result using an electric brush?
Thank you for sharing your efforts to perfect this concept! Well done
Brilliant, simple and affordable! Thank you for sharing!! Cheers, Peter
Thank you for your wonderful comment.
Love it ! Especially all the shim work. How simple yet extremely effective way to hold the workpiece.
Thank you for your comment.
Your router sled is ingenious. Thank you for sharing with us. Wonderful
Thank you for your great comment!!!
Everything is SIMPLE as long as you have the (and can find) the right hardware
Grande ideia ! Parabéns.
That is genius! The best router sled I've seen built. I just added all the parts to my Amazon cart.
You can also have a nice sled. Congrats!!
How do you order parts don’t know what to get thanks
@@KevinRMaynard he notes the parts in the video, and I looked them up on Amazon. I know you can also order them on AliExpress.
This is what I’ve been planning to do and have been looking at linear rails the past couple weeks, you mentioned price of $135 was that per set of rails or your total price in this setup? What brand rails you have or where did you purchase them. Cheapest I can find sbr20-2000 rails are around $130-160 for just one set, my cross rails will be around 800mm
what an amazing setup
sbr12 more than enough for this with the smallest carriages - having said that this is a great idea!
thank you for sharing, been looking at making one for myself and really like this idea!
That would be a great jig for you.
THIS IS SO SIMPLE TO SET UP AND AFFORDABLE..GREAT VID LOVED THE JIG
I appreciate your comment.
Those are some nice rails!
잘 배우고 있습니다~
도움이 되길 바랍니다^^
I'm used to larger, corded routers czcams.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
Simples e Eficiente, sem Tirar nem Por ...muito TOP !
Gracias!
Meus parabéns ficou show
Fantastic! thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the great video. One of the best demonstration of a tool I have seen.
Wow, thanks!
Super Super Awesome! I am going to copy this design.
한번배우고싶네요.
감사합니다. 기회가 올겁니다^^
I need this awsome jig setup in a mini sized version to work on 3.5"x10" plywood boards !
Simple, efficace, merci pour le partage
I built this same jig, SBR20 rails and linear bearings are very rigid and don’t flex at all under the weight of my 1/4” shank plunge router. I got the 800 and 500 mm rails for x and y and it’s perfect for my small workbench and large enough for the 12.5” wide edge grain cutting boards I like to make. I had previously built one out of wooden rails and and a wooden sled and it was horrible.
With the linear rails, the motion is smooth and effortless.
Sounds great!! Thanks!
Amazingly simple, and truly effective idea, thanks fro the video.
Thanks for your warm comments!
Uma ideia muito brilhante !
Adorei a montagem do suporte da tupia, o seu trabalho e o seu projeto é nota 10!
Parabéns
I recently got some of these rails in an estate sale lot and I have been wondering what to use them on. Welp, I think I have found the answer! Thank You
They make you happy. Thanks.
Excelente idea, gracias por compartirla.
Muchas gracias!
Genius! Well done.
Very flattering. Thank you!!
Awesome system! For this to work properly you need to be 100% confident that your table top is flat.
Pleasant to watch
Really nice set up and good idea. I like how you store the rails on the side of your work bench and the router mounting plate is built out of plywood. I will use them both. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate it.
I like that quite a bit. Really good idea. I'll steal it...lol
Please come by to pick it up! LOL
Genius ! Great video 👍 👍 I’m impaired for another project
Thank you for your wonderful comment!!
This is it, I always wanted to build one this way instead of alu extrusions and wheels, I think this is better.
The only thing I would add is long handle to a corner on the router tray for 2 reasons : 1 hands not exposed to prolonged router vibrations when working longer on bigger piece and 2 back not bent over the table reaching out, again when working longer amount of time.
Thanks for great upload.
Thanks for your support.
And your idea about the long handle is very nice. Sometimes I suffer from a backache. LOL!
@@makefurniture1 I know all about it 😁
Nice setup
Thanks.
Огромное тебе спасибо ! Лайк и подписка, однозначно !
Self locking Linear Rail System👍👍
There are holes on the block bearings for clamping levers.
Linear rails and guides are a good solution for flattening some large maple slabs for a table project for my son-in-law. IMO, this is a better solution than using wooden rails. Thanks for posting this video.
I think so. Thanks!!!
nice one....have a lame ques - how did you align the screw holes on top of the blocks ? i dont think they go all the way through.
Great! Thanks
You saved me $$$$$$$s. The collet should have come with your router.
There are small metal dogs that will eliminate the need for the box.
Thanks, again.
I am glad to hear that you could save your bucks.
Thanks for sharing, I have copied yours and it works really well!
Brilliant
I appreciate it.^^
Great video. I was wondering if I have the Rollers attached to a half inch piece of plexiglass do I need the support pieces around the perimeter if the router is attached also to the plexiglass
So many things to do with linear rails. I plan making a similar one except it will take a Sasquatch saw as well
thank you
You're welcome. Thanks!
holy,,, so awesome!!!
This set-up is excellent!! It moves so fluidly. I wanted to use linear rails for my circular saw crosscut jig, but here in the States, they are very expensive. At least for most of us. You solved my dilemma as to how I could adjust it sideways for wider boards.
I was about to use these linear rails for my circular saw crosscut jig too. But unfortunately, I don't have enough space for the jig. That's why I made this jig.^^
I think his design has a lot of over-reach, you could get similar results from shorter rails...
Here is a pair of 1000mm (i.e.39") plus four bearing races for US$ 65 bucks as I write:
www.amazon.com/OrangeA-Linear-SBR20-1000mm-4SBR20UU-Bearing/dp/B07DCVBR1X
2x that is $120 and you have a lot of the same capacity. I would suspect, with considerable care, you could likely even buy another pair and mate them up for $185 to get almost the same reach (2m x 1m vs 2m x 1.2m)...
If you reduced the size to SBR16 (I think it would work) the prices drop to 53 for the 1m length and 105 for the 2m length. I suspect the 20mm rails are overkill for the loads involved.
Not criticizing, and I'm not sure if 16 would work just as well...
To the creator: An impressive idea, you have given me some thoughts about how to do some things. Don't take any of my observations as negative in any way.
Q: Did you specifically pick SBR20 over SBR16? Or was that just what was convenient/available?
Also:
Would these rails work inverted? Could you **suspend** the bearings from rails with the flat part "up"? Haven't worked with this type of rail before.
@@nickbrutanna9973 Thank you for your opinion. I did hesitate for a moment at first picking between 20 and 10. But my short linear rails are 1200mm and I am going to use PORTER-CABLE 7518(3.25HP). 7518 is heavy. That's why I picked 20.
I think these rails work inverted. Haven't used it that way though. I guess that's a little bit unstable.
@@makefurniture1 Thank you very much for going thru the trouble to find that for me/us. I don't come across kindness too often on here or anywhere on the net. I went with 1/2" steel square tubing to attach to some 1/2" aluminum angle. I had the aluminum. I had bought a 3/32 plastic nylon placemat for 2-$1.00 at the Dollar store ( hint- the dollar store is a great resource for storage containers, plastic/nylon placemats, etc. for components for your projects). I line the bottom edges of the 1/8" aluminum plate I used for the base of the 7-1/4" circular saw I used. You just need to think outside of the box). I wanted the jig to be 72", but changed it to 60" long. I went with that length so I could cut wider boards on. The steel tubing and plate added weight to a heavy Makita saw I already had. In the summer I set up saw horses just outside my shop and work out there as much as possible. So the jig can be heavy but worth the outdoor air. I had planned long before building the jig to suspend it above my work surface, closer to the ceiling when not using it, and lower it to the work surface when I need it. I was using a bicycle hoist to lift it but later change to stainless steel pulleys, stainless eye bolts, and 1/8" steel rope. It may be overkill, but I already had most of the pieces, except the steel rope, and hardware so the cost was minimum. I bought the bike lift at a tag sale for $1.00 for a 'someday project". So, the whole project was under $35.00. The biggest cost was the hardware like hex head bolts I used, which was my personal preference, but regular screws would have made it even cheaper. I'm sorry for leaving a novel size reply, lol.
@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 Thank you for l~ong reply, lol. I would like to look at your jig. That would be fantastic. Please let me see it later.
I’ve been watching all of these slab flattening jigs. Then this. I’m guessing he’s the guy in elementary school who made a fusion reactor when everyone else was making vinegar and baking soda volcanos. Just jealous.
I NEED one!
😁 I have only one. Sorry!
Great stuff❤
Thank you!
Really cool mate
Thanks!!
Can you go over how you designed and made the tray that the part being flattened sits in?
Expensive solution for cheap machine
Amazing build! I admire your work! I wonder if you have considered adding a conveyor strip brush around the router base to cut down on chips?
That's a great idea. Thanks!
A very beautiful sled.....certainly very simple but also very expensive....
Indeed!
not expensive....compared to buying a 400mm jointer to flatten the surface. Plus this setup will also work as a thickness plane. So double savings.
Very nice…
Thank you so much!!!
That is Sweet!!!
Thank you!
Great set up, thank you! I'm in the process of making one now. Do you have any tips on how to line up the screw holes in the bearing blocks with the plywood?
Just make them straight. And you should make holes a little bit wider than the original diameter of the bolt. The bolt is M6. So the screw holes on the plywood would be 7~7.5mm. This allows you to do fine adjustments. Thanks!
Is your shop in the living room? Engineered flooring, flawless sheet roci, and painted trim? Still, the best router slide I've seen yet!
very,very,very,very simple sled
that is really nice, the price has gone up some
I usually use hot glue to hold the board in place, which is a pain in the but. Yesterday I had to flatten a lot of small boards. After seeing your video, I tried using shims which saved me A LOT of time. Now I can throw away my glue gun 😅 Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Congrats. Thanks!
wow awesome ^^
I never bottom a router bit in the collet. I always leave some space becasue router bits tend to "freeze" in the collect making them difficult to remove. Loosen the collet and tap the bit the down. that will unstick it .Often by taking the nut off with a wrench it will act as a press and push the bit up and out.
is it possible to add a stop/brake to the bearing blocks? It looks like there's a hole in the side of the blocks that could screw something in? Looks like I'll build one of these after I build my router table! amazing, thanks!
Yeah, you can add a clamping lever or a handle M6.
Great. Give ideas. Thanks from France
I hope it would be helpful.
Genial
Elogio excesivo
I love how everyone says on their CZcams channel these are easy productions, if it were easy it wouldn’t take 10mins to show it. And they use tools that most novice don’t have to build them.
How did you match up the mounting holes in the upper rail with the bearing block from the lower rail? I can't tell from camera angle. It appears that if you used SBR 16 on the upper and SBR 20 on the lower that both of these dimensions would be 30mm. ie C dim on SBR16 = K dim on SBR20. No extra drilling required and 2 bolts used to mount upper bearing. (or use combination of SBR25 and SBR20)
I just use SBR20 for both upper and lower bearings.
What a very nice
Thank you so much!!
Where can i buy your tools...
@@zo-zaminterior9410 www.aliexpress.com/item/33020810063.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.9.58c92a54NcbSos
You can find them on Amazon too. I think Aliexpress is cheaper than Amazon.
very nice, loved your leveling and clamping scheme - very useful. However watching this I can't but wonder if 3 minutes with a 5 1/2 jack plane would be simpler, cheaper, and faster, and safer. Thanks again for posting!
Por favor me puede decir si los envían a Colombia y que valor tienen? Gracias
Could you please make a video as to how you put together the sledge for the router. And include links as to where the things can be bought
I'm going to make a new video about how I flatten some wood slab and walnut planks.
So you can see how I put the set-up in the video. Maybe in July.^^
What do you want exactly to see the whole setting or the base of my router(how to make the base)?
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001631419573.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.727d6c768V1wxL&algo_pvid=eeb16706-fc6c-4183-b2ce-a2a6ffbd724f&algo_exp_id=eeb16706-fc6c-4183-b2ce-a2a6ffbd724f-21
You can find them(SBR20, SBR20UU) on Amazon.com. But aliexpress.com is much cheaper than others.
Awsome 🤌
아주 멋지네요. 긴 봉을 바닥에 고정하지 않아도 되는군요. 저도 이걸 만들고 싶어서 연마봉을 찾는 중인데 긴 것을 구하기 쉽지 않네요. 사용하시는 연마봉은 플레이트가 함께 붙어 있는 것인데 그것도 참 좋아 보입니다. 알리에서 평잡이 루터 비트 12mm도 구할 수 있나요? 날물이 나쁘면 샌딩 시간이 참 오래 걸리더라구요. 혹시 영상에서 쓰셨던 날물은 갈지 않고 교환하는 방식인가요?
감사합니다.^^ 제가 사용하는 리니어레일은 알리에서 구매한겁니다. 플레이트가 붙어있어 좀 더 안정적이죠. 12mm는 샹크를 말하는건지 아니면 날 직경을 말하는건지요? 12mm 샹크, 날직경12mm 두가지다 알리에서 구매 가능할겁니다. 저 영상에 보이는 평잡이비트는 12mm 샹크로 구매했는데 1/2인치로 와서 할 수 없이 그에맞는 인치콜렛을 추가구매해서 사용중입니다. 날물은 카바이드날로 교환하는 방식입니다.
@@makefurniture1 친절한 설명 진심으로 감사합니다. 이름이 리니어 레일이었군요. 12mm는 샹크를 의미하는 것이었습니다. 다시 한번 잘 검색해 보겠습니다. 그리고 구독했어요. 늘 안전 목공 하시고 멋진 작품 많이 보여 주시길 바랍니다~^^
@@archijoe www.aliexpress.com/item/4000070506541.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4diLu2UG 제가 구매한 사이트입니다 참고하세요^^ 구독감사합니다~
@@makefurniture1 감사합니다~^^
Thank you for the video and adding the items in your description! Is it still holding up? Have you made any changes to your set up? Thanks in advance!
This is the best since I have made some jigs until now. There are not any problems. Thanks!
for all y’all in the States, I discovered that the rail base is NOT the same width as the bearing blocks which therefore will not permit a simple bolt-on connection between the two. Each of the rail bases are approx. 2 1/2 in (63.5mm) but the bearing blocks are only 40mm wide. I made four adapters to connect the vertical slides (long portion) to the cross slides using .1875in X 2.5in X 6.5in 6061 Aluminum bar stock.
This is NOT a criticism of the video. In fact, the video shows perfectly what a railed sled can do and how it works.
However, before you go gung-ho ordering parts (like I did), make sure you get the exact dimensions of everything before you order, i.e. rail-rod diameter, rail base width, rail base screw hole diameter and distance from each other, bearing block dimensions, bearing block top face screw hole dimensions and distances, etc.
Good luck, best wishes and happy routing!
Very awesome setup. I made mine from plywood and I used 2 long metal rulers from Harbour Freights. But I like your setup better.
Do you have any links for the metal parts? Im lookin thru Amazon and cant find what you have there. Please
Thanks.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001631419573.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.3.26722a549qStkZ&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21US%20%2499.02%21US%20%2499.02%21%21%21%21%21%402101d91e16583273051392076e812d%2112000016896152972%21sh
This is the seller I ordered. But you can find them on Amazon.com too.
Just type SBR20 on Amazon. Thanks!
A man of few words
Thank you for the video, do you notice any sag in the middle of the rails when the router is in the middle? Especially if using a router that is 6-7 kg in weight?
Mine (GOF 1600CE) is 5.8kg. I don't feel any sag. Thanks!
@@makefurniture1 thank you
Looks like you have a good start, on a real nice CNC.
P.S., Suggestion: hearing protection. 😁
Thanks for your comment!
How long have you been using this setup?
I am planning something similar but a little concerned about the long term consistency and possibly clogging the bearings with saw dust. Have you had any issues with it sliding properly while making a lot of dust?
I've been using this setup for almost one year. I use an air gun for the cleaning of the bearing sometimes. The block bearing is open style so it is easy to blow sawdust.
And there are SBR20UU with dust cover. You can also use it. I don't have the chance to use it though. Anyway, I have not had any issues while using this setup until now.
It is so simple when we have the solution ☺️ Do you find easily screw to made support of pitch ? Could you give screw characteristics : length and drilling screw ? As I'm living in France, I'm little affraid to not find screw to make support
I used Hex Socket Cap Head Screw Bolt, M6(15mm length, 1mm pitch).
I think you can use from 12~16mm M6 any bolts(1mm pitch).
@@makefurniture1 thanks a lot for your perfect and quick answer☺️
Did you just buy 2 sets of liniar rails to do this setup? It looks like it could give a cnc machine a run for its money man. Awesome work! I plan on basically copying your design because I too want to make big wood/epoxy tables and that's the best router sled setup I've seen on youtube by a wide margin!
Yes, I only bought 2sets. Usually, 1 set is 2 linear rails and 4 bearing blocks.
Why don't you watch this? czcams.com/video/zw5ExobPcCc/video.html
You can see how I flatten a wood slab.
Hmmm -- just wondering aloud here... I wonder if it might be possible to adapt this to use as a combination router sled and panel saw.
WHY NOT! It's possible. You just need both bases for routers and circular saws.
How is this affordable? Seems like a good amount of money in that railing system.
I love it!!! It's super clean...moves great .but where can I find that Sorata railing and the sliders cheap?
Hello, nice jig, very clean and easy to store! Do you happen to have a link for the carbide router bit you are using? Thanks!
Yeah, it is. Sorry for not having the link yet.
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000070506541.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d1WOgNW
Do the rails have adjustments so it's not so loose and a bit less fluid to keep straighter passes as it moves everywhere with slight movement meaning missed sections
Thanks for your advice. I think it's kind of a double-edged sword.^^
Hi, I watched this video over and over, in an attempt to recreate your exact system. My long rails are 1200mm and cross rails are 800mm, also SBR20. The only change I made to your router sled base was to use a 1/2" piece of plexiglass, for strength and visibility, everything else is just like yours. There is no flex under the weight of my 2.25hp router and the stout sled. Just an FYI, the guide bearings require metric M6 machine bolts. That might help some of the people in the U.S. I was rather suprised that only one bolt hole of the 4 in the guide block, lined up with the holes predrilled in the rails. That might be a source of my issue. Everything went together perfect and smooth but now, all snugged up tight, with the router sled in place, the assembly shudders when I slide it along the rails. I've tried a few different possible remedies, but nothing seems to eliminate the choppiness of the slide, except when I loosen all the guide bearing bolts, just a tiny bit. It then slides better, but the rails on which the router slides, seem to go out of parallel, creating binding. Do you have any idea what I can to to fix this issue? Sorry for this lengthy comment/question and thank you for the wonderful approach to slab flattening!
Sorry for your issue. I will help you if it's possible. First, I wonder there is a shuddering before attaching the router sled.(like 3:56 in this video)
You can email me at acgari1@gmail.com. With the photos or videos about the issue.
@@makefurniture1 Thank you so much for replying. I will contact you via email.
@Sue B…excellent points. MY biggest issue and hurdle was getting the bearing blocks for the long slides to marry up to the cross slides. My bearing blocks are 40mm with the 4 mounting screw holes being 3mm-4mm from each edge face. The rail bases are about 65mm wide so without some kind of adapter mounting plate, I was dead in the water.
But to your point about the bearing block grub screw, you are spot on.
@Sue B. the choppiness you described may be due to a mis-alignment of the bearing blocks since you only used one mounting screw to connect the long and cross slides. I solved the same issue (and was successful in maintaining mounting screw tension) by making 4 mounting plates using .1875in X 2.5in X 6.5in 6061 aluminum bar stock. I drilled 4 holes to mount the bearing block to the adapter plate, and 4 holes to mount the bearing block assembly to the rail bases ( the base screw holes are 6.25in apart length-wise and about 2in apart width-wise. With the way I “built” the mounting mechanism, the bearing blocks are all perfectly aligned and ensure a tight 4-point attachment to the bearing blocks AND the rails. More importantly, all the drilling is on the adapter and eliminates drilling directly on the rail bases and the risk of damaging the slide rod.
@@jwdickinson643 Excellant idea, with successful outcome, yes? I'm off to the big box store for some 6061 aluminum bar! Thank you so much. I envy your analytical mind !
I just bought the SBR20 1200mm and 600mm rail sets and the bearing blocks don't align like with your video, what happened? Thanks for the help.
Hi, thanks for your comment. I don't do anything special when I set up my bearing blocks. If you would like me to take a look at your set up, take a photo of it and email to acgari1@gmail.com
If I can see the problem, I will try to help you fix it.
The linears are great to use, however...... I would have those bearings on the long rails permanent so you are not playing "find the tiny ball bearing" everytime you put it on.....
I just bought a similar setup, but the holes in the upper rails do not align with the holes in the bearings riding on the lower rails. I see you have both screws in each bearing, so did yours just match up, or did you have to make some kind of mod?
I didn't modify them. I use only one screw on each bearing. Thanks!
Well done! Thanks for sharing. I have been wanting to make this identical jig for flattening large slabs. I was wondering if you experienced any downward deflection on the SBR20 in the center considering the weight of the rails and the router?
Thank you. My short rails are 1200mm and my router is Bosch GOF 1600CE. I have not experienced any deflections until now.
I have been trying to come up with something like this for a long time. All my ideas were very complex. Thank you so much for sharing this with all of us. I bought some linear rails right after I saw this video. I went with the 12mm though as I am only doing small items and figured it would be plenty strong enough. I was wondering what is the name of that hose that you are using that goes to your router?
The hose is from Festool. Thanks.
Question that i cannot find an answer to- can those open-type rail carts ride upside down ? This way you would just mount them flat on a surface, i looked at their insides and it looks like the upper inner side has the exact same lines of ball bearings as the bottom.
Well, I'm not sure because I haven't tried that way. Maybe it's possible I think. Thanks!
Wow if I can order that and it's delivered for 135...then its well worth it.
Pretty sweet. Gonna build something using rails like this someday. Thanks for the video.
That would be great! Thanks.
Don't shove the router bit all the way down the collet. You'll have to overtighten it and it could still work loose.