Tying on Oboe Reeds
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2023
- Let's tie on some reeds for Oboe! I am showing you 4 slightly different ways.
Which one do you prefer?
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Molto belli questi video sulle ance, grazie!
Marin, I love this! I was just wondering what happened to you. Glad you are back. I am taking my first class end of this month. Big step in my oboe journey. Nice!
Nice to hear from you! I was honestly very busy with playing. I spent a year in Vancouver and came back to Europe to start a new job and now transitioning again. I felt like I should get back to my channel as I missed creating videos.
Excellent! It would be great to now have you do a video scraping a reed and show your process!
I'm discovering your channel, and it's so nice to see such a generous man. Thanks for sharing all those tips with the oboe community!
If you don't have brass wire or those gummy things at 26:00, you can simply cut some stripes from a thin plastic straw (no ideal because it doesn't hold as well and you need the right diameter, but it can still help :) ).
I am pleased to hear and that you for your kind feedback. The plastic straw is a great idea, I can see how this would work too.
Anch'io uso un tubetto di plastica trasparente che taglio e poi riutilizzo i vari anelli che si creano
46mm staple, cold, make wire loop on staple and put on cane just above end of staple so it’s sealed. Total length 71mm
Good strategy, sounds about right
Hi Marin. A very fine instruction, it improved my technique of binding a lot. What kind of tubes are you using? I have small Klopfer tubes and longer glotin tubes, which one do you prefer?
Hi Frank, glad you found it helpful.
I used to play with Klopfer copies for a little while, they are very good for the marigaux 901 I find but since I changed instruments I find that the standard French tubes are the most suitable. Glotin are very wide and bring a powerful sound. I know the Berlin Phil section uses Glotin but I don't personally like them for me and my setup.
Glad youre back 😁 what shape are you using? Im experimenting with Chiarugi 2/2+ and 47/46 (will play a while in UK at 440Hz but austrians use 443)
I tried RC13 recently but i think it didnt like 73mm at all (crack city) - will try these tips. Did you ever see the one where you tie one half of the reed onto a staple to curve it so it sits inside the other blade?
Currently I am using the RC13 I really like it. I used RC15 in the past but with my new oboe it's a bit too wide.
Thanks for adding that technique, it might be a great alternative as well!
@@BeyondOboe oh awesome, I just ordered a few preshaped pieces at RC13 so good to know :D
I'm having limited success, I seem to crack them like this - so maybe the shaving the edges off is a better way of getting the same result.
A very helpful video! I might try some of these ideas myself. Where can I get the special spiky mandrel that's meant to be heated? I heat my normal mandrel and I don't want it to become black like this over time...
That mandrel was made of a normal mandrel I had, you can just get a 2nd same one for that purpose. I had a friend make the tip this way or you can take it to someone who might be able to do it.
If You heat it with blue fire not yellow it shouldent become black
@@mbalcerowicz2 Yeah, I don't have a good burner, I use a tea candle, haha
@@LukaT You just need a lighter. you have to keep the mandrel low where the blue flame is😉
Hey Marin! I hope you are fine! Do you know where could I find the mandrel you use on the second method with the fire? I find it very useful with the sharper form! Regards!
Hi Juan Carlos, nine was made by David Werner out of my old one.he made it by hand. I am really not sure where to find one. Maybe ask some of the colleagues that still use this method!
Thanks for the video. I have two questions: 1. I use the same brand thin yarn to tie on my reeds from Gütermann, but I have the problem that the tear easily under the tension when tying on. This caused me to use less tension when tying on to avoid tearing which is obviously not good and generated bad results so I switched back to the regular thicker one. How do you deal with this and did you also experience this? 2. Which cane brand do you use? I play a 901 and am currently trying out different cane brands and looking for stuff to try out. Also looking forward to your video on shaping!
It's a good question l, I guess I prefer to tie on with lots of tension which influences the end results in a way you like. Picking a different thread for this purpose is a good idea. I had this problem in the beginning but then got used to achieving higher tension gently if that makes sense. Anyway the thread is not so crucial, more important is that you use the tension you like for your reeds.
dónde compras el hilo?
Where did you get those gummy rings? Are they just O-rings that you can buy at the store? What mm are they? GREAT videos, going to try the first these with my reed tying, looks like I'll save a lot of heartache in the long run.
I got them from Oboe Shop but I am sure you can find some kind of tubes at a store and cut them up. They are about 6mm.
@@BeyondOboe thanks!!
Hey Marin cuold you tell which type of thread do you use? Regards!
It's just a normal thread you can find at any major oboe store.
Thank You, but i fell like those threads from oboe stores are very thick, Yours in this video seems to be much thinner, but maybe this is only felling. Anyway, best regards! @@BeyondOboe
Why do you use 46mm tubes?
46mm gives me the most even scale, high register is easier to reach and it fits my instrument which is a bit lower. I prefer to haveower oboe then to have to use longer staples.
I used to use 47mm, but after reading why you use 46mm, I will have to give that a try! I also hate when the blades are offset, but that was the way my oboe teacher taught me. Yes, he wanted us to do it on purpose! But it would cause my reeds to close too much and it gave me so much grief. I'm going to remember the trick to put one blade inside the other, I think that would work better for me.
The length really is a personal preference, I would be very low with 47mm and some notes are a bit more sensitive and I also have the feel I need more air. Now I use M top joints so 46mm is pretty good for me.
I have seen that there is a technique to cross the blades on purpose done consistently. I guess if you do that you need wider shaper be wise after crossing the blades vibrations will be different.
You can also try to tie only one side first so it gets round and then when you tie both sides one will go into the other kind of thing.
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