Jointer Size Doesn't Matter! Flatten Large Boards on a Smaller Jointer
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 8. 05. 2020
- Jointer Size Doesn't Matter! I have a ton of HEAVY hickory to flatten that is larger then my jointer, today I will show you a two step trick to Flatten Large Boards on a Smaller Jointer.
I purchased an 8" jointer a while back and knew that it would not be large enough to handle all the different widths of wood that I would throw at the machine. But I believe your money will be better spent on a machine that you will often use 100% of the capacity and have a few tricks up your sleeve to still allow you to flatten larger slabs. Overhanging the board on the jointer will allow you to create a flat reference surface very easily. Then you can use your planer with a DIY jig on it to use that flat reference side to flatten the opposite side of your boards and you are off an running! Save tons of money on a smaller jointer but still have the capacity!
You may have seen me talking a lot in the video even though you may not hear me and that is because I have been doing some building on livestream! Those streams and videos are on a second channel, check it and sub if that's your thing! bit.ly/2x8KIU8
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Some tools I like (some affiliate links):
Grizzly G0858 Parallelogram 8" Jointer: amzn.to/2SSVcim
Grizzly G0453Z 15" Planer: amzn.to/2zjz4GR
Kreg K5 Pocket Hole Jig: amzn.to/355jfOC
Kreg Forman: amzn.to/2OXvyaA
Kreg R3: amzn.to/2OZy8gc
Switchpod (mini tripod): bit.ly/2JUMET1
Moisture Meter: amzn.to/2SwBy9i
Mixing-Mate Paint Lid: amzn.to/2vXsq7P
Kreg ACS Track Saw: amzn.to/2OZXVVw
EDC Tool Belt: goo.gl/XZnWRx
Nail Puller Pliers: amzn.to/37frZUq
Miter Spring Clamps: amzn.to/2O8oYhv
IsoTunes Xtra: amzn.to/2NBu7zw
Kreg Drawer Jig: amzn.to/355rIBp
Fuji Q5 5 Stage Turbine Spray System: goo.gl/ZAJF5g
FastCap 16oz Glue Bot: goo.gl/X5aNZ0
FastCap 4oz Babe Bot: amzn.to/1KEuIUf
Swanson Combination Square: goo.gl/EYuGAn
Bessey Quick Clamps: goo.gl/jVAzeu
FastCap Tape Measure: goo.gl/t2lWJD
EDC Tool Belt: goo.gl/XZnWRx
Brayer Roller: goo.gl/bc5uIE
3M Respirator: goo.gl/ZexRQd
3M Respirator Filters: goo.gl/92Ejh0
RIDGID Stealth Force Impact Driver: goo.gl/K2jKgG
Katz-Moses Dovetail Jig: bit.ly/DVTJig
Titebond TiteWrap: amzn.to/2F9AALM
Mirka 6" ROS Sander: amzn.to/2Eijyfv
10 Million Dollar Stick: amzn.to/2SrKvjS
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#jointlargeslabs #smalljointer #woodshoptips - Jak na to + styl
Explained well, not too long, pleasant to watch. Thanks for not including garbage that others do such as obnoxiously loud jingle music, etc.
I've wondered for years why nobody else does this. I always assumed it was me doing something galactically-stupid, though (maybe due to how dangerous the exposed blades are... if you're inattentive or clumsy?) so I've only told a few people about it (both of whom chastised my recklessness). Kudos for having the stones to go public about it man! You're not alone! I've been surreptitiously working along the same exact process for years!
For anyone wondering: yes, it works fine on a 6" jointer too, just bolt it down to the work cart and make damn sure she's gotta lotta weight to her.
I solved it by making a single stand from 3/4" ply to hold jointer AND the planer (the planer added 100lbs straightaway. Plenty, but since I was twitchy about it, I made the bottom support plate hollow, then caulked it and filled it with sand. Add casters BEFORE you start. Mine prolly weighed 400lbs, total.
Finally: outfeed and infeed. You REALLY want the support. I have a little removable shelf that runs in front of mine too, to support the front half of that board. Just make a mental note to always have either it or the guard in place at all times. The concern is if the stock overbalanced and tips forward, you don't want to lose your balance or instinctively flail... and set your hand down to catch yourself (wince).
Awesome video bro!
This is a great break down of a very simple process that is usually over though. Thanks for getting straight to it! Best video Iâve watched in a while
Thanks for showing us your method. I will try it next time!
I've used this trick before. I prefer to use a laminated particleboard for the spacer for two reasons. One: It's not subject to warping due to humidity changes, and it's machine cut, so you're guaranteed a flat reference surface. Two: The lamination gives it a low friction surface to make the board glide easier. I also have a laminated board at full width and length that I use during normal operation to serve as an extension table for the planer, so I don't even have to adjust my height when I go to plane the full width of the board.
Good tip thanks Kasbak :)
No significant expansion or contraction to worry about?
@@MarcosElMalo2 It's particle board, so there's no grain to change with humidity.
Dude this is a piece of information that I needed so badly! I have huge slabs that I need to work. And I have the exact same size equipment as you. So I will definitely be using this technique.
But be careful working with that Joiner. I lost the end of my left little finger earlier this year to mine. And I am incredibly safe with my equipment handling. Processing heavy wood and getting tired can be a dangerous combination on that machine.
Take care and continue the great work, Art
Love, love, love your resourceful nature!!
I've got other ways but this is by far the best way to get the job done. Good job
This is fantastic!!! Looks like I'm making a jig for my planer today... Thanks!!
This just made my day. Thanks!
Absolutely brilliant!
Awesome method! Thank you for sharing this!
Well explained and demonstrated ... Thanks and Cheers!!
Clever solution. Thanks!
That works great as long as you can flatten that partial first surface of the board in ONE PASS on your jointer. If it requires more than one pass to be flattened, you will have to remove the rabbeting ledge to make a second or third pass. The unplaned part of the board overhanging the infeed table also hangs below the level of the rabbeting ledge thus preventing a second pass. If you don't have a rabbeting ledge, you can use as many passes as you want to flatten that first surface of the board. Most of the lumber I use is rough hewn and takes more than one pass to flatten. If you're milling a lot of lumber, removing the rabbeting ledge makes sense - for one board, not so much. Thanks for the post. It's a good technique, especially if your jointer doesn't have a rabbeting ledge.
Very good tips, thanks.
BRILLIANT! LOVE IT.
Thanks for the help.
that is pure genius..
Nicely done Tyler! Good thing to know for sure... Stay safe.......đđđđ
Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, thanks man, perfect decision :)
Thanks for the tip.
Great trick!
Great tip Tyler. Thanks for sharing. The wisdom you shared made me a new subscriber. I wonât repeat the other comments about safety, but please take them seriously. Iâm sure they were meant seriously and out of concern for you. Now if only I could remember to practice what I (& others?) preach.
Good job, man, I learned something today.
This is very clever
Good tip!! Thanks.
That is brilliant!
Thanks man excellent trick
I just used this technique this week for a 12" board. I have a 6" jointer and 13" planer. The pieces were only about 4' long, but it works like a charm. Just be patient and take your time making really shallow passes. This is a lifesaver for a small hobby shop like mine.
Welp Im not sure what I did but I completely jacked one side of my butcher block reloading bench. Have the ridged set up the 6â jointer and the 13â thickness plainer. The boards im working with are pine 2x4âs and around the edges are pine 4x4âs 8 foot long.
Thanks for the tip!
Nice tip! You just saved me some money!!
Nice method! Thank you..
I only have a 6" bench top jointer and it made things pretty tricky because the cherry boards I'm using have some crowning and twisting after drying. I had to get out a portable jointer and take the portion that overhung down in order to make additional passes to get it to ride the board on the planer without doing funky stuff. It's doing its job but adds some extra steps. Great video!
Great video, finally understood how to use the supporting board.
I made mine with a 1 inch tick by 60 inch long melamine, easier to calculate the thickness of the finish board ounce you remove supporting board and a lot more slipper.
Made a test today and wow
Great tips
Great trick đ
Nice trick, I have an 8 inch jointer, and a very nice, but only 12 inch powermatic planer. I will put that trick in my toolbox for those 8 to 12" wide slabs. Thumbs up!
brilliant!
I feel dumb for not realising this, but in awe that it can be done.
Great video!
Very cheeky! I like it.
Very clever!
Insurance Company's have gotta love this video
very good Tyler.đŻđđđđđđđ
Great tip
good job!! thanks
Great video! I've thought about doing that for a couple of years but was reluctant till I witnessed you doing just that. I have the same 8" jointer and a 1033X planer. Got some wide cherry lumber and didn't have a clue how I was going to process it. Now i know. Thanks
Pretty slick!
Great idea. đđ
Where there is a will there is a way! Really enjoy your video's!
just bought a jointer and planer and was wondering if you could do this - thanks for the info!
Awesome trick man !
Oh boy, can't wait to try this!
same here. i have only 6" and need 2 handle a 9" inch board... thought about ripping it in half and then dovetailing... now am going 2 give this a try.
Nice video Tyler! Thanks for sharing it with us!đđđđJP
Great vid... thanks
great job little buddy!
Thank you!
Brilliant!
Well done
Thank you.
Hi
Iâm impressed by your dust collection ! Can you make a video about that ? What are the specs or your collector ?
This is awesome! I'm gonna try it tomorrow...it sure beats the hell out of hot gluing to a board with shims. thank you!
This worked great. One of the best tips I've seen and used on youtube. Works great for reducing snipe on smaller pieces as well. Very cool
Glad it helped Rone!!đđ»đđ»
I'm going to try this! It looks significantly more efficient than using a sled with hot glue and shims to stabilize the board for flattening the first side.
I have a 6" jointer so can see there might be a problem. Thanks for the tip.
O.O Wish I had a workshop like that!
this was gold , thank you !!
It makes perfect sense. I like the length of your jointer. I had one years ago (ELU made by Dewalt I think) but the length was much shorter.
Elu was bought out by Dewalt. They made some great tools but as the adage goes, if you canât beat em, buy em out
Watched this when you first posted and finally used it today. Thanks. Super helpful on a twisted board.
IDK why i had never thought of this....thanks man!!!
Way to think it out!
Great tip, I just wish I had that kind of cash to buy such nice equipment! I followed your affiliate links and I'm a bit jealous at how expensive your jointer and planer are! Maybe one day.... but not today!
Outstanding idea. Just be extra cautious
Of course.
Hello, thank you very much for sharing. A question from your experience. Do you recommend a indutrial planer with an up or down motor? They told me that the ones with the upper motor have more problems but I honestly don't know. thank you so much
Super cool and intuitive trick! Now if only I can get my Grizzly Jointer off backorder this century.
Wow! what a great tip. I have never needed to joint and plane a board that size. I do work with smaller boards and only have an old 4" jointer, and a 12" Shopsmith planer. I will be trying your idea very soon. Thanks and keep up the great videos.
The guy who invented this know-how is a genius
nice
This works! But make sure that your board isnt more than twice as wide as your jointer, the center of gravity in the planer needs to be over the board. For these size tools 14inch would be the max.
Yes you do!!
Shades of "Next Level Carpentry" you should have given him some credit Tyler?
How do like the planner and jointer you have?
Tyler, I see that you stepped up your game from Ridgid power tools. Congrats on that. What I am surprised with is you still only have such a low subscription count. I have followed your channel for years now but I have never paid much attention to your sub numbers.
Excellent video! Do you have any rules of thumb for ratios? For example, if I have a 6" jointer and a 13" planer, woulda 6" support board support a 13" feed?
if i was to guess, i would assume you need your support board to be at least, preferably slightly over, half of the width of the board you're processing. So for a 13 inch board, you'd want a 6.5" or greater support board for the sake of stability. Can be done with smaller, like he said, but it'll just be more of a challenge
Great tip and well demonstrated without any extra jabber. Gotta say though that when you reach over the end of the board with your finger tips right over the mouth of the cutter I had to pause and go get a stiff drink. Be careful pal!
wouldn't it be best to size the length board first, as long as it not too short?
what kind of snipe did you get running a board that weight and length through the planer?
Perfect for certain jointers, mine will not allow that. However, it's a large jointer.
This was a massive piece but you want to keep the weight either right on top of the bit or in front of it
Awesome stuff Tyler! đđđ»đđ» ..... Earlier in the week I was going to suggest this method to someone during a live stream on another channel, but it was a lot to type in that moment. I've seen this method before but couldn't remember where, but now I have your video to share!
Hi Tyler miss seeing the other channle hope you can work it out.
Ok guys, so Iâm about to buy my jointer tomorrow, so a 6â jointer is ok? If I mostly work with 10 inch boards?
Great idea but are we not limited to size of thicknesser we have
How do you like the grizzly jointer?
Genius
OR if you want to save space just make a jointer sled for your planer and use that as a jointer. Not only is it cheaper because you don't have to buy a jointer but you also save space in your shop.
There's plenty of jointer sleds out there so just look them up.
So what if I were to face joint a 12 inch board on a 6 inch jointer? Could I not just face joint one 6 inch side the flip it around a land face joint the other 6 inches? New woodworker here, just wondering if that would work
Which jointer do you have? Are you happy with it?
What is the brand of the thickness planer?
It might seem small, but I highly appreciate the degree of safety you showed in this video, including turning the jointer off whenever your hand had the faintest chances of getting close to the rotating knives of the jointer. That's professionalism right there and it shows you respect the power of the machines you use. This video stands in stark contrast to most "how-to" videos on YT and I thank you for showing others proper tool safety guidelines. It is paramount to keep all limbs intact, from the womb to the grave.
Thanks for the kind words!