Blazer Guide For Men - How To Wear Navy Blazers, How They Should Fit & Buying Tips
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- For an in-depth guide to navy & striped blazers, click here:
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Get the accessories I’m wearing:
Burgundy Silk Pocket Square with little Paisley Motifs: gentl.mn/2kYzC9V
Knit Tie in Solid Pale Yellow Silk: gentl.mn/2lA9pS3
The blazer is an integral part of every gentleman's and every man should have at least one. So, what exactly is a blazer? First, it's a stand alone jacket with non-matching trousers and it can mean a different color, a different pattern, and different texture. So you can have worsteds, flannel, even tweed or striped trousers and it will all qualify as a blazer combination.
A blazer is either a jacket with a solid color such as navy blue, I'm wearing here or it could be of stripes, usually bold stripes, not a pinstripe, not a chalk stripe. Anything else like houndstooth, checks, is not a blazer. Most blazers in the market today come in a solid, navy blue such as the ones you can see here. Sometimes you can also find them in bottle green, maybe in red or an off white, but that's basically the color scheme. Colorful blazers sometimes come with a contrast trim in yellow or red or white and it's a very bold look, that's why you rarely see it.
Blazers often come double breasted, as you can see here. This is a 6x2, 6 buttons and 2 closing buttons. You can also find 6x3 which mean 6 buttons, 3 closing buttons or 8x3 which mean 8 buttons with 3 closing buttons. Alternatively, you can also have a single breasted blazer and that's the one I'm wearing here, right now. Usually, single-breasted blazers come in 2 or 3 closing buttons, rarely in 4 or 1.
Another distinctive hallmark of a blazer are the buttons. The most popular options for blazer buttons are brass, which has that gold tone or pure which is kind of a dark silver and you also see people who use pure, yellow gold or white gold but that makes your blazer very, very expensive. For a more casual look, you can also use contrasting, horn buttons. My personal, casual favorite is white, mother of pearl because it creates a strong contrast, designated as a blazer but it's still classic. So, always make sure your blazer has contrasting buttons.
Another aspect that you have to pay attention to is the pockets. If you want your blazer to be more casual, I suggest you opt for patch pockets. On the other hand, this blazer has traditional pockets with the flap and it just depends on what look you're going for.
Another very important aspect of a blazer is the fabric. The most popular blazer fabric is serge. Another great alternative is hopsack which has kind of a two-dimensional, three-dimensional look because it sometimes has different colors, it's very popular in Italy. If you live in colder climates, maybe think about going with a navy flannel blazer, it has a very sophisticated look, and it keeps you warm. If you live in warmer climates, think about maybe a linen blazer or a fresco blazer.Striped blazers often come in cotton, sometimes in velvet or combination of wool and cotton.
In terms of vents, I suggest you go with side vents because center vents are just for horseback riding. For sleeve buttons,I suggest you go with three or traditional four, if you want it more casual, you can also go with two.
Generally, a blazer should fit like a suit jacket or a sport coat. What does it mean? It means the shoulder seam should be on your shoulder bone. The collar should sit tight against your neck. You want to have some room in your shoulders, ideally, you want a smaller armhole for a greater range of movement and in terms of length, always cover your rear end.
If you want a more formal blazer, you should get a more structured interlining. Traditionally, blazers often had shoulder pads but at the moment, a lot of people prefer them without shoulder pads and small armholes for a very natural shoulder line.
Last but not the least, how should you wear and combine a blazer? As I indicated before, you want to match contrasting trousers. The good thing about that is, you can use basically any trouser you have in your closet. The only thing to avoid with a blazer is black pants and black altogether because black and navy never work well.
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I love it when your hair has more volume like that Sven, it looks good!
my biggest men's style pet peeve is when someone calls a sport coat a blazer. Thanks for setting the record straight.
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO SVEN. I'm SO sick of people calling every jacket in existence a blazer. It INFURIATES ME because even professionals get it wrong. Also, I don't know how I feel about the haircut, but I'm glad you are trying new things!
Infuriates? Calm down.
average youtube comment
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Just ordered my first mtm navy blazer a few days ago. Decided to go for double breasted with silver coloured metal buttons, six on two. I'm really excited to wear it after it's ready. It's also my first jacket with a full canvas. Thank you for all the great education over the years, I wouldn't be where I am right now in my style journey without you.
Thank you Sven for incredibly informative videos!
Back in the day I had three :blue, black and gray. Loved them! I am planning on getting a blue as I miss blazers very much.
I have went to the Vintage store and I picked up some tweets Blazers and a few ties I am going to take them to get them tailored thank you for your help I appreciate everything that you have sent.
Tweed is not a fabric used in blazers, he just said that in the video.
Just got my first double breasted blazer with brass buttons, gonna wear it Friday with curry yellow pants for a party at a beach condo with a patio, thank you a lot for the guide!
The haircut captures your class and sophistication.
At 2:09 that's George Lazenby a model who also played James Bond in OHMSS
I'm glad you mentioned the origin of the blazer with it nautical heritage.
Like the new haircut! Very sharp!
Damn Sven! With that new haircut!
Liked your video very informative 10/10 (y)
Dear Rapjael,
I love the channel and I really enjoy each of the videos. I have been subscribed for a long time and I have learned a lot with you, I really like it even though my English is basic and limited. The topics, the information and how it is presented are very good, clear and easy to understand (even for me;) I know that the channel is also in Spanish. But if I'm not mistaken, this video is not translated into Spanish, so I have watched it several times to understand better. My particular and personal style of daily dressing is a mix of what here in Spain we call "Old money" with Preppy and "nautical"... Although my job is to be a carpenter and marquetry, anyone who sees me would never say that that is my profession. In short, thank you for everything and continue sharing this culture of good dressing. Greetings from Spain.
P.S. Sorry for my grammar.
What a thorough review!Great job loved it!!
This is a great video for those of us who rarely ever need to go all the way up to a business suit. I get way more mileage out of my navy blazer and my brown sport coat than any of my full suits. In my workplace I would get strange looks if I dressed beyond business casual. People would think I'm going for a job interview on my lunch break or something.
Thank you for the incredibly informative and entertaining video. I really love what you're doing with these videos. also, I love your new haircut.
Really good video Mr. Schneider! I will be buying my first blazer real soon!
I've watched dozens of videos in the past three weeks. Interesting to see you in an older video looking younger.
Thank you so much for the video! It was a goldmine for information when I'm planning to get a blazer made. I couldn't help but feel that your delivery style was way too similar to Antonio Centeno though...
I love your haircut here ❤️🔥🔥
I'm not sure on the haircut. I don't like how short the sides are, but I like the length and styling on top.
But WHEN do you wear it? To what kind of occasions?
I have a Italian grey mother of pearl's buttoned blazer.
Great video. Came up on my search for Blazer information. I feel more informed.
Love your new hair!
Hello, Raphael. Great video. Should I say great videos, since I have watched around ten by now, and they are all really great videos, providing key information on how to be a real gentleman. For all your inspiring videos, thank you!
I have been on the process of dressing sharp for about two year. I call it a process because I started with good shoes and long sleeve shirts, then I tried sports jackets, then pocket squares. And now I want to add another garment: the tie; in fact, I have been giving the tie a try for about a month, but picture this combination (that is my question to you :-): casual long sleeve shirts, chinos / khakis, dressing shoes, sports jacket, pocket square and, now, tie. Obviously, I am doing my best in regard to color coordination and keeping the number of different matching colors below four. May I ask you for an advice, or maybe a video regarding this topic? Again, thank you!
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I have recently found a number of blazers on sale that don't have a functional breast pocket. The pocket is there but it's just cosmetic, you can't put a pocket square in it etc. Well worth checking before purchase.
I second that advice. As a collector of vintage fountain pens, I go with a pen more often than a pocket square.
love your new haircut!
Oh, you look great with the new haircut! A bit more modern and it definitely makes you more handsome. Great video though.
P.S. How does a shirt with this collar called? I want one for myself.
Two remarks:
(1) A navy DB-Blazer I would prefer worn with ALL buttons closed and maybe with no vents. It emphasizes the uniform character of this type of blazer.
(2) I think jeans are always wrong with a DB blazer and even with a SB blazer if it is worn with a tie. Otherwise it is an option. However, the jeans should be a pale oder medium blue shade and of course it must not show a destroyed look.
Dear Sven, I have a question. Can I wear a vest with a navy blazer? And if so what colour of a vest I should wear?
Are you enjoying your new hairstyle Raphael? I am finding it rather difficult to accept!
'Rear end'
*Smiles creepily*
Gonna gather a blazer just love them and eventually short sleeved safari jacket go full Roger Moore
Thanks for the video, very informative.
And I agree with the other comments, nice job on the hairstyle.
Could you make a business casual how to video?
+DanielzeGreat We can add that to our to-do list. We'll see how it goes.
Congratulations Daniel, the video was made :D
Finally u hav change ur hairstyle.I think infographs are better videos and articles because just with a 30 sec i understand what u mean.I would like u to do a infograph per article.Ur videos r great.Thanks for the info.
How do you fold your pocket square like this? Looks epic :D
I look a lot like George Clooney, but I can't find any pictures of him in a tan or brown blazer. Should I stay away from these colors? I want something less formal than dark grey or blue. Thanks!
Is there anything innately wrong with a black blazer? I have one I bought a LONG time ago that I don't get to wear much. Would there be anything wrong with khakis and a black blazer, or is that too much contrast?
Good question. I have one in the back of my closet that I got from a poorly-lit self-service shop years ago. I thought it was Navy. I've worn it to "artsy" evening events with a turtleneck and grey trousers and didn't feel wrong among all the black-attired hipsters.
what kind of shirt are you wearing?
Thank you for this Video . Im very happy today because i found a 6 Gold Button Blazer from burberry London in our thrift shop for only 18 € . It fits me Great and that was my Big Fish today . 😊 But it Looks more Black than Navy . Maybee i cant See the difference exactly
I'm attending a memorial soon but don't have a full suit. Are charcoal trousers and a navy blazer appropriate?
Medium grey would look better but if u wear black shoes then only grey or charcoal will look great!! Otherwise try Khakis!
+Malaquias Alfaro Not really. If you have the opportunity buy a charcoal grey or black suit, it is very versatile and will you serve on many other occasions. If this is no option: the trousers should be dark grey. Wear a white shirt and a black tie (a navy tie might look better but the black tie is more appropriate for a funeral... remember usually the silk facings on a night blue tuxedo are black, not blue). And wear black leather shoes, no brown, and never sneakers.
I am using everything you have post on you tube thank you for changing my with men fashion!
+Darren Morrison That's good to hear! We have a lot more in store for you, that you can be sure of :)
Wonderful... Congrats... What is it that I see on 4:05... Is that a blazer, is it the lining? Interested in the burgundy with the stripes. Does it have a name? Is it a fabric? What to do? Thanks...
Great video. but what about shoes???
Can I wear a sneakers with a blazer for example ?
Hi there, what do you think about navy blazer and black shoes?
thanks for your amazing videos!
You changed your hair. Looks good though
I have a Dunhill blazer that I bought in about 1985. It has the four brass buttons surgeons cuffs which as you know, actually unbutton and therefore can be turned up, giving the fexibility needed from time to time. However the shoulder pads which gave a stronger sillouette in those days are somewhat out of fashion today. Can I remove the shoulder pads to modernize this garment? This particular blazer was over 1000.00 in 1985,so perhaps I should leave it as it is- or should I just buy a new one?
Is blazer usually a little bitter bigger than suit? Not so streamlined nit slim... a little baggy. Is that true?
Classic blazer is ready to wear, so it look baggy, but no bespoke blazer
dude your hair looks waaaay better this way
Thanks you
Should a gentleman wear a pocket square with a blazer?
Hey Raphael, how do you feel about Ledbury clothes???? I'm thinking about purchasing a blazer from them!
Nice hair cut! You look young!
Dear Mr. Schinder,
My blazer has a button hole in each lapel. Can I put a boutonniere on either side or only the left side?
Thank you!
+JuliusCaesar500 yes. though most people wear it on the left
Can anyone recoomend places to buy really bold bright blazers?
I love the boat racing look - especially the multicolored stripes.
No one seems to stock them! Only shade of blue and grey, (yawn!).
Thanks!
Yes thank you very much for me
I found a pre-90's Burberrys' Navy double breasted blazer for less than $200, Gentleman's Gazette, was this a lucky find for me, or what?
So I'm a senior high school student and I like to look nice when I go to school but is wearing a blazer suit too much?
Yes, just sitck with a casual shirt and jeans with a more casual jacket
Are gold buttons outdated?
Where can I purchase the blazers in this video? :)
That dude looks uncannily like Mr. Toomy from Steven King's "The Langoliers". :O
Yes sir
I got the brass buttons replaced with plastic on mine because I didn't want the military look
Watch at ×1.25
~Raphael, you have given us such incredible advice and information, so the comment I am going to make is stated with respect.
~That haircut does not suit your face and head▬perhaps it is the volume on top that is the offender. There is an element of slightly more youthfulness, but at the cost of your style which is always at 100%.
~Just a suggestion from an anonymous youtuber ahaha, but I am sincere. Thank you for this incredible video that I've only seen 1 other video on youtube address, about the proper points of a blazer. I believe it was Lord Willy's?
~I love the yellow knit tie! Very Unique.
~R.
+- Rossetti Thanks for the feedback
Thank you good sir. :)
How can i find blazer with white stripes, like mafia worn?
so i bought a vintage brown velvet chalk striped jacket because i really couldnt resist but i'm looking for tips with what to wear like without tie and waistcoat any tips?
It sounds very 1970s to me, maybe grey trousers or mid-blue jeans, brown Chelsea boots and a rollback jumper ?
Someone has been watching Peaky Blinders a lot lately! ;)
Great video as usual sir.....but this hairstyle doesn't suits u.....it affects the gentleman image of yours.....keep it simple & do you recommend Black Blazer? I think it really looks nice......!
+Mandeep Baweja i wondering the same question, what about black blazer? ant help?
+Mandeep Baweja Never black for anything but eveningwear and the most formal suits. (And casual clothing, of course.) It looks all too much like a suit jacket, and you will probably have a hard time finding blazers (or sport jackets) in black anyway. The only exception I might grant is an unstructured, corduroy or velvet jacket for that somewhat scruffy, creative look.
Olli what about a little check patterned black blazer?
If the pattern is prominent and casual (i.e. it doesn't just look like a charcoal suit jacket from a few feet away) then sure!
Olli 😇
what is up with the sound ?
So if if understand your video on the blazer jacket it is more of a casual piece and not to be worn at a more formal event? thanks for the information.
+Frank Gadson Yes, it is casual, at least more casual than a suit. However, given the casuality of todays society the outfit composed of a blue blazer and chinos is called a "Californian Tux" and worn on quite formal events. This might not obey the strict rules of traditional dressing, but it is a fact. If you are in doubt: a suit (with a tie and preferably a pocket square) is always the safer way to go. You feel maybe overdressed, but if you want to wear "correct" dress then you are almost necessarily overdressed because of the casualness in clothes today. If you feel uncomfortable because of this fact, then dress casual. If you can bear it and wear traditional clothes well, then don't worry about being overdressed. You are not overdressed, in fact the majority of people is underdressed. And you are a warrior fighting for the survival of elegant attire...
+Wolf0067 Hey! Nice comment! I share the same point of view: Majority of people are underdressed. One does not have to feel bad for dressing well.
Nice shirt. Turnbull & Asser?
Why not do a slickback?
+Jonathan Bissoo Interesting suggestion. We'll see what Mr. Schneider has to say about that.
Nice Video! Where are you actually from?
+benedikt rsz The answer is here czcams.com/video/DvDLZ9vNcxY/video.html
What area/region of the US does Sven come from? I'm asking because I don't recognize his accent. I'm pretty new to the channel so I'm not familiar with his background yet.
He is from Germany. First video of his channel is about his background.
very nice haircut.
Even after this video, I am still unclear as to what exactly differentiates a blazer from a blue sport jacket. I had taken it to be the metal buttons, but you grant alternatives.
Take SuitSupply, for instance. The exact same Havana model is available as a suit jacket, sport jacket and (at least by your specifications here) a blazer, so it cannot be only a matter of cut. Indeed, I have a brown checkered suit and an almost-navy suit that I also use as separates (thanks to unstructured shoulder, patch pockets), and the blue one has slightly contrasting, brown buttons (probably deliberately so as to be subtle enough for a suit but not look off separately). So is that blue jacket, when I'm not using it with the trousers, a blazer or a sport jacket? Not that I really care about semantics, and no doubt there is great cultural and historical variation in the terminology, but I am curious!
Or in other words, what makes the casualish jacket you are wearing a blazer rather than a blue sport jacket?
+Olli Watch it again. Contrasting buttons in combination with navy make it a blazer. SuitSupply is not interested in the proper use of custume history terms, they just want to sell more stuff, no matter what it is called.
Gentleman's Gazette
Ok; so you would say contrasting buttons are the definitive marker, regarldess of cut. In SuSu's defense, they don't call their products blazers or sport jackets, just vaguely "jackets". The distinction was mine: if being navy with contrasting buttons is enough to make a blazer, then that exact same cut can be a suit jacket, blazer or sport jacket depending on fabric alone. Which is cool, if that's really the case.
But this raises the question whether there is such a thing as a navy sport jacket at all. It's a general rule of thumb of sport jackets, too, that the buttons will be more noticable than in suits (where they generally aim to be invisible). The view that swapping your white mother-of-pearl buttons for something subtler would turn the exact same piece from a histrorically proper blazer into a sport jacket is a little iffy.
Then there is the matter of color. You yourself mention traditional solid alternatives to navy (bottle green, red), and sometimes the distinction between sport jackets and blazers is made based on whether it's patterned. What of a solid gray flannel jacket, then? Certainly not a historical "sport coat" in the sense checkered tweed is, and semantically/in register closer to the blazer, but not within its typical definition.
If historicaly accuracy is our goal, I don't think it's very descriptive to call an unstructured cotton jacket with patch pockets a blazer in the same sentence as a double-breasted, brass-buttoned worsted wool blazer with a crest. Blazers are traditionally considered more formal that sport jackets.
Ultimately, I think we should admit the distinction between blazers and other sport jackets is fuzzy and partly unnecessary. There are some archetypal jackets that are readily identified as blazers, but for the most part the general term "jacket", "sport jacket" or "separate jacket" is adequate and more descriptive of the current variety of jackets and how they are used.
Sorry for the monster post! I don't mean to discredit anything you said, it is just that this specific question of semantics has bothered me for a while and I have failed to find an adequate answer in any authrotitative source. That terminology varies between languages, between UK and US, and between different periods, doesn't make it any easier.
Hello! Can you please tell me where the shirt your wearing is from ?!
I have a shirt just like that
It's absurd to say that centre vented blazers are only for horseback riding. That being said in the same video where you give the okay to wearing jeans with a blazer makes no sense. If centre vents are only for equestrians, then jeans are only for miners.
+Daniel Iger Historically, center vents came from horseback riding and they serve no other purpose. I suggest you spend some time studying costume history if you don't believe it.
+Daniel Iger Historically, center vents came from horseback riding and they serve no other purpose. I suggest you spend some time studying costume history if you don't believe it.
+Gentleman's Gazette No, you see, you missed what I said there.
+Daniel Iger Ideally double vent looks best and doesn't bunch up when your hands are in your pockets, but a center vent is fine too. It's a matter of preference for sure.
Daniel Iger I like centre vent. Seems less fussy and I'm slim and don't have a large rear!
god this is mr raphael sure while every thing is a gradual process
Can I wear a bow tie with a blazer?
If it not glossy satin bowtie you can
my Ermenegildo Zegna $3200 blazer has black buttons... did he screw up?? ;)
Good tips. But What's with "advanced dressers" and "beginner dressers"? Good outfits are good outfits, so are ugly outfits, regardless how "advanced" you are.
I'm going to use the example of the brightly coloured blazers, while you can pull them off and they can look very dapper, they will not get nearly as much use as a plain navy blazer, so a beginner with not many fine clothes should invest in the Navy first wheras an advanced dresser would already own that so they could start to expand their blazer choice into the more bold
That double breasted blazer is worn by veterans of the royal tank regiment
if i were you, i would have shortened my videos to 5 minutes each!
1st
Blazer with jeans is the worst!
The only way I'd wear a blazer is if I had one made Ralph Lauren style, to wear with jeans and a white dress shirt. Blazers are too steeped in club/activity tradition to bother making it seem street worthy. There are way to many great sport coats out there to choose from rather than trying to work this fashion dinosaur into your wardrobe
+huberfloover We certainly respect your opinion. To each his own, I guess. :)
go back to that hair style.
Horrible hairstyle. Looks anti-intellectual.
you speak too slowly
You type too much