Restoring a 1977 Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 09. 2015
- I picked up an old, non-running Troy-Bilt Horse tiller for $200. This video is dedicated to the restoration of that tiller and as an encouragement for anyone wondering if he should fix his old Horse. The answer is YES!!! These tillers are built to last! By all means, get that tiller running again!
I have acquired a 1981 4 speed Troy bilt Horse tiller from a very old man who bought it new and restoration is underway , great job brother ! 👍
I have a 1979 6 HP Horse that I purchased from a local dealer new, and it surely is a work horse. I used it to till my backyard for a large vegetable garden, and I started doing custom garden tilling for the next 10 years. and yes it is still running great.
The Horse is definitely my favorite by far. Just put it in the ground, and let the weight do the rest.
My grandfather has the same one except it's rustler and it's stuck in the dirt. I really wanna revive it for my first try at restoring an old machine!
I can't begin to tell you how much you should do it! I have my Grandpa's original Troy-Bilt Pony purchased in the early 1970's. It's still used today! These machines are just workhorses. Good news is these machines are tough and durable, so you should have no problem getting it to run again!
nice job.
My 1981 Troybuilt horse just had new tires and wheels, 242.00 dollars!
Awesome job on the resto. One thing you might want to consider is adjusting the governor so that it doesn't rev so high under no-load. Those engines have a tendency to come apart under high revs. Beautiful machine though. I just picked up an old horse from a barn pick. It has the 7hp kohler and the hiller attachment. Can't wait to dig into it.
Thanks for the kind words! Yeah, she did rev a bit high, but the video actually makes it sound worse than it was (sensitive microphone!). The belt slips a bit here in this video, too, but I changed that after the video, and it tore through the garden without slipping after this! I ended up selling it to a happy new owner! On to the next!
I have an '85 6HP Horse that is a PTO model. I can detach the tiller and 'plug in' a wood splitter. Both OEM from TroyBilt made in the USA. With this COVID-19 thing I've decided it's time to put in a garden again after a 3-4 year hiatus. Hope to pull it out tomorrow and see how difficult it will be to get it running after sitting for that long. The wood splitter worked like a champ - 2 speed pump that'll split even the must gnarly apple or hickory.
I am your biggest fan! It may need a carb cleaning or diaphragm on the side of the carb. But other than that, check the oil and go! I have a very large garden this year! Loooooove those home-grown strawberries!
You got a great deal. I have the same exact model and I love it. I'm having to do some maintenance on it like rebuild the carb, change the fuel line and put in a filter. Also I have to change the gear oil in both the tine axle and transmission.
If that's yours in your pic, then nice find! What you described is routine maintenance. Nice job for doing it. Don't be like me and replace the gear oil without making sure the wheel seals are sealed! I bought a Horse, filled it up with brand new gear oil (it was very low), only to find it on the garage floor in the morning. So THAT'S why it was so low! But, yes, the Horse in my opinion just cannot be beaten in the garden. It LOVES to till.
Yeah thanks. I just changed the transmission oil today with 140 wt. I repaired a flat in the left tire. I had a tube installed. Changed the seal since it was leaking. I still need to re clean the carb and install new fuel line with a filter and pet cock valve. My tank has crud in it so I am going to remove and wash it out with scalding hot water and soap. My question is how do you change the fluid to the rear axle where the tines are. I see only the fill hole plug. Is there something that I'm missing?
The fluid in the tines section gets its fill from the main transmission body fill. That is all connected (via a long shaft). So if you fill the gear oil properly in the center of the tiller, the tines will also get their fill, as well. Of special note, there are also two more seals behind the tines (a bit larger than the wheel seals). These sometimes leak slowly, but not nearly as bad as the wheel seals.
Thanks, They are not leaking as of yet. I had the tiller tilted forward till I was sure all the gear oil was out. It was so thick. Almost like chocolate syrup. But I admit I was way over the 30 hour limit of when I should have changed it. I love my tiller. Its strong and well built. Everything works great. I just need to install the fuel filter and petcock shut off for the fuel. And I'll be good.
I have a late 70's troybilt horse with a Kohler 7hp motor I'm getting back in service, any words of wisdom or suggestions, best place to find parts.
I just got the motor and drive working on my horse, but the lever to engage the clutch for the tiller will not move. I was hoping once it was rolling, the lever would free up, but nope. Any ideas??????
I see you used the 2x paint and the color looks about - do you remember what color red it was?
Great buy, and nice job on restoring. Looks like most comments come from Horse owners, so welcome the comments without offense. Most are ones from experience and knowledge. I love to feed on other's know how and experience to get better at what I do.
I absolutely agree. I'm not perfect, and my restoration probably isn't, either! But it turned a hunk of metal into a fine tiller, and I'm happy for that! The carb was actually replaced with a new one by a previous owner, but I don't doubt that it was running high! Thanks for the kind words.
My dad worked at a local scrap yard and someone brought one of these in and said that he was tired of messing with it. Wouldn't run. Similar situation, only mine had a blocked fuel line. Fixed that, changed plug, fluids, tines and belts. She runs like a champ after setting the points. Mine is a 1978 Kohler 7hp. We got it for $45!
I love stories like these! They are REALLY beautifully-engineered machines built to last. Just change the oil, replace the belts, make adjustments, change the tire and tine seals (common leak points), and these machines will give you a lifetime of service!
Hi, Great video...I just started my second Horse restoration. The second is in much better shape than the first one I restored, except for the wheels being rust welded to the axles. Happy gardening.....ps. Dash 8 pilot I see......I always thought that turboprops are the only way to fly.
+Stephen Festus Thanks. I've actually picked up four more Troy-Bilts since this video! One Horse, two Pony's, and an old Junior. I just love them. Four out of the five didn't run...now all five do! I'm tilling up my Dad's garden with the two Horse's this week, including the one in this video. And as far as those wheels stuck on the axles? That's a Troy-Bilt given !!! Those wheels LOVE securing themselves to the axles! They are so hard to get off. Good luck with the hammer!
Man excellent job on this rebuild. I've been wanting to do mine but nervous. But this video helps. Mine wouldn't be a garage queen either, I'd have to complete it between fall and spring planting season. Did you paint the tiller assembled?
Thanks for the kind words. I enjoyed the process along the way! And, yes, as you can see in the pictures in the garage, I just covered everything I didn't want red paint on and painted! So it's not a "professional" restoration, but it sure came out looking nice.
next time, try mowing tall plants first, THEN till. It will keep your tines from clogging and it will perform much better.
BETTER YET ,TILL WHEN THE CORN STOCKS ARE STILL GREEN.
Who wants to do two steps?! :) I agree! My dad actually mows in the fall now and tills in the spring. I like to just go at it and see how much she can do. Yes, I have been on my knees unclogging the tiller a time or three.
Seal Kits Direct , 22815 E.l Camino Real, Santa Margarita CA 93453 for seals. They sell on eBay, too.
YOU 'da MAN!
Fixing to do the same thing on a Dec 76/Jan 77 Horse. You got a DEAL for $200. Mine also had no spark and a rat's nest inside (literally). But the wires were find so I concluded it was the condensor/points/magnetron and wasn't worth the $$/time to repair an old worn engine. I got a new one for it and gonna swap it out and replace the seals today.
Thanks for the video!!! Loved to see the old horse running again.
The engine doesn't do the tilling, so it doesn't matter what you put on there, as long as it spins! I know lots of guys are going to Harbor Freight engines and having great luck there. Very economical, too. And thanks for the kind words. Like you, I watched videos before I started my restoration! Just needed a little encouragement!
I did the same, put one of those Harbor Freight Predator 212s on, only $119.95 + tax new!
David Chambers should have searched for an atom electronic ignition
I'm about to put my 6 HP Horse back in commission after it's sat in the garage for 20 years, so this video is very timely. And I know we have mice in the garage, so...
Hope you fare better than me! These older engines are beasts! Usually it's just a carb cleaning, oil change, and possibly a new diaphragm on the side of the carburetor (VERY common!).
Thanks for the great video what paint did you use?
You need to tighten the belt. I could see the tines stop turning while you were tilling.
You are exactly correct. I actually replaced the belt with new (I think it took two, actually). Good eye!
Where do you score the old replacement seals for the axle ? Mine is leaking like a pig and my local repair shop guys were to lazy to track down the parts i needed and fix it for me even though that was what i was willing to pay them to do.
Go to your local bearing house, they'll have 'em. 1 1/2 inch o.d., 1 inch i.d. is what most of them are. Real cheap too. : )'
Yup, your local lawnmower repair shop or even eBay. Very cheap ($6 each or so). Just follow the directions for putting them in, and they will last you another 20 years!
Seal Kits Direct , 22815 E.l Camino Real, Santa Margarita CA 93453 for seals. They sell on eBay, too.
I ordered and had them replaced and now my Tiller i scored for $250 with a new Honda Motor on it purrs like a kitten. It would actually be foolish to purchase a new Troybilt when so many are out there that just require a little help.
Great video, but I have a question for all of you Troy Bilt horse restorers/gardeners. The pulleys on the 1982 horse I'm working on are 2 sets of 2 different sizes arranged reverse of each other. Did the previous owner put a lower pulley on backwards or does the '82 just use 1 belt with the ability to switch between hi speed/hi torque??? HELP!
one belt but with hi/low range ability.
Sorry for the super late response! The answer depends upon your year. Some tillers came with high and low speed pulleys on the same gear. You just simply moved it forward or back for the desired speed. But another likely answer is you may have one of the two-belt pulley tillers. Instead of one drive belt, the tiller actually used two! Not as in forward and reverse (like on the Pony), but actually two side-by-side forward belts!
You should always keep control of a tiller, for safety. And you wont have to restore it again.
Two questions: what kind of paint did you use and is the paint durable?
I used Rustoleum 2x spray paint. Yes, spray paint! It's very durable, but do small coats! The minute you go over something that you think is lightly, it will run. So just wait, and let it dry. I'll say it again....let it dry! This paint is sticky if you don't let it cure. It's not hard to do, but I can be impatient just like the rest. But it's a beautiful and durable coat.
It should only be run with one belt
The reason there is 2 sets of pulleys is for 2 different gear ranges high and low.
This depends upon the year. Some years it did have a high and low range. But other years you actually were required to use two belts for one speed. It used to be Part 1128 for the set.
Anyone know how I can connect the wires on my tiller whit 8hp engine (starter switch,to solenoid and stator and coil)thank you in advance
I just bought 2 TB Work Horse tillers .Ithink one is pony ,not sure . They gave me both for $150.00 The horse fired up after i cleaned the carb . I think both are in the 1970s era ,im not sure . Does anybody know where i can find model no for these tillers?The plate on the pony is missing on the engine shroud And the work horse has no numbers on the engine shroud .
Will the numbers on the transmission or pto help me ?
BTW Great restoration in your tiller
Thanks! You scored a great deal! The easiest way to tell the difference is looking at the width of the till. Obviously, the Horse is bigger. Also, a tell-tale mark is the twist-knobs to adjust the handles on the Horse or to rotate the handles side-to-side. The Horse serial number will be stamped on the cast-iron axle housing near the wheel shaft. If it's a Pony, look on the top of the transmission tube in front of the tilling area. They are wonderful tillers. My grandpa, Dad, and now me all use them! One Pony has been in the family since the early 1970's! Still works great.
@@dashtrash571 thank you for the information .This helps me greatly .
I need to replace/repair that same gas tank on mine. Anyone have ideas?
Sscene a video where a guy put a bunch of bus in the tank with alittle gas and then he straped it on his 4 wheeler tire lifted and run it for 45 mins it came out like new.
what size drive belts go on one of these fine tillers. I put two 22 inch Kevlar belts on mine and they slip while tilling.
Depending upon your model, you actually may require two belts. Do you have an Owner's Manual by chance? I can't remember the exact size, but I think it had a 1/2" in there. Original two-belt part number was 1128.
My used a GW 9230 or equivalent I hope that help you 👍🏻
I have a 78 horse II. it calls for 1 22" belt. I replaced the old one with a new 22" belt. However it slipped as well. I went to NAPA and picked up a 21 1/2" performance belt. Right at 13$ . Thats all it needed! Reverse wlrks greqt too.
I had 2 I Troy-Bil t tillers workhorse I've restored one in the process of restoring the other The first one I've done sold I'm sorry to say didn't really know what I had when I sold it
Oh, no! Sorry to hear that! The good news is that these do come up for sale every now and again! The big gardens are so uncommon anymore! As for me? I have strawberries, squash, corn, cucumbers, and on and on this year! You just can't beat backyard gardening!
@Maddog worker, you will love it!
Where did you get the air filter canister at
You just have to search by engine model number or a place like eBay for new old-stock. This canister was already on it when I purchased the tiller. He had a new carb, too.
Where are you getting your parts for your tillers? I'm needing a new fuel tank. Please help.
Best option for fuel tanks is eBay. The original ones (metal) are on there but often in poor condition (rusted inside). The plastic ones show up every now and again and are excellent replacements!
Years ago I replaced the original metal fuel tank with a plastic one. No more carb problems ! Had continuous problems prior.
I have a problem getting the wheel out, I want to replace the tires
i managed to get one wheel off but had to replace the tire on the other one while the wheel was still on it. believe me i tried but there was no budging on the one side.
I am late to see this, but you have absolutely found the eighth wonder of the world: how Troy-Bilt tiller tires are seemingly welded to the axle. Trust me, I have spent many a time trying to make sense of it. But when they are stuck, it could be a lost cause! I have had luck with DAYS of penetrating oil, but I have also had to cut the tire and rim with a sawz-all! No joke! I had a Troy-Bilt wheel puller custom-built due to this very issue. You are not alone!
@@paulk5311, I know the feeling!
How can you tell what year it is?
You have to look at the serial number on the flat cast iron area above the tire (I think left side). Then compare it to the range built in a certain year with the .pdf file here: www.mytractorforum.com/214-tiller-talk/153157-troy-bilt-tiller-serial-number-list.html. Hope this helps!!! For example, if your number is 751456 then it would be built between numbers 740000 and 760000. Make sense?
Thanks for the info!! Mine is a 1991
@@fracturedhearts3734 mines a 1984
MrCrash698 cool.
Did you put new tires and where did you get them
Ebay 242.00 dollars!
You missed the gas tank, is it plastic from the factory? I thought they were metal. maybe that was the kohler engine?
Mine was metal (76/77 horse), tecumseh engine (6hp).
Like you, that gas tank drove me nuts after I painted the tiller. It's not original, as the originals DID come with metal tanks. Most have since rusted out. You can still buy metal ones, but the previous owner put on this plastic one which faded to the color it is now. I debated replacing it with new, but I left it on. And, yup, it drives me nuts!!!
Krylon Fusion red will bind right to the plastic and hold up pretty well. I use it on my old vintage motocross dirt bikes with plastic tanks.
What horse power engine is that?
This Tecumseh has a 6HP engine. Some came with 8HP Kohler's or I think 7 HP Briggs and Stratton's. The electric start was also an option.
I hate to say it but that's not the original engine. A 1977 HH60 would have points ignition. Yours has Solid State which didn't appear until the mid 80's. That engine has been replaced.
I'm not sure if the engine was replaced or just the ignition. But good eye! The previous owner had installed a new carb, new plastic gas tank, new muffler, and new electronic ignition, too! I think the engine block was actually orginal.
Sounds like you're over-speeding the engine.
I think that has been the consensus. Live and learn. :) Thanks for the good eye! Ears?!
Doesn't look like the original gas tank.
It's not. The originals were made of metal and prone to rust over 40 years. So while it was "restored," reason dictated the use of the new plastic tank. Obviously, this tank has faded in color just a bit!
@@dashtrash571 no big deal....still a nice roto tiller!!!!