Polaris Mikuni Oil Injection Pump - How to Check and Prime
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- čas přidán 14. 04. 2022
- This shows how to check your 2-stroke oil injection pump for proper performance. I also show how to prime the line so you dont starve your engine of oil after a rebuild, pump replacement, or after your oil tank ran dry.
I've always mixed mine and just tolerated the smoke. Thanks for keeping this simple. Good video content and quality.
Rarely do they fail and they're designed to go full flow if they do ,dirty, clogged lines and no maintenance is the main reason for oil starvation issues, these pumps have been used on snowmobiles for 50 years without issues.
Great video. Trouble shooting my two stroke Polaris four wheeler (older model). Still need to check compression, but this is my co-suspicion of what’s causing it not to start.
Was working great after a tune up (carb/filters/etc) but died suddenly and just won’t quite turn over. Updating the throttle assembly, getting a compression tester, and exploring the oiler.
I’m a rookie by industry standards but have scored a lot of wins getting this thing running and having fun learning along the way.
Hopefully when I get into mine it is designed and behaves relatively similarly.
Oil pump would not cause the engine to not start. If the pump was malfunctioning or had a dry line after tune up the straight gas condition could certainly score a piston to the point of not running
Thanks! Made a similar setup for a slightly different mikuni oil pump for my jet ski.
I'm digging into a '97 Polaris Indy Trail, first start since 2014 fired right up but smokes like you wouldn't even believe. Injection pump could be dumping the oil in unmetered, rings shot, hard to tell on this unit. Some heat cycles will tell if the rings come around I suppose
Thanks, it's hard to find good information on these pumps
Great video thanks !!!
Thnaks for making this video
Thanks man
Discontinued? It looks incredibly similar to the pompa olio miscelatore used on the Piaggio Ape 50 Mix. I have one of these Piaggio vehicles and the pumps do fail. Mine stopped working and seized the engine. Annoyongly, I've been taking the old (now replaced) pump apart and it seems to be working and I can't see anything actually worn or otherwise wrong with it, though I've only half understood it. The Italian websites don't help as most Ape owners are not engineers at heart and prefer to premix their fuel.
Actually, I think I have found the cause of failure. Assuming my Piaggio Ape pump (marked TO6 on the cable thing and 03H on the body) is functionally similar to yours, I hope my findings may be of interest.
It's a steel piston pump with (assumed) one-way valve(s) to direct the flow from inlet to outlet. The piston has a cam on one end and a small spring on the other and as the piston rotates it is forced back and forth. A small hole in the piston allows it to suck and deliver on the relevant ports. This actipn means it slides across the worm-screw teeth as it pumps. Eventually, any worm-screw wear-resultant swarf may jam the piston which only has 1-2mm of travel and it stops pumping oil without warning. The spring driving it can be pushed by finger pressure, so it wouldn't take much to jam it.
You probably could take it apart as follows and clean it as a preventative measure and I think I will do that in future:
With the Mikuna script upright (hose connexions on the left), undo the 2 screws holding the almond-shaped cover plate and remove.
Note the position of and remove the internal pin which is probably in the hole nearest the shaft of what looks like (but isn't) a butterfly valve and it serves the purpose of stopping said shaft from coming out in normal circumstances.
Press the piston (cam) in against its internal spring and withdraw the "butterfly valve" shaft together with the external spring.
Press the piston again and withdraw the worm-screw shaft (the one driven by the engine). The piston will now start to spring towards you a little more but you may need to carefully withdraw it with pliers without scratching it. Alternatively, you may prefer to remove the clover-leaf shaped cover and push the piston out from the back. There is a small pin that engages into a recess in the back end of the piston and bears against the clover-leaf-shaped cover. The other end of the pin has a circlip and around the pin a small screw pushes the piston against its cam.
Reassemble in reverse order. It actually is quite easy.
I wouldn't worry too much about seal availability. The external seal that is most critical is the cloverleaf one, but it could easily be replaced by some kind of sealant if push came to shove. I would imagine the 9.5/16/4 shaft seal on the drive (worm-screw) shaft could be found from any decent bearing dealer and, in any case, withdrawing the shaft oughtn't damage the seal. And the rest seem to be boring old O rings and relatively unimportant.
Wouldn't Adding pre mix gas to a oil injection system foul yours plugs ?
Thank you for the video. I was thinking of deleting my oil injection pump because the machine is 1996 xpolere .old 🤣 . But it looks like not much can go wrong with this style pump, maybe a cracked line .and if I was to mix the oil and gas I'm sure it would smoke like a pig at idle.
If an oil pump was bad on my 2 stroke snowmobile how long would I be able to ride until the motor seized? I just rode over the weekend for about an hour with no problems ripping pretty hard but im worried because my oil light is on with a full tank of oil.
Hard to say, but if your oil pump stopped completely I wouldn't think it would last that long. Two stroke oil lights are typically oil level lights like a gas gauge. They don't indicate pressure or function. Check to see if the oil level float is stuck or is the switch is bad
@@mbakken11 thank you bro 🤘🏻