How To Skim Coat A Concrete Patio - Pour Concrete Surface
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- If your patio, driveway, or other concrete slab is falling apart and losing its appeal then you need to give it a facelift. Pouring a skim coat over the surface is exactly what your concrete needs. It is pretty simple to do and can be done in a day's time.
Take a look at this video to see how it is done and how you can do it yourself in only 1 day! Check out the material list below and make sure you have everything you need. If not, take advantage of the special offers below!
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Concrete Float
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Concrete Broom
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Extension Handle
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Wheelbarrow
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ebay.us/79IalE
Concrete Trowels
ebay.us/vJflwe
Concrete Float
ebay.us/CiEQIw
Concrete Broom
ebay.us/BRPS5t
Push Broom
ebay.us/UGhRlf
Extension Handle
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Kneeling Boards
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Mortar Mix
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Portland Cement
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You can always pressure wash and etch the surface with a acid and h20 mix . Also I remember back in the day when I was getting taught the excellent field of tile, the old man would mix up what he called a slosh or a slurry which is Portland and glue or water mixed sorta like a batter and slop it all around. Helps with bonding, wow man the old school days of tons of dry pack mix with 3 guys 1 raking and 2 turning. 3 to 1 mix all day for 12 13 hours we moved over 31 tons of sand one day never forget we was sore lol
Yes, that would be another good solution!
That’s the way to do it. At a minimum, the guy should have dampened the existing concrete to allow the new concrete to bond better. But you’re right, a Portland slurry painted on first would increase the bond between old and new. They also sell bonding agents by the gallon for this type of application.
You should've told people to use concrete bonding agent so the new skim coat bonds to the old. Less chance of separation.
Yes, that is a good point.
and i'd suggest skim coating over a damp surface for the same reason
Yes, that would work well.
Or make sure your base concrete is soaking wet. If it doesn't absorb water it needs to be etched to open the pores so you will have fusion between the old and the new. If you pour mortar on top of dry concrete have a dry layer between because the old concrete will absorb the water. Useing an cureing additives or bonding agents would help with this. But the principal is the same. That dry layer will be weak because of lack of hydration and any cracking will result in delamination.
That was my first thought about the bonding agent most of the material that's out there will specifically let you know if they're compatible.. I'm guessing for the simple reason that they can only guarantee their product although wouldn't imagine it would hurt if you applied it and maybe smooth out or maybe roll with a roller brush that way the milk wouldn't take too long to dry before applying product. . Anyways good luck to whoever is attempting this for the first time ..lol ..I say always get a smaller bag if available that way you can use that as your trial run just to get the feel for the product because they're all different and oh so pricey..lol
Power wash 1st everyone .. Then roll on concrete bond then make it loose amd use a magic trowel with pole no hand trowel .. Is easier
Awesome!
It won't work. Don't mislead people. It's not a moral way to help the community. This doesn't work. Resurfacer has special bonding agents and polymers to ensure it doesn't crack and even that stuff cracks at times so power washing isn't going to make it work sorry. Sorry tried it.
Good tip thanks!
Thank you. I am doing this and it saved me about 12k in contractor fees.
Awesome!
This is the video i was looking for
That’s great!
Nice video. Very helpful.
Glad you thought so!
Basically this is a bricklayers mix for parging and chimney caps.
It's a good mix.
Thanks for this video, AND replying to as many comments as possible. That is commendable. Since 3 years have passed, maybe a quick update on the finish?
Thank you! I try to stay as active as possible on the channel! Unfortunately, I’ve moved away from this house so I don’t know what it looks like today.
Thank you for this. I've literally been looking everywhere for an answer as to whether I can use mortar mix to no avail. I came across you by accident weeks later.
That’s awesome!
Hope you like and subscribe!
I did my concrete a week ago and there was lines from the float and rain drops so I used the grinder on it and its brown just under the top just a 1/8 down they was calling for a clear 2 weeks then it changed the morning we poured it been raining every day at night even the night we poured it put big drop holes everywhere on it i may try this to clean it up. thanks for sharing
Yes, a skim coat over the top could be a good solution for you.
Mix mortar and concrete. Your advice saved my porch resurface project. I mixed Quickcrete S Mortar with Resurface Concrete. Thus far so good. Do you have a video on repairing basement cinder blocks that mover away from the lower block that connects to the concrete floor.
That’s great to hear!
Currently no video on the blocks.
Thanks for the video, sharing your knowlege I learned a few things. I do a Portland, (Sika) Bonding agent and Sand mix, which saves me thousands of dollars. I don't mind having to do it over in a few years if I have to. The cost for polymers , or a complete resurface with concrete are astronomical. My Driveway is 2,500 square feet, that takes about (4) #94 lbs bags of Portland alone. @ $15 each or ($60.00).
So you see, the cost is even less than concrete "stain" ($30 bucks a gallon + covers ~ 200 /ft 2), and you have to do 2 coats + and the stain will certainly wear off too.
A Portland thin-set mix is not a permanent fix. Just know its going to need maintenance, of course, concrete does need maintenance.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for sharing your insights!
Good work , Boss
Yeah.
nice video. I need to level a bathroom floor with 3/4 to 1 inch think cement/concrete slab. You mentioned mortar mix and plain Portland cement to add strength.
Which mortar mix would you recommend?. I found bought one bad of Sand mix, topping and bedding. It says on the bad that it's ideal for applications up to 2 inches thick but I'm not sure. I've never worked with cement/concrete before.
Excellent video. Thanks.
For leveling a bathroom floor you may want to call your local concrete distributor and ask for a floor leveling mix. They’ll ask you some questions about the project and then you can ask them what type of mix they have for the job.
If that doesn’t get you anywhere then I’d suggest using a mix with very little aggregate. Perhaps only Portland cement or type S mortar mix.
The other option would be to tile the bathroom floor and simply use extra tile mortar to level the floor.
Thank you for this video!
You’re welcome!
Try a tile fortified thin set. That stuff sticks better than just mortar. I’ve had pretty good luck with this. But it’s not a cure all or 100% fix. Has the ability delaminate I’m some climates.
Thanks for the tip!
Great. Im in Mn freezing winters. I have a old badly pited concrete driveway. I read that a skim primer is needed first. Any thoughts.
Please don’t. Thinset mortar isn’t intended for exposure or as a wear layer. The cellulose that allows it to retain water (which is why it bonds and allows you to adjust your tiles) will mean that it will hold extra water and break down early.
Fun fact, the first thinset mortar was made by adding sawdust to brick mortar. That should illustrate the problem with using it for concrete resurfacing.
I changed up to use Top'N Bond [$15 #40 lbs]. This stuff is a little expensive, but it has a ton of Bonding agent in it. You can even feather down to 1/16th inch. Dries pretty fast: 24 hours "walk on time", 48 hours "Drive on" time. I cant say enough good things about this product. It stands up to anything, and will last as long as any concrete. Note: if you have cracks, fill them first. Also - if you have deep cracks, they will surely wind up reflecting up. (That's not the products fault).
Those are some great tips. Thank you!
So it appears you are basically creating your own concrete minus the rocks. I have a concern of cracking/flaking in a fews years with temperature cycles. I'm going to try this method to overcoat my sidewalk, but add some concrete reinforcement fiber into the mix to add strength and hopefully prevent cracking. Thanks for sharing the info.
The higher ratio of Portland cement will help with your concern of cracking. As will the added fiber mesh.
Heavy duty work!! I
All that Portland gives it heavy duty strength.
@@HowToVideoChannel 😀👍
From all that I have researched you have found a combination of materials for less than pre made resurfacer cements. I want to also test with fibers for added strength and polymer.
Adding mesh or fibers will definitely help with surface strength.
Yes, you can use a bonding agent and roll out a mesh on top. This helps the entire surface stay together and remain strong per square inch. I bet that there is a polymer you can add to the mix to make it more water proof.
All you need is Portland cement, sand and acrylic polymer..1 part cement to 3 parts sand (good clean sand) and mix with polymers..NOT straight water.
Bond coat the surface with the same polymer...its not to.ensure bonding but to seal the surface from drawing all the moisture from resurfacer too fast and it will crack..
Main thing is surface prep..grind the surface do not acid wash unless you're 100% positive you remove all residue.
When you started spreading, it was obvious that ir was not completely mixed.
It is easier and you get a better mix if you and and mix a little at a time rather than all at once.
Concrete does continue to harden over time, but it takes 28 days (4 weeks) to reach design strength.
When using 3,000 psi concrete, the tests usually break at 2,700 or so after 14 days and 3,500 after 28. Our supplier doesn't want to replace their material for substandard strength, so they make sure the it breaks at higher than spec.
He didn't pour concrete....he used a mortar mix
Thanks for clarifying that 28 days = 4 weeks LOL
Thanks
Should you wet down the old survive with water ( damp with no standing water) before adding the new coat?
Yes
Mix all the dry mix before adding water
Thanks for you our input
Would this method work if say you need to add like 2inches to part of a driveway like an 4×8 section
It should.
I get the sense of reading some comments from guys who sell their overlay packages for $8-16 sqft, and all those custom premixes, like the stuff Laggari puts out, which looks really bad in my opinion. The Ardex and Skraffino stuff are pricey compared to this. I guess using mortar is the key to get the ultra fine sand/gypsum, which I think CURED gypsum is waterproof, isn't it? Maybe that is heat treated only? BUt Mortar plus portland, and maybe a polymer powder mix would be great for more waterproofing. I hear that basic self leveling cement like Sika IS a poly mix, and why its a self leveler, and can be used as a floor finish. Couple guys demo this and it looks sweet.
Yes, you are right on track!
👍👍👍👍👍👍 nice
Thanks
This works on winter ❄️ temperatures outdoor patio. Wisconsin. -20 ?
I would recommend pouring it in the winter. However, it should hold up to winter temperatures.
Will this work for a driveway? Would I have to add more mortar mix
Yes, I received an email from a guy who said he did this on his father's driveway 30 years ago and it is starting to crack now. He mentioned that he mixed 3 bags of regular mix and 1 bag of pure portland.
So we bought a house that has a painted concrete porch. It was not poured right 25+ years ago and doesn't drain correctly. Could I resurface over the paint and how would I re-level it? It hasn't settled, it just wasn't sloped correctly in the first place. Float it with a piece of wood along the front wall to provide the correct slope?
You could definitely pour over it with another layer. You’ll probably want to have a concrete mason come out and give you an estimate so you can pick his brain a little bit about your specific situation.
@@HowToVideoChannel Thank you!
What exactly is the Portland to morter ratio i should use and do i use straight mortar or mortar and sand mix
Put a couple shovel fills of Portland for each wheel barrow full of mix.
That's gonna have a nice hollow and crunchy sound to it when you walk around ....🤣🤣🤣 and maybe a few lines running through it after it cracks.....You should have primed the old slab.
It’s held up nicely over the years. Doesn’t look perfect, but it serves the purpose.
How do you know, if you moved away from the house and 'don't know what it looks like today' as per your previous comment?@@HowToVideoChannel
How about you stop treating this guy like he did something wrong?h can do whatever the hell he wants. Shut up and mind your own business.@@marcb2241
Good work looked nice
Thanks!
Should have spray lightly water before skim coat.
Yes, water helps it cure better.
This mix may crack later.its too thin to just mix traditional Portland cement. ( for very thin skimcoating of concrete the best product to use is " concrete resurfacer " its specifically made for very thin layers like 1/4 inch or less. Basic Portland cement morta is for thicknesses 1 inch or more...under 1 inch it may crack later
Thanks for the suggestion. So far, this is holding up pretty well. I'll look into concrete resurfacer.
@@HowToVideoChannel don’t listen to this guy. You never want to use mortar an inch thick. That’s not how it works. Portland is just fine.
Thanks!
Can I add keep adding to a low spot on my patio? maybe to 2 inches, let it dry, then resurface the patio?
Yes, you can do that. You'll be able to tell where you added the fill but it will work. Make sure to feather it out so that it's a little more blended.
that looks like the moon's surface now
Nice
Don't worry, he said it will dry and you can just brush it away. Lol
Maybe this could be done with just lime and sand, without any Portland. If for some reason using cement was undesirable.
It’s possible.
100% this will crack in cold climates the first winter. We have used this method on stoops and little patios and it cracks usually in the first winter def not good for drives.
Winters are tough on concrete.
Lots of people mix a thin Portland mix and paint their driveways every year or so to give a nice look and temporary repair to extend the life of their driveway without investing what can amount to a fortune into more elaborate fixes. Ya, they do! So many of you don't consider what the cost to the home owner will be.
That's a great idea to mix it into paint. Seems to me like it would be a great thing to do to a concrete block wall in your basement.
Concrete resurfacer you shoulda used its $44 a bag.it works miracles for very thin concrete resurfacing.try it
Thank you.
Would this work on an outdoor patio?
It sure would.
Did you wet your patio first? I've had better wetting the suraface first.
Yes, that way the concrete doesn't dry up too quickly.
will this cover cracks?
Yes
Can that also be used to fill in parts of a slab where there's some low spots where puddles form? Pour it over those areas and then pull the 2x4 over it to make it level?
Yes, however, the new concrete will be a different color.
Make sure you clean and score the existing concrete so that the new stuff can adhere. Then trowel it out sort of like Sheetrock mud when fixing a wall.
Bradley Jon they also make a self leveling mix.
I need to do the same exact thing, looking for an easy fix. Patch up some cracks and a low spot that builds puddles. Any advice would be great
Is wetting area optional?
It would be best to spray down the existing pad before spreading any new concrete.
All the dents and marks will broom off? That doesn't look like a finished surface. I guess I don't understand how to get a totally smooth surface like my driveway is now.
You would use a troweled finish instead of a floated and broomed finish.
Do you have an update video?
I don’t.
What kind of concrete did you use?
All Star - Green Bag
So basically 200lbs In the wheel barrel go ahead I'm listening....😂
Wheelbarrows are strong.
Danielle Gardner I’m sorry for your size
Dude when I was 16 I was wheeling redi-mix full wheelbarrows full for my Dads business those were more like 450-500 lbs
@@jeffp7776 I know you thought it might have been that Heavy
@@towdoctor670 a REAL contracts wheelbarrow has a capacity of 6 cubic feet. A cubic foot of concrete weighs 150 lbs +/- do the math.
a good idea , add it or not ?
Adding more portland will make the mix stronger.
Use a round nose shovel. Mich faster.
Sounds good!
Sorry this doesn't work. They're going to waste your money and it's going to crack a few days after you finish. The problem is it's not polymer modified and it's not designed for high strength at low thickness. Unfortunately there's no quick fix to concrete resurfacing you're going to have to pay the money for the bags but make for certain that the bags you buy are fairly soft and not hard. If they're hard then they're no good and pick a decent brand and stay away from Lowe's products
Thanks for the insight!
Sounds like a user malfunction to be honest
My old Croatian boss always had me first brush on Weldbond bonding glue to the old surface prior to top coating. Whether it was repairing broken steps or slabs, it always gave a great bond for the topping crete. 🤙
I'm pretty sure it would've been more efficient to just use a self leveler
Self leveler is a substrate that should not be used as a primary wear surface, so no it wouldnt have been better to use self lever
There are self levers on market that can be used as wear surface and are meant for it.
There is self leveling that is hard enough to be grounded so yes there is a strong enough topping
absolutely
@@diversify210 overruled. Self leveler has been used plenty to do just this. No dust comes up and has some waterproofing quality. I suspect that there is some polymers in self levelers, as there is some agent less dense than the cement that helps it level. ALL liquid solutions are self leveling, but you dont want it to run off if not contained..
Nice video, but that won't last long before cracks again
So far so good.
William Dubon yup 2...3 years...theres another type of concrete that has a polymer bled in it so it flexes...people use it for concrete counter tops it gives
Chip fix
@@miguelcastaneda7236 Cant you add a polymer powder to the mix?
Could you drive a car over this without it breaking apart? My 20x20 garage needs a quarter inch skim coat.
Yes, I received an email from a guy who said he did this on his father's driveway 30 years ago and it is starting to crack now. He mentioned that he mixed 3 bags of regular mix and 1 bag of pure portland.
@@HowToVideoChannelNot bad for 30 years! That's way more than you would expect before cracking.
mortar on the floor??
It works.
Benito Caspo 2
Sprinkle colorant on concrete skim
Nice.
Nice mess.
Yeah.
Do you use concrete bonding agent? Thoughts
It wouldn’t hurt.
Where are the stones?
recovering after their last concert
no aggregate. it is NOT concrete. it is skimcoat, applied for aesthetics, not structural use
I believe the Stones are on tour right now!😆
girdlestone mutambara Well, i KNOW Mick Jagger is recovering from heart surgery.
I believe the Stones are still hiding in the Beatles' shadows😆
It has simular consistancy of cow scutter
Looks like it
Looks like a peanut butter spread to me
That's alright.
Get some rapid set and be done with it
Yes, perhaps for a future video!
Why use mortar and not 100% portland cement ?
You could use 100% Portland if you’d like. The mortar mix has a little more flexibility to it.
I would of used a magnesium float on it not a hand trowel.
Yes, magnesium floats are much better.
Wheelbarrow, not wheel barrel. Nice job though!
Thanks.
I think the Americans call wheel barrows wheel barrels
Rough as a platt bridge
It's a rough floor.
It is not concrete...it’s a screed, concrete is a mixture of sand, cement and stone, this is called “aggregate “
Do you think a woman could do this job without hurting herself or does it take male strength?
I think a woman could do it without any issue. You'll want to have someone to help you though. It's a two-person job, whether men or women :)
A women could've done a better job than this clown with her eyes closed
@@MMGJ10 YOu know what...he fixed the patio spot, and it looks better than before. I think he could have gotten a slightly looser mix so he can trowel it better. His troweling is what he could improve on. But he is one of FEW people letting you know that you dont have to spend $50 a bag for overlay mix. His information is PRICELESS, and gives not only DIY folk, but many that get ripped off at $12sqft for something that can be done for $2-3 sqft. THATS the difference. SO WHAT it looks a bit rough. Sick of videos pushing product vs teaching material compounds.
Go at it girl, anything he can do you can do better!
Are you good on your knees?? If so, the answer is Yes.
I.... hope you got paid for this job lol
Nope.
looks like a wet mess
Only until it dries
@@HowToVideoChannel Then it's a dry mess
whats going on with all of the dents and knees marks it looks horrible
It's not perfect. Suits the purpose though.
Not going to hold
Maybe
No thanks...
No problem.
WHEELBARROW, not wheel barrel.
Yes
pretty rough looking,
Yeah, but it got the job done.
Nice vid but it's going to crack bro
Nah, that Portland will hold it together. Be perfect for a side patio or a dog kennel.
@@HowToVideoChannel right! if your not parking a truck on it, etc it should be fine!
@@chrisfry436 if you are parking a truck on it, mix it a bit dryer and replace most of your water with an acrylic fortifier. that should bring it up to spec.
Won’t last...
Still there today. May not last 40 years, but serves its purpose.
This will not last very long
Long enough.
That is as rough as a bears hole
I don't have any experience with a bear's hole.
Do you mean a sheep's hole because of the wool?
@@HowToVideoChannel The roughest part of a bear's hole must be in getting the bear's compliance😆
not what I would expect, but if it's good enough for you, then hey...
Good for a dog kennel.