Fox Factory Float DPX2 Evol 2020 Damper Air Can and Control Knobs Full Service Guide for beginners
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- This video is a detailed service guide for a Fox Factory Float DPX2 shock. It will guide you through the process of servicing the damper, the air can and the Compression and rebound knobs.
The DPX2 will require service every 100 - 150 hours or so, depending on th environments and conditions you ride in. It's a relatively easy service to perform. If you follow this guide and make sure to pay attention to some of the detail ex: removing the shims stack, not rushing the bleeding process, etc., I'm sure you can perform it with ease.
If this is your first time, watch the video 2 or 3 times in order to get used to the flow. Your first time will always be the longest. Make sure you start the job on a day when you're not pressed for time
As I mention in the video, the control knobs are optional IMO. Though not difficult, If you want to make the job quicker, you can skip them for every second service as long as your dial are working without issues.
As always, let me know if you have any questions in the comments section.
Chapter
00:00 Intro
01:19 Tool needed
07:35 Parts needed
08:52 Opening the shock
25:41 Disassembling the damper piston assembly and upper shaft
35:28 Servicing the Compression and rebound Dials
01:00:19 Reassembling the damper piston shim stack and shaft
01:07:37 Bleed process
01:39:03 Resembling the reservoir and filling it with air
01:46:09 Air can service
01:58:44 finalizing the service.
Needles for IFP air fill:
www.schmidtyracing.com/Nitrog...
FOX SHOX NITROGEN FILL PELLET 0.275 X 0.125 (Buy a few extra just in case something goes wrong)
www.probikesupply.com/collect... - Jak na to + styl
I recently found your videos. They are great.
Please make FULL service of new Fox Float X.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks or the comment. Float X is on the list. Next on the bench is the X2 👍
Few tips for eveyone that is going to do the service:
1) clamp the shock at the very end of vice - moving the shock to the side when bleeding the piggypack helps to get rid of bubbles
2) when taping the piggyback - use normal tape on the part where it touches the oil and use masking tape to the part where you stick it to the piggyback - makes removing a whole lot easier
3) if you have a massage gun - you can use it on shock with some rubber adapter to help get the air bubbles out of system
4) instead of using calipers to set the ifp depth, you can print yourself the tool - makes it again a whole lot easier.
Thanks for sharing these tips myman. It's super appreciated. I Never considered a vibrating force like a message gun. I'm wondering how well that would work on an X2. The controls on that thing are always a PITA to bleed, and now that you mention it, a fast vibrating force just might be the thing to force the air out of all those small pockets quicker. I'm going to try this next time 👍 thanks again
This is an excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to record and publish this video!
Thank you very much. hopefully they will help you through the process. If you have any questions feel free to ask. more videos to come
@@zoubtube Yes your video has given me confidence a job like that can be done at home without the need for specialized tools. I actually have a DPX2 shock that in dire need of a complete service and there is a certified Fox service center to send in to in my region. Once I purchase some of the tools I’ll set aside sometime and carefully follow the steps you provided. Keep up the fantastic job! I subscribed to your channel to see more videos when you release them.
As an alternative to the nitrogen needle, you can just replace the delrin bead and sealing bolt with a Schrader valve. Simple fix and helpful given this excellent shock's tendency to require re-bleeds from time to time. Inexpensive Schrader adapters are available with the correct 5/16"-24 ORB thread on the other end. :)
I've seen these but never tried them on a FOX shock. Then again, I mostly work on inline fox shocks (really popular around here) and the schrader valves I've seen stick out to a point where you need to remove it in order to do a 50 hour air can service. If you, or anyone else, know of a valve that would work for an inline shock and allows for a 50 hour without removal feel free to share. It would be much appreciated. definitely makes sense to do it on the piggyback shocks. thanks again for sharing
@@zoubtube Bet it'd be a tall order for a short valve given the fixed length of the standard Schrader core. Shortest I've seen is still 14mm from the mount surface. Probably the original reason for the pellet/needle choice. The piggyback on most of the old DHX-airs came with a Schrader and I guess there are a few reasons why Fox chose to go nitro for the newer ones, not the least of which was potential user confusion between the two valves.
I used this method thanks to your suggestion. Much easier way to refill. Thanks for letting us know
I found the properly threaded Schrader valves to do this mod but I'm having a hard time getting a good seal on the reservoir. I obviously want to be able to remove the valve and top cap for routine service. How'd you go about this? I've tried Teflon tape but I'm scared to apply a bunch of loctite and not be able to get the top seal assembly back out.
Sorry I think my reply to this got deleted by CZcams for some reason. If the reservoir isn't holding air it might be because the end of the Schrader valve isn't contacting anything. You can "double seal" it by drilling a small hole in the old black rubber "puck" and leaving it in there for the end of the valve to contact. That's what I did and it worked fine. @@BlaineCoury
Awesome video! Thank you for putting together such an easy to follow and comprehensive how to! My DPX2 needs this & now I feel confident that I can do it and save myself some cash. Thank you as it!!🤙🏼
Super glad to hear you found it helpful. it's actually an easy shock to service once you get used to it. I just wish fox would give up on the syringe fill and use schrader valves instead to make it easier for everyone
Thanks for taking the time to record this. Very helpful and like your clever "front-end" approach to bleeding that gets so much air out first. Minor point but it's worth noting your torque on the crowfoot is higher than 27.2 because of the extra extension.
Your 100 percent right. my bad without a doubt. I need to remember to turn the crow foot to 90 degrees. So many details to worry about when recording and this one very important detail regularly escapes me. I plan on paying more attention to this in future videos. thank for the heads up
Thanks for your videos! That dyno looks amazing!
Thanks. definitely a solid piece of kit. Surprised the GF hasn't broken it over my head considering the amount of time I've spent with it lately 😁
I thought this was a great video for rebuilding my DPX2. I watched it 3 times, first for overall knowledge, second for knowledge enforcement and part numbers, and third for performing the actual rebuild. I wrote Fox and they quoted me $175 plus tax and shipping. I figured that would add up to a total cost of $220-$230. Instead I purchased $160 in tools that I didn't have (9mm, 11mm, 22mm crowsfoot, nitrogen needle, and the Cap and Base Valve driver. However, it did cost me $110 for REB Cap Driver and Base Valve Driver and like you said, did not need to purchase it but I just wanted to ensure nothing was going on with the base valve assembly. I already had the 5wt fluid but did have to purchase the two rebuild kits, $20 and $35. Anyway, it cost me nearly as much to do it myself as it would have to send it into Fox but now I know exactly what it takes to do it and, in a year and a half, I can do it again at minimal cost. Thank you so much for your video. Excellent video. Thanks again.
My apologies for the delayed response. AWESOME Job myman! It makes me super happy to hear that it all worked out for you. You're 100% right. Once the initial intimidation is gone after performing the service the first time, doing it again and again becomes super easy, and it gets less expensive each time you do it now on. Another benefit, imo, is that the job doesn't need to be rushed. A few extra minutes is all it takes to make sure it's done right. Now go out there and enjoy that shock!
My apologies for the delayed response. AWESOME Job myman! It makes me super happy to hear that it all worked out for you. You're 100% right. Once the initial intimidation is gone after performing the service the first time, doing it again and again becomes super easy, and it gets less expensive each time you do it now on. Another benefit, imo, is that the job doesn't need to be rushed. A few extra minutes is all it takes to make sure it's done right. Now go out there and enjoy that shock!
Great video .
Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to watch it 👍
Nice video
To remove the delrin ball I stick a piece of hot wire, let it cool and then it comes out really easy
So you let the wire melt into the ball and then pull it out? I've never tried this. Going to give it a shot next time. Thanks for the tip. 👍
Great video! Apart from using sharp tools on the bearing assembly seals. Not needed, just pinch them around the assy with your rubber glove or paper towel.
"Apart from using sharp tools on the bearing assembly seals"
Agreed. I typically use a blunt edged rounded pick as it makes it a bit easier, but you are right that it's a bad example to show in these videos. I'll keep this in mind next time. Thanks for the advice
Great explanation video, did myself everything works ok. Best i have every see,....... El mejor video explicativo qué he visto, ya es el segundo, excelente, great job
Muchas gracias por las amables palabras. Me hace muy feliz saber que el video te ayudó. Ahora toca ir a disfrutar de la bicicleta. 👍
Wow this is a hell of a video. Make affiliate links to the oils needed too and I'll use them. Give yourself a chance to make a tiny bit of scratch from all the effort!
Thank you for such a thoughtful comment. 👍 I created an account for amazon affiliates about a month ago and they literally just closed it 4 days ago because I apparently don't qualify. I'm still waiting for an answer as to why. The irony here is, if I was to get money from it, I was planning on buying lower cost tools from amazon to test them in order to see if they would work for some of these jobs in order for people to have more cost effective options to perform them. We'll see how it goes I guess
When hand bleeding it helps to tap the shock with a soft tool when bleeding to knock air out. Tapping and cycling and turning the shock, like moving it side to side really helps get every last bit of air out.
That's a great tip for everyone! Thanks again for the feedback Bob.
For some odd reason I tend to do that with the damper body of inline shocks after filling them with oil. when it comes to piggy back shocks, OCD kicks in big time and cycle over and over till every last bubble come out. A bit of patients goes a long way when it comes to bleeding, well, that or a lot of OCD 😁
Yep I'm the same way when I'm working on a customers shock. I want to be 100% sure I've got all the air out. Tapping speeds up the process which is nice. But I've got a vacuum bleeder now which is great 😊
thanks
Thanks for taking the time to watch it. let me know if there are any questions
Not cuestión the shock increíble after the service . Thanks since Chile
excellent video! im a bike mechanic aprentice and this was very useful thanks. a question though.. i have the infamous cavitation problem on my dpx2 but i just had it serviced recently and i dont want to open everything. can i just bleed the air out? whit the least dissasembling possible
Thank you very much. I'm very glad you found it helpful. The issue with trying to solve this problem without opening the shock is the big risk of the IFP moving from the recommended set depth. This is an extremely delicate process and to make matters more complicated, you can't be sure of which side of the piston the pressure will be when trying to remove it. If oil comes out when opening a bleed port (on the damper body in your case) the IFP will move. You have to be lucky enough to have all the air on the side of the bleed port for it to come out immediately with the absolute least amount of oil in order to get it right.
I know it's a bit of a PITA, but personally, I would just open it, give it a quick bleed, and then you know you're good to go. Once you get used to the bleed process on the DPX2, it goes by pretty quick. Personally, I like bleeding the piggyback shocks, I have more control in order to make sure they are 100% bled. And when it comes to filling the IFP chamber with air using a syringe, the PSI required is much lower than inline shocks, which makes it even easier with less room for errors.
Let me know if you have any other questions on this
Great video - I watched it and did not even realize it was 2hours long :). Question - how to determine the fox service kit You need? Correct year and damper model enough or any more specifics to it? Second - if the lock out on Push to unlock system does not work - full rebuild will fix that?
Thank you for taking the time to watch it. Hopefully it comes in handy for you. FOX Shocks have a tune ID and serial number on them (same goes for their forks) The tune id is based on 4 letters. the serial number is typically a bunch of numbers with one letter near the end. Once you have this info, then:
The best way to find out: Call FOX custom support 800 369-7469 give them the tune ID or serial number and they will give you all the info you need to service the product. they are very helpful people
second way: Go to the following link www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike , input the Tune ID or serial number in either search box near the middle of the page. doing so will give you all the shock information. plus documentation. Typically you will find a service manual and parts doc and in those two docs you will find the service kits. Word of caution though, sometimes some tune id's/serial number might not have all the docs come up. if this is the case call fox
"if the lock out on Push to unlock system does not work - full rebuild will fix that?"
This depends on what the cause is. If the issue is in the shock, then chances are good that it will. if not, then no, which would mean that its most likely a cable issue.
Great video. My shock just started making a squishy sound. Looks like I’ll be giving this a try. The shock is less than two years old I might just bleed the fluid and leave the O-rings. Thanks
If you decide to open the shock, I would really consider replacing at least the IFP seal. chances are it's wearing and letting air and oil mix. it doesn't require all that much work on top of changing the oil
@@zoubtube Good point. Thanks for the suggestion
Do you know the part number for the IFP. I tried zooming in on the package in the video but couldn’t quite make it out. I’m curious why you were going to replace the IFP versus just replacing the O-ring on this shock. Also, do you think there’s any negative affects using the 5wt. oil with the PTFE. That’s the oil I have at my house that I use for my fork.
@@Cfass1 I believe the IFP part number is 805-00-078-KIT for this year shock. I would need to verify with fox to be sure. Your best bet is buying it from your LBS if they are a fox dealer.
The plan was to changed the damper body, the reservoir (because of the scratch) and figured I might as well change the IFP with it. The reservoir had a SUPER long lead time so I dropped it and ended up getting the IFP and new damper body. The shock didn't need a new IFP which worked out well since the one ordered was for a DPS shock.
As for the PTFE, I don't have enough data to provide any official answers on this. but considering FOX is recommending this oil for their grip/grip 2 dampers, then I would have to assume that there is no issue using it. dampers are dampers. they are metal, they have shims, and pistons with small holes, and rubber seals to prevent them from leaking. unless the shock has a different compound rubber seal that might be negatively affected by the oil than I can't think of any reason why you can't use it. And if anyone says otherwise, Make sure to ask for the proof in data and not broscience. 👍
@@zoubtube l appreciate all of your input. Thank you.
Also what is the name of that tool to close the allen screw? I cant find it online?. Thank you again
All the link for the tools doesn't work anymore. It is possible to add name or descrption of the tools for alternative search. Thanks.
Done! let me know if anything else is needed
@@zoubtube Awesome. Thanks.
I have checking the rebuilt kits, RS5732 and RS9215, I didnt found it.... the fox said that is 803-01-283 Seal Kit: FLOAT DPX2 Rebuild, but its hard to find it
are you puncturing the black pellet with the needle? and do you need to replace the delrin ball you removed?
Yup on the first question, and it depends on the second. All the delrin ball does is protect the pellet retain screw from dirt buildup. It doesn't hold back pressure. If it's not destroyed to a point where it just won't fit and stay in without falling out, then technically it can be reused. Both pellets and delrin balls can be purchased individually if you need them for like a buck each. Also, you can use any delrin ball that will fit in the whole. Ultimately, The ball isn't absolutely needed
I will be releasing a detailed video on JUST the air fill process for a Fox shocks in a few weeks. I need to finish up a few fork videos I'm working on first
wouldnt have made it without your guide. the "nitrogen" fill however didnt work as i planned with the slot cut. Needed to make a hex 4 mm tool with hole in it and a small handle to be fast. Thanks a lot! Have you ever serviced a Öhlins TTX 22 shock? Would love to do it myself, too :)
Glad it worked out for you. Sounds like the tool you made is similar to the one I used in the video which will be more comfortable to use. Unfortunately I haven't worked on a Öhlins TTX 22 shock. Around here Ohlins are pretty rare. If I happen to see someone with one, I'll ask them if they would like me to service it.
@@zoubtube nice, that would be great. Yes my tool was quiet exactly the one you have used. Makes it really comfortable.
Great video. What weight is that blue colored fox fluid?
Thanks. I've Never asked about the actual wt of the fox float fluid. it's significantly thicker than most shock/fork oils, If I find and absolute answer I'll let you know.
Thanks for video tutorials
@@juliusmia5386 Thank you for taking the time to watch them. more will be coming soon 👍
It's "assembly lube". Thicker than the 85W gear oil people often recommend as an alternative. Probably the best alternative is just to use a good smear of Slickoleum or similar. It has the advantage of not migrating through equalization dimples as much as Float Fluid. Even Fox seems to be downplaying FF in favour of light grease these days.
So with the IP depth tool does it matter for travel? Or say for 130mm it's the same ok inch and half? Thank you for that video
IFP depth for 2018+ dpx2 shocks is the same, which is 1.5" (38.1mm). hope this helps
I'm going to try to service this starting this weekend@@zoubtube
1:41:39 Can you please tell me the name of this tool. Thanks in advance for your answer
apologies for the delayed response. its the "fox pellet retaining tool". I'd look for the lowest cost online or by with a discount offer. hope this helps
1:22:30 If that torque value isn't offset for the length of the crow's foot, you're doing it wrong.
Yup! I mentioned this in multiple comments. Sometimes I get so caught up with the recording of the jobs that my mind slips, and I forget about some of the details of the actual job. Since then, I have tried to always mention placing the crow's foot at 90 degrees when using one. Unfortunately, that's not the only detail I've missed in some of my older videos. Slowly, but surely, we're learning to record these jobs and be more efficient at them. Scripting would definitely help, but it takes a very significant amount of extra time, which I just don't have. And to say the least, this channel doesn't make enough to pay someone to write scripts (In all honesty, It doesn't make enough to pay for the electricity for the lights to record the videos). But it's okay. People are learning, as am I. 👍
I forgot the sag ring 😁
my kind of humor 😁
Where do i get a kit like this ? IU cant find a kit like yours anywhere .... I dont have factory edition tho, i have performance edition, but should be the same ? :O
Can you let me know which kit you are referring to so I can help you. The factory and performance versions are very similar. the differences between them are very small. Let me know which kit your are interested so I can get you the information you need. thanks
@@zoubtube I probably need compression kit also, i havent done a service on my shock for years and its very swampy and sounds ''wet'' inside, dont know how to explain it haha.
@@mikkanlundgren2428 Most of the tools needed to service this shock are standard tools that can be bought in a typical hardware store. But there are two custom tools needed to remove the control knobs. But I consider these optional. Unless you have issues with your controls, there really is no need to service them. You can change the o'ring under each knob cap, just to make sure dirt and dust don't get in.
398-00-761 Tooling: DPX2, REB Cap Driver: Removes rebound (optional)
398-00-763 Tooling: DPX2, Base Valve Driver - removes the base valve (I don't recommend getting this tool. There's no need to do this portion of the job unless something is seriously wrong with your controls)
The one custom tool I recommend is the "fox pellet retaining tool" Part number - 398-00-374. You can make your own out of an Allen key, but this tool will be easier to work with for filling the shock with air.
Let me know how else I can help.
May i get the fox part numbers for the FX2351 and 2350 please.
also for the nitrogen needle and adapter :) thanks
here you go:
The part number are
398-00-761 - DPX2, REB Cap Driver
398-00-763 - DPX2, Base Valve Driver
You can buy the fox ones, or buy the ones in the link below. I don't know the guy, but I've bought quite a few tools from him over the years and they are solid, as well as less expensive
www.ebay.com/itm/256061110753
As for needles (I didn't realise the links in the description section don;t work any more)
I've use this one and and works good - just make sure to buy extra needles in case they break, which they eventually will.
www.amazon.com/Nicecnc-Nitrogen-Needle-Replace-snowmobile/dp/B082FJS17D/ref=asc_df_B082FJS17D/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647153344237&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11455572063051730896&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016978&hvtargid=pla-965680038216&gclid=CjwKCAjwkNOpBhBEEiwAb3MvvWgCudszNUcVfe-A3LiWdfk3sJE_ha1ZZctRtB_iFrFqc54lhKHk0hoCL00QAvD_BwE&th=1
will this work on 2021 dpx2 factory?
YUP! SAme thing. PIggyback shocks can look a bit intimidating, but personally, I find them easier to service than inline, only because I can be more sure of the bleed. If you decide to do this, watch the video a few times to get the feel of the movements, take your time, and I'm sure you will be successful. If you have any questions let me know 👍
Where do you get that needle tool that tightens the port and also allows you to stick the needle through? I can't find it anywhere?
I'm not sure what your referencing to at the moment (then again my brain is total mush right now from non stop meetings for the last 10 straight hours.) a bit more info or maybe a time stamp in the video might help.
@@zoubtube the small device that you use to tighten the port where the needle is inserted. Rather than making my own from a allen/dremmel as described.
Thanks. The fox part number is 398-00-374. it's a pretty pricey tool, which is why I tried figuring out a way for people to create one with a allen key. You might be able to find third party option on ebay for less. doing a quick google search there seems to be a few shops that have them in stock for $55.
@@zoubtube Thanks!
My DPX2 died a lot faster than my DPS. I wonder if this is normal.
I don't have a large enough data sample to say anything definitive on this (the sample would have to be in the thousands). with this being said, I believe this is quite common for both fox and rockshox. The majority of people I know with inline shocks typically ride xc type trails whereas those with piggybacks tycapilly ride much more aggressive trails, which is more impacting. I can't say for sure if this is a factor though.
Hello, I would like to ship you my DPX2 Shock to be fully rebuilt/serviced. Can you DM me a quote?
email me at zoubtube@hotmail.com