HOW TO DRIVE the Dempster Highway [Part 1] presented by Yokohama Tire
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- I take you on a journey to Canada's Arctic on the mighty Dempster Highway.
Along the way I'll cover all the information and questions you need to set out on your own adventure on one of the most beautiful roads in the entire world!
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REAL advice from a local:
1. You don't need jerry cans. You can easily make it from Dawson to Inuvik on a single tank in a truck or SUV. If you really need gas in between, you can fuel up in Eagle Plains, Fort McPherson, or even Tsiigehtchic. But jerry cans are unnecessary. And don't worry about using gas on detours-- there are no detours. The highway is a single line without any intersections.
2. Locals can (and do) make this drive with cars and minivans all the time. However, I recommend driving something with 4x4. The most popular vehicle up north (and thus the easiest to have serviced) is a Ford F150.
3. The long table at Eagle Plains is for truckers. Sorry, it's claimed!
4. Driving conditions are much better on the NWT side than on the Yukon side. The stretch of highway from Eagle to the border is a "road to nowhere" for the Yukon government so it is in very poor condition. Once you cross into the NWT, the road becomes much smoother and much wider.
5. August is the prettiest month to drive the highway. It is our one and only month of fall, so there are some pretty stunning colours to be seen. September is the first month of winter. HOWEVER, there is often plenty of rain in August, which is a concern for ferry crossings, especially at Fort McPherson.
6. BUDGET EXTRA DAYS IN FORT MCPHERSON IF YOU'RE DRIVING BETWEEN MAY-SEPTEMBER. The ferry landings get washed out weekly, sometimes daily, and need to get rebuilt. You are VERY likely to get stuck on the north side of the Peel when heading south. There are always lineups of vehicles on the highway, the McPherson hotel is full, and the campground (in Niitainlai Territorial Park) gets pretty packed. Make sure you have camping supplies and are not just relying on hotels or sleeping in your car. Even in August, it will regularly get down to +5 degrees Celcius at night.
7. If you are driving in winter, carry a shovel and a tow strap. There are false shoulders all along the highway, and inexperienced highway drivers often move over too much to accommodate semi trucks. They hit the false shoulder and go right through.
8. Also about winter, the roads are in much better condition during winter months. The packed snow helps to smooth the highway out. However, you need to cross THREE mountain ranges on your drive. The highway runs perpendicular to them. So that means MANY possible weather changes en route. Budget for road closures and having to spend extra days at either Dawson, Eagle, or McPherson. Call LJ's Contracting in Fort McPherson for updates on whether the highway gates through the mountains are open or closed.
9. No cell service between Dawson and the Peel River crossing. Similarly, no cell service between McPhoo-Tsiig and Tsiig-Inuvik.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for all the great info, that's super helpful!
Thanks for the great advice, very helpful!
My Ford Escape has a range of about 600 kilometers, so I definitely fueled up in Eagle Plains.
That road has been Item No. 1 on my Bucket List for the last 40 years!
What’s stopping you ?
Up until now: time. Hoping to go next summer. 😊
Finally went! (June 2023)
“This video is already way too long”, speak for yourself! I enjoyed every second of the content. Keep them coming Dan!
Thanks John!
So good to hear someone finally recommending to air down. I’m sure you haven’t had a flat when air down appropriately.
Drivin the Dempster 4 times. It's addicting and other worldly. Met a family of 5 driving a van coming back from Inuvik in 09. The Van looked all beat up. Helped them fix a flat. They had drivin all the way from Georgia and now heading back. Will never forget that. Mosquitos in summer are crazy. Tombstone and Oglvie mountains are worth the trip alone. Nice vid!!
Man... really getting me inspired to take a trip up someday!
Same- I'm keeping a running list: Trans America Trail, Alaska Hwy and the Dempster Hwy...
Clearly the very best overland travel information on CZcams. I watch them all and nothing compares to the quality of honest, from the heart information you provide. Invaluable. New patron supporter today. Wish I could do more. Want to travel rural (really rural) China in the Himalayas? This is where I live six months per year.
Thanks very much for the support!
And yes, I would LOVE to explore that part of the world.... one day!
I just arrived in Inuvik last night. My first time driving the Dempster! If I had done my research properly I probably would have scared myself out of doing the drive solo. But I’m super proud that I did it. I haven’t watched part 2 yet so I’m not sure where you turned around. But, you can technically go a bit past the border as the border check stop was moved to just outside of Fort McPherson. Unfortunately I was headed to work so it was a point A to B type of trip with a few photo stops. I hope to spend a couple of weeks next August camping along the Dempster. And I agree, one of the most beautiful drives I have ever experienced. Thank you for the video :)
Any flat tire?
I had low volume, but still enjoyed, thanks
Yes, seems to be a problem with it only in one channel when he is taking in the car.
Definitely a problem hearing in the jeep. Still, it was a great adventure!
Thank you Yokohama for sponsoring Dan's videos!!!
I rode the dempster to Inuvik on my motorbike in July of 2009. Rain and mud all the way up, and dry on the way back. Can’t wait to drive it with my family soon.
Glad you picked this road. I drove it in 2016 (couldn’t go any further than the Peel River Crossing because of the floods that year) was about to do an Epic road trip this year when Covid happened. It is now scheduled for next year. This is my favourite road as well. I long to get back on it. Can’t wait!!!!
New friend here. Stay safe and journey on. 🌹🌸🌺🌷🌹😷
Oh wow!
3 more days until we head that way way! Thank You for the video.
Have fun!
That would be a great overland video! Winter ice roads from Peace River to Tuk, Tuk back down and across through the Yukon to Alaska then up to the Artic Ocean again, then down the Alaskan Highway to Grand Prairie. There are lots of videos on CZcams about Africa and Australia but almost nothing about that time and place on Earth. This would help qualify you as an extreme world traveler.
Great views - I drove the Top of the World Highway, but didn’t drive the Dempster, so really enjoying watching your trip
Next time!
Awesome Vid. Thanks.
Definitely didn't find the video too long. Enjoying this format. Please do a video on your top 5 (or 10) favorite roads. Even 5 or 10 for Africa, same for South America and same for NA. Have you looked into what is often referred to as a "Chinese diesel heater"? I know it would be one more fuel type to have to carry, but people seem to love them.
Good that you got your drone up at the end.
I drove up to Tuk twice over the past couple of years. Of course I couldn’t do it this year...
Thanks again for this series. It inspired us to drive our Toyota Hiace all the way to Tuktoyaktuk this September; what an awesome trip!
That is Great to hear Mike!
Awesome. That road is on my bucket list.
Go for it!
Excellent video Dan. Filled with useful and practical advice. 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great channel, I just found you. My son and I are planning a trip next summer to the Yukon and possibly Alaska if the border is open by then. Planning to drive the Dempster and I’m also intrigued by the Canol road. Planning to buy a Suburban and rig it up so my son and I can sleep in it.
If your going to do the south and north canol road and the dempster highway. You might as well check out kluane national park
Darcey Carlick thanks for the advice, we’ll add that to the list of things we want to see
Have fun!
The Road Chose Me thanks, your videos will be very helpful for our trip. You should make one about the Canol road!
Another great vid Dan.......Cheers.......Steve
Glad you enjoyed it
I feel your pain with the cold and wind, I just finished inspecting the weather station in Alert, NU. It was -7 with 17kt winds giving a -17 wind chill up here today.
This has been very interesting. Stay safe.
I've driven The Dempster, very cool.
Awesome video! The only thing I would like to see any different would be encorperation of some hikes or other activities outside of your car.
Great idea!
Great video. I am learning so much watching your videos.
Glad to hear it!
Awesome video!
That view is amazing
Ah, you make me want to jump into the Jeep and take off!
Take video. Even cell phone video would be fine.
That looks like a lot of fun!
I had follow your journey on the Beyond Forums / blog posts over the past few years actually, huge fan here from Calgary!
Cheers Spencer, welcome aboard! I make it over to Calgary a couple of times a year, sooner or later I might have a meetup there!
Congrats on the sponsor. Would love to drive that highway. I have done the ice roads north on Yellowknlnife. Have you thought of getting a two way Radio? We carry one to chat with truckers when ever there is traffic or anything happening on the road.
What recovery tracks are you using? And have you used them that often?
Great channel and keep on keeping on.
I think he uses Maxtraxx
They are Maxtrax, they saved me in the Congo!
If possible, could you do an "updated" vehicle build-out vid? Basically an over-view of your current set up? Adding in any changes that you made to your vehicle while on your trip(s), or maybe changes you would/will do to your vehicle, having done these long-term trips? Kind of like a "lessons learned" kinda thing?
I do plan a detailed walk-though video... but the reality is that I've changed nothing. I spent so long designing it that everything worked perfectly!
I'm loving these! Thank you
Glad you like them!
love you information but when you are in the truck the volume is low i dont know if you could improove it but great good job continue your good job thanks for the info by the way
Thanks again great info very much appreciated!
My pleasure!
Epic!
Good informative video.
Great overlanding
Other info I'd like to know is about that river, and the fishing, and what class of whitewater!
i grew up in Inuvik. too bad you couldn't go all the way.
i have driven that road several times.
Great video. I’m hopeful you will get the audio worked out. Gonna watch the videos anyways. Thanks Dan.
Thanks for the advise on tire pressure. How does lowering your tire pressure affect tire wear?
I know you said to help people just be careful and causes there were several people murdered last year on that highway I think.
First off I wanna say that this was a great and informative video, and a question, do you think a Honda CRV with a good set of tires would have any issues driving the length of the Dempster and up to Tuk and then back again? The vehicle is in great shape and I'm planning to drive across Western Canada and up to the Yukon and wanted to attempt this drive.
No problem at all - friends have done it in exactly that vehicle!
@@TheRoadChoseMe awesome! I got a few months off next year to make the trip starting in Ontario I can't wait! Thanks for the reply
I'M getting carsick😵💫😵💫😵💫
Don’t take a second spare, ever! Oh, wait take three?! And the road closes more than “once or twice a month” in winter! More like twice a week sometimes.
I am enjoying your channel! I just started watching Long Way UP on Apple TV and it makes me want to see your Yukon to South America trip. Did you post it on CZcams?
No, I didn't film video back then, but I blogged the entire time - so there are stories and photos from the whole trip on my website.
theroadchoseme.com
I also wrote a book about it - the link is in the video desription!
How much time should one consider as minimum from Dawson City to Tuk. I know that it will very much depend on your pace and what you want to do/visit in between - but at a normal leisurely pace, number of days?
A week would be great!
The wind chill factor must be terrible? Was nice travelling along indeed.
Right now it's totally fine, but in winter is was nasty
Really enjoying the videos! You asked if there's something people want to know. Maybe you could go over winning the lottery? That way I could be cruising up through there too! ;)
Not at all - I'm just an ordinary guy and I'm not willing to wait to win the lottery. I want my dreams to come true now, so I'm working my backside off to make sure it happens!
@@TheRoadChoseMe I'm just kidding man. Love your videos!
Wow, beautiful! I hope one day after covid19 I can come over with my overlandSprinter to North America. But I'm wondering if it is worthwhile doing both: the Dempster hwy to Tuktoyaktuk and the Dalton hwy to Prudhoe Bay. They are both a long way back and forth. Please can you advice me: both are worth the extra mile or only doing one? Thanks for answering! See you one day on the road.
I cover that exact question in the next video coming on Monday!
Hopefully the self-isolation requirements of NWT can be lifted by December, so I can drive the whole road during Christmas
When you are outside of cell coverage, what do you use for emergency communications?
I think he said he had a satellite messenger from SPOT.
Nothing, actually.
@@TheRoadChoseMe My mistake! I must have been thinking of somebody else.
Can you expand a bit on tires? What brand and model do you have? Are they LT vs P? What PSI do you run them at on tarmac vs gravel vs sand road? How do you repair punctures? What tire maintenance do you do?
I will do a very detailed video soon!
If you don't mind sharing, what town/city have you settled in out in Canada? And what were your reasons for staying out there vs elsewhere? That'd be a great video when winter sets in and you can't get out as far. Your content is quite inspiring and i'd love to hear more.
So far I don't see it. I still think Colorado is far more scenic. The San Juan mountains are hard to beat!
That's not to say I'm not enjoying the videos. Great stuff. Just my humble opinion.
Would be nice to know about precaution to take/ what to do if you encounter a bear while around/camping/etc.
Absolutely, I'll film that one this week! I've seen a TON of grizzlies this last week.
Been loving your videos! Do you have a link to your wheels?
Thanks! They're called Mopar Winter Wheels.
👍👍👍👍
Ich bin den Dempster 1994 zu zweit mit dem Rad gefahren. Unvergesslich und würde ich jeder Zeit wieder machen
Great video as always but your mic in the car was almost inaudible.
Have you ever gone all the way up to Tuktoyaktuk? Is it even do-able?
Yep, the road is finished now. NWT might still be closed for covid now, you'll have to check.
Does any of the campground have outlet to plug to plug-in any RV?
I want to swim in the Arctic Ocean. Is this possible to drive up to it and do that!
Yes, no problem at all!
For sleeping right in your vehicle, how do you suggest handling air flow/condensation? I imagine the roof top makes it a non issue for you?
It's a non-issue for my pop-top roof.. If I slept inside the vehicle I think I'd leave a window open a crack.
Is there a part 3?
how often do you need to reapply bear spray? thanks!
Communications in winter would be different - I imagine. Radio bounce snow?? Ask ice road truckers
Nice video! I want to ask if do I need to have all-terrain tires on my van to drive there? I have a ford transit with 10 ply all-season tires, is that suffice to drive there?
I recommend very good quality brand name tires. All-season should be OK if they have plenty of tread life left, all terrain would be better to avoid flats.
Either way make sure you have a plug repair kit and compressor, and know how to use them.
@@TheRoadChoseMe thanks for advice. I have Continental tires all-season with just 40k km on it.
I know you mentioned a few times there is no cell phone service up there but what about Ham Radio and is there a repeater system in place to communicate while on the highway?
Sorry, I have no idea. Maybe you can find something around the internet.
How are you making those videos while driving your jeep? Would you be to provide some guide? I have 3 weeks, driving from pittsburgh, and to see arctic ocean in canada by dampster Hwy and then also prudhoe Bay, what should I see along the way? Also need some tips on tires for my car and some kind of food and all travel expense guide. Sorry for alot of questions.
I mean videos from Sky.
Question? So a quality tire for this trip. "E" rated tires to help with durability or are you using C or D to help resist a popped tire?
I currently have E rated, but that all depends on how much your vehicle weighs.
By "quality" I mean a brand-name that you recognize, not the "buy 3 get one free" no-name the cheap-o tire dealer tries to push on you.
Are there lots of washboard corrugations or mostly ‘smooth’ gravel/rock with the odd area of potholes that you mentioned?
Not really any corrugations to speak of.
Is there a video where you talk about why you chose a manual transmission or what is your reason? I’m guessing simplicity.
Simplicity, mileage, push start ability, more enjoyment, more control on steep mountain passes.
Were the mosquitos and flies still a big issue in mid/late September?
No, hardly any as it was getting cold overnight
@@TheRoadChoseMe thanks Your Dempster series inspired me, and we leave in 2-1/2 weeks!
How fast are you going most of the time? In miles per hour
On the Dempster? The speed limit is 80kmh (I think) which is 50mph.
I'd say most of the time I'm doing more like 35 or 40 mph
How about snow chains for the 'real' winter times?
I grew up in BC, and snow chains are more something you would use when the weather is not much below freezing. Once it's down to -20°C or so (-5°F), ice gets sticky and good winter tires will grip it easily. It's ice with a thin film of water from melting in the sun, or freezing rain, on hills, where you want chains that can bust into it to get grip. Most of the time you don't want chains because they'll limit your speed, they chew up the road severely, and if they come undone can cause severe damage to your vehicle. Heavy commercial vehicles will use chains because they don't have the option of winter tires (they're required to carry chains for half the year by law in BC). Small vehicles will often get studded tires.
Nobody in the north uses snow chains.... really good tires are a better choice, and you can still drive at a good speed.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Thanks for the replies, I am in South Africa and had no rain for about 6 months, maybe get some next month!!! Its really interesting what both of you have to say, thx.
So, on rough roads like the Dempster, do you have any idea if upgrading the suspension would make for a smoother, more comfortable ride?
Depends entirely on how much weight you have, and what suspension you go with.
If you get a 4.5 inch lift designed for hardcore rock crawling, then absolutely not.
The Road Chose Me , sort of funny, shortly after I asked this question I saw your second Dempster Highway video where you said living space was far more important than... and you listed a whole bunch of things and one was suspicion. I’m 99% sure the timing was such that you had not seen my comment upon making the video.
As far as lift goes, I LOVE your perspective on why 33 is the best overlanding tire size and I plan to stick with that in my Rubicon. All in all it seems like there isn’t much use in upgrading suspension.
nice content ! I just sold all of my CB Radio equipment because i could not find a good mounting solution within my new rig . in your travels have you ever considered a CB radio for communication in remote area's or is there a better option ? curious to hear your thoughts. Thank you ~peace~
Hi Andrew,
Radios like that are illegal in some parts of Africa, so I never really considered it for my trip. Here in North America I don't think it's needed.
@@TheRoadChoseMe thanks Sir for getting back , i appreciate your teachings ~peace~
What do you use to heat the vehicle overnight when parked?
Nothing, just a warm sleeping bag.
I'm planning driving my Volvo XC70 to Dempster Hwy from Toronto this summer/fall. Do you think puncture-resistant tires like BF Goodrich KO2 is a must-have to survive the trip? 'Cuz 90% of the trip is on paved highway, I don't know what kind of tires should I choose. Thank you.
Any good quality brand name tire should be fine. Make sure you have a quality full-size spare, and bring a compressor and plug kit too. It's cheap insurance against getting stranded.
@@TheRoadChoseMe ：）Thank you gentleman.I will.
Would you say I'll be fine with current Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 (bit sporty) tires? Or should I put on my winter Michelin X-Ice xi3 tires in summer for their larger tire chunks? Or buying a set of Michelin all-weather tires like Cross Climate 2? (sorry I prefer Michelin more.)
And do you think 235/50R18 okay for such a road trip? If you say yes, then I won't spend $ on 3rd set of rims and tires.
hey im wondering if you could do something on the size of tire you picked my old over landing xj finally went to heaven and i have an jt on order and cant decide if i want 35s or 37
I did a couple of videos on tire size!
1: czcams.com/video/bNW7-nCuVmw/video.html
2: czcams.com/video/-fBA0ajwjns/video.html
@@TheRoadChoseMe thanks your awesome !
👍👍⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👍👍
Low volume audio with single channel when you are recording inside the vehicle.
Sorry about that, I'm trying to find a way to make it better, but I'm struggling with the background noise of the drive
What makes you am expert ?
My question is about staying warm. What do you do about heat at night for sleeping and keeping your water tank un frozen?
My vehicle was designed for Africa... so nothing right now. My sleeping bag is plenty good enough for these conditions, but if I came up in the dead of winter it would be an entirely different story.
I could pay attention to the road surface... If the video had not been speeded up
What are the odds of hitting wildlife on the highway?
Pretty slim - you'll see them coming from a mile away, and you won't be driving super fast anyway, the surface doesn't allow for it.
Toyota/Land Rover guys can't imagine a Jeep in Africa... lol.
:-)
Gotta fix that sound
Do you need a passport
From the US to Canada, yes.
Is it safe for a single female to travel the Dempster?
Yes, actually I passed a single lady walking it just near the Arctic Circle!
The Road Chose Me Oh wow! It’s on my bucket list. I’ve driven to Fairbanks twice already. Can’t wait to add this road to my trip.
Can barely hear you in the vehicle ....7 minutes in for the second time, inaudible...love the content, but....