NOTE: ****THE BRAKE PADS AND RETAINER CLIP ARE INSTALLED INCORRECTLY***** Chad, at 10:25 seconds in the video, the metal tab that you are folding over is incorrect. That metal tab is supposed to fold into the brake wear indicator. In your video, the wear indicator is on the bottom of the pad, which is the wrong position. That means you have the pad on the wrong side of the caliper because the wear indicator needs to be on top. That metal tab on the shim goes on the inside of the wear indicator and it is used to pull the pad away from the rotor when your foot is off the brake. How did I know this? I tried to install the brakes the way you stated in your video and the metal tab would not stay in position. When I got to the other side of the car, I paid attention to where the metal tab was located and I had to redo the first wheel.
2:09 in the video shows the correct position of the brake pad and metal tab inserted inside the wear indicator. This is before you disassembled the brakes.
CAUTION: Permatex 24125 should NOT be used for slide bolts, as it is unsafe for rubber boots. Use Permatex 80653/24129 or Nissan-recommended MOLYKOTE AS800N. Otherwise excellent video, very helpful.
Source? The Technical Data Sheet states: TYPICAL APPLICATIONS • Long and short bolts • Outboard pad backing plate • Inboard pad backing plate • Disc brake calipers • Caliper pins • Pistons
@@barry5767 Yup, it says all that and more. But it also says right on the label that it contains "synthetic base oils." This is apparently the problem with some types of "rubber" which causes it to swell and fail. Multiple complaints on Mazda forums, and one report from a Honda owner on Amazon. Might not be an issue with factory Nissan boots, but with aftermarket we don' know what the material is. So it's much safer to use a silicone-based lubricant for the slide bolts, especially when teaching others. On your own car where you've used it for years, probably ok to continue, the incompatibility should have shown up by now.
very well explained and very easy to follow. would like more like this easy.Wanted £345.00 at dealer and local wanted £160.00. Done it for cost of parts £65.00. took hour and half time well spent. thank you
Im sure that the twp retaining bolts for the caliber are different in lenght so you need to put the bolt back from were it came..and make sure you remember which is top and which is bottom
Perfect! thank you! one thing you should know, when i retraced my pistons the brake fluid canister was overflowing. its normal, but i forgot to keep an eye and reduce some.. so watch yours while retracing or else it spills..
This was a perfect how to video, but you should have hit the calipers and the Center of those rotor's with some Black or Red Brake Caliper paint. Just some icing on the cake..
Great video! i like to wear nitrile gloves due to the chemicals and asbestos exposure. Also, i use a little wd-40 on the caliper plunger rubber before compressing
You're not wrong, gloves would have been a good addition. I usually where them, but hard with the camera, taking them on and off. I appreciate you watching!
Are the rear brakes on the Juke basically the same process? It seems most people just start with the front brakes. I have the same year model, so I figure it's time.
Hey there! Yes, it is pretty much the exact same steps to do the rears. Most of the time, the rear brakes don't need to be done as much as the fronts, but if you are already doing brakes anyways, might as well do them :) Thanks for watching!
Wont pressing the caliper back to the shut position cause the brake fluid to rush back to the brake master cylinder causing it to overflow, or possibly blowing the cap off?
If you added fluid when the pads were worn, you risk overflowing when the piston is pressed back, if you haven't added fluid, then the fluid will return to the original level. It is good to check the level and vent the cap before moving the piston.
So, you only have to bleed the brakes if you replace the caliper. If you are just replacing brake pads and rotors, you don't have to bleed the brakes. Thanks for watching!
I have a question my brakes are clicking at any speed no matter if I’m going straight or turning and my brakes feel loose like I can move them around any quick fixes
@@ChadWilliamsFixesAll The front guide pins have a lot of play with me. Now with the new brake pads I expect good results. But with more km it may warp back. Can those pins of the brake calipers be replaced?
Yeah he did lol if you look at the brake pad when he took it out the metal flap was on the top and he put it back with metal flap going doing but all and all great video
NOTE: ****THE BRAKE PADS AND RETAINER CLIP ARE INSTALLED INCORRECTLY***** Chad, at 10:25 seconds in the video, the metal tab that you are folding over is incorrect. That metal tab is supposed to fold into the brake wear indicator. In your video, the wear indicator is on the bottom of the pad, which is the wrong position. That means you have the pad on the wrong side of the caliper because the wear indicator needs to be on top. That metal tab on the shim goes on the inside of the wear indicator and it is used to pull the pad away from the rotor when your foot is off the brake. How did I know this? I tried to install the brakes the way you stated in your video and the metal tab would not stay in position. When I got to the other side of the car, I paid attention to where the metal tab was located and I had to redo the first wheel.
2:09 in the video shows the correct position of the brake pad and metal tab inserted inside the wear indicator. This is before you disassembled the brakes.
Thanks dude @@afc2063
This was a big help. Thank you for taking the time to film it.
You're welcome!
Helped me with my break change just now. Was about to leave for work and found out breaks seized . Great video and thanks!
Nice video, I always say I'm going to make one but never do. You've helped a lot of people out I'm sure of that.
CAUTION: Permatex 24125 should NOT be used for slide bolts, as it is unsafe for rubber boots. Use Permatex 80653/24129 or Nissan-recommended MOLYKOTE AS800N. Otherwise excellent video, very helpful.
Source? The Technical Data Sheet states:
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
• Long and short bolts
• Outboard pad backing plate
• Inboard pad backing plate
• Disc brake calipers
• Caliper pins
• Pistons
@@barry5767 Yup, it says all that and more. But it also says right on the label that it contains "synthetic base oils." This is apparently the problem with some types of "rubber" which causes it to swell and fail. Multiple complaints on Mazda forums, and one report from a Honda owner on Amazon. Might not be an issue with factory Nissan boots, but with aftermarket we don' know what the material is. So it's much safer to use a silicone-based lubricant for the slide bolts, especially when teaching others. On your own car where you've used it for years, probably ok to continue, the incompatibility should have shown up by now.
very well explained and very easy to follow. would like more like this easy.Wanted £345.00 at dealer and local wanted £160.00. Done it for cost of parts £65.00. took hour and half time well spent.
thank you
Im sure that the twp retaining bolts for the caliber are different in lenght so you need to put the bolt back from were it came..and make sure you remember which is top and which is bottom
Brill, thank you, you have given me the confidence to do the job
Perfect! thank you! one thing you should know, when i retraced my pistons the brake fluid canister was overflowing. its normal, but i forgot to keep an eye and reduce some.. so watch yours while retracing or else it spills..
This is awesome.Thanks for the great vid!
Done. Very helpful video. THX
This was a perfect how to video, but you should have hit the calipers and the Center of those rotor's with some Black or Red Brake Caliper paint. Just some icing on the cake..
Buena explicacion Campeon .Gracias
Great video! i like to wear nitrile gloves due to the chemicals and asbestos exposure. Also, i use a little wd-40 on the caliper plunger rubber before compressing
You're not wrong, gloves would have been a good addition. I usually where them, but hard with the camera, taking them on and off. I appreciate you watching!
I think wd-40 contains petroleum distillates that break down the rubber.
Are the rear brakes on the Juke basically the same process? It seems most people just start with the front brakes. I have the same year model, so I figure it's time.
Hey there! Yes, it is pretty much the exact same steps to do the rears. Most of the time, the rear brakes don't need to be done as much as the fronts, but if you are already doing brakes anyways, might as well do them :) Thanks for watching!
You have the pads upside down.
The clips of the hardware has to go in the loop of the indicator.
Wont pressing the caliper back to the shut position cause the brake fluid to rush back to the brake master cylinder causing it to overflow, or possibly blowing the cap off?
If you added fluid when the pads were worn, you risk overflowing when the piston is pressed back, if you haven't added fluid, then the fluid will return to the original level. It is good to check the level and vent the cap before moving the piston.
I have a 2016 juke I’m going to assume same process.. question tho when changing the pads do you have to replace the shimmy’s ?
I’m going to do my breaks soon and thought you had to “bleed” the breaks. You didn’t mention that. I am just wondering what that is?
So, you only have to bleed the brakes if you replace the caliper. If you are just replacing brake pads and rotors, you don't have to bleed the brakes. Thanks for watching!
Thank you
Where are you placing your floor jack and stands? The inter-webs have not given great guidance on this.
Yeah, the manual doesn't really either. Seems pretty important.
I have a question my brakes are clicking at any speed no matter if I’m going straight or turning and my brakes feel loose like I can move them around any quick fixes
pads need changed. the noise is an inbuilt indicator the are getting worn down
TORQUE SPECS man... Torque specs.
What size of vice-grip for pushing the caliper back in?
Hey Tristan! These one here will work great! amzn.to/2Wq4m8E
12:44 now he's working
Wish I could actually work that fast lol
@@ChadWilliamsFixesAll The front guide pins have a lot of play with me. Now with the new brake pads I expect good results. But with more km it may warp back. Can those pins of the brake calipers be replaced?
Sorry dude but you have installed the outer pad wrong. In fact it’s upside down and probably for the other wheel.
L4UCA how?
Yeah he did lol if you look at the brake pad when he took it out the metal flap was on the top and he put it back with metal flap going doing but all and all great video
Not for complete lamers