First off - I would LOVE to see more videos like this. Specifically, videos that more fully discuss the printing side of the process. On top of that I'm sure everybody would enjoy seeing more of your final results. Second - With regards to printing flat to the base.. this was actually my first thought when I started printing bases a couple of years back when I got my first resin printer but I stopped doing because.. well, for the reason you mentioned (getting it off of the build plate) but on top of that you can lose fine details on the surface. With a basic brick pattern on an otherwise flat base you wouldn't notice but with something would more detail and a variation of height I'm pretty sure you'll notice the difference. Or, maybe this is only an issue with non-4k/8k printers? You tell me.
Thanks Jay, glad you liked the video. I do want to show more of the final results too (as you say it's often helpful to see). I am curious about the loss of detail you have mentioned, I have done this for quite a few different things and havent noticed a huge (if any) loss of detail. It may be to do with my printer being 4k, the only thing I have had to be careful with is anything completely paralel to the build plate that can need an extra fine support.
When I was printing my coins I printed them all vertically to save space and maximize printing and they turned out great. They were completely resting on their edges.
I have a flex base for my OG Mars Pro and if (when) I get another resin printer, I'll be ordering a flex plate at the same time. I just will not go back to chiseling prints off.
Its such a nicer process having the flexible bases. Did you have any issue installing yours? I heard from some that they found levelling it the first time tricky but I didnt have that issue so I was curious.
When you're in Lychee Manual Supports, make sure you click the "mirror - X" button, so you only need to place supports for one side. Also, remember to click the "Parents" and "Bracings" button to branch off existing supports and brace against each other, resulting in a stiffer and so much more reliable support structure.
Great points. Though I wish when parenting supports you could automatically set them to become thicker in the stem when they are used as a parent, I often find the extra strain can cause them to break, even with bracing.
Thanks so much. Hopefully you're enjoying my other content as well. I try to include 3D printing elements where they are appropriate, you should enjoy this video as well I think: czcams.com/video/h-I-D3KVMrA/video.html
Loved it. Bases are always tricky. Ive just had 10 just fail due to supports lol. Thanks for the insight into your way as I’m keen to try the flat to build plate option
Since you use Lychee, it (since 3.0) has elephant foot compensation available in the resin profile. Do a couple test prints and simply let Lychee do the inset for you instead of precooking into the model or sanding. This also will let you adapt to different resins and not have to re-model.
Thanks for the comments. I have played with the elephant foot compensation a but but admittedly not enough to get it working perfectly, this was one of those test prints but it was still there a bit (less than it would have been). I will continue to tweak 😅
You can get rid of the elephant’s foot by insetting the bottom face of the base a couple of mil and then pull it down by the same amount. It works really well.
Thanks, I should have probably mentioned this in the video. I find removing these extra mm more of a pain than sanding down for the other options so I didn't include it. Its probably my inability to sand evenly but I always find I end up with bases that dont sit flat on the table when I do this or are at an angle. I think if I has something like a belt sander it would be worth it but as it is it takes me more time to sort out for a worse result. But thanks for the comment as Im sure that wont be true for everyone so its good for people to know.
@@Perchpole Oh its not that I don't know how to sand it down. Its that sanding from the bottom through more material takes longer than the methods I've shown and there is more chance of getting bases of different heights and if you push down on one side more even though the bottom of the base is "flat" the top of the base might not be parallel to the sanded bottom.
So Ive recently started attempting to make my own custom bases and print them, I also got a flexible printing bed to help remove it. However Ibe noticed that when I print it laying flat on the bed the base... Squishes? Printing on a 45° angle doesn't alter it at all, and is exactly how it is measured in Blender, just when layed flat does the z axis get affected.
How did you make the bases able to be removed from the larger scenic display? I had scanned through your making miniature base tutorial and didn't see how to do that
Its in Video 5 of that series o how to cut out the bases, then you just cut out the bases and then have a slightly wider column to remove from the initial base.
That's mostly covered here (in the 5th video in the playlist): czcams.com/play/PLnqmLZKRm5CYlRZ6rjHT_eUKcJVC9FFhv.html The only thing that's not there is just making a cylinder and doing the same again for the recess.
Atm printing my bases flat too. Almost all of them are good, but sometimes i can print absolutely the same base with the same resin and settings in the same place and get like initial ring - then on one of the circle around 10% there would be a gap , like there wasn't enough adhesion to the resin , while other parts of the round base are fine. I honestly don't understand why and how as it happens with the same everyting even fep. And what makes me confused even more It isn't about build plate adhesion, it usually happens around layer 40-50, so it's like spontaneously wants to just not stick to the resin on a place near the edge. And this doesn't have a regularity and it could occur on the different base places (so it always happens in different places, so i presume It isn't because of FEP or build plate, or that thing would happen in the same place all the time). I know It's quite difficult situation, tho I'm curious whether anyone has ever faces the same problem.
It it because there is some suction that causes additional sticking to the FEP when the build plate pulls away? This is one of the more common issues with printing in this way. I find it can be solved by putting a hole in the side of the base (or the top) depending where the issue is occuring or what is causing the suction. That would be my guess.
@@ArtisansofVaul Thanks, would try it! But i wish i knew where exactly the suction comes, the base is quite flat, no inner holes or smth, so maybe i just should build up some aditional material on the bottom, place a hole here and print it couple of times
@@gadoyw Oh that is intetresting, I had assumed the bases were hollow inside/ were not solid and that would create the suction. If that isnt the case Im a little baffled too. Have you got a picture of a printed base with the line on? Or maybe a few of the bases?
@@ArtisansofVaul when you add material to an edge or hole with the purpose of it being sacrificed to take all the distortions in printing, being snapped or sanded off after
Great video! I wonder if using a kind of combination of the two solutions would work? Basically elevating the base off the print bed by a few mm on some robust supports buried on the bottom where you can flush cut it after to avoid both the major sanding and "elephant foot" from the burn in layers. Will do some experimenting as well, I did wind up with a flexible plate, so much nicer than trying to pry it off. As for your content, I love your blender tutorials of course but am a huge fan of seeing them integrated into some final prints or slicer tricks. I much prefer Lychee too.
I did exactly this with some bases where they were not solid (the had an indent on the bottom). I actually found it a nightmare to sort out as while I was sanding down the burn in layers I couldnt keep the base level (more a statement of my sanding ability than anything else). It would also make a lot of material to get through. If I had a belt sander I would definetly try it/use it though.
@@ArtisansofVaul ah! Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks for sharing the results of all this trial and error! The belt sander just sounds real messy anyway haha
Actually that's a really big oversimplification (at least from my reading and my experience), especially with flat surfaces. The optimum angle is generally controlled by your layer height so that should be in my mind the main consideration. However there are other factors that take effect. Either way I find 46 degrees work best with my printer and layer height and I don't doubt 30 degrees works best for you. If you'd like to read more around it there's some good explanation in this article: themechninja.com/07/3d-printing-flat-surfaces-on-a-sla-3d-printer/
@@ArtisansofVaul the explanation about the 30 degree lie on the fact that printers are XY fixed but not Z, and that the angle was taking most advantage of this not to make layer lines on some surfaces. well base mostly we don’t care, but on models it was a real deal. i have to find the long article that was explaining all, with impacts on layer lines and other stuff.
i just read your article and that’s mostly what he is saying, so that’s not a bad thing. And i didn’t know the impact of the z value, i go to bed less stupid :)
@@alexandreducrocq3786 I think everything's a learning curve. And as I say if it works for your printer thats all good. I know someone how swears by printing at 50 degrees and seeing his prints I cant dissagree with his results but that makes no sense to me 😅 So whatever works for you 👍
First off - I would LOVE to see more videos like this. Specifically, videos that more fully discuss the printing side of the process. On top of that I'm sure everybody would enjoy seeing more of your final results.
Second - With regards to printing flat to the base.. this was actually my first thought when I started printing bases a couple of years back when I got my first resin printer but I stopped doing because.. well, for the reason you mentioned (getting it off of the build plate) but on top of that you can lose fine details on the surface. With a basic brick pattern on an otherwise flat base you wouldn't notice but with something would more detail and a variation of height I'm pretty sure you'll notice the difference. Or, maybe this is only an issue with non-4k/8k printers? You tell me.
Thanks Jay, glad you liked the video. I do want to show more of the final results too (as you say it's often helpful to see). I am curious about the loss of detail you have mentioned, I have done this for quite a few different things and havent noticed a huge (if any) loss of detail. It may be to do with my printer being 4k, the only thing I have had to be careful with is anything completely paralel to the build plate that can need an extra fine support.
When I was printing my coins I printed them all vertically to save space and maximize printing and they turned out great. They were completely resting on their edges.
Good choice for a coin for sure as I imagine they have details on both sides 👍🏻
Thank you for these videos! Excellent content and it's great to find Blender tutorials for what I need.
No problem at all. Great to hear they are helping
I have a flex base for my OG Mars Pro and if (when) I get another resin printer, I'll be ordering a flex plate at the same time. I just will not go back to chiseling prints off.
Its such a nicer process having the flexible bases. Did you have any issue installing yours? I heard from some that they found levelling it the first time tricky but I didnt have that issue so I was curious.
When you're in Lychee Manual Supports, make sure you click the "mirror - X" button, so you only need to place supports for one side. Also, remember to click the "Parents" and "Bracings" button to branch off existing supports and brace against each other, resulting in a stiffer and so much more reliable support structure.
Great points. Though I wish when parenting supports you could automatically set them to become thicker in the stem when they are used as a parent, I often find the extra strain can cause them to break, even with bracing.
Very helpful content mate, keep em coming, love this wargaming 3d printing content combined with blender
Thanks so much. Hopefully you're enjoying my other content as well. I try to include 3D printing elements where they are appropriate, you should enjoy this video as well I think: czcams.com/video/h-I-D3KVMrA/video.html
You won't believe it. But I have that exact kitchen timer on my fridge@@ArtisansofVaul Epic hehe
@@Mile2112 🤣🤣🤣 That's awesome.
Loved it. Bases are always tricky. Ive just had 10 just fail due to supports lol. Thanks for the insight into your way as I’m keen to try the flat to build plate option
Yeah they can be really frustrating. Let me know how it goes!
Since you use Lychee, it (since 3.0) has elephant foot compensation available in the resin profile. Do a couple test prints and simply let Lychee do the inset for you instead of precooking into the model or sanding. This also will let you adapt to different resins and not have to re-model.
Thanks for the comments. I have played with the elephant foot compensation a but but admittedly not enough to get it working perfectly, this was one of those test prints but it was still there a bit (less than it would have been). I will continue to tweak 😅
You can get rid of the elephant’s foot by insetting the bottom face of the base a couple of mil and then pull it down by the same amount. It works really well.
Thanks, I should have probably mentioned this in the video. I find removing these extra mm more of a pain than sanding down for the other options so I didn't include it. Its probably my inability to sand evenly but I always find I end up with bases that dont sit flat on the table when I do this or are at an angle. I think if I has something like a belt sander it would be worth it but as it is it takes me more time to sort out for a worse result. But thanks for the comment as Im sure that wont be true for everyone so its good for people to know.
@@ArtisansofVaul I use a sheet of wet and dry sandpaper which has been glued onto a piece of MDF. It produces the same effect as a belt sander! ;-)
@@Perchpole Oh its not that I don't know how to sand it down. Its that sanding from the bottom through more material takes longer than the methods I've shown and there is more chance of getting bases of different heights and if you push down on one side more even though the bottom of the base is "flat" the top of the base might not be parallel to the sanded bottom.
What settings do you use when printing the base directly from the bed? Mine are getting stuck to the FEP
I have a magnetic bed so it can flex it to release them. I wouldn't do it without as you'd almost certainly damage the bed getting it off
So Ive recently started attempting to make my own custom bases and print them, I also got a flexible printing bed to help remove it. However Ibe noticed that when I print it laying flat on the bed the base... Squishes? Printing on a 45° angle doesn't alter it at all, and is exactly how it is measured in Blender, just when layed flat does the z axis get affected.
That's really weird. I've never had anything like that happen. If 45 degrees works for you no reason not to do it, I just found flat more reliable.
How did you make the bases able to be removed from the larger scenic display? I had scanned through your making miniature base tutorial and didn't see how to do that
Its in Video 5 of that series o how to cut out the bases, then you just cut out the bases and then have a slightly wider column to remove from the initial base.
@@ArtisansofVaul awesome! That was my thought of how to do it, just am new enough to blender I wasn't confident it would actually work
cool thanks, fyi if you use wet & dry sandpaper with some water you don't need to worry about the dust.
That's very true, I hadn't really discovered that until recently and it's very handy stuff
Great knowledge dude! I would actually be interested how you cut out the base part and then also the recess for it
That's mostly covered here (in the 5th video in the playlist): czcams.com/play/PLnqmLZKRm5CYlRZ6rjHT_eUKcJVC9FFhv.html
The only thing that's not there is just making a cylinder and doing the same again for the recess.
Atm printing my bases flat too. Almost all of them are good, but sometimes i can print absolutely the same base with the same resin and settings in the same place and get like initial ring - then on one of the circle around 10% there would be a gap , like there wasn't enough adhesion to the resin , while other parts of the round base are fine. I honestly don't understand why and how as it happens with the same everyting even fep. And what makes me confused even more It isn't about build plate adhesion, it usually happens around layer 40-50, so it's like spontaneously wants to just not stick to the resin on a place near the edge. And this doesn't have a regularity and it could occur on the different base places (so it always happens in different places, so i presume It isn't because of FEP or build plate, or that thing would happen in the same place all the time).
I know It's quite difficult situation, tho I'm curious whether anyone has ever faces the same problem.
It it because there is some suction that causes additional sticking to the FEP when the build plate pulls away? This is one of the more common issues with printing in this way. I find it can be solved by putting a hole in the side of the base (or the top) depending where the issue is occuring or what is causing the suction. That would be my guess.
@@ArtisansofVaul Thanks, would try it! But i wish i knew where exactly the suction comes, the base is quite flat, no inner holes or smth, so maybe i just should build up some aditional material on the bottom, place a hole here and print it couple of times
@@gadoyw Oh that is intetresting, I had assumed the bases were hollow inside/ were not solid and that would create the suction. If that isnt the case Im a little baffled too. Have you got a picture of a printed base with the line on? Or maybe a few of the bases?
@@ArtisansofVaul Magnificent youtube deletes my messages with links to the pictures so I have no idea how i can share them.
@@gadoyw That's annoying. I can be found on Instagram if that works?
I have heard this technique be referred to as a "sacrificial" in printing forums, edges/bridges/material
Which part? Printing flat on the printer bed?
@@ArtisansofVaul when you add material to an edge or hole with the purpose of it being sacrificed to take all the distortions in printing, being snapped or sanded off after
Great video! I wonder if using a kind of combination of the two solutions would work? Basically elevating the base off the print bed by a few mm on some robust supports buried on the bottom where you can flush cut it after to avoid both the major sanding and "elephant foot" from the burn in layers. Will do some experimenting as well, I did wind up with a flexible plate, so much nicer than trying to pry it off. As for your content, I love your blender tutorials of course but am a huge fan of seeing them integrated into some final prints or slicer tricks. I much prefer Lychee too.
I did exactly this with some bases where they were not solid (the had an indent on the bottom). I actually found it a nightmare to sort out as while I was sanding down the burn in layers I couldnt keep the base level (more a statement of my sanding ability than anything else). It would also make a lot of material to get through. If I had a belt sander I would definetly try it/use it though.
@@ArtisansofVaul ah! Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks for sharing the results of all this trial and error! The belt sander just sounds real messy anyway haha
still watching, but the best angle for 3d printing is not 45 degree, it’s 30. you will see a huge difference by using this.
Actually that's a really big oversimplification (at least from my reading and my experience), especially with flat surfaces. The optimum angle is generally controlled by your layer height so that should be in my mind the main consideration. However there are other factors that take effect. Either way I find 46 degrees work best with my printer and layer height and I don't doubt 30 degrees works best for you. If you'd like to read more around it there's some good explanation in this article: themechninja.com/07/3d-printing-flat-surfaces-on-a-sla-3d-printer/
@@ArtisansofVaul the explanation about the 30 degree lie on the fact that printers are XY fixed but not Z, and that the angle was taking most advantage of this not to make layer lines on some surfaces. well base mostly we don’t care, but on models it was a real deal. i have to find the long article that was explaining all, with impacts on layer lines and other stuff.
@@alexandreducrocq3786 I'd like to read that
i just read your article and that’s mostly what he is saying, so that’s not a bad thing. And i didn’t know the impact of the z value, i go to bed less stupid :)
@@alexandreducrocq3786 I think everything's a learning curve. And as I say if it works for your printer thats all good. I know someone how swears by printing at 50 degrees and seeing his prints I cant dissagree with his results but that makes no sense to me 😅 So whatever works for you 👍