Bigbore stroker 277 part 12 - First test ride, will it live?
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- čas přidán 11. 02. 2018
- The first test ride is done! Obviously not completely without trouble...
Thanks to Lars / ForsnäsMopar for holding the camera. Go check out his nitrous Citation on his channel!
/ forsnasmopar
Check out my Instagram at / hollaendaren
Spoiler alert, Instagram is going to be a bit ahead of the videos.
Music: Russki Psycho by The Vivisectors - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Hahaha! walk of shame! ja det blir så ibland!!😆 det där fixar du ju fort!!!👌
It's very therapeutic, when things go wrong, to smash into them repeatedly with a sledgehammer. But beware, the feeling of satisfaction is short-lived.
oh bummer for the crack! engine looked good even if lean in the first part of the video, congratulations keep up the good work
jnuxca I'm just happy it wasn't worse than that :) Would've liked it more if I could've continued testing though. But shit happens, it's a relatively easy fix :)
Hauling ass, awesome! Too bad about the crack, could've been worse tho. You might find that fuel requirements on E85 changes when the engine gets above 70°C or so. When it's cold(and I assume it is in your part of the world...) some/most of the fuel just pass through the engine without contributing to combustion. Even worse on methanol/nitro - on a cold engine I've had fuel pouring out the exhaust while running lean.
Yeah we've seen that it can be a lot worse, so I'm not complaining! :)
It had been warming up for about 5 minutes before the actual test ride so it was warm, but far from race temperature. That's very good to know that jetting may vary quite a bit depending on engine temp, thanks! I've heard about the cold starting problems with E85 of course, it was only about -5 and it was already noticably harder to start than on gasoline, it took 3 or 4 primes and pulls. It'd start but die again right away, probably like you say because most of the fuel went out unburnt. If it turns out to become a problem I'll probably add a small auxiliary tank with regular 98 in it for cold starts.
Hollaendaren A little acetone mixed in can help, 5-10% or so.
Thanks for the tip!
Echt hele gave filmpjes! Ik kijk het plezier!😃💪 ga zo door. Succes met de hobby's. Wanneer ga je weer verder met de puch? Want ik lees er niks meer over op het puchforum😉
+Martijn Vlasblom Dank je! Misschien van de zomer weer wat Puch/Monark werk. Ik heb al 2 projecten gepland staan die voor gaan. Ik wil een echte rollenbank bouwen, en de minibike gaat op een enigszins speciale manier getuned worden. Is nog even een verassing ;)
Top! Ik ben benieuwd😉
LOL @ 2:36 and 2:46 - always 'nice' when you get screwed-over by the last thing you thought would stop you.
It wasn't the last thing I expected, I break those things all the time. The NOOOOO was mostly because it died on me right after so I had to walk back :)
Thanks for the videos. I've been following along and really enjoy. You've been showing a lot of engine work and what you do to make power. What do you do to make OLY turn and handle?
Thanks for following along :)
Handling is definitely the achilles heel of this sled, together with my riding skills ;) But I like it a lot so I'm trying to make the best out of it.
For starters I've changed to a slide suspension and I can adjust the ski pressure by lifting the front of the suspension. Lowered the suspension a lot to get a lower center of gravity making it a lot less tippy. I have 200+ ice studs in my current track though so it still likes to go straight more than taking corners. For steering I bolted some 4'' 60 degree carbides to the original skis, which does wonders with an unstudded or trail studded track, I may need something more aggressive for the icestudded track though, or more ski pressure. As it's only going to be turning left (ice ovals) I added an extra leaf on the right ski spring, and I flipped the left ski spreader upside down so the sled sits a bit tilted to the left. If you look at @1:30 in this video you'll see only the left ski (seen from drivers perspective) is lifting while the right one stays on the snow, mostly anyway.
I added ski shocks, which really transformed the sled on rougher terrain. It went from completely uncontrollable to being able to go full throttle all the way up a hill.
I know I'm never going to win in the handling department with this thing so my strategy is to make enough power to make up for it on the straights ;)
Thanks very much. I had Olympics and TNT's with the tunnel mounted engines back when they were new! YEP they sure don't like to turn on smooth surfaces. Can't see from the pictures is slider one peice or jointed?
The slides are one piece, off a newer TNT. The split slides are horrible! I have the original ones on my 71 Blizzard. Very heavy and still they bend in every direction possible. But they are cool which kind of makes up for it :)
One more question for ya. Do you happen to have any pictures of drilling a crank/flywheel when you convert from points to cdi? ( to retime )I'm trying to understand the process. Thanks
Sorry don't have any pictures of it. But with this ignition I didn't have to worry about the flywheel, I just use it as a stub to put my trigger strip on.
But I've also converted from Bosch points to a ND CDI. My procedure then was to first find the correct flywheel position, just remove the key, bolt on the flywheel, pull the cord and at the same time check with a timing light how far off it is, then correct until you are close enough. Mark the flywheel so you know where the key is supposed to go and then use a small file to create a new key slot. The flywheel key isn't needed for operation so you could just run without it, the flywheel is held in place by the taper, not the key. So it'll stay put just fine without the key, it's just there to make installing the flywheel easier.
You can put pipes on anything and make it sound fast. I'd like to see it on a radar run. I had a stock 335 could get the skis in the air better than that thing.
You back on track! Great, and the engine sound very gritty . Look it positive..some trouble but the engine still alive..after your quite exstreme tuning.
I want ask timing of your piston ported intake,How much ?
Still perctly simmetric? Or you try some special tips?
Aniway good job!
Yes I'm definitely not complaining! This is an easy fix :)
The intake port is about 168 degrees now, but I'm far from done porting so it's going to get a bit more duration later, I just want to get rid of all the problems first. It'll be around 174-176 degs later. Exhaust port isn't finished either, the transfers are done for now though.
Hollaendaren 😮 Wow, to me, that is a lot of duration. But I find piston port a bit tricky to get a “modern approach value” to since “no” modern racing engine run pp. It’s a case of follow what EngMod says. 👌 I need to get my head around this in the future. The engine sounds promising! 👍
andli461 Stock intake duration is about 165 degrees on these engines and they are pretty low rpm, 7000. And it really likes a bit more duration, up to a certain point where it doesn't make any difference in top power and just makes the curve worse by removing low rpm power. In Engmod 174 seems to give the best result for me, gives a couple more hp on top without stealing too much lower down, and still no problem to start the engine. Obviously it's going to differ from engine to engine and also a lot depends on the application. I have a pretty high engagement speed so power under 7000 rpm is unnecessary.
Thank you! Intake timing make sense of course, and it is yet easy to start. As i notest on other video you race on hillclimb ( some 2014 ) and the engine sounded beautifull ! I like it very much and you was steps ahed in your race class. Very good result!
Finally i want say that sometimes piston port is not far away from reed valve engines in performance in certain application, you run with clutch always in the powerband and at relatively not crazy rpm ( obviously because of the Displacement,Stroke and the masses in general etc. ).
Good luck next time for more testing!
Yes is quite long intake duration for a piston port but can make sense here. A old tips i know about piston port it's give some asymmetric effect playng with conrod/piston offset...unbeliable result!
Interesting in general to research more about the forgoten piston port...100 cc kart ( Pcr,Comer,Parilla) they run with 160 up to 17.000!!
I thought the video was fine. It was real not scripted therefore perfect. That beast brings true meaning "lean is mean" lol it wanted to lift the skis every time you throttled it.
Thanks! No, no scripts here. But every time I'm editing I wish that I would at least think about what the complete sentence I'm about to start with is going to be, before I start speaking ;) There's a lot of pause and "uhhh" removal happening while editing ;)
Would help surely, and steady the cam when you're talking into it from close-by.
I don't want it to be scripted though, because I'm probably not much of an actor and it'd sound like I'm reading you the newspaper. But at least thinking before speaking would definitely speed up the editing process..
This time the cam was my phone ;) Kind of hard to keep it steady, especially with one hand. A heavier camera would probably help but the phone is actually the best camera I have other than the Gopro.
So about this crankcase does the engine vibrate too much is that why it broke or is the rewind just too heavy whats the fix? Very curious. Beautiful running engine and really quick how high did the skiis get off the ground? Atb Russ.
Yeah I think the engine just vibrates too much at idle, the next video is probably going to be modifying the crank balance to try and get the vibrations at a lower rpm. The fix for the recoils housing is going to be to to weld the adapter plate onto the crankcase instead of bolting it on in 3 spots.
The skis got further off the ground than they should already, the suspension is supposed to be setup for ski pressure because it needs to go round an oval track, not do "skeelies" ;) On the 2nd test run after the car passed I had to let go of the throttle because I was on my way into the snow bank and the skis weren't touching the road.
PS Proper welding this time, not JB welding ;)
It ripped on the first run, bugger it cracked the case though.
But like Ive said before, if something breaks after doing performance mods it can often be a good indicator that the engine is producing more power.
Do you think its a crack in the case that let go or maybe you need to beef it up a bit so it doesn't crack again ?
It's definitely at least shaking a lot more than with the stock bore/stroke ;) Which I think is the main reason for this crack. This new crack is not related to the old cracks, it's to the right hand side of the engine where the recoil housing bolts on to the case. The old ones are right in the middle where the conrod is.
But it shakes really bad at idle, I'm going to have to do something about it. It's completely fine once it gets over around 3-4000 rpm but an engine that has bits falling off it while idling is not really ideal. I know my balance factor is 12% now and the stock rotating assembly has around 20% and vibrations at a more practical rpm (around 1000 rpm or thereabout), so I think if I can get it back to at least that it's all going to be good.
Yes I see it is shaking quite a bit at low speed.
I imagine its got a fairly decent vibe through the handle bars at peak power too.
That's the good part, at high rpm it's smooth as a sewing machine! The stock engine is the same, really bad shake at low rpm (but below normal idle speed) but all shaking disappears completely at higher rpm. It seems like the more you rev it, the smoother it gets. Haven't had numb hands ever.
I only have 2 data points, 12% balance factor with shakes at around 2000 rpm, and 20% factor with shakes around 1000 rpm. So I'm thinking that maybe the higher balance factor it has, the lower the shake rpm. Maybe I'm completely wrong here but I guess we'll find out soon.
Hi great job, I cant find if you stroked the crank yourself or bought it already stroked.
I stroked it myself but that was before I started filming stuff :)
I like the mew ski I could not handle all that noise
Hi nico! How did u get the suspension springs up in the tunnel? I'm trying to get my citation suspension in a 72 tnt chassis. I had to shorten the cross bars a little but the springs won't fit I would like to fit them inside like yours. Thanks for any help.
oldsled1 Hmm I can't remember ever having issues with the springs really. It's a bit of a tight fit but they always go in without too much trouble. Maybe your springs are wider than the ones I have? I have no idea what my springs are off of, just picked some from the hoard ;)
Hollaendaren perfect that's what I was looking for thanks so much . That's what I'm trying to do points to nd
Too bad that it cracked but nice to see it move. And it does live, it´s just resting.
Alexander Jäderblom I think the cracking was caused by vibrations on low rpm. It's totally fine on higher rpm but really bad at idle speed, I think I'm going to have to rebalance the crank.
It did vibrate a lot so could be the cause, are you going to have to drill it or add weights? You did talk about having to make a new pipe in an earlier vid, but to me (a novice, if even that..) it seemed to like it, even if it was a bit lean in the video.
Alexander Jäderblom I'm probably sticking with this pipe for now, like you say it doesn't seem to be all that bad.
As for the crank, I'll be drilling holes because I'd need way too much tungsten to change the balance that way, kind of pricey :/
Are you making new videos in this winter?
I will! Just waiting for motivation to come back but it can't be far away now.
E 85..? needs a lot more fuel right..
Yeah, I haven't run it on regular fuel with this setup so I can't directly compare, but I had to resort to drilling my main jet for it to get enough fuel. It used about 14 liters on 25-ish oval laps.
Are you Alive????