How To Replace a Hot Water Heater Drain Valve
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 30. 07. 2024
- Check out how easy it is to replace a water heater drain valve. Is your water heater drain valve leaking or clogged up? Do you have a plastic drain valve? Do you want to replace it with a high quality ball valve? It is easy to change your water heater drain! This video covers detailed instructions on exactly how to replace your water heater drain valve with a reliable valve that won't clog or leak.
Here are links to the parts I used to build my valve in the video:
đ 3/4" Brass Ball Valve: amzn.to/4bRmNac
đ Brass Pipe Nipple: amzn.to/36CFrQq
đ Hose Adapter: thd.co/36sRa48
đ Hose Fitting Cap: amzn.to/36B7Mqv
Don't want to construct your own drain valve out of parts from the local plumbing supply? Here's one I found that should fit most water heaters. Note that these links do not cost you anything extra, but they will send a few pennies to help support this channel.
Water Heater Drain Valve: amzn.to/2NM2OB5
Another Complete Valve With The End Cap Included: amzn.to/2uk6jrn
#WaterHeaterLeak #WaterHeaterFix #ReplaceDrainValve
You can help me with future projects!
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Teflon Tape vs. Joint Compound vs. BOTH? Discuss....
If the pipe dope makes removing the old teflon tape easier to do once the joint is broken, I'm all for it.
Pipe dope, cant ever put too much, it will ooze out. Teflon tape can put too much or too little.
@@Marvinthecoinhunter i like BOTH. Dope will reduce teflon tape damage and make a good seal. Goes in smoother,too.
Use whichever one is closest to your hand. Both is nice, just dont make an extra trip to the store if you're missing one of them.
Here's one for you. In the past I've seen dope, tape and dope again. To each his own I guess.
The part where you started showering to not waste the hot water đ€Łđ€Łđ€Ł totally made my day. Thank you!
Every how-to vid should be this thorough. Most are not -- and set up DIY folks for failure. And a failure with plumbing often equals a mess.
TIP: Although not too critical in this drain application, you should always start Teflon tape with two threads showing at end of male thread. When threading in pipe, any overhang will chop off and Teflon tape remnants will be in system potentially causing problems hanging up in small orifices, seats, etc.
Good tip - thanks for sharing, David!
Itâs also good to leave first couple threads tapeless as it helps to prevent cross threading.
Great comment!
Thank you for this! I didn't know that.
Great video. An idea to consider: it's a great idea to take a little wrench and remove the blue handle from the drain when you're done. Put it and the nut in a baggie and put them on top of the water heater. Why? Because when you or your spouse is working and carrying stuff around, an errant step could easily hit that blue handle and open it all the way or just a little bit. If it's just a little bit, you're going to have a slow leak that might take some time to notice. When you want to drain the tank, you just put the handle and nut back on and drain accordingly and then remove again. Also stops curious little hands from opening the drain.
Great idea. Thanks unclematt!
Very creative DIY solution for the pain I was facing for years. My Kenmore water heater came with a small plastic valve and it was getting clogged every time I was trying to drain my water heater. Following these instructions, I was able to replace it yesterday. What I liked most about the video is the way every details are meticulously covered.
Great job getting yours done!
Great video!! I think putting that cap/plug on at the end is good for the reasons you stated, but also an extra one: safety! While the original valve would be very difficult to accidentally open (and virtually impossible for a very young child/toddler), the ball valve handle is easier to open accidentally (let's say it catches on a piece of clothing or something), and very very easy for a child to open. Depending on the setting of your water heater, it could be very dangerous if a curious toddler got ahold of the handle. However, by putting the cap on (and tightening it well, like you did), you've virtually eliminated that risk. If someone wanted to go the extra mile, they could even get a ball valve that can be locked. Anyway, just pointing out a nice extra benefit of what you did - nice work!
Hi Kronikax - thanks for pointing that out! One other safety step you can take is to simply remove the handle from the ball valve entirely when it's not going to be used. It comes out with a single phillips head screw, and can be stored out of reach of young kids until it's needed. Thanks for watching!
I purchased these components for a brass 3/4" drain. The ball valve cost just under 30 bucks, and the rest of the cost was near 40 bucks, but I considered it an investment. Making life easier sometimes cost a little. And I will get rid of this cheap plastic drain which always been a headache, leaks just enough to be a problem.
You can remove the on/off lever and hang it up on top of heater for safety to prevent kids or accidental opening.
How do I remove the brass cap and chain? I have to take it to be replaced at the big box store
i will make this adaption on each new water heater for the rest of my natural life! a property maintenance dream come true (too bad no plumber i used ever suggested something so simple and smart). such an important improvement for a few dollars. thank you
AmplifyDIY -- i subscribed!
Excellent video, and the parts all laid out with the packaging with the descriptions was very helpful. I just got back from the hardware store and installed the kit in just a few minutes
Thanks for the feedback, and awesome job getting it done!
Always tape and dope is what I was taught, only suggestion I would have for you is when using a pipe wrench is to have it adjusted so that it makes contact on 3 sides of the wrench especially when you have to get it super tight, this prevents collapsing or egg shaping the pipe. Thank you and keep up the good work
Great tip, thanks!
Great idea and great video! If I may make a suggestion though, the 3 inch nipple may be too short (9:02), in other words a 3 1/2 or 4 inch nipple would work better at least in your case. You see, when you need to replace the valve again at whatever time in the future, when you loosen the set up the nipple may not turn together with the valve (most likely what will actually happen) and therefore there won't be much to grab on to it to remove it, at least not without damaging the thread and making it useless (15:02). Just my 2 cents. Good day.
Good info . May change mine soon .
Very clear instructions, confidence-building tone and well produced video. Never had a problem with just the teflon tape. I have found all your videos, that I could use, very useful. Thank you for your tips.
Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to say a big thank you! My relief valve started leaking last week, so what what was going to be an easy relief valve replacement turned into a full overhaul of my water heater. Due to the sediment build up and the ridiculously small drain valve on the water heater it took forever to drain. I ended up replacing the drain valve as well. The flush process went so much faster after replacing that valve with a 3/4" ball valve, and so much more sediment came out. I am actually looking forward to draining and flushing next year :)
Awesome, Michael! Great job!
If you're ever trying to seal fittings for high pressure water sources (~100-120psi), which like me you might get from your city's water supply, you will absolutely want to use both teflon tape and and pipe dope. I learned this the hard way after hours of sweat and labor. With just teflon tape, no matter how much I used or how tight the fitting was, after a minute or two, I'd always notice a small drip forming. Then with just pipe dope, that kind of pressure will actually force some of the dope out through the threads before it can harden and cure. With both however, it has been 100% dry and have I been able to sleep easy.
If the pressure is that high, your supply pipe should have a pressure regulator on it where it comes into the house. I think, it my area, it's required to pass inspection.
@@mrcryptozoic817 Oh I know. I found this out explicitly while installing such a pressure regulator in my older home. đ
So from what my dad told me at night water pressure rises at night and you have less pressure during the day
Dear sir, thanks for this video, I was always annoyed at how the drain valve leaked. I got all the necessary parts and it was easy to replace the old valve with a new full-port valve. Without your video, I don't think I would have ventured to try it.
The drain valve on my water heater has been leaking almost since the day the plumber installed it. It never occurred to me I could replace it with something better. Thanks!
Great Video.
Awesome Demonstration.
Great Idea on the end cap for Safety because you never know when the little kids will go wonder off and start playing with things around the House..
This video helped me tremendously! Had to drain a water heater in a new purchase home to clean and drain after a well repair brought in filthy water. I wasn't confident in doing so until i watched you explain its simplicity. Thanks a million!
Agree with tape and dope. I change these without draining tank. Shut off supply but don't open faucet or PT valve. Have new valve assembled with tape and dope. Pull old valve and insert new and tighten. Very little water will spill out.
Yep
Tip: Take the aerator screen off of your faucet B-4 you purge the tank. Chunks may plug it up.
I need to drain ALL of the tank to replace the valve,in case I break off that plastic valve!DOH!!!!
Thank you so much for the Teflon tape+compound tip - it resolved a persistent minor leak in a fitting. Thank you!
Awesome!
Fantastic thank you. I've seen these full bore valves in other videos but no one showed how to construct one. Thanks!
This video is by far better than several others I've seen, which seem strategically bereft of specifics. Example, one showed the larger valve assembly only after the 4 necessary parts were already purchased, taped and or doped, and screwed in to make one unit. Were they possibly setting things up to show they were far more professional and capable, and so, save yourself the D.I.Y. fail embarrassment before the family panel of judges? Just pay the expert. OR find another video, of more honest and superior quality. DIY with the kindness of details and encouragement. THANK YOU for the Amplify more than Ample D.I.Y. tutoring. SUCCESS AND ADMORATION BY the JUDGES.
You're very kind, Vern. Thank you!
I really appreciate the clarity of each step you explained and the close-up and clear photos of all the details. Great teaching talent here. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much!
Please use more light showing Step by step.was dark couldn't see good what you were doing. Thanks.
VERY useful information with all tips and techniques included! I followed this to a T, including the toothbrush and tape/dope, and it is working perfectly.
Awesome, G! I'm glad it was helpful and is working for you. :)
i just built this for my water heater and man does it work! i was able to pulse the water on and off to stir the tank and i got like 20 buckets of dirty chunky water even some of the large chunks came out that larger ball valve! thanks for saving me a ton of time and prolonging the life of my already 15 year old water heater! still lots to do! but you have helped a TON.
Excellent!
Very helpful video, thank you. I had a plastic valve that was leaking and decided to install a brass valve like this video describes. Everything went well, except the brass valve and nipple was REALLY HOT. This is obvious if you think about it for more than one second, but I guess I hadn't thought about it that long. (Since I was going from plastic to metal this was a concern for me. It might not be a big deal for someone replacing a metal valve.) I would recommend insulating the drain line with some foam or pipe wrap so you don't have someone bump into it or grab hold of it and get a little surprise. Especially with these 3" and 4" nipples that are being discussed.
Great point: The brass will conduct heat very well, so the whole brass valve will heat up. Wrapping it with some foam insulation (or a short section of cut up pool noodle) will keep it from scalding anyone.
Excellent video!!! Love it. Thank you for being super clear, right to the point, and your video production is top notch!
Thank you for the feedback, and I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. You really went into detail on all the things to consider, and I feel confident doing this on my own water heater now.
You can do it!
Agree. Truly confident with instructions.
I went to Home Depot today and purchased what I needed to make the valve for my 40 gal Rheem Water Heater. Presently it has that inferior plastic valve which I hate. I used Blue Monster teflon tape (which is blue) and Blue Monster PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant. I prefer to use both and go the extra mile. I don't like dealing with leaks. Not at all. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your quick respond and I am at work today through mid night and I will send you pictures tomorrow.
Thanks again
Habib
To be honest, I may never attempt this project, but I wanted to compliment you on the quality of this video. Well thought out, narrated and edited. Good audio too. Thanks.
Wow, thank you!
Excellent video. When using a pipe wrench, you should always use a â3 point contact surfaceâ by using the 2 wrench contact pads and the back surface of the wrench so you donât accidentally crush the pipe
Great tip, thanks!
Indeed
Great video! My heater is similar to yours so I did exactly what you did. We get lots of sediment in our heater so I plan to drain it at least every 6 months.
Glad it worked out. Nice job!
18.5 minutes well spent. Thank You. Literally laughed out loud at 1:48. But your point was well taken.
I've seen a couple videos on this. I checked my water heater and it didn't have a place as the other person's video for a backup wrench. I wasn't about to try loosening the valve without a backup until I knew you could remove the valve without a backup wrench. Now I know it can be done without loosening the female end in the tank.
Thanks
Although Iâve never seen or read this technique - it makes sense to me and works so far. 3 wraps of tape on male, a bit more of wrap near the base and just enough dope on female to fill the thread valleys.
I love watching your tutorials, they've helped me so much. You've got the attitude that lets people know that you know what you're doing. Have a great New Year and thank you so much.
Thank you! Happy new year to you as well!
Installing a new water heater this weekend. I will be doing this strait out of the box.
Agreed. Both Teflon tape and Blue Monster Pipe Thread Sealant. For an extremely hot temperature application, like a steam boiler, first apply High Temperature Never-Seize Stainless, (Sometimes this is called nuclear), just coat the threads, don't get carried away. 2nd apply Teflon tape. Then apply the Never-Seize on top of the Teflon tape. Without doing this, whenever you try to remove the fitting, you will be pulling teeth. If you do as I described, the fitting will come out easily. I've done it 1,000's of times and it never let me down. A steam boiler needs to be inspected every year and that involves removing a lot of fittings so the inspector can see inside the boiler and some of the pipes.
Thank you, what a carefully planned and instructive video. After more than a week of dumping a pail of water everyday from the Leakey plastic drain valve on a 7 year old water heater, assuming I needed to replace the entire unit, (and waiting for any plumber to return my call) I now clearly see how basic the repair is and plan to do it today. Iâll let you know how it goes - thanks again, my life is no longer on hold !
Awesome to hear this was useful! Best of luck with your repair. Iâm happy to answer any questions that come up for you. Good luck!
I did it ! Thank you again for providing the thorough instructions ! A few of things I found out: 1) I had the plastic drain valve that had a slow drip and it appears to have a plastic faucet handle - wrong. I tried tightening it to stop the drip without success and when I got to the turning it on to drain I found I needed a screwdriver to actually open the valve. Now that I have it off the âhandleâ I can read the fine print - Open with 1/4â screwdriver, since the valve is at the bottom of the tank itâs tough to read. 2) Although I like your ball valve replacement for a long term fix, Iâm planning to go tankless and just wanted to fix the drip until I get the tankless in the near future. From your video I got the impression that there are a variety of sizes for drain valves because you made the point of sizing your old valve when you went for the new parts. However it appears that 3/4â is the universal water heater drain size. Knowing that I was able to get the part before doing all the draining. I got the Everbilt universal brass drain valve at Home Depot today for $8.58, much better quality than the original equipment plastic valve which was $18 on Amazon. 3) I let the water drain for about an hour, thinking it was almost empty and I made the mistake of reading one of the other commenters where he swaps out drain valves all the time without emptying the tank, stating that not much water comes out. Well obviously heâs a pro and knows exactly what to expect. Iâm not, when I removed the valve a gush of at least two gallons drained out before I was able to install the new one. Lesson learned, short cuts are for pros. Thanks again the drip is history !
PS: I appreciated that you pointed out you did NOT have to turn off the gas, but rather switch it to pilot setting. Other videos have you shutting off gas and then dealing with relighting the pilot, it was nice not adding another unnecessary step.
I'm glad you were able to swap your valve - even though you wound up with several gallons of water on the floor. đŹ Hopefully you have no further issues until you get your new tankless installed. Good luck!
I've done many connections with pipe dope alone. Ive done many connections with Teflon tape alone. In both cases if they leak, tighten them a bit more. I suggest not making things more complex than necessary. If it don't leak... job done.
I went with the 4 inch nipple and it was a perfect fit! Thanks for the help!
P.S Manufacturer recommends just teflon tape đđđ
Thank you for this video. You made the work so simple for me, the setup is top notch and very safe đ
Don't forget to make sure that when you open the ball valve the handle points outward. Check it before you assemble everything or you'll have to take it all apart and start over.
Great tip!
Thanks for this great video. I just replaced t&p valve and the drain valve following your videos. Great info so thanks!
Nice job getting it done!
Youâre video was very helpful. Thank you!!!
So helpful and detailed. Little humor with the shower shot! Thanks much.
I took pics , went to homedepot , bought exactly same items , thank you .
That is awesome!
Just wanted to thank you for going beyond the common instructions of just open a hot faucet to allow air in, and why that might not work. My tank wouldn't drain but it clearly wasn't due to a sediment clog either. When you mentioned that some fixtures just won't allow air to backflow it finally made sense. I disconnected the cold inlet and it drained easily.
Awesome, Jag! So glad it was helpful!
i never though about changing out the drain valve...great idea.. and video! i think this is a good project for me.
I enjoy the presentation very clear and complete. Thank you.
Thanks for your earlier response to my comment on your other vid where I mentioned installing an additional valve on the drain in case you can't fully shut it off after draining the tank. Your solution here is obviously a much more elegant one, and I like the larger valve for sure. I just think for the number of operations it will ever see and for the inexperienced homeowner, just adding a 2nd valve is simpler.
As for the tape & dope question. I don't think I've ever heard that before. Interesting. What I was taught, though, is that when you think you've put enough tape on, double it. I put a lot of tape on and have never had a leak. Cleaner technique, for sure. :)
Hi Rich - interesting strategy with the tape. I've heard that you can overdo it with teflon tape, and that the butter zone is between 4-6 wraps. But I say whatever works for you is the way you should do it. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Exactly. Most people do 2-3 wraps with the tape. Doubling it gives you 4-6, or what I was taught. :)
Great videos. Thanks for all the tips.
I just put in a new hot water heater. Installed a 3/4â full port brass ball valve. I used a dielectric nipple. Reason being is the brass will cause corrosion due to the dissimilar metals. Also, a good idea to install a shut off valve for the hot water line to the water heater
Thank you for this video. Last night the plastic drain cap (doesn't have an actual valve on it, just a plastic fitting with another plastic cap on that) blew off my tank, flooded my downroom, tomorrow morning I'll be headed to the hardware store to get all the pieces I need to replace it and actually have a valve on it. After it blew off, and flooded my downroom, I had to shut my water off to my entire house at the mainline out by the road in front of my house. I was able to put the plastic fitting back on, but it is leaking worse now and since it blew off once, I know I need to replace it again so it I'm not at risk of it blowing again. I try to be pretty independant and I'm not afraid of DIY projects, but I'm always thankful when I can find good videos that allow me to see the whole process and also help me learn alternative ways that can be more efficient when future maintenance needs done. So again, thank you from this DIY widow!!!
I so glad this video was useful for you! Best of luck with the repair. You got this!
@@AmplifyDIY yep, I did it!! And your video is what I give the most credit to, again thank you!!
Fantastic job! I have this exact same water heater. The detail was much appreciated. Well done!
Thanks đ
Really awesome video!! I pretty much made up a rig similar to this for my water heater today.. We've been on fire hydrant bypass water while the main line was being cleaned and lined.. The water the last few weeks has been smelling/tasting a bit metallic and gross.. So I was wanting to drain it out (never have done it) and got a bit worried when I heard the plastic ones can break. Had a smallish leak out of it last night so thought I should prolly upgrade to a full gate valve. The cap is a most excellent touch, the old valve had never been touch and was coated in dust and cat hair. Great video again!! Oh for what it's worth I took your advice with the both teflon and joint compound.. Not something I want to be tinkering with in my lifetime of the house..
Nice! Glad you were able to replace yours - and yeah, you can't go wrong with both teflon and pipe dope. Thanks for watching!
Although the tape and joint pipe dope is a good idea, the compound will get pushed out of the way with the treads tightening instead of sealing the threads. It may be necessary to dope up the female threads as well, not just the male ends. I would like to drain my tank when the women are away for a day or two, and knowing it is a plumbing project, if more than 1 thing can screw up the smooth flow of the project, more than likely it could be 5 things. Ain't plumbing a fine trick on a weekend?? Bob
Great video. This saved me so much money, and I feel at ease knowing that Iâve got a nice new brass ball valve instead of the crappy plastic garbage that comes with the hot water heater. Back up and running good as new. Appreciate this video and all the help you provided in full detail!
Glad it helped!
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. Iâm going to change the valve on my hot water heater this weekend. I think Iâm going to try to make a makeshift suction tube and attach it to a shop vac in order to get as much sediment out as possible. I figure when the valve is removed, that will be the perfect time to do a thorough cleaning.
Good idea! Yes, when the valve is out you'll have the best access into the bottom of your tank... it's still a pretty small hole though - but maybe you have a really thin attachment for your shop vac that can reach in there. Good luck!
Did you ever get this done. I'm looking at putting in a bigger drain valve so I never have to do what you're describing again! I've had my house for 4 years and I just did the following for the second time. I have an old piece of garden hose. Old and pretty stiff. I feed a few inches of it into my shop vac hose and duct tape the crap out of it so the shop vac is pulling through the old garden hose. Then I take out the bottom element (after turning off the power and draining of course). Luckily I can operate my main water inlet from the city from a sitting position right in front of the water heater. I vacuum out the the water and sediment. Then I fill the water heater up to just below the bottom element hole and vacuum again. And again. And again. As I remove sediment I fill the water heater with less and less water. Constantly taking the filled up shop vac bucket out and dumping it. I've tried both vacuuming out "dry" sediment and constantly adding more water to the sediment. My sediment chunks are frickin huge. When I tried to vacuum them up dry they instantly clogged the end of my garden hose so I'd have to clear the end non stop. Adding water helped to kind of thin the mix I was sucking out. But I did have to go dump many buckets of water. I do this for about an hour and it's not fun. When I'm done I end up with a five gallon bucket over half full of this white seashell crap! I really hope a wide open valve like this will prevent me from having to do my process again!
Excellent video! I'm a licensed Mechanical PE and DIY'r but that does not make me a plumber. I really appreciated that you explain WHAT you did but also WHY. It really helps when my configuration does not exactly match yours. Kudos
Glad it was helpful, Mark!
I want to thank you âŠ. First time Iâve done something like this and you gave me the confidence to do it!!!!
Nice job getting it done!
This is excellent and addresses a recurring problem for us.
Teflon tape: Hint: đšđđđđđ hold the tape with your left hand and turn the pipe with your right hand. It's easier to roll the pipe away from you and that happens to be clockwise. If you switch off between left or right randomly, you'll lay the Teflon backwards sometimes and wonder why it leaks.
Good tip, thank you!
thats the right way to install the valve! I wanted to do the same on mine when I installed a NEW water heater, except the original valve is plastic and wouldn't budge! so I left it... 7 years later, and I just had to replace the heating elements.... now to try to upgrade the drain!
I hate those flimsy little plastic valves! Best of luck getting yours upgraded!
I was always taught that pipe dope was a sealant and tape was a lubricant. Use them both for a good sealed joint.
You are a great educator!
Very informative! Thanks for posting this.
Thank you. I drained my water tank and it took about an hour because of the sediment. It was draining slowly and there were times I had to use an air compressor to clear it.
.
After it was drained, I was afraid to change the valve like you did, but you have me a little confidence to do it when I drain it the next time.
I have built one similar to yours for my water heater a few years ago.
Nice video, thanks from another DIYer.
Ahhhhgggg. I've been putting the teflon tape on backwards. Thanks for the great lesson on doing it right. You are the first one I have seen using the hot water instead of just draining it all. I would do a shower and or load of laundry to use it up. Then if there is a glitch in fixing something, at least I am clean with clean clothes!
Thanks, IslandGal!
Great video......followed it exactly with great success..... thank you
Thank you for this video.
The original spout is just trash and used the exact same setup as you without the cap.
Home depot ran out of caps for some odd reason haha.
Flushed it again with new part and a lot more sediments flushed out.
Teflon tape was the only thing I used on my threads.
No leaks.
Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
Thx. Very Much. Really good explanation of functions. I have electric one. Phoenix AZ. So far so good. We practically turn ours off in the summer. đđ€đ I'm behind draining it this year. So just finishing up. T.Y.
Thank you very much for your video. It helped me fix the leaking problem in the drain valve. I found the SKU exactly in the Home Depot.
Excellent! I'm so glad to hear it helped. Thanks for watching!
A ball valve for a drain valve is a great idea!
Open port bell valve. Be sure to specify.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Great video!! Just did mine and the way you walked through it was perfect.
Great job!
wonderful video. worked perfect today.
Great video...the part number links are great...my plastic valve drips..gonna replace it with the set up you listed..thanks for sharing your information..
Best of luck! I'm happy to answer any questions that come up for you.
Great video, Hope mine goes as well lol. I was a natural gas piper for a while and we used pipe and dope, now i work for a gas utility company and we use only dope on gas pressures up to 5 pounds. thanks for building my confidence
Tape for installing faucets -- 1/2" and 3/8", for convenience and neatness. Dope for running supply lines 1/2" and up. If you want to put tape on 3/4" pipe, it needs to be thicker tape.
Great video clip, clearly instruction. One thumb up and subscribed
Did this today! My factory valve was gummed up with sediment. The flow after was awesome
Fantastic, Joseph! I'm glad it worked well for you!
Great video. I've read some guides recommending a dielectric nipple to avoid corrosion. But it looks like the one you removed wasn't plastic coated (dielectric).
Thank you so much for this video. Great advice !!!
I bought all the parts to do this on my 5 year old rheem water heater. New valve is assembled. Just have to find time this weekend to put it in
Good idea
Great video, with demonstration! Sweet!!!!
Very clear thanks
It it very clear and nice instruction. Thank you.
Thanks once again... Youâre videos are really help full and easy to follow band understand!!! Iâll suscribe on your Chanel now!!
Great video, thank you.
Great video my cheap plastic drain valve has just started to leak my new one will be like yours.Thanks
Those cheap little plastic drains are terrible, right? I'm glad this video was useful for you - I'll be happy to answer any questions you run into building and installing your replacement valve. Thanks for watching!
After installing the new valve with a larger orifice...I think it would have been a good idea to partially fill, agitate and drain the tank again to ensure any remaining sediment that couldn't fit through the smaller factory valve is flushed.
Great idea, mbcris. Thanks!
Again, excellent video...
Decades ago, when I owned my own house, and I had to replace the water heater, I replaced the plumbing going to the water heater and installed globe valves on both the supply and discharge pipes, with a third valve on the down-flow side of the globe valve.
That way I could completely isolate the water heater from the house plumbing entirely and allow air into the water heater for draining. With the aid of a union so the drain valve could easily be disconnected from the water heater, I installed a drain valve and plumbed it so that the water would drain out the side of the house. That way if I needed to replace the water heater again I could turn off the water and immediately open the drain valve and the air valve and allow it to drain. This setup also enabled me to periodically open the drain valve at will to flush out any sediment before it had a chance to build up any troublesome amount in the tank.
I also bought several sacrificial rods and stored them next to the water heater and replaced the rod every few years just to insure that it was always in good enough condition to protect the tank from electrolysis.
We have hard water where i live so doing regular maintenance on water heater is a must. Replaced the crappy small bore drain with 3/4" and it's made all the difference. Easy to flush the scale out now....before the scale used to clog the drain and take over an hour to drain....plus it wouldn't flush the scale out anyway. You must do this if u want to keep ur heater running longer and saving some money
The suggestion of "burping" the tank with the over-pressure valve is terrific. I would not have thought of it.
I like it all you explain....thanks so much sr
HEY! Changing to the ball valve worked awesome! Thanks!!!!
Great to hear!
@@AmplifyDIY Warning, when changing to a ball valve and the tank is full, hang on to that hose tight when you go to flush. WOW!