Agree with S. Ali, haven't you compromised the vapour barrier and insulation by cutting the holes you have for the lights. Moisture will certainly seeps through and will gather on the underside of the cold roof/decking. Defeats the object of insulating and fixing a vapour barrier. I think you're supposed to use a special tape on the timbers which seal around ant screws/staples. The only way to have downlights is to drop the ceiling. Look at Steve Roofer's channel. Very informative.
Looks a great job lads. Only question would be if you drill the holes for the downlights that would penetrate the vapour barrier so how would you get around that?
Looking really good bro, I’m making a 5x4mtr building the exact same way, watching you makes me feel I’m doing the right thing, keep up the graft solider 💪🏽. Bless 😎
Greetings! In regards tonthe ceiling.. Did you not use any foil tape on the seams (insulation to rafters) because you're using a vapor barrier? Are both foil tape for seams and a vapour barrier necessary or either one or the other is fine? Give thanks
Hi Darren, have you considered just building these rooms in a cavity wall construction? (Two skins of blockwork) I know you would lose some space, but i think it would be quicker and cheaper to build. The speed blockwork goes up at and you would be insulating as you build with glass wool, which is cheaper than rigid. You would also cut out all the batten work. Just thinking out aloud really, whats your thoughts?
Hi Dean, It doesn’t, same way putting holes in insulation a doesn’t negate it. You will always have to have some level Of intrusion in the vapour barrier as there is no way around it but it Will do it’s job on 99% of the areas needed.
@@darrenthebuilder It is possible to wire it without penetrating the barrier by wiring surface on beams and noggins across if needed then covering wiring with second plasterboards over the first covering the gaps. Problem is of course the added expense of plasterboard but ensures the roof sealed.
@@deanholloway7755 Wouldn't be worth the extra cost of effort and the issue is office buildings tend to be restricted to 2.5 meters total height. A vapour barrier with some holes in it is still 95% effective
@@darrenthebuilder My initial interest was and is a genuine request for an understanding of the use of the membrane. I am a qualified plumber ( not gas Safe ) and spark 17 edition ( too old to update now) and have had to build a single storey extension to the side of my house as timber frame due to covenants in deeds. I had to use cold roof due to further restrictions on height. Everything is restrictions these days. Anyway I had been looking at loads of videos such as London Roofing and Skill Builder etc and they all basically say cold roofing is a big no no unless you go to great lengths to get airflow and also scream about perforating the membrane. When you replied with the question I replied to your specific job and understand that point about screws which is impossible to avoid and can only be negated partially by using a sealer between boards and membrane. As you said that it's not as important as these other videos make out and indeed someone else has also commented as such I have decided to do as you have except for the size of the holes for the wiring. I shall be bringing the cable in the cavity and along noggins and drop them through so holes are maybe 15mm in membrane and board with sealer put into these holes to seal as best as possible. Obviously I am not using sunken spots but if I were they believe they make special ones for such cases. I like you and as mentioned above know you cannot put a ceiling up without putting holes in membrane but believe that as they go straight into the beams and are in effect compressed little moisture is going through there and will not be sealing. I would like to thank you for your initial video as it is the only one to not make a drama out of the problems of cold roofing construction and membrane integrity.
Agree with S. Ali, haven't you compromised the vapour barrier and insulation by cutting the holes you have for the lights. Moisture will certainly seeps through and will gather on the underside of the cold roof/decking. Defeats the object of insulating and fixing a vapour barrier. I think you're supposed to use a special tape on the timbers which seal around ant screws/staples. The only way to have downlights is to drop the ceiling. Look at Steve Roofer's channel. Very informative.
Looks a great job lads. Only question would be if you drill the holes for the downlights that would penetrate the vapour barrier so how would you get around that?
Thank you for posting this video. I wonderd what a moisture barrier was, and now I know. Thanks guys.
Looking good ,it's all coming together .👍👍
Looking really good bro, I’m making a 5x4mtr building the exact same way, watching you makes me feel I’m doing the right thing, keep up the graft solider 💪🏽. Bless 😎
exciting progress today. Thanks for explaining the wood panels on the back wall
You’re welcome 😊
Loving the progress. I was wondering why you put timber on one side of the wall but client will be hanging stuff. Great bit of knowledge.
How is the vapour barrier going to work if you made holes in it for the lightning
Massive amounts done today , looking good. Still amazes me how you find the light cables once the plasterboard is up .
I always draw a sketch and measure the Exact locations and then mark them on the drawing so I can remark them on the ceiling after plastering.
nice job mate, your always nice and tidy when you work, i find being like that keeps my head straight i hate working in mess. 👍
Thanks, it is really about headspace 👍🏾
He looks like a good worker. Glad you have some help; hard to do alone, for sure. Enjoyed this very much. Thank You.
Hello bro. Almost every day i look your program. I'm the netherlands. Keep on going bro. I like it verry mutch. Regards Mr Shai
good work as ever, unusual to see a letter box in an outhouse door!
Good point lol I didn’t realise myself.
Greetings! In regards tonthe ceiling.. Did you not use any foil tape on the seams (insulation to rafters) because you're using a vapor barrier?
Are both foil tape for seams and a vapour barrier necessary or either one or the other is fine?
Give thanks
What is the purpose of the vapour barrier
4:32 your mans over here drilling into thin air. haha
Brilliant work gents 👍👌
Thanks
Hi Darren, have you considered just building these rooms in a cavity wall construction? (Two skins of blockwork)
I know you would lose some space, but i think it would be quicker and cheaper to build. The speed blockwork goes up at and you would be insulating as you build with glass wool, which is cheaper than rigid. You would also cut out all the batten work.
Just thinking out aloud really, whats your thoughts?
Think he mentioned before that the issue is it takes up too much space
Would probably be a bit cheaper and better insulated but still many draw backs
You've made holes in the vapour barrier overtime that will cause water seepage...
dont you need noggings in to catch the top and bottom of plasterboard ?
You don’t need that. Rafters are spaced at 400mm centres which is fine and standard for plasterboard edge. Just tape joints and skim 👍🏾
Why have you put a vapour barrier to ceiling and put holes in it for the lighting cables. Doesn't this negate the barrier?
Hi Dean, It doesn’t, same way putting holes in insulation a doesn’t negate it. You will always have to have some level
Of intrusion in the vapour barrier as there is no way around it but it
Will do it’s job on 99% of the areas needed.
@@darrenthebuilder
It is possible to wire it without penetrating the barrier by wiring surface on beams and noggins across if needed then covering wiring with second plasterboards over the first covering the gaps. Problem is of course the added expense of plasterboard but ensures the roof sealed.
You mean having two ceilings?
And how to you screw your ceiling without piercing the VB?
@@deanholloway7755 Wouldn't be worth the extra cost of effort and the issue is office buildings tend to be restricted to 2.5 meters total height.
A vapour barrier with some holes in it is still 95% effective
@@darrenthebuilder
My initial interest was and is a genuine request for an understanding of the use of the membrane. I am a qualified plumber ( not gas Safe ) and spark 17 edition ( too old to update now) and have had to build a single storey extension to the side of my house as timber frame due to covenants in deeds. I had to use cold roof due to further restrictions on height. Everything is restrictions these days. Anyway I had been looking at loads of videos such as London Roofing and Skill Builder etc and they all basically say cold roofing is a big no no unless you go to great lengths to get airflow and also scream about perforating the membrane.
When you replied with the question I replied to your specific job and understand that point about screws which is impossible to avoid and can only be negated partially by using a sealer between boards and membrane.
As you said that it's not as important as these other videos make out and indeed someone else has also commented as such I have decided to do as you have except for the size of the holes for the wiring. I shall be bringing the cable in the cavity and along noggins and drop them through so holes are maybe 15mm in membrane and board with sealer put into these holes to seal as best as possible. Obviously I am not using sunken spots but if I were they believe they make special ones for such cases. I like you and as mentioned above know you cannot put a ceiling up without putting holes in membrane but believe that as they go straight into the beams and are in effect compressed little moisture is going through there and will not be sealing.
I would like to thank you for your initial video as it is the only one to not make a drama out of the problems of cold roofing construction and membrane integrity.
A good days work guys the room is looking good.
Terrible. That vapour barrier will do a shit like that.