1962 18HP JOHNSON EXHAUST GASKETS REPAIR
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- čas přidán 1. 04. 2018
- 1962 18HP JOHNSON OUTBOARD. NEW EXHAUST COVER GASKETS & MID SECTION GASKETS. EASTER MORNING.
FOLLOW THE REAL LIFE SAGA OF THIS OLD OUTBOARD,
RESURRECTING SMALL OUTBOARD MOTORS - Zábava
Watching this video came to me the question if my old 1956 Johnson has or not a thermostat. So I pause the video and went to take a look. As I remember it doesent have one, but I found a big residue of salt over the cooling exaust cap; just like one of the gaskets you repair.
So "here we go again with this old outboard. You never know what will happen next"!
Eventhow it was also planed to change the driveshaft for making it short shaft.
Very good video Sir! I am learning a lot for future old outboards repairs!
👌
Thanks! Awesome video, many thanks.
Hey. thanks! Stay tuned !
Love your videos!
thanks!
I just got a 18hp FD-13 Johnson Seahorse FREE. I'm. Doing a complete. Rebuild on it first time. Thanks to your VIDEOS 👍👍🍻
kool man. let me know if I can help out in any way. thx. Stay tuned !
Thank you for responding. I have never set the timing on thease. Before. Thanks again 👍🍻
@@omargonzalez1413 Hey. No problem. Setting the timing is easy. Check out www.leeroysramblings.com, everything you need to know is here. The same applies for all motors. Thanks, Stay tuned !
I like the little water pump you put in the back of your boat. With all the rain you get there it must work out nicely.
It does! Thanks again !
That's. Some good old school music in the back ground.
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!
Enjoy your show.
I've used a couple dowel pins screwed into the power head to guide her into position. Dowel pins; extra bolts a couple inches longer, with the heads cut off and a slot cut in the end for a screw driver. Careful to put the dowels in a place you have clearance to get them get out after the head seats.
Hey. kool man. I'll have to give it a try next time. Thanks for watching and commenting . Stay tuned !
Thanks for the video!! also i love the cussing at the motor hahaha
Hahaha Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Good video... He reminds me of me, especially around 18:15 in the video lol.
Hahaha. 👍 Thanks for watching and commenting . Stay tuned !
watching you with those screws reminds me about spray on freeze i told you about on another show if you ever try it you want be with it
Thanks. I will try it next time I need it
You sound just like me when I’m working on mine swearing and yelling I got a hand held impact driver at China freight works good to smash and unlock stuck bolts my old man gave me a good lesson on how to get them out as well
Still waiting on the 9.5 shaft to come out it’s hanging off a tree now trying to get the shaft off lol
👍 good idea
I use an impact screwdriver for stubborn bolts whenever I can't or won't use a torch for heating it.
Yeah. I've destroyed about 4 of those over the years! Hahaha Harbor Freight stuff! Gotta "Heat & Beat" around here, another saying I have is there's no corrosion like Florida corrosion! Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Mine runs in the Baltic Sea...saltwater is a bitch. ;)
So whenever I put something together again it's grease, grease, and grease. :)
Thanks for educating and entertaining. I have an 1965 Evinrude Fastwin 18HP, have you ever heard of back grinding where the clutch dog meets the forward and reverse gears to prevent slipping out of gear? And is there anyway to tell if a used lower unit is still in spec before buying?
HEY. THANKS . no I never heard of back grinding the dog. I would imagine it would have to be very precise. I have heard of just turning the dog around if its slipping in forward gear because you dont use reverse to often or in high rpm's. As far as telling if a gear case is still good , best you can do is check the oil for water and shift it through the gears, but you wont really know until you get it on the water. I've been pretty lucky so far!
Turning the dog around sounds like a 3 beer operation, ya got a video for that?
hahaha . not yet! but i got one for a thermostat housing head cover broken bolt coming up next ! STAY TUNED
Awesome videos. I have an fd-9 d which I believe is a 1965 18 hp. Alot like yours. It sat for years before I got it. It was my uncles and he said it needed an impeller. I got a new one, put it on, and within 20 pulls it started. At first ran rough almost like 1 cylinder not firing or something. After a minute or 2 it started idling good. I was running in a garbage can of water. First question is in neutral how much water should flow out? Gas mixture 50:1??? And the water had alot of oil in it. Is that normal or is there an issue here?? I am no very knowledgeable hear and could really use help. Also all I did was drop lower unit to change the impeller and when I separated it there was a o ring that fell out.(about 1/2 dia o ring) it was broke..... the video I followed on what I did I followed step by step and it never showed an o ring so I am wondering if you have any idea what that is??? I know these are old videos but hope you can still help me. You really know these things.
Hey Jarold. Thanks for watching and commenting. As the motor warms up and the thermostat starts to open the amount of water coming out will increase. Its hard to say how much, but it will be alot more as it opens, you should be able to see the process happen if the thermostat is working. Yes 50:1. Oil in the water is unburned fuel/oil mix, adjust the slow speed needle valve on the carb. The o-ring goes around the top of the driveshaft. My advice would be, go to marineengine.com and look up your model, the schematics will show you what goes where. Do a compression test. Do a spark test. Replace spark plugs. Remove and clean the carb and new kit, replace the old thermostat, remove the flywheel and inspect ignition parts. Clean/reset the points, replace if worn/burnt. Replace condensers. Replace coils if cracked or weak spark. Give it a super tune-up! Check out leeroysrambling.com. Thats where I learned everything. He has sections on the 18hp's but focuses more on 15hp's but everything 15hp, also applies to the 18hp. Tune ups, How to's and trouble shooting. I luv the 18's! Probably my favorite small Outboard. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Enjoyed the video! How do you remember all that stuff? Did you teach yourself or classes? Impressive!! Thanks
Hey. Thanks. Yes, just taught myself, sometimes I think I've forgotten more than I've ever learned ! Hahaha . Thanks again . Stay tuned !
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. I have a 1964 Johnson 18hp that's giving me fits. I can't seem to get it to idle for much more than 5 seconds. I've been through the carb twice and it's clean as a whistle, float is set flush with the gasket, low speed idle needle backed out 1.5 turns from seated (I've unsuccessfully tried playing with it both a little more and a little less). I've rebuilt the fuel pump and replaced all fuel lines from the tank to the carb. It's got good spark, good fuel, and good compression. Anyhow, I've discovered a leak at the base gaskets that you replaced. Would/could this leak cause a vacuum issue.....thus my rough idle, enough so that the motor shuts off?
Any help you can shed is very much appreciated. Thank you.
Hey. No, the base/powerhead to mid section gasket leak should not have any effect on idle. If its a black wet leak, thats unburned fuel. If its sucking air it will be on the intake side and/or crankcase. Carb to intake gasket , intake manifold to crankcase gasket , bad reed valves , upper crankshaft seal, these type of things . Will it run if you pull the choke at half position or more? Is the fuel pump old or new style? If New, When you rebuilt it are you sure you put it together in the correct configuration? Pump test, fill the carb bowl with gas, pull the fuel line to the carb off, start the motor and the fuel should come shooting out from the pump in a hard pulsating stream. Check your pump gasket to crankcase for leaks. Is your fuel tank cap vent Open? Is your timing on the throttle cam in the correct setting? Carb timing set, when the roller hits the marks on the cam the carb butterfly should just be starting to open. Carb slow speed needle set, One and a half turns out from seated will get it started but still needs to be Dialed In, slowly turn the needle clockwise until it idles up, (I know its hard to do if it wont stay running) could be as much as 3/4 of a full turn, providing the motor is running, keep slowly turning it until the motor ''coughs'' and jerks, than back the needle out 1/4 turn, in this position will be your best setting give or take a little. Dial it in. Do you have a good/new slow speed needle retainer installed? Ok, there's a few things to check, but never assume anything with these thing, I had the same problem with a beautiful 90's 25hp. It would only idle if I held two fingers over the carb like a choke. I cleaned that carb 4 times it looked brand new. I was sure the problem wasnt with the carb. After pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong I swapped out the carb with an old 70's carb I had and it purred like a kitten. I was shocked! Couldn't believe it. Totally convinced there was nothing wrong with that carb. Glad I didn't take that motor apart. Let me know how it goes. Thanks. Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back with you. Update!
I went back through the carb one more time and really poured over blowing out and cleaning out every single passage and jet. I found what I suspect to be bad packing material around the low speed idle needle. I replaced these while going through the carb one last time. I got the motor to fire back up and idle until I stopped it (about 5 minutes). I messed around with the low speed adjustment, but it's just not quite right. Every 10 seconds or so the RPMs will pick up, then the motor "coughs", and the RPMs drop back down. This repeats about every 10-15 seconds. I'm thinking a small vacuum leak somewhere; possibly between the intake and powerhead? I know the gasket between the carb and intake is good. Any advice you could offer is very much appreciated. Thank you for everything!
@@DontjeB Hey. You can spray carb cleaner or starting fluid around the intake gasket while it is running and see if the RPMs pickup. Then you'll know if its sucking air. You can also try and close the choke a little bit at a time until you reach a good steady idle, if that works and you get a good steady idle with no coughs chances are there is no air leak and its still a fuel issue. When you cleaned the carb, did you clean the slow speed ''jet holes'', cant think of the technical term for them but in the throat, towards the back on the top are 2-3 little holes where the slow speed needle ends, and meters the fuel coming through the holes for idle. I usually take a small paperclip and poke it in each hole then spray carb cleaner through them and let it run out the other end where you screw the needle in. If your blowing it out from just the screw in end you could be blowing stuff in the jets and it never comes out. Hope that makes sense !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1
Final Update: She's Alive!
I did what you said and went back through and poked out the small holes in the throat of the carb. Same symptoms persisted. I went back through all the fuel lines and found debris (must have been from the tank) caught in the fuel filter. This restricted the pump enough that it wasn't getting proper fuel to the carb. I cleaned everything out from the tank to the carb one last time and she runs smoothly. Thank you so much for the help and guidance. I really appreciate it. I'll stay tuned to your channel for more content!
@@DontjeB Sweet ! "'never assume anything'' ! Hahahaa Glad to hear it. Thanks !
I need the bottom gasket where can I find it do u have a part number
Thanks for watching ! www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1962&hp=18&model=FD-16&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Lower+Unit+Group
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I'm working on one of these right now, had a water pumping issue after a new pump and thermostat. Pure luck before I pulled the lower unit again, I notice four of the seven power head bolts are completely gone. I believe the gasket is shot and my exhaust is pushing into the water outlet and maybe even the inlet.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 correct that the 7/16 bolt was missing also so only two loose ones holding down the power head...
i clean those bolts up get as much grease off as i can then chuck them in that rust-away stuff for 30 minutes... come out looking like new! if they are still stiff going in just wire brush with a drill
Hey. Never heard of that stuff, where did you get it. thx
Go to Harborfreight and buy a hand impact driver use it once pays for itself.I have three... Glenn in N.Y.
👍thanks. one of these days !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Ever need parts let me know I have over 100 antique motors and lots of 50S,60S,70S 5.5HP -25HP parts.Been collecting and mechanic for years Glenn in N.Y.
Hey THISOLDOUTBOARD!! I have removed so many side covers I never break those 1/4 20 screws.Plenty of heat and patience and a good quality impact screwdriver I get them all out. Like you I hate to drill the heads off and stepdrill to #7 drill and tap out the old screw. I went to Lowes recently and bought there biggest screwdriver they had it was $12 works great very long maybe 30 inches and has square shank for the wrench.By the way also I just learned something new those screws are called cheesehead screws and are available online McMaster Carr in New Jersey has them for one Glenn in N.Y.
Shmutz. I looked that up in the Webster's and it defined it as what creates a "turdsicle". A turdsicle is a stalagmite type structure that forms in an Outhouse in below freezing temps. AKA a frozen pile of shit!!! LMAO!
LMAO2!
slight error on other comment should read you want be with out it.
Thanks
At least it's not metric...!
Thanks for tuning in! Just catching up!