Build Your Own Sliding Carriage Panel Saw
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- čas přidán 14. 11. 2017
- Find the detailed building plans for this Sliding Carriage Panel Saw here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/s...
Cutting plywood panels is a snap with this Sliding Carriage Panel Saw from ShopNotes #88, and the clever design allows it to fit in a small shop by using only 10 feet of wall space.
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I used to use a metal version of these at the lumberyard I worked at in the early 90s. Great invention.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection czcams.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
I so need to make one of these. Our local builders supplier has these for cutting sheet wood to size for customers. It would be so much cheaper to make one then buy commercially made ones, that are nearly £2000. This method is like the commercially made ones and looks as good and uses less wall space, but then you need to make the sliding mechanism and adapt it to move the saw by 90° and keep it accurately square which could be tricky. I'd prefer to make one like that, but if you have more wall space to spare, then a way I thought of, would be to use more wall space but have the saw so it can only slide vertically and cuts the risk of wear and movement building up, causing you to not cut squarely. The carriage would be permanently fixed so it can't slide sideways, but the saw can go vertically on it. That would mean you'd get accurate vertical cuts each time. You would then just slide a sheet of plywood or whatever, on to the board saw, behind the carraige, either horizontally or vertically, position it where you want the cut, maybe have some way of clamping the sheet from moving, especially if it's smaller pieces, then just cut it. I think you could get away with a wall space of 12ft by 9ft with this method. It means using more wall space but it's less complicated with making the carriage for the saw. There's obviously pro's and con's with both methods though.
I made one attached to the wall of my garage. My design allows you to cut an 8ft panel vertically so that you don't have to move the saw in two orientations. This greatly simplifies things and you only need a little over 8ft horizontal wall space. The saw runs up and down on two 1" square metal tubes. I made a cement weight as a counter balance for the saw. It is accurate to about 1/16" to 1/8" over 8 ft. so I break down a panel a little large and then cut it to finished dimensions on my tablesaw.
Sounds great! Thanks for sharing/
That's similar to what I did. But I actually hinged the whole table from the roof so It's out of the way most of the time. Then it hinged onto a trestle at an angle so the panel stays put. Then I had a fixed pulley at the top of the table with a rope going from the sled through the pulley and to the bottom of the table. which I would use to lower the saw under it's own weight to make the cut. Then hoist the saw back up to the top, and with a loop in the rope to put it on a hook to hold it up the top.
I don't want to sound too picky...I can cut using a 2x4 that's been jointed as a saw-guide and get a cut that's within 1/16" to 1/8" over 8'. The purpose I intend for creating a panel saw is to make cuts and use a router with accuracy of less than 1/16" deviation over 8', or else is it a worthwhile use of time to begin with?
For cabinetry and even grneral carpentry, it's best to eliminate error as much as possible, as it will always add up into cummulaive error. Each step in a project is an opportunity to do a better job.
@@TSPhotoAtlanta For my home shop, the problem is maneuvering a 4x8 sheet, especially when the only help for holding the other end is my wife. In the summer I can set up some saw horses outside but I can't do that for many months where I live. Being able to go directly from the truck to the panel cutter in my garage is convenient even if it's only a rough cut. With more manageable pieces, I can then make accurate cuts on my table saw.
Brilliant
extraordinario,fantástico y muy practico
What stops the upper cutoff bit of wood from pinching the blade as the cut progresses ?
A build video for this panel saw would be beautiful! 😍
Desde Palmira Colombia 😍👍🤗😲😍
Great Build
Seen the pic and Came and liked. I know its fantastic and youre a great bloke for showing others. Now i will watch the vid, Ok ... Well done sir.
Awesome, thank you!
Very good idea
I want to modify something like this to fit an old Skil Builders Line, Skilsaw 4 1/2 " Model 504 that I picked up in almost new condition. This Covid lockdown has been good for some creative thought.
I bought a project with you guys and no but I work with laminated mdf and I did not see a system that attaches the plate and does not allow vibrations, will I get a perfect cut?
Very nice design! I love the fact that you can crosscut and rip, very well thought design. Just remember to put a couple of wedges when ripping to prevent the kickback
We actually clamped the upper portion to frame to prevent pinching, but wedges always work too.
Don’t need wedges just put pressure with your hand on the board towards the end.
They dont kick back. I used to cut down 3/4" mdf to build subboxes ive never see one kick back, in fact they can't. If you understand kick back youd know why.
Kickback is caused when your part lifts up the tail end of a table saw blade,
Becuse the wood is on its side the most youll do is pinch or bind the blade, thats not kickback. But ive never seen a blade bind durring a cut one one of these and I used one for 7 years. You dont need wedges they have riving knifes or splitters to control that built in.
@@bobbg9041 it won't kick back but is will wreck the wood even if it is clamped. The force of the cut is pulling the wood off the back support. The blade rotation is going backwards for the application. See my previous comment.
Muy buena y practica
Bom video.
Obrigado.
Although a table saw would be nice, I love this idea of a panel saw. this would take up less room in my garage being I live in an apartment..
So would a really good vintage radial arm saw, and you can do a LOT more with it than just cuts at 0 or 90 degrees. Watch Craigslist and FB marketplace for an older DeWalt or, better still, a Delta.
Track saw.
@@theprojectproject01 agreeded but a track saw takes up even less space. I own 2 ras and love them but I'm not about to run sheet goods with one.
And for that fact you can find plenty of portable table saws that take up very little space. I also own 2 cabnit table saws and a portable type.
Each tool has its best uses. Full sheets are better handled on machines that support the full sheet.
If you've ever tried to cut a 4x8 3/4"mdf you'd know it is very bulky and heavy to deal with. Downbright dangrous if its not supported durring the cut.
Hi nicely done, and how good/stiff the overlapping castle is, after you trimmed it diagonal?
That's really great!
Thanks!
I wonder how the conduit holds up with the steel ball bearings repeatedly rolling back-and-forth on it. I think standard linear rail tracks are typically made of harden steel to resist wear.
Does the saw blade guard get removed for this build? If not, how do you engage it as you begin the cuts?
It'd be nice to see a full build video of this project. I bought these plans years ago and have them somewhere. I fully intend to build it some day when I have an actual shop to work in with adequate space. It would be a great addition to the equipment I have.
Yeah, this project has been really popular so it has been on our radar to do a build video. I'll put it on the list and hopefully we can get to it soon.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Awesome.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine We’re still waiting for this build series.
@@mikejarves7611 - I know… unfortunately, we’re still trying to catch up on the backlog of video we’ve wanted to shoot due to the pandemic.
I want to make one... I used skateboard bearings in a rolling barn door I made. Cheap and it rolls like butter. Anyway, this gives me some ideas on a planning sled I want to make.
Looking forward to seeing yours, Keep me posted please. Thanks
@@BaccaratBaccaratato I'd be more than happy to. I don't know how to direct msg anybody on here so I could just post it to your discussions board. I'm just not sure if you're referring to this panel saw or my planing sled I'm going to make first.
@@boboconnor1403 Thank you Bob. Looking forward to both. Cheers
@@boboconnor1403 yes looking forward to both your design. Send me details of you can. I like it simple. Nick.airtechllc@gmail.com
buena la guía. pero quita mucho espacio 7 de calificación
One of the best idea ... Don't need big space .... Like table saw ... I m going to make 4ft by 8ft size
Thanks! Let us know how it goes.
That's cool if you use some long threaded rods and stepper motors can make the cut automated and precise
@Michael D Let's see some plans & material sources! Thst sounds cool
This is just a cnc router with extra steps 😅
Do we now have a new video for the build of this panel saw?
Wouldn't cutting horizontally increase the chance of binding/kickback? I know it's secured down but it could still damage the workpiece of give you a good scare.
Hi Franklin - Cutting horizontally does increase the chance of kickback, however with the work piece secured down and a long rip as shown, the blade has enough room that it doesn't get pinched like you would think. I certainly wouldn't try to rip a short piece on any panel saw, but in our experience (both with this Shop Notes version and industrial models that we have in our shop) ripping long, full length sheets is doable with proper precautions.
A simple solution to prevent kickback is to insert a couple of shims as you cut.
@# Mac , especially the part above your cut!!
Dust collection would be a major upgrade, I think...
If this is rebuilt, it would be interesting how you will incorporate that.
Great point. Thanks for the idea.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine
@wiedapp
It would be really simple if you just buy a circular Plunge/Track Saw that has a built in dust port.
Some standard circular saws also come with dust ports or optional dust port attachments that connect to the upper rear blade guard.
I use the lightweight "sub compact" Makita # XSH04ZB 6.5" 18v cordless circular saw in my DIY panel saw. It comes with a dust extraction port.
www.amazon.com/Makita-XSH04ZB-Sub-Compact-Brushless-Circular/dp/B072KL5ZJX
It's dust extraction is decent, but not nearly as good as an actual plunge/track saw where the blade is pretty much completely enclosed on the top side of the base.
With the 6.5" thin-kerf Freud Diablo plywood blade it cuts like butter and is pretty much a finish-quality cut.
But if dust extraction is a top priority, take a look at the better plunge/track saws from Festool, Makita, and Bosch, etc.
Most of these also have a built-in riving knife to help prevent kick-back on horizontal cuts on this type of panel saw setup.
Good!!!
Thanks!!
How is that blade not pinched in a rip position?
Are you using Stainless steel for the tubes ?
sorry to trouble you but could you tell me the height this saw takes up? I imagine it's about 280cm? I need to check if it will fit a low roof space in my workshop. thanks.
It is actually under 6 ft. high (180 cm)... The overall dimensions for this panel saw are approximately 120" wide x 70" high x 18" deep (305 cm wide x 180 cm high x 45 cm deep)
Nice build! Definitely going to copy some of your design.
Thanks!
im going to try and build one of these next week i think. idk if i can make it as fancy as this one, ive got a saw and scrap wood/pipes. budget is 50 bucks so we will see how it turns out
Cool ... let us know how it goes.
I am curious too know how are the rips done without cutting the supporting frame behind the saw?
The frames do get cut, however it doesn't cut through the entire frame.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Build it with sacrificial 1x2 on the face of each support. Setting the screws deep enough to stay out of reach of the saw blade. Replace as needed.
So when making a horizontal cut, the blade doesn't bind as the weight of the upper panel falls into the kerf void?
I think it is addressed in the plan, but you can just clamp the top section to the panel saw's grid and then it won't drop and bind the blade.
Question: During horizontal cutting, the panel cut above the saw will start dropping and will bite the circular saw. How to prevent this with this design?
You can clamp the upper portion of plywood to the panel saw frame to keep it from dropping down and pinching the blade.
You can stuff a wedge in the cut just before reaching the end. Even professional panel saws have this flaw
When you doing horizontal cut, your circular saw get tension from the upper part. How you solve that, so that your saw smooth in cutting?
You can clamp the upper portion to the frame so it won’t drop down and bind the blade. Or typically when using a panel saw people will put small wedges into the kerf to prevent the blade from binding.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine
Español
Inglés
when you make the cut does not chip one of the faces or edges? The finished cut cannot be seen, and with which machine do you make the thin or thick edge veneer? I want to buy a Robland cutting machine but the price is very high.
@@jorgeserrat7568 make a 'zero-clearance' plate or insert for the saw to reduce 'tear-out' on the face of the work toward the saw. For a cleaner cut on the other face, use a better blade, more teeth, and be sure the travel (whether the saw moves or the stock moves) is strictly in line with the blade. If you can, cutting more deeply through the sheet can leave a better finish. You can also put tape over the line of cut on either or both sides. You can back the material or sandwhich it with other material - standard woodworking practice!
Where can I get a copy of this build article?
This looks more expensive than just buying one already made.
That would probably be too hard for me to make☹️
Wouldn't a rip cut on a panel saw bite the saw blade?
Good question... You can clamp the top portion of the plywood panel to the grid so it won't slide down and pinch the blade after it is cut.
It does, but depending on how far down you are, determines how much weight it puts on the blade. It's mostly overcomable by planning or brute Force, with the former being preferred.
A portable version would be even better. One that I could mount to the side of a trailer and drive down the road with.
Sounds like a great idea. Thanks!
Nice design - but what keeps the top piece from falling down and pinching the blade during a horizontal cut, especially if it’s half of the panel, sometimes 30-50 lbs? I suppose that would be a question of any panel cutter design.
I just clamp the plywood to the grid at the top so it doesn't fall down during a horizontal cut.
Boa tarde quanto é um equipamento pronto pra trabalhar mim fala
Are the plans in the magazine and what issue was that?
This was from ShopNotes Magazine #88 or the plans are available for purchase here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/sliding-carriage-panel-saw/
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine any chance they'll be converted to metric in a later stage?
@@DriesNys Don't you have a calculator? 1 = 25.4
There is an inherent flaw in this design. Note: on a table or radial arm saw the blade teeth force the wood into the table or fence respectively. on this design the blade teeth pull the wood off backing support. To force the wood into the support, the saw must be positioned with the motor on the left side. This will force the wood against the backing by the blades. The method of cutting must be that the force of the cut must be directed in the direction of the greatest mass. I have a similar saw and it is in the redesign stage.
I'm interested in buying the plans. Before doing so, can you estimate how much the parts (specifically the hardware) would cost? Thanks!
Sorry, for just getting back to you... the latest estimate I've heard is under $400 for all of the materials and hardware.
I have seen a few of these at industrial auctions for under $200 Used. Keep your eye
readyset thanks for heads up! ... But I already bought the plans. Fortunately, they're VERY good. Just as well because up in western Canada it could be years before one surfaces at an auction. I'll let you know how my build goes!
Scott Carson, Obviously costs will vary depending on your location and where you source your materials. Please let us know how the your build goes and if you have any questions.
I am curious too know how are the rips done without cutting the supporting frame behind the saw?
You sound like a welcoming version of Ron Swanson.
nice
Thanks
Estou no caminho da marcenaria
Folks, is the wall saw better than an 8ft. track saw?
That's like asking if the band saw is better than the jigsaw. They are both great at different tasks with some similarities.
Can we have a high definition video of this?
Sorry about that... this was shot 10 years ago and I couldn't find the high-res file to upload, so we're kind of stuck with what we got. But this project is on my list to do a build sometime, so we can do a new high-def video at that point.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Thats good. Looking forward to it
I would love to be able to get plans for this. I have very small space and this would be the perfect solution. @Woodsmith
Which kind of saw are you using in the video? On your drawings the saw base is only 15"x16 1/2" while a saw blade of 9" 1/2 diam. seems to be necessary. These kind of saw got easily 14" long base, if i'm not wrong... (makita 5903R for example). thanks
mathieu ribeiro - it kind of looks like a Milwaukee 6391-21 (www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6391-21) but I'll see if I can find out for sure.
Thanks, so for this build we need a 7 1/4" diam. blade?
Thats so light weight, it dosnt have to take up wall space it could fold down from the celing where its stored.
I like that idea! :)
What about kick backs
I would recommend clamping the upper portion of plywood to the grid so it doesn't slide down after being cut and pinch the saw blade... that should prevent any kickback.
image is very blurry...
Has anyone built one of these? How accurate is it? Do the plans have a process to make adjustments to rip/crosscut inaccuracies?
I would love to hear from anyone has built this recently also. This is one of our more popular plans, and I haven't heard of any complaints, but I haven't gotten any responses from people who have built it and shared photos either.
Woodsmith Ok, I plan to build one in a month a so. I will let you know how it goes. I have a townhouse with a single car garage only 9'-8" wide so this would make it almost functional for sheets. Thanks.
Any news on this post? I'm interested to know is the first cut the final cut?
Mama C how much did materials cost you?
sounds like spagnolo.
Track saw??
I have the same question.
I hope it cuts straighter than the Home Depot, land of droopy pants and no knowledge of the 90 degree angle.
I'd like to think that it does cut straighter. :)
Z$@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine f!1-
it's like a cnc cutter, except manual.
Yeah, sort of. :)
I bought a cheaper vertical panel saw years ago and was super dissapointed. Whether a vertical panel saw has a rail or not, they just aren't finish tools. You get horrible tear out and are notoriously out of square and I can't imagine building your own out of wood and having it stay perfectly square with even average usage. Low end vertical panel saws like this or cheap Safety Speeds or Milwaukee aren't worth the space or money. Floor space is valuable in a small shop, but so is wall space, and these things take up a ton of it for something that is of nominal usage. Also, it in no way replaces a table saw. If you want to process sheet goods quickly and accurately and safely look for a cheap used 5ft horizontal panel saw, or check out Grizzly for inexpensive options.
We have a panel saw in our shop. It is great for breaking down plywood in to more manageable pieces but I wouldn't use it for accurate finish cuts... That's definitely work for a table saw. Track saws are great for breaking down plywood too if you have a small shop.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine For sure. Before I bought a horizontal panel saw I'd use the vertical saw to cut plywood down to smaller sizes to then mill on a standard cabinet saw. A track saw compliments that system also as you mention. There is talk in comment sections about using these as a finish cutting tool and people should understand it's practical applications. If you break down enough sheet goods to warrant owning a vertical panel saw you should seriously look into a horizontal panel saw instead. There is no comparison.
@Mama C
For the Money Invested in Just Parts & Materials for this Vertical Panel Saw, you can buy an EXCELLENT Track Saw System that includes the Saw itself and it is actually accurate for finish work if you measure and position the track properly.
Track Saws also take up A LOT LESS SPACE, too! Look at the BORA, Festool, Makita, Bosch, and other Track Saw systems. Or you can build a DIY Track Saw as well. Check out *Wesley Treats DIY Track Saw Upgrades* on CZcams...
czcams.com/video/qmlwNEKGR8E/video.html
I applaud your work. Having owned a panel saw I can say , for about $1500 buy one. It will do everything your home built will do only better.
This build is for those who don't have $1500 to spend on a commercial unit.
Yeah some of us have enough engineering skills but not a spare 1500 to drop on a saw. I bet you hire someone to change your oil too.
@@anasmrright
@Blake Rienbaugh
@Dadwithallthecool
Just the Parts & Materials alone for this DIY design will cost you between $400-$500 USD depending on your suppliers...AND that's not including the circular saw. So there's that.
For the SPACE taken by these Vertical Panel Saws, I much prefer a good, professional Track Saw System...which includes the actual specialized circular track Saw for about the same cost.
Or you can DIY a Track Saw setup as well for much less money, especially if you already have a decent circular saw.
I like Wesley Treat's DIY Track Saw (with Upgrades), but there are many other good Track Saw plans.
A good Track Saw will actually be accurate for finish work if you measure and position the track properly.
I especially like using the track saw with Bench Dogs for alignment in an MFT-style or "PARF" system type benchtop/assembly table top, but a good Drywall Square & some clamps works great as well.
Of course, this assumes that you have the horizontal floor space for a track saw setup. But it can be easily done with a few simple saw horses and another sheet of scrap plywood, set up either inside or outside of your workshop, etc.
For commercially available options, look at the BORA, Festool, Makita, Bosch, and other Track Saw systems.
For a DIY setup, check out *Wesley Treat DIY Track Saw Upgrades* on CZcams...
czcams.com/video/qmlwNEKGR8E/video.html
136 thumbs down from ones who thought this was the flower channel
LOL. I don't see the point of thumbing down either. If you think something needs to be said to improve, say it, put it in comment, not thumb-down.
The video is very low quality :(
Yeah, sorry about that. It was filmed more than 10 years ago and I couldn't find the high res file when I uploaded this, but I still wanted to share it. :(
Some people need to find something to bitch about!
Just buy a track saw, people.
This is about 8x faster if you have a lot of work to do in a single board.
@@richardsolomon5375
True, but ultimately your particular shop layout and available space will determine which type will be best.
ALSO, a good Track Saw may be slower, but is usually much more accurate and with much less tear-out when used properly...good enough for most finish work with the appropriate blades.
So, if you want the versatility of both quick sheet goods breakdown AND accurate finish work, I would go with a track saw.
software woodworking toy project your .
Poor video, details aren't great. I hope your magazines are better
This is an old video from 2007 that I pulled out of the archive (and I couldn't find an HD version) so yes it's a little grainy. I've learned my lesson and haven't posted any low-res footage here since 2017. ;)
Everyones a critic....you do realize this is a free video right? You didnt pay for Jack. We dont all expect to be spoon fed...nice video. Ignore this Jack hole
Poderia me mandar esse manual
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