Holy smoke look at that exquisite Damascus detail pure art and just the right shade of blue black silver one more coat would have definitely darkened it a fraction too much you never fail to impress thanks again.
Great job! I really like the idea of the humidity chamber. I have used this product and a few others with very good results. Takes about 5-6 coats, depending on the steel. Birchwood Casey plum brown also works for blueing. Apply as directed, let it rust a bit and boil in rain or distilled water. Turns a nice dark black. Beautiful shotgun and thanks again!!!
Thanks Chief! The humidity chamber is recommended for the room temperature Mark Lee "slow rust blue." The normal "Rust Blue" still needs to be heated with a heat gun or torch before applying the chemical and boiling. I was surprised how well the chamber worked however.
@@SixRoundsStudio It's the best conservator's wax on the planet, IMHO. Won't yellow, is safe on ALL surfaces and materials. I use it at The Guild all the time!
I heard this quote and it reminded me of you Bill. “The way you do anything is the way you do everything” Meaning… even the easiest thing you did on this shotgun, I know you took the time to do it right. Whoever this Ithaca belongs to is really lucky 👍
Thank you yannick. Yup...it is who I am. Sometimes I am my own worst critic...but I learn to give way to urges. Another saying is that "perfect is the enemy of great." We need to find balance in all we do.
It is a double barrel Ithaca shotgun I think it’s 1923-ish when I took the two pins that holds the whole mechanism together to have access to the screws or to the firing pins when I took that apart, there’s two big springs that are inside the oh also receiver, and they have two little wedge shaped pins on top of the springs they’re real hard and hard to compress and they both the springs going to a slot right below that or too long pen to go all the way to the blood break action if I could I could send you a photo. Thanks appreciate your comments.
Sam...I am assuming that you have not lost any of the parts. You question is that you are unsure how to compress the spring so that you can reinstall the spring retainer?
Yes I have taken it to three different gun smith and they could not fix it so I decided to due it myself and I took it apart to find out what was wrong with it and I found out that they have never took it apart due to all the rust inside. So I clean everything and found nothing wrong that I can tell I do have all of the parts just have not figured out how to put the springs back in. The problem started when I went deer hunting and I went to shoot a deer and both triggers click did not get fire the gun. you can see where the fire pin hit the primer on the shells, but not hard enough for them to go off.
I have an old Ithaca I do not know what year it is, but I took it apart to fix the firing pins and the big springs in there obviously popped out and I cannot find a way to reinstall the springs to put it all back together is there a special tool question
Great question. The "rust" chemical never gets inside the barrel. We only apply it to the outside. But yes...I did clean, brush, and oil the insides when I was done. Needed to make sure all of the water was gone.
Fair question. Most of the damascus barrels we have on display in the shop have a silver blue color. Some of the more "patina" barrels have taken on a brown color. I say this in the video that I have not seen enough "perfect" preservation guns to know what is correct. Also...I was concerned that the "browning" would hide the damascus pattern.
I did....ish! On the trigger and etc...I used regular "rust blue". That leave a much deeper "blue" color, while the "slow rust blue" on the damascus is more silver.
Yes...a little overwhelmed by how its coming out. Got nearly a year of "me" in it at this point. The customer will be the truth if I did this good or not. Thanks for being here Mark
Hey Sandy. Mark Lee. They make three colors and chems. Brown, Blue and Slow Rust. The Blue is what I use for normal bluing. Brown is brown (brown bess brown) and the slow rust is generally for damascus (as I understand it) the slow rust is more of a sliver blue so certainly is a viable color for a custom too.
@@SixRoundsStudio : Thanks. I have a Neumann Bros The Interchangeable double barrel with quite ornate engraving and an interesting grip with carving in the wood. Lots of dents and nicks in the stock and I’m debating stripping and steaming them out. Question is how far to go. If I tackle the stock, should I tackle the pitting on the outside of the barrel. Not too bad, but it’s that decision as to whether I do the whole thing or not.
@@sandymilne224 Sandy, these are always difficult choices. Condition is everything. Rairity is everything. History and story is everything. I always choose the least invasive approach first and then go up from there. I have done several videos on restoration philosophy on the channel. You need to have a clear goal in your head as to where you want to end up before you even start. Just remember the restorers mantra....it is only original once. and then make wise choices from there.
@@SixRoundsStudio : Good advice! I’m struggling to date this shotgun. Little online to go by. Old, confusing websites with some proof mark data. I though that the serial number would help, but I can’t find a table of dates by serialization. Any tips?
@@SixRoundsStudio they turned out really well, I’m surprised the pattern showed up as well as it did without the acid etch. Have you tried the express brown on Damascus?
@@OLDTR69 I never had. Most of the demascus barrels I have seen in the shop have always had a grey or silver cast to them. I was hoping to replicate that.
@@OLDTR69 Well....that tank is a heavy gauge stainless steel "planter" that I bought on Amazon. The purpose built tanks are wicked expensive and all I'm doing in this tank is boiling water.
@@SixRoundsStudio I shoot all of mine. I rabbit hunt with a Remington 16ga Damascus barrel model 1900. 70grains of 2f and an ounce of shot or RST SHELLS. Dove hunt with LC Smith 1902 00 grade. I collect and restore old doubles. You did a fine job on the Ithaca.
Outstanding. What a work of art.
Thank you very much!
Holy smoke look at that exquisite Damascus detail pure art and just the right shade of blue black silver one more coat would have definitely darkened it a fraction too much you never fail to impress thanks again.
Thank you Kerry. Yes...I was concerned that one more coat would hide that beautiful damascus.
That gun turned out beautifull
Thank you, it did! A year and a half went into the restoration. Sooooo much work.
Great job! I really like the idea of the humidity chamber. I have used this product and a few others with very good results. Takes about 5-6 coats, depending on the steel. Birchwood Casey plum brown also works for blueing. Apply as directed, let it rust a bit and boil in rain or distilled water. Turns a nice dark black. Beautiful shotgun and thanks again!!!
Thanks Chief! The humidity chamber is recommended for the room temperature Mark Lee "slow rust blue." The normal "Rust Blue" still needs to be heated with a heat gun or torch before applying the chemical and boiling. I was surprised how well the chamber worked however.
Absolutely beautiful work, enjoyed this series immensely!! Thank you for sharing
Thanks Joe. Near done with the restoration...so the vids for this project will be winding up soon.
NOW we're talkin', Bill!! That turned out *really* well! She deserves a nice coat of Renaissance wax now! 👍👍
What is that?
@@SixRoundsStudio It's the best conservator's wax on the planet, IMHO. Won't yellow, is safe on ALL surfaces and materials. I use it at The Guild all the time!
@@kbjerke Will have to look it up. Generally available or do I need to go to conservation supply house?
@@SixRoundsStudio Available on Amazon - and *worth its weight in gold!!* 👍👍
I heard this quote and it reminded me of you Bill.
“The way you do anything is the way you do everything”
Meaning… even the easiest thing you did on this shotgun, I know you took the time to do it right. Whoever this Ithaca belongs to is really lucky 👍
Thank you yannick. Yup...it is who I am. Sometimes I am my own worst critic...but I learn to give way to urges. Another saying is that "perfect is the enemy of great." We need to find balance in all we do.
@@SixRoundsStudio yes! I totally understand that quote. I tend to be a perfectionist and sometimes I wish I wasn’t. Have a great Sunday Bill.
Absolutely Beautiful jab Bill. Wow!
Thanks Stephen
That looks better than the job they did in the midway video 👏
Thanks Eric. Well...midway sells "stuff"! I sell my skills.
@@SixRoundsStudio gotcha 👌
Excellent. That shotgun is looking absolutely superb. I have an old rifle that could do with a re-blue. May well give that Mark Lee gear a try.
Good stuff!
Nice Work👍
Thank you Steve
It is a double barrel Ithaca shotgun I think it’s 1923-ish when I took the two pins that holds the whole mechanism together to have access to the screws or to the firing pins when I took that apart, there’s two big springs that are inside the oh also receiver, and they have two little wedge shaped pins on top of the springs they’re real hard and hard to compress and they both the springs going to a slot right below that or too long pen to go all the way to the blood break action if I could I could send you a photo. Thanks appreciate your comments.
Sam...I am assuming that you have not lost any of the parts. You question is that you are unsure how to compress the spring so that you can reinstall the spring retainer?
Yes I have taken it to three different gun smith and they could not fix it so I decided to due it myself and I took it apart to find out what was wrong with it and I found out that they have never took it apart due to all the rust inside. So I clean everything and found nothing wrong that I can tell I do have all of the parts just have not figured out how to put the springs back in. The problem started when I went deer hunting and I went to shoot a deer and both triggers click did not get fire the gun. you can see where the fire pin hit the primer on the shells, but not hard enough for them to go off.
I have an old Ithaca I do not know what year it is, but I took it apart to fix the firing pins and the big springs in there obviously popped out and I cannot find a way to reinstall the springs to put it all back together is there a special tool question
Not sure which spring your referring to. or which gun
That Damascus looks super with that bluing. What's the final 'sealer', just oiling?
Not sure yet. It will be oil or I may use a thin coat of preservation wax.
How do you remove the rust bluing from the inside of the barrels? Do you polish the inside of the barrels too?
Great question. The "rust" chemical never gets inside the barrel. We only apply it to the outside. But yes...I did clean, brush, and oil the insides when I was done. Needed to make sure all of the water was gone.
I enjoy your videos immensely. Why blue not brown for Damascus?
Fair question. Most of the damascus barrels we have on display in the shop have a silver blue color. Some of the more "patina" barrels have taken on a brown color. I say this in the video that I have not seen enough "perfect" preservation guns to know what is correct. Also...I was concerned that the "browning" would hide the damascus pattern.
What is the name of the chemical that you are using the barrel looks beautiful great job
Mark Lee Slow Rust Blue. Thank You!
@@SixRoundsStudio thank you
@@tonydebellis4647 You are very welcome
Can I ask, do you treat the trigger mechanism / assembly the same as the barrel
I did....ish! On the trigger and etc...I used regular "rust blue". That leave a much deeper "blue" color, while the "slow rust blue" on the damascus is more silver.
I probably missed it in another video but I bet you polished it with 800 grit.
No. 300 is sufficient
@@SixRoundsStudio Thanks, I believe European 800 grit is closer to 400 grit US, forgot to mention. Never knew 300 would be sufficient.
Bill, are you happy with the overall outcome of this project? It looks like a million bucks from here - but I am 1200 miles away...
Yes...a little overwhelmed by how its coming out. Got nearly a year of "me" in it at this point. The customer will be the truth if I did this good or not. Thanks for being here Mark
Thanks. What’s the brand and name of the chemical you use? Is it just for Damascus barrels or for all bluing of barrels?
Hey Sandy. Mark Lee. They make three colors and chems. Brown, Blue and Slow Rust. The Blue is what I use for normal bluing. Brown is brown (brown bess brown) and the slow rust is generally for damascus (as I understand it) the slow rust is more of a sliver blue so certainly is a viable color for a custom too.
@@SixRoundsStudio : Thanks. I have a Neumann Bros The Interchangeable double barrel with quite ornate engraving and an interesting grip with carving in the wood. Lots of dents and nicks in the stock and I’m debating stripping and steaming them out. Question is how far to go. If I tackle the stock, should I tackle the pitting on the outside of the barrel. Not too bad, but it’s that decision as to whether I do the whole thing or not.
@@sandymilne224 Sandy, these are always difficult choices. Condition is everything. Rairity is everything. History and story is everything. I always choose the least invasive approach first and then go up from there. I have done several videos on restoration philosophy on the channel. You need to have a clear goal in your head as to where you want to end up before you even start. Just remember the restorers mantra....it is only original once. and then make wise choices from there.
@@SixRoundsStudio : Good advice! I’m struggling to date this shotgun. Little online to go by. Old, confusing websites with some proof mark data. I though that the serial number would help, but I can’t find a table of dates by serialization. Any tips?
That’s really nice, did you etch the barrels?
If by etch, you mean chemically....no. I did polish the barrels first.
@@SixRoundsStudio they turned out really well, I’m surprised the pattern showed up as well as it did without the acid etch. Have you tried the express brown on Damascus?
@@OLDTR69 I never had. Most of the demascus barrels I have seen in the shop have always had a grey or silver cast to them. I was hoping to replicate that.
@@SixRoundsStudiowhere did you find your bluing tank? I like that set up
@@OLDTR69 Well....that tank is a heavy gauge stainless steel "planter" that I bought on Amazon. The purpose built tanks are wicked expensive and all I'm doing in this tank is boiling water.
Great job. Now go shoot some clays. You got some RST shells?
Pretty sure this shotgun will never be fired....but is an intriguing thought.
@@SixRoundsStudio I shoot all of mine. I rabbit hunt with a Remington 16ga Damascus barrel model 1900. 70grains of 2f and an ounce of shot or RST SHELLS. Dove hunt with LC Smith 1902 00 grade. I collect and restore old doubles. You did a fine job on the Ithaca.