I'm in Central Florida too; I've been getting by with a 20$ garment steamer. I usually set up a cardboard box, turn it on for a few seconds and close the lid to rust. I'm boiling the small parts on my stove but did set up a PVC recently, with the steamer at the bottom, to convert a barrel.
Those thin rubber gloves will tear long before he is injured by the drill press. Regarding thicker gloves you are absolutely right, but is this case its not dangerous. And it is vital to not introduce grease from the skin onto the part, so I understand the use of thin rubber gloves.
Your not a metal polisher, wearing gloves is necessary. Mops are spinning a few thousand rpm, parts get hot. Much safer to wear gloves than trying to balance a hot part or holding it by fingertips. You need to know where moving parts are at all times and not allow any distraction. Wearing headphones listening to music is something to be avoided at all costs
That's for lathes, mills, and other stronger stuff. If I'm using a grinder or course wire wheel, whether benchtop or drill press mounted, I'm wearing leather gloves.
Some things many sources don't cover... Keep a carding wheel down to about 800rpm. Way slower than bench grinder will give you. 'Rain water' or even well water, or filtered well water is likely better than distilled, which often times has aluminum in it from the cheaper non-glass tubes used by the cheap sources. Best water is reverse osmosis, which a good under sink setup can be had for ~$200. Rust Blue branded solution should be cut with Everclear, highest proof, as wetting agent. Boiling works better than steaming I think.
I'm probably gonna need a hot box for anything useful and repeatable, but I wouldn't have needed one yesterday. It was feeling very Florida-like here in Michigan.
FYI another great way to clean or Pre CLEAN YOUR PARTS "I Love" TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) about 1/4 cup in a pot of water (PH about 11) cleans and can neutralize acids while keeping hot to dry fast. and fertilize your plants or, do shop laundry? I did metals passivation with yrs of OJT? we also used H2O2 hydrogen peroxide at about .3% abv a Lot! I never measure much anymore, in my H2O tank. Darned if "I can Find" a good carding wheel. on same note "I Use" my CPAP ozone generator inside my steam riser to speed things. "I use" 100% standard stuff from around my shop for my passivation's Vitamin C(Acorbic acid) is a good safe controlled way to go also for a hot your acid bath. LOOKS GREAT!!!! I forgot the oil soak on my last Plating and Bluing
Seeing the inside of the barrel isn't being carded why isn't there a buildup of rust on the inside & wouldn't bluing the inside, be something you don't want ?
Absolutely. It just takes a few light swipes with steel wool to remove excess rust. For the initial oiling, you could use kerosine, linseed oil, or used motor oil. Never oil until you have 100% coverage of blueing. This could happen in 3 passes or 5. Each job can differ.
@Millie.1965 sure thing. I've done several total reblues and several conservations with this method. It works very well. Be thorough and do all parts. Trigger guards, hammers, forestock rings. Everything will match. Small parts can be boiled in an electric fryer for curing. Hit me up if you have questions.
Huge thanks to Oldarmsofidaho.com
Book- www.google.com/books/edition/Firearm_Blueing_and_Browning/IUtv4yDhl3MC?hl=en
I'm in Central Florida too; I've been getting by with a 20$ garment steamer. I usually set up a cardboard box, turn it on for a few seconds and close the lid to rust. I'm boiling the small parts on my stove but did set up a PVC recently, with the steamer at the bottom, to convert a barrel.
THANKS! I think my wife has a steamer in the shed never used in 15 yrs? or I chucked it?
FYI: NEVER EVER wear gloves around a spinning piece of machinery!!!!!! I'm a woodwork and trust me... I learned this the hard way years ago!
Those thin rubber gloves will tear long before he is injured by the drill press. Regarding thicker gloves you are absolutely right, but is this case its not dangerous. And it is vital to not introduce grease from the skin onto the part, so I understand the use of thin rubber gloves.
Your not a metal polisher, wearing gloves is necessary.
Mops are spinning a few thousand rpm, parts get hot.
Much safer to wear gloves than trying to balance a hot part or holding it by fingertips.
You need to know where moving parts are at all times and not allow any distraction.
Wearing headphones listening to music is something to be avoided at all costs
That's for lathes, mills, and other stronger stuff. If I'm using a grinder or course wire wheel, whether benchtop or drill press mounted, I'm wearing leather gloves.
These gloves are a different story my friend! These tear off no danger to this fella.
Watching this process was a pleasure
Some things many sources don't cover...
Keep a carding wheel down to about 800rpm. Way slower than bench grinder will give you.
'Rain water' or even well water, or filtered well water is likely better than distilled, which often times has aluminum in it from the cheaper non-glass tubes used by the cheap sources.
Best water is reverse osmosis, which a good under sink setup can be had for ~$200.
Rust Blue branded solution should be cut with Everclear, highest proof, as wetting agent.
Boiling works better than steaming I think.
I'm probably gonna need a hot box for anything useful and repeatable, but I wouldn't have needed one yesterday. It was feeling very Florida-like here in Michigan.
That's what she said...
Good job! Beyond Ballistics has also done good instructions on bluing!
Great info!
What effect does kerosene have? Similar to final oiling? Thank you
FYI another great way to clean or Pre CLEAN YOUR PARTS "I Love" TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) about 1/4 cup in a pot of water (PH about 11) cleans and can neutralize acids while keeping hot to dry fast. and fertilize your plants or, do shop laundry?
I did metals passivation with yrs of OJT? we also used H2O2 hydrogen peroxide at about .3% abv a Lot! I never measure much anymore, in my H2O tank. Darned if "I can Find" a good carding wheel.
on same note "I Use" my CPAP ozone generator inside my steam riser to speed things. "I use" 100% standard stuff from around my shop for my passivation's Vitamin C(Acorbic acid) is a good safe controlled way to go also for a hot your acid bath.
LOOKS GREAT!!!! I forgot the oil soak on my last Plating and Bluing
Follow up? Sure would be nice to see the finished product, oiled, etc w. close up with good lighting.
how dya card on the inside ?
Do I have to subscribe to your Utreon to see all of your videos? I can’t seem to find the East German ak build videos
Seeing the inside of the barrel isn't being carded why isn't there a buildup of rust on the inside & wouldn't bluing the inside, be something you don't want ?
Add your parts to boiling water . If water is not boiling it will leave spots....
That may be the issue then
Where did you get the brush for the drill press?
Brownells has them. Mount it with some all-thread, nuts and fender washers.
What kind of brush is it? Bronze, steel, stainless steel or ? It looks like very thin bristles.
It's stainless. Google "carding brush". It's super fine like 2-3 thousandths I believe
Would 0000 be enough of a polish between bluing?
Absolutely. It just takes a few light swipes with steel wool to remove excess rust. For the initial oiling, you could use kerosine, linseed oil, or used motor oil. Never oil until you have 100% coverage of blueing. This could happen in 3 passes or 5. Each job can differ.
@@TheSaltblock Gotcha thank you for that explanation! luckily everything should go fairly smoothly
@Millie.1965 sure thing. I've done several total reblues and several conservations with this method. It works very well. Be thorough and do all parts. Trigger guards, hammers, forestock rings. Everything will match. Small parts can be boiled in an electric fryer for curing. Hit me up if you have questions.
@@TheSaltblock Absolutely. Thank you!
Working barefoot?
Bluing.
Blueing, Bluing a noun. Blueing is a verb.