1996 - 2000 Toyota Rav4 DIY Remove Throttle Body, IAC Valve, EGR Valve, EGR Pipe, with Bench Tests
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- čas přidán 13. 06. 2020
- This video shows how to remove the Throttle Body, IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve, the EGR valve, and the EGR pipe on the '96 - '00 Rav4. Also shown are how to clean these components and bench test them.
Check the Timestamps below or the Pinned Comment to skip around:
Video links for the EGR Diagnostics Video and the VSV Video are below the Timestamps:
00:01:27 Location of EGR Valve and notes about removal
00:01:23 Remove Air Box and Air Intake Hose
00:03:00 Throttle body -- closer look
00:03:13 TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) location
00:03:25 IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) location
00:03:45 Disconnect electrical for TPS and IAC Valve
00:04:15 Remove Throttle Body vacuum hoses
00:04:48 Disconnect throttle link and kickdown cables
00:05:17 Remove three Throttle Body mounting bolts (12mm)
00:06:00 Disconnect Coolant Hoses and Vacuum Hose from Throttle Body
00:08:06 Remove Throttle Body
00:08:42 Throttle Body on Bench: various components on the Throttle Body
00:10:08 IAC Valve and TPS screws are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws
00:11:35 Remove four JIS screws for IAC Valve
00:13:15 Removing stripped JIS screw for IAC Valve
00:15:23 Remove IAC Valve from Throttle Body
00:16:14 More JIS screws on IAC Valve
00:16:35 Clean IAC Valve
00:17:55 Removing screws for pintle access on IAC Valve
00:21:41 Bench test IAC Valve
00:24:38 Clean Throttle Body
00:25:53 Install IAC Valve back to Throttle Body (gasket is Felpro 61085)
Skip ahead to 52:30 for Throttle Body re-install if you aren't removing the EGR valve.
00:27:45 Remove EGR Valve
00:30:37 Clean EGR Valve
00:32:05 Gaskets for EGR Valve (Toyota 25627-74011
and 25628-74010)
00:32:17 Bench Test EGR Valve
Skip ahead to 50:00 for EGR valve re-install if you aren't removing the EGR pipe.
00:38:31 Remove Components for EGR Pipe access
00:39:03 Remove Manifold Stay parts
00:42:49 Notes about differences with '96 and '97 Rav4s (distributors)
00:43:51 Open the nut for the EGR pipe
00:45:00 Remove EGR pipe
00:45:22 Clean EGR pipe
00:46:02 Reinstall EGR pipe
00:47:09 Reinstall Manifold Stay parts
00:49:58 Reinstall EGR Valve (torque for 12mm nuts is 108 inch-lbs/9 ft-lbs, 10mm bolts are 87 inch-lbs)
00:51:57 Connect hoses for EGR Valve (exhaust on bottom and vacuum on top)
00:52:26 Reinstall Throttle Body
00:52:36 Connect coolant and vacuum lines to Throttle Body
00:55:30 Throttle Body gasket (Felpro 61083)
00:56:30 Install three bolts to mount Throttle Body (12mm, torque is 168 inch-lbs/14 ft-lbs)
00:57:12 Connect throttle link and kickdown cables
00:57:37 Connect vacuum hoses
00:58:04 Connect electrical for TPS and IAC Valve
01:00:27 Install air hose and air box
01:02:47 Last check on re-installed parts
01:03:58 Conclusion, recommended to disconnect battery to re-learn idle.
Full EGR Diagnostics, Engine Testing, and Bench Testing video for EGR Valve, Vacuum Modulator, and VSV:
• 1996 - 2000 Rav4 EGR D...
Full bolt-by-bolt for removing, testing and replacing the VSV:
• 1996 - 2000 Toyota Rav...
Thanks for watching! I hope this video was helpful for you. Please leave any tip, comments, or questions in the Comments section.
Good luck with your repair! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Update: torque valve for the EGR pipe union nut (46:50) is 43 ft-lbs.
Torque values for the four manifold stay/bracket (48:54) are 31 ft-lbs for the 14mm, and 15 ft-lbs for the 12mm nut and bolts.
Video links for the EGR Diagnostics Video and the VSV Video are below the Timestamps:
00:01:27 Location of EGR Valve and notes about removal
00:01:23 Remove Air Box and Air Intake Hose
00:03:00 Throttle body -- closer look
00:03:13 TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) location
00:03:25 IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) location
00:03:45 Disconnect electrical for TPS and IAC Valve
00:04:15 Remove Throttle Body vacuum hoses
00:04:48 Disconnect throttle link and kickdown cables
00:05:17 Remove three Throttle Body mounting bolts (12mm)
00:06:00 Disconnect Coolant Hoses and Vacuum Hose from Throttle Body
00:08:06 Remove Throttle Body
00:08:42 Throttle Body on Bench: various components on the Throttle Body
00:10:08 IAC Valve and TPS screws are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws
00:11:35 Remove four JIS screws for IAC Valve
00:13:15 Removing stripped JIS screw for IAC Valve
00:15:23 Remove IAC Valve from Throttle Body
00:16:14 More JIS screws on IAC Valve
00:16:35 Clean IAC Valve
00:17:55 Removing screws for pintle access on IAC Valve
00:21:41 Bench test IAC Valve
00:24:38 Clean Throttle Body
00:25:53 Install IAC Valve back to Throttle Body (gasket is Felpro 61085)
Skip ahead to 52:30 for Throttle Body re-install if you aren't removing the EGR valve.
00:27:45 Remove EGR Valve
00:30:37 Clean EGR Valve
00:32:05 Gaskets for EGR Valve (Toyota 25627-74011
and 25628-74010)
00:32:17 Bench Test EGR Valve
Skip ahead to 50:00 for EGR valve re-install if you aren't removing the EGR pipe.
00:38:31 Remove Components for EGR Pipe access
00:39:03 Remove Manifold Stay parts
00:42:49 Notes about differences with '96 and '97 Rav4s (distributors)
00:43:51 Open the nut for the EGR pipe
00:45:00 Remove EGR pipe
00:45:22 Clean EGR pipe
00:46:02 Reinstall EGR pipe (torque is 43 ft-lbs)
00:47:09 Reinstall Manifold Stay parts (torque for the 14mm bolt is 31 ft-lbs; torque is 15 ft-lbs for the three 12mm's)
00:49:58 Reinstall EGR Valve (torque for 12mm nuts is 108 inch-lbs/9 ft-lbs, 10mm bolts are 87 inch-lbs)
00:51:57 Connect hoses for EGR Valve (exhaust on bottom and vacuum on top)
00:52:26 Reinstall Throttle Body
00:52:36 Connect coolant and vacuum lines to Throttle Body
00:55:30 Throttle Body gasket (Felpro 61083)
00:56:30 Install three bolts to mount Throttle Body (12mm, torque is 168 inch-lbs/14 ft-lbs)
00:57:12 Connect throttle link and kickdown cables
00:57:37 Connect vacuum hoses
00:58:04 Connect electrical for TPS and IAC Valve
01:00:27 Install air hose and air box
01:02:47 Last check on re-installed parts
01:03:58 Conclusion, recommended to disconnect battery to re-learn idle.
Full EGR Diagnostics, Engine Testing, and Bench Testing video for EGR Valve, Vacuum Modulator, and VSV:
czcams.com/video/pdpnk2f7gnc/video.html
Full bolt-by-bolt for removing, testing and replacing the VSV:
czcams.com/video/1Z-sy6z14D8/video.html
Thanks for watching! I hope this video was helpful for you.
Good luck with your repair!
Keep making videos!
You, ma'am, are the gold standard to which any instructional video creator should aspire towards. I appreciate the clarity and detail that you put into this.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Exceptional tutorial! Your clarity and thorough descriptions are among the best I’ve ever seen. I have been watching DIY auto videos for years and you give the very best a new benchmark! Your soothing voice, inclusion of setback challenges, and pause video text clarifications have inspired me to up my own teaching methods. Thank you for this generous gift!!😊
I'm glad you like the video -- thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching! : )
I agree. Voice, even temperament and video skills are the best I've encountered!
This is the absolute BEST video on car repair/diagnostics ever..... You give clear and concise instructions with clear pics.... You give a great explanation of how each part works . This is just the most thorough video I've ever come across . I do my own repairs and have watched countless videos , so I know that puts this video at the top of the list of 100's if not 1000's of videos I've watched....
And I might be out of place , but it sounds like its a female making the video. If so , you're awesome.....
Wow, thanks for your comment! Yes, I'm a woman. I'm glad the video helped, and thanks for watching : )
Check out the channel for some other Rav4 videos!
@@L35inColorado I was looking thru your other videos but didn't see it , so I figured I'd ask ... Did you do a video with removing the injectors on the RAV4 ?
No, I have not done a video on that job yet - as you know, there's not much room back there because the intake manifold is in the way. But you don't have to remove the intake manifold: you can reach the injectors by removing a couple mounting bolts for the throttle cable, and then removing the valve cover. Once the valve cover is out of the way, then I think there's two 12mm bolts holding the fuel rail to the head - you remov the fuel rail bolts and you can reach the fuel rail and pull it up, then disconnect the electrical for the injectors and pull them out. It's a good idea to depressurize the fuel system first before you start the work: remove the EFI fuse and then use the igition key to try start the engine - the engine shouldn't start because it shouldn't be getting fuel, and that means it is depressurized (though there will still be a little fuel that might leak when you remove the injectors).
If you search for videos for the 5S-FE engine, the process is very similar or identical to the 3S-FE - here is an example:
czcams.com/video/1Br6F3j87b4/video.html
I hope that helps! Good luck : )
@@L35inColorado 😳😳😳 HOLY COW ! What a response! I knew subscribing to your channel was a good idea ! Thank you for the info . I was looking at it and was thinking the same thing. Im pretty sure I could get my hands in there if I just removed the cable cover and stuff like you said. Just wasn't sure about the fuel rail. Your response gives me confidence to go ahead and give it a go ! 😁 Thanks again !
@@L35inColorado I took the plunge and tried changing fuel injectors out. I bought one new one and cleaned the other three so they worked really good. I put the car back together, and now it won't even start....☹️😡☹️ What could I have done wrong ?
I removed the throttle body, throttle cables, the air intake boot , then the valve cover. Two bolts for fuel rail..... Wasn't that bad. Hardest part was getting valve cover off...🤪
But the car won't start now. It will with starting fluid , kinda ...... Any help would be very much appreciated.....
I have a 1998 Toyota RAV4 2.0 L with A/T that I've owned for a year. A few months ago she suddenly wouldn't idle! My mechanic replaces the IAC. Videos like this make it possible for DIYers to complete a job like this and save $$$ for labor and parts.
This is the best step by step video I've seen on CZcams it has helped me so much. I have a 99 rav4 with a P0401 code that keeps coming back.
I can’t believe that I finished the whole video! Such a great step by step video. I have a highlander but still enjoyed the video. 👍
Thanks for watching! : )
Another excellent video from this channel. Rather than just following along, with this video you'll actually understand what you're doing, and what difficulties real people might run into. Great camera work and editing too. Thank you again L35!
Wow, thanks! What a nice comment : ) I hope it helps!
Update: haha I wish whoever worked on this car before had watched this video. One of those JIS screws was all chewed up, presumably from a Phillips. I got the others open with correct screwdriver, a few smacks, and a vise grip for extra torque (dayyum they were tight!) but only succeeded in ruining the last one. So now I'm in the same boat like in the video, for now. I'm sure glad you added that whole part about the JIS screws! Thank you again!
best instructional videos yet. i love how you provide part numbers and info on the screws, i would have never known!
Thanks for watching! : )
Thank you so much for these exceptional DIY vids!!! Just cleaned the EGR valve on my '97 5spd. Instead of two bolts holding it to the pipe on mine it's a 24mm nut. I used a 24mm crowfoot on a ratchet extension to take it off. To get to the other end of the pipe I removed the distributor. The crowfoot wrench made this job very easy for me (inexperienced)
I'm sorry I missed your comment - well done on your DIY! Thanks for adding your tips, too! : )
I have watched too many videos on EGR removal and your video finally showed me the way to properly take it off! Thanks!
I'm sorry that I missed your comment - thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
You're very thorough and easy to follow.
Excellent video 🇨🇦👍
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
OUTSTANDING process instruction and video production as always ... Bravo !
Thank you! : )
Seeing that the lower EGR pipe comes out pretty easily surprised me. Great video, L35. Many thanks.
Most well-maintained Rav4 to ever exist.
Haha, I do my best -- Rav4's are easy to love. : )
Thank you L35!!! Very generous of you to put so much time into helping others :)
That's very kind -- thank you! I'm glad that I can help others work on Rav4s with this little youtube channel. Good luck and thanks for your comment :)
This is an incredibly detailed and well though out video. Great work.
This is fantastic!! So clear and concise. And actually helpful. And well filmed. And....wow. bravo!
One more state of the art diagnose and repair EGR system components - - Thank you so much Ms. L35 in Colorado
Thank you!
Those IAC valve screws are hard to break free. I was in my friend's driveway and he didn't have many tools... I couldn't get them to budge with the Phillips drivers that he had... they didn't fit well and I was worried... that it wouldn't go well. So, I chucked his Phillips drivers and grabbed a slotted driver (which hardly fit). I knew it was a gamble. The slotted/flat bit driver didn't give me much confidence. I pressed on that rascal with all of the force I could exert and then applied torque to the screw. CLICK! One came free!! I think it only had two screws (the other two screw cavities were vacant). I removed the IAC and inspected. I didn't notice anything "wrong " with it. But it seemed a little sloppy: it wasn't a solid in the radial plane. Upon further troubleshooting(I connected the wiring/plug and turned the key on an off. I noticed that it made a funny noise ?... I took a break and researched the problem. I watched yir video and stepped back on the mat. After 15 minutes I was done. It was a old IAC. I replaced it and the problem went away.
I'm sorry I missed your comment - wow, that's great! Great work on taking care of the problem! Yes, those screws are very tight and the JIS heads get chewed up easily. I'm glad you got, and thanks for adding your tips : )
Good system to teach a subject
With simple words although subject is difficult to common man
Thanks madam
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Subscribed b4 even halfway and pulled up harbor freight so I can put tools in my fave list just to have what she'll (98 RAV4 3sfe) need for whenever. Just got her a few mths ago replacing my 03 1azfe so I'm learning. I think I'll just delete other videos because this right here is pure gold and I'm very impressed with the details, camera angles and your voice is soothing. Tysm for the video, I'll probably be binging your other vids just to see what I can see 😅🤷🏾♀️.
Thank you for subscribing, and for your comment! The only thing better than a trip to Harbor Freight is a trip to Harbor Freight while drivin' a gen-1 Rav4, haha! I love my '00, and I hope you like your new '98 too (aren't they are fun vehicles?). Thanks for watching : )
Followed your guide to a T. Got my 97 with 265000 miles singing like bird... likea boyud!
I'm sorry I missed your comment - that is outstanding! Well done!! : )
Your videos are awesome , please do more !
I am so impressed by this video that I had to leave a comment before I've finished watching it. Thank you for your instruction and time. I have this exact car except it's a 5 speed. What would be different in removing the EGR Valve if anything?
I'm sorry for the delay in responding, as I missed your comment -- the only difference for the manual transmission is that you won't have the second cable to disconnect on the throttle body (the "kickdown cable", which is only on automatics); this is shown around the 04:50 mark. Other than that, everything is the same! Good luck, and thanks for your comment!
Excellent Video - very clear and easy to follow - thank you
L35 my friend Elle_RAV4 sent me your video. Congratulations, wonderfully thorough. Seems you love your GEN-1 RAV4 as much as we do ours. Amazing how easily that EGR "pipe" was removed. This is a GODSEND! THANK YOU!
Yes, Elle_RAV4 from rav4world is great -- very knowledgable! These Rav4's are easy to love, haha. Good luck with your repair, and I hope the video helps! : )
Gotta love these first gen ravs!
Yep -- I love them, for sure!
You are an excellent mechanic!
Dude, that's a video and a half. Nice job.
I like your video. I learned so much from your video. You explained very well the functions of the throttle body and it's egr.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Good Morning
Thank you , detailed and informative video.
Will be attempting above procedure on 96 RAV4, feel confident about this maintenance , RAV4 will perform good as new.
I pray many people view your video and give thumps up and subscribe.
We give this video a 10 out of 10 rating.
Thank you -- good luck! : )
Brilliant suff. super clear. very helpful!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
awesome video! Well done!!! Will be cleanin my throttle body and new gasket as well as a new IAC. this video will help a lot
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Your videos are awesome thanks
Thanks for watching! : )
Super excellent tutorial video 👍👍
I love your videos. My Rav thanks you lol. It's been through a lot. I just did motor mounts, and I still have a slight shake while in park. I'm going to do a full clean on the TB.
Thanks for watching -- good luck! : )
Did motor mounts as well, I’m about to do the same! Curious, did the shaking go away?
@@stoicgradstudent3976 Sorry for the late reply. Yes it did. I now have a 97 I'm restoring with another idle issue. What do ya know it's the EGR. So I'm back again lol.
@@L35inColorado So I have a 97 and the EGR line at the bottom is quite different. What would be a good tool to reach that single line. I'm not sure what size the nut is. It's bigger than a 19mm.
Very well done instructional!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I wish that was my Rav4 LOL
You're Amazing ❤️
Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado How could I not?... You're the Best
I subscribed before I was even done with the video 😂. Very satisfyingly great video. Good job
Thank you! : )
Same ❤ 30mins in and I'm hooked 😁
Great video thank you very much !!!
These are great RAV4 videos!! I just broke the bottom 10mm bolt between the EGR pipe and the EGR trying to remove it (lots of penetrating fluid). 2000 5S-FE engine, looks just like your RAV4 engine. My background is that I'm a DIY person, I've been working on my cars and house doing more complicated things as time goes on. I have the 2 nuts and the other bolt out of the EGR. It looks like I could take a sawzall and cut off the top of the EGR valve, drill down through the lower EGR hole where the rest of the broken bolt still is (now that the round top of the valve is gone), and get the rest of the EGR valve off that way. It doesn't look like the holes where the EGR pipe mount to the EGR valve are threaded, so if I go slightly off as I'm drilling, this doesn't seem like it would turn out bad (just screw on new 10mm bolts through my new gasket), etc. Does this seem like a good approach, or is there an easier or better way?
Ah man, I'm sorry that happened - broken fasteners are never fun! If you're still working on this, it seems that me that you're describing the problem as this:
- the bolt head is broken off, so there's no clamping force on the EGR valve flange to the EGR pipe flange;
- but the broken bolt shaft is long enough that it still extends from the threaded hole in the EGR flange a bit into the hole in the EGR pipe flange enough to prevent you from being able to slide the EGR valve towards the firewall to get it free from the manifold studs and EGR pipe flange;
- you're trying to devise a way to get the EGR valve out (which sounds like you're replacing/willing to destroy), but that broken bolt shaft is interfering.
Is that about right?
If so, here's what I'd try (trying to mentally visualizing this):
- Loosen/disconnect the flare nut the other end of the EGR pipe (where it connects to the head, shown later in the video) so that you can move the EGR pipe and EGR valve together towards the firewall;
- once you move the pipe and valve towards the firewall enough for the EGR valve to clear the studs on the intake, you'll be able to separate the EGR pipe from the EGR valve;
- then you can remove the broken bolt from the EGR valve on the bench (if you're not replacing the EGR valve entirely);
- you'll need a new bolt, obviously; I'm not sure what that size is off the top of my head, but according to the parts diagram the part number is Toyota 91511-60614
(toyota-usa.epc-data.com/rav4/sxa11l/2352/engine/2501/?partno=9151160614#2)
That's the approached I'd take: if for some reason you can't get to the flare nut on the other end of the EGR pipe (ie, tools) and you're willing to destroy the EGR valve flange, then your idea of cutting will certainly work, but you'll need to be very carefully not to accidentally damage the intake while working in that rather cramped area with a high-speed cutting tool, and you'll also want protect all intake and cylinder head openings from any metal shavings that the cutting process will produce.
It would be big trouble to introduce metal bits into the intake or head, so personally I'd be reluctant to cut, and instead would try the method described above of simply disconnecting the other end of the pipe. That also gives a chance to clean the EGR pipe, and allows the re-use of the EGR valve (since you can remove the broken bolt from the EGR valve flange on the bench by simply drilling it out).
I hope that helps - good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado Says: "you're trying to devise a way to get the EGR valve out, but that broken bolt shaft is interfering?" - Yes, exactly! Thanks for the quick response! I approached this the way you outlined even though it meant a lot more work - on a Camry 2.2L, the throttle body needs to be removed to get at the bolt holding the plate the coils are mounted to. I was nervous about removing the EGR pipe, but I soaked it in liquid wrench for a couple of days, and it came off with a crowsfoot wrench and breaker bar. I also removed the IAC valve and cleaned it while the throttle body was removed. I ordered JIS bits and waited almost 2 weeks for them because of Christmas, then remembered I had a hammer-operated impact driver, which actually came with 2 JIS bits (sizes 2 and 3). I had been soaking these screws for a couple days as well (the screws were pretty rusty on the exposed threads. I put the throttle body in a vise with cardboard, and cut a little block of wood to protect the throttle body from damage. The impact driver worked well! I also need to do some VSV work, and then I'll reassemble everything. Thank you again for your great suggestion, and your videos that got me going!!
Great video.
Great video! Thank you very much!!!
Thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video ! Hope you make a video on how to replace the throttle cable. Mine keeps loosing up and have to tighten up every three days 😪
My god...... You are the best😊😊😊
nice video
Hello, thanks for your video. One question, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does it the other way around since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillates between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well, we took out the carburetor, total cleaning including the filter's MAF sensor, I clarify that you can't take out the IAC valve to clean it, but the carburetor body was immersed in non-abrasive remover liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and were untouchable. We put everything together and it starts doing the same fault. Then I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. Could it be a faulty EGR vacuum valve?
Congrats for making the best video for this gen of the Rav4 🙏🏻, it is really helpful for me, but I'm curious, why did you use Felpro gaskets instead of the OEM? 👀
Thanks! I prefer the OEM gaskets, especially for the throttle body, but if I cannot obtain them in a timely fashion, I will use Fel-pro.
In particular, I like the OEM throttle body gasket better, because it is a two-layer steel style, so there's nothing to clean up when you remove it. The Fel-pro throttle body gasket for this application works fine and I've never had an issue with a vacuum leak, but it is a composite metal material so it leaks a little bit to clean up. I hope that explain it! Thanks for watching : )
Excellent -- I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!! Thank you!!! I can watch over and over. Question the torque wrench what brand and size 3/8 or 1/4?
Thanks! About torque wrenches: the torque values for this job are low, so most 1/4" drive torque wrenches would cover the range needed. You'd want a 1/4" drive torque wrench that covers up to about 200 inch-lbs (note that is inch-lbs, not ft-lbs, or about 23 Nm). But there are also 3/8" drive torque wrenches which cover this same low torque range, such as the Icon 56614 (and those are more expensive than the 1/4" drive).
That Icon 56614 is unusual, though, because most 3/8" drive torque wrenches cover a middle range of torque values, such as about 10 to 80 ft-lbs (note that's foot-lbs now, not inch-lbs, or about 14 to 108 Nm). Then 1/2" drive torque wrenches would cover the higher range of torque values, perhaps 50 to 200 ft-lbs.
I have a lot of torque wrenches now from several makers, but for years I only had the cheap Pittsburgh torque wrenches from Harbor Freight. If used correctly, the Pittsburghs have been reliable torque wrenches for me, and there a videos on youtube that show that they're really not bad, especially if you don't have much to spend (torque wrenches can be expensive tools). I don't think there's a cheaper torque wrench than the Pittsburghs, which are about $20 each, and available in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives.
If you can spend a little more, there are better options though, especially because now there are many affordable torque wrenches which have the locking collar-type adjustment knob (such as the Icon 56614) instead of the screw-bottom on the end of the handle, like the Pittsburghs. I have both and vastly prefer the locking-collar type because sometimes the screw-bottom type get loose. The locking-collar type do not ever get loose.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching, and have fun tool shopping! : )
I seem to have a vacuum line right under the Throttle position sensor, that feels attached to the the throttle body, on my 2000 rav 4. Do you know what that is for, and why its different from the rav in your video?
Thank you so much I have a 98 and need to do this and replace my cv axle I also live in Colorado
I'm glad the video helps! Good luck : )
@@L35inColorado thank you. I am just waiting on my cv axle and wheel hub
Excelente video, ¿ tendrás algo sobre el cambio de aceite a la caja automática de la Toyota rav4 1998 ?
What a great video. Camera work and and attention to all the details is excellent. How are you holding the camera? Do you have a video about your setup? Thanks!
Is the vacuum hose that goes under the throttle body a special hose, or can I just buy hose at a local auto parts store? Mine is starting to split and I am wanting to replace it.
Thanks!
Wow, thanks for the Super Thanks! : )
And thanks for watching!
If possible, please mention at the beginning of your videos the other Toyota years/makes/models with which the RAV 4 work is compatible. I have a 1997 Camry 2.2 L 4 cyl. I am guessing its the same set up. Great videos ! Thanks for your patient hard work.
Thanks, I will try to do that -- as you know, the 3SFE and 5SFE engines cover over a decade, and there were some changes here and there, so it takes a little bit of research. The biggest things to watch for on Toyota EGR systems from this era are:
1.) some models have an exhaust gas temperature sensor while others use engine temperature, and
2.) some models have a VSV which works in the opposite fashion as the one seen in the video (meaning that on some VSV's, the energized state is "EGR flow" while the de-energerized state is "no EGR flow").
I'll look into the '97 5SFE and see what I can find. Overall, there are a lot of similarities between the 3SFE and 5SFE, and many parts are interchangeable, but I'm not positive about the logic on the 5SFE's EGR VSV, and unfortunately I don't have a 5SFE VSV on hand to test (part # is 25860-74050). I'll let you know what I find!
I saw another video saying that I can simply clean the IAC for a rough idle. Is this correct? Why would a person do all of this other stuff? What would you recommend doing for a 97 rav that wasn't maintained well the past 6 yrs(because of my bad experience with mechanics shops). Has about 148000miles on it. I plan to do all fluid flushes and a tune up. It jumps when put into reverse(I plan to check with amco to see if the transmission is still under warranty) and the idle goes up and down, occasionally shakes, there is a screech when it first starts and a small oil leak from somewhere that has gotten a bit bigger over the past 6 yrs.
Thank you so much for your awesome videos!
Would you have a link on a replacement idle adjustment screw? Mine is stripped. Any chance you would also know what the idle rpms should be once I put a new screw in there?
Respect 👍
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Question on the Throttle valve please.. When you apply vacuum to the valve, does it hold Vacuum?
Apparently my throttle body needed to be cleaned? Not really that gunky, but IDK, I'm not a mechanic. This video helped me to do it, though I didn't take it off the engine. Thanks.
That's great - well done on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
How can i fix the failing of plug smoke color results from my rav4 gx toyota 1996 model 3s engine
Hi L35 THANK YOU soo much for the time and detail representation in troubleshooting and resolving this nightmare code most professional mechanics can't figured it out. One question though, could you please share the part number or brand of hand pump so I can order it at a auto parts or Amazon please.
Sure, the hand pump in the video is this one here:
www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html
Any hand pump will work -- just be sure it doesn't leak, so you don't get false readings
Thanks for watching, and good luck!
I have injector cleaner, how can I use it to idle air control or carburator without release the parts?
cheers for this video, absolutely the most in depth for this subject I have been able to find🎉
some day i hope my rav is as well maintained 😂
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks Micheal
Thanks for watching! : )
What was that hose in your hand at 2:45? Looks like my folks' RAV4 had burst at the small to big section.
The hose at 2:45 connects that throttle body vent to the PWM VSV (pulse width modulated vacuum switching valve) for the charcoal canister/EVAP system: if you look up on the inside of the hood, you should see a diagram of the vacuum hoses - you can see the connection there, as well as the layout of all of the air hoses in the engine bay. That PWM VSV is mounted near the back side of the air filter box, above the charcoal canister.
I hope that helps! : )
Спасибо, с клапана егр с низу должен пропускать воздух со штока пропускает в доль штока клапана с впускного коллектора? Проверели дымом оттуда идёт(
So can the idle rpms be changed by that screw in throttle valve?
Great educational instruction, Thanks! Why is does the IAC use coolant input and output ports? I just replaced one of the hoses and it was a very tough job on the engine side of the hose. My car is a 96 Rav4 2.0 liter. Still runs great at 214 k. Thanks.
214K miles, that's great! For your question: the IAC valve has coolant passages because the IACV can adjust based on changes in engine temperature, but since the two parts aren't physically touching, they can't have consistently similar temperature changes unless there is a way to transfer heat from the engine to the IACV. The coolant acts as that path for heat transfer so that the IACV's temperature can change with the engine temperature. The variable resistance for "Hot" and "Cold" in the IACV test shown in the video follows along these lines: the IACV has a thermistor component which allows increased resistance in response to heat. It is my understanding that this is mostly useful for warming up the engine from a cold start (ie, a cold engine idles much faster than a warm engine upon start up), and that there are other components in the engine idle logic circuit that just the coolant temperature.
Hi, great video. What has my Rav 4 got to do with idling? It starts ok, only it doesn't idle unless I keep it accelerated. I changed the throttle and it does. Thanks.
I'm sorry that's happening -- there are a few thing items that might cause this. Check for vacuum leaks, especially the MAP sensor hose, but also all the other hoses. A stuck-open EGR valve can also cause what you're describing, but I wouldn't suspect that just yet. Other items are the TPS, IAC valve, ignition system (distributor or direct ignition).
Perhaps you can start a thread in the 4.1 section of rav4world.com: there are some very helpful and knowledgeable Rav4 owners there who might be able to help you out! Good luck : )
www.rav4world.com/forums/4-1-faults-fixes.85/
If there is enough "tool clearance" to apply Vice-Grips to the periphery of the screw... only a few degrees of rotation may break the fastener free. From that point, it's done. Usually.
Hi, What's the P/N of the rear cam seal or plug?
Which manual/book are you using?.Could you kindly share a link to download the soft copy
I'm using the Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM). I'm not aware of any links, but there may be some available somewhere. Here is an example of the book I'm using - Volume 2 is the book that covers engine repairs, and is the book shown in my videos:
www.ebay.com/itm/380880991501
Volume 1 doesn't contain repair info, but only diagnostics info.
This below may or may not be an electronic version - I don't know and haven't purchased anything from this seller:
www.ebay.com/itm/404169235833
I hope that helps - thanks for watching : )
What tools would you suggest I get to make working on the RAV4 easier ie obstruction wrenches jic screw driver and hose pipe remover pliers.
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- as you know, the Rav4 bay is rather tight, so wrenches are a must because there are some places where a ratchet and socket just won't fit; obstruction wrenches are nice but not absolutely necessary (I went without then for years, but love them now that I have them). I kinda have a "wrench problem" so I have bought tons of wrenches over the years, and I just really like wrenches, haha! But wrenches are great for tight spaces.
For auto repair in general, you'll need metric socket sets: if you can only get one set, get a 3/8" drive set that covers at least 10mm to 19mm, which will cover you for most top engine and body work, except for that you'll also need a 30mm socket for the spark plug grommet nuts if you ever need to get inside the valve cover (and you can also use that 30mm for the axle nut if you get it as a 6-point deep socket). You'll need at least a 3/8" drive ratchet and some extensions. I like wobble extensions and use them a lot. Ideally, it is great to have a 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive set-up with ratchets, sockets, and extensions.
For brakes, suspension and lower engine work, you'll want a 1/2" drive set that covers metric sizes up to at least 21mm (the lug nuts are 21mm; the crank bolt is 19mm, and there are a few 19mm and 17mm suspension bolts), plus a deep socket 6-point 30mm for the axle nut, as mentioned above. Flare nut wrenches are nice for brake lines and ATF lines.
The JIS screwdriver is essential if you're doing throttle body work because Philips or Posidrive bits will just ruin those screws, in my opinion. Hose pliers (I love them) are great if you can get them. Picks, prys, pliers as always useful and can be real time savers or even life-savers! Honestly, I kinda have a "tool problem" and probably like tools too much, and buy too many tools, so I'm probably not the best person to ask! But I hope this helps : ) Good luck!
Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me where that vacuum hose comes from that hooks into the bottom of the IAC valve that vacuum hose is missing off of mine I cannot find the other end anywhere
Yes - check out this thread from rav4world forums:
www.rav4world.com/threads/need-help-finding-a-part.327884/
Thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado thank you. I put a plug over it for now. I can't even see that hard line on the throttle body side. Maybe I'm thinking of the wrong vacuum line? Its whatever that hole is in when you take the intake boot off and look in the throttle body. There is a hole in the bottom part that was open on mine.
Would this help if my car is sucking on gas?
L35, what size JIS bit is needed for the IACV screws? Thank you in advance. :)
You need JIS 2. Good luck!
I’ve been struggling with the jis screws on the IAC valve. They’re so tight and the person who owned it before me already cammed out the screws so I’m left with nothing left to do but to extract them I’m guessing. Just need to get the new screws before I mutilate the other ones lol. Damn thing is stuck open and idling high.
I know the feeling! As shown in the video at 13:05, those little screws were so tight that they clean sheared my tool-steel JIS bits right off. If you have anything left to bite into in the screw head hatching, you might try the Vessel JIS screwdrivers shown in the video at 18:03. I *love* Vessel JIS screwdrivers. This little stubby Vessel JIS is extraordinarily grippy - didn't have these at the time, but they are even more grippy than the ones show in the video:
www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-920-Stubby-Screwdriver/dp/B00N3M391O/ref=sr_1_20
But if the screws are totally cam'd out, then you'll have to move to another option, such are removing the head (as shown in the video) or trying extraction pliers, such as the Engineer/Vampliers range or Knipex Twin-Grips. The problem with extraction pliers is, as you know, there's not too much room for bulky pliers heads. Some examples of extraction pliers that I can recommend in general (but that I'm not sure would fit) are these:
www.amazon.com/ENGINEER-PZ-58-Extractor-Combination-fasteners/dp/B002L6HJAA/ref=sr_1_1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIY7V7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
www.amazon.com/Multi-function-Gripping-Extractors-non-slip-neji-saurus/dp/B00NBSVYOY/ref=sxin_18_ac_d_rm
www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-82-01-200-TwinGrip/dp/B097C98LCT/ref=sr_1_1
I have all those pliers except the PZ-58's: I think the most likely to work in that space on such tight little screws would be the Engineer PZ-60 needle-nose, but I don't know that for certain since I just decided to cut the screw (with the the little $7 Harbor Freight rotary tool!).
I hope that helps - as shown at 26:45, the part number for the screws is Toyota 21821-25180...buy a couple extra! : ) Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you for the reply, I'm going to actually consider doing what you did and remove the heads and take them out that way, it may be easier that way. I purchased the vessel screwdriver just like you instructed and I love it! The only thing is that 3 out of 4 of them are cammed all the way out sadly. same with one on the electrical part of the valve. I'm gonna get this tackled down, just ordered the screws from toyota.
What and how are you getting the codes coz here in Australia on that model RAV4 gen 1 there is no obd2 port just the diag port in the engine bay on top of the alternator
I'm sorry I missed your comments -- on USA gen-1 Rav4's have an OBD2 port, so that's how we can get the codes here. The diagnostic port by the alternator can probably be "paper clipped" to display some kind of "code" with the check engine light (ie, CEL flashing a certain number of times), but I don't know how for an Australian model.
@@L35inColorado yeah similar to a gen 1 suby cel diagnostics
Where can I buy the vacuum line for the idle air control valve? Having trouble finding it and need to replace mine.
The best option is taking the hose to an auto parts store and seeing if they have a match for the inside diameter. The outside diameter doesn't matter much - you just need a good snug fitting hose for the fittings, which means matching the inside diameter of the hose.
Here is some info that might help, if you're looking for part numbers:
toyota-usa.epc-data.com/rav4/sxa11l/2352/engine/1708/
I hope that helps! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you! With your diagram I found the OEM part on eBay, Toyota discontinued it so had to look around for a little while. I’ve tried a few hoses from the auto parts store and they just weren’t too great. Again thank you so much!
@@dtomei4236 Outstanding - great work finding your part!
Does this RAV4 gen have a mass air flow sensor ?
No - the first generation Rav4 with the 3SFE engine does not have an MAF (mass air flow sensor). I hope that helps : )
I can not find the video L35, but I'm almost positive I watched one of your videos where you recommended using only Denso PK20TR11 double platinum spark plugs for the 2000 RAV 4, instead of copper or iridium. The plugs I pulled out of the RAV I am working on are Denso Iridium. Not the right plugs?? Thanks.
That might have been the timing belt video -- yes, the correct plugs for the gen-1 Rav4 are the Denso PK20TR11 platinum. I would replace the iridium plugs with the platinums. Be sure to buy Denso plugs only from approved retailers, and not Amazon, ebay, etc, because spark plugs are counterfeited often. Those Denso plugs are about $8 each, so if the price seems to good to be true, then they are probably counterfeit. I hope that helps -- good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much L35 for your valuable help. I use Advance Auto 95% of the time. Even if they cost more than the net, better safe than sorry.
Constantly amazed they stock parts for 21 year old vehicles. Hope you are healthy and happy in these uncertain times.
@@hardlyworkin3603 Yes, I use them too. You can save money at Advance if you order online, then select "pick-up in-store", and use promo code RMN25 at checkout online. That usually gets you 25% off orders over $15. I hope that helps : )
@@L35inColorado Incredible news! Had no idea. Definitely will help. That will save a huge amount of cash, considering how many parts I need for this old RAV. I wanted to get the Denso reman. alternator , but they are gone. So I have to buy the new Carquest Pro 90 amp. And a new Die Hard or Optima AGM battery . Thank you for your advice . CZcams is a great place when you need help from educated professionals such as yourself . So glad I found your site.
@@hardlyworkin3603 I just checked the RMN25 code, and it is expired, but this code works for 25% off: OFFERS25
So hopefully that will save you some money! : )
Hi L35, can you tell me please where is the air hose from the IAC valve plugged, I mean that the hose is plugged into the IAC valve but I don't know where to put the other side of the hose, right now is unplugged and when the engine is started it seems to suck air, it will be so helpful for me, thanks 😀
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- I think you're talking about the Idle Up hose, which is part number 17341-74040. That hose connects to a steel pipe on the back side of the engine (under the intake); that pipe runs towards the power steering pump and serves for the idle up required when turning the steering wheel (increased engine speed for the power steering pump). Is that what you mean? If so, here are some pictures that might help -- scroll down to post #18 and read from there. I hope that helps!
www.rav4world.com/threads/vacuum-line-replacement-with-high-temp-silicone-lines.255961/
@@L35inColorado yes thank you very much, that was exactly what I needed 😀 just one more question, there is a small steel pipe on the throttle body that is on top of the Throttle opener or Dashpot, I don't know the name exactly, it also has a hose but is unplugged on the other side, would you please tell me where is this hose connected? Thank you so much
The thing is that in your video that throttle body doesn't have that steel pipe 😕 may I mail you a pic of that?
@@alejandrosf8794 I'm sorry, I don't do emails like that, but if you can find a picture online and post the link, I'll check it out. But I'm thinking that maybe you have a California emissions Rav4, because they have different throttle bodies than the one shown in the video (which is Federal emissions). Do you have a California emissions Rav4? You can check on the underside of the hood -- open the hood, and look for a sticker on the underside, towards the front of the hood (white sticker with black writing, about 3x5 inches). You can also run your VIN at this site, and if you have CA emissions, it will show here:
www.toyota.com/owners/my-vehicle/vehicle-specification
Either way, if you find that sticker under the hood, the sticker shows a vacuum routing diagram for the other hoses on the throttle body, which ought to include the hose you're looking for. (The Idle-up hose isn't shown on that diagram, but the other hoses are.) I hope that helps!
@@L35inColorado than you very much for your time, you helped me so much!
Que buenas 👍
Gracias! : )
Hi, do you still re me 😁😁😁
Question... What is, instead of applying suction on the upper metal protrusion on the top of EGR piece or hosing, what if I put pressure into it, is it OK if the air managed to scape from the rims of the disc?? By the way I tested the pintel hiding when applying suction on the same upper port or tube, the pintel was holding for 5 minutes.... But I wonder if pushing air in the same port is supposed to leak some where around the rim of the EGR top???
I wish you are not busy.
🤔🤔🤔
That's a good question -- you're wondering if there might be some kind of valve in the upper chamber which would vent positive pressure? I just bench-tested your idea on a good EGR valve, and here's what happened (the video is unlisted, so please use the link below):
czcams.com/video/Azl6QzqnoQc/video.html
In that video, I only pressurized the upper chamber to 13 psi gauge pressure. There were no air leaks, and the chamber did not depressurize. I didn't want to pressurize it more than that because I didn't want to damage the seal.
As I mention in the unlisted video above, I would not do this test method -- I would just use the suction (vacuum) test method. The reason is because the valve was designed for vacuum, so I think it might be easy to accidentally damage the seal if it is over-pressurized.
If your EGR valve is holding vacuum for 5 minutes and the pintle moves up and stays up, then I would say that your diaphragm seal (upper chamber) is good. If still you suspect the EGR valve is causing an issue, then I would focus on the seating of the pintle (the closing) and make sure that it is closing properly (which can be tested using pressure, or using carb cleaner, as shown in the main video). It is possible for the spring in the upper chamber to weaken and not apply adequate force to close the valve (pintle down). It is also possible for carbon build-up to prevent the pintle from closing completely ("seating properly").
Good luck : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you.
I will watch the link and be in touch with you, just incase another question came along the way.
Thanks again.
I got the same brush gaurd
Sweet! : )
@L35inColorado do you know got the 2 bars that come with it go I have it attached under the hood
My vacuum modulator pipe is completely blocked. Any ideas for clearing it?
Do you mean the EGR pipe, shown at 45:18?
If so, you can try soaking it in carb cleaner, or something like Berryman "Chem Dip" - but be forewarned that it can take quite a while! By "quite a while", I mean days: once the carbon is broken up some, then you can try using a pipe cleaner (such as these below) to dislodge and clean the inside:
www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-tube-pipe-nylon-brush-set-90631.html
Be sure to wear safety goggles/face mask when using the pipe cleaners or brushes, because little bits of stuff will fly all over. I wish I could give you better tips - unfortunately, it usually just takes a lot of time soaking in carb cleaner to get that carbon to break up.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado Thanks for the reply! I ended up knocking a finishing nail through it to clear the blockage... my carbon cleaner wasn't working fast enough for me. Everything works great now! Cheers
@@L35inColorado I was referring to the little one at 30:51. I used a speedometer cable and a drill to clear the EGR pipe ;)
@@devonblaine Wow, those are great tips for clear those components (with the finishing nail and speedometer cable/drill)! Thanks for sharing your tips and I'm so glad everything worked out! : )
your videos should be the standard for people making car repair videos!
I need help. Where does the vacuum hose terminate on the opposite end from the IAC?
Outstanding explanation, i have learned many things. My car is camry 98 model 2.2 automatic 216000 miles running. Problem with my car is it stays 1000rpm at neutral when i put on D then stays at rpm 800, if i turn on the AC then 500 and car starts shaking, i cleaned throttle body only but not idle valve or egr. Problem not solved Computer error code comes only P0401. Should i clean idle valve? I found my idle valve has only coolant 2 hoses no other gas pipe ur one is showing 3 hoses, please suggest me what to do. Thanks
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- to answer your question, no I wouldn't work on the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve just yet, because the P0401 is "EGR Flow Insufficient", which is a different system than the throttle/intake/IAC side.
The P0401 on the 3SFE (Rav4) and 5SFE (your Camry) engines usually means one (or more) of these issues, listed in order of ease of repair:
1.) disconnected or broken vacuum hose (there a few little hoses that should be checked), or
2.) a stuck-closed EGR valve or EGR valve with a diaphragm leak, or
3.) a leaky/weak vacuum modulator, or
4.) a clogged up EGR pipe, or
5.) a malfunctioning VSV (vacuum switching valve)
Though the names sound complicated, none of these components is very complicated, and they are all within the abilities of the average DIY person with simple hand tools to test, remove, and replace.
Check out this video for trouble-shooting the EGR system -- the video shows a Rav4, which is the 3SFE engine, but your 5SFE is similar:
czcams.com/video/pdpnk2f7gnc/video.html
That video explains how the EGR system works, and shows how to test each component of the EGR system to eliminate the possible causes, one-by-one. Since you're getting an EGR code (P0401), trouble-shoot the EGR system first before you open up the IAC valve, because a problem with the EGR system can cause the symptoms you describes of poor idle and bogged-down idle under load (ie, when you run the AC).
Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thanks for ur important reply which i appreciate. I shall follow mentioned ur 5 tips and i shall watch linked video. i want to share something else about my car. 2 months ago my cars map sensor pipe was disconnected suddenly, which i could not find in the beginning, found at later while i did the computer check, but in between i changed fuel pump, spark plug and fuel filter as somone suggested. during this period i did something mess actually, after starting the engine i put the gas padel manytimes and every times black color carbon powder comes maybe due to air fuel mixture ratio, which i understood later. after installing the map sensor pipe the black smoke gone. due to manytimes accelerating the gas pedal some carbon may deposited in the engine or clogged the catalytic converter. so i used stp all on one fuel system cleaner once, and i dont know it works or not, can u suggest me is there any other easy way i can clean them or i shall leave it like this, if so then will it be harmful for the engine in future? or like this if i just drive the car it will dissolve automatically? someone said ur cars new spark plug again may worn out cause of too much carbon diposit, it can be true? i feel jurking with out puting on any gear during acceleration 800rpm to 1500rpm after happening this, above 1500rpm it runs fine. i shall be wating for your valuable suggestion. thanks again.
@@rafiulkabir STP Fuel system cleaner is intended to clean up clogged fuel injectors -- it doesn't hurt to use it or another good fuel injector/fuel system treatment, but STP or other fuel system treatments won't clear up a carbon issue. If you determine that you have a carbon issue, I would recommend Sea Foam Top Engine cleaner: it is very easy to use and can help (if you have a carbon issue).
BUT don't assume that you have a carbon issue just because of the black smoke, because while you were running the engine with the MAP hose disconnected, you didn't realize it, but you had a significant vacuum leak. This is because the MAP sensor vacuum hose connects directly to the intake manifold. So, if that hose is disconnected, there will be a big vacuum leak, and vacuum leaks can cause black smoke because vacuum leaks can cause the engine to run rich. Also, there would be incorrect MAP (manifold absolute pressure) readings sent to the ECM (engine computer) when that hose was disconnected, so your ECM wouldn't be able to get the right air/fuel mixture.
For more detail, what I mean is that with the MAP hose disconnected, the ECM could have been trying to compensate with more fuel...so you were likely seeing black exhaust smoke because the engine was running rich ("running rich" meaning too much fuel being injected, since the air volume values were unexpected because there was a big vacuum leak). If the black smoke stopped after re-connecting the MAP hose, then you're likely okay!
So, regarding carbon build-up -- I wouldn't worry about that right now. Instead, I would work on the EGR issue (the P0401 code). If you have a carbon issue, you'll likely find it during your EGR investigation, because carbon is what typically clogs up EGR pipes and valves. So, if you find that carbon is clogging the EGR pipe or valve (or both), then you can address that EGR issue first. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado thanks for ur detail explanation. It is helping me a lot. God bless u.
@@L35inColorado hi i watched ur videos and clean egr, idle valve, checked vacuum modulator, but couldn't reach vsv, and clear the error code P0401, driving since 2 days lets see it comes again or not. I do have a question about carbon buildup, if i drive the car say certain high speed say 80mph for 20 to 30 min it will help decarbonizing the engine? If this true?
53:10 I just realized I hooked the hoses wrong so I'm gonna remember to watch this again to follow the short and long hoses
My 97 RAV4 has just started to occasionally stall at red lights, or not want to take a whole lot of throttle at acceleration out of a red light. From what I’ve read on forums, it sounds like a have a dirty IAC valve and throttle body and just need to clean it out. Do you think that’s what the issue is?
Yes, that's possible -- but if it feels more like a misfire, it might be oil on the plugs. You can check that by inspecting the spark plugs -- if there's oil on any of them, then the spark plug tubes need to be removed and resealed. I would check that first, simply because its quick and easy.
@@L35inColorado Gotcha. I’ll check that, since its quick. However, it doesn’t feel like a misfire. It feels like the car is just losing power, like its air/fuel related. Thank you for replying!
@@L35inColorado So, just check my plugs (and compression ~190 across the board, cold engine) and they are COVERED in oil. Do you have a video or link to an explanation on how to remove and reseal the tubes?
@@erickbarroso767 Wow, yeah, that's what happens! Hopefully that's your problem, because it's an easy enough fix. What happens is that the RTV on the bottom threads of the spark plug tubes dries out over time and then you get an oil leak onto the plugs. You just need to re-seal the spark plug tubes -- I don't have a video, but I made this picture DIY a few years back:
www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-valve-cover-gasket-reseal-spark-plug-tubes-to-stop-oil-on-plugs.266729/
And here are some videos from others that are very good (Camry 2.2L 5SFE is very similar to the Rav4 3SFE):
czcams.com/video/qSiSC1bceT8/video.html
czcams.com/video/xFpi5axGK_E/video.html
The job isn't too bad -- just remove the valve cover and then twist out the tubes, reseal the threads, then put the valve cover back on and let the RTV set (I recommend you let it set overnight, if you can). You'll see a few different ways to remove the tubes in those videos, and the different methods all work, so you can just pick your preference (in the DIY, I used a pipe wrench, but I think the nut-over-nut method shown in the videos is a better way to do it, but it's tricky with a big socket, so use a big wrench if you have one, as shown in the video). Once its done, it will last for a very long time! I hope this helps -- good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much! Funny enough, I was already reading that DIY and I thought it sounded like you! I’ll be doing this pretty soon. Right after I fix the leaky oil pump seal😬
Great video thank you very much and I would like to ask you about fixing the IAC valve and
What is the adhesive material that is placed under the sensor?
Also, in the event that the two screws that you spoke about and warned against opening them were opened
I hope you answer me Thank you very much Sorry, I can't speak English well
Your English is great! I don't know what adhesive material or glue it is: it is sticky enough that it can be reused at least once, as shown in the video.
According to the factory service manual, the two screws on that plate by the pintle should not be opened: those screws are adjusted at manufacturing to hold the plate and a specialized spring and guide in a certain position to control the pintle movement. Here's a thread that shows those parts behind that plate (what you'd see if you remove those screws), and some more explanation:
www.toyotanation.com/threads/iac-internal-tear-down.1244441/
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
Thank you from the depths of my heart
Yes, I benefited a lot
Once again, thank you very much
You are an amazing engineer
I own this exact same car I want to ask you how much a car is supposed to go with a tank of fuel, 20 liters of petrol, how many miles is it supposed to go within the city to go to work and back home and go to the market and back home means commuting within the city. Knowing that the car has covered about 175,000 miles Because I opened the throttle and cleaned it before watching this video, opened the lower bolt that holds the spring and opened the sensor and cleaned everything with carburetor cleaner which removed that sticky substance but I think it started to use more fuel than before. As it goes only 80 miles on 20 liters of fuel Is this normal or is it consuming too much fuel? Greetings and respect to you for all the useful content you provide
@@user-khalil107 Yes, 80 miles on 20 liters is very high fuel consumption for the Rav4. A normally functioning Rav4 should be able to travel at least 105 miles on 20 liters of fuel in city driving conditions.
Were you having fuel issues before disassembling the IAC valve?
@@L35inColorado Yes The car only had about 88 miles on 20 liters of fuel. In addition to twice the torque of the car So I thought about cleaning the throttle and IAC valve to get better, but to no avail So, in your opinion, what is the cause of excessive fuel consumption? And what are the solutions? Bearing in mind that I had changed the air filter with an agency type, and also the spark plugs, I changed them with an agency type, and added liquid between the fuel to clean the injectors also from the agency, and I also cleaned the upper oxygen sensor I hope that you will help me in this matter, and I thank you very much for your response and cooperation
I usually take a small flat chisel of screwdriver and just hammer it till it becomes a bit loose not recommended but may work if you dont have a grinder lol
13:09 Lol
Yep, that was quite a surprise! Haha
Those JIS screw drivers are pretty expensive!
They can get expensive, but I have a few Vessel JIS screwdrivers, and they are all great and very reasonably priced! I have these, and can recommend any of them - if you only need one, I think the first link is the best option ($12), but that little stubby has been very useful, too:
$12 option, multiple sizes:
www.amazon.com/VESSEL-BALL-Interchangeable-Screwdriver-220W3J1/dp/B00E55DL4I
$7 option, regular length: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TG8OM6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
$7 option, stubby length: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3M391O/
I hope that helps! Any of these would make a great gift for someone who works on Asian vehicles, too! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you for the links!
Traduci en español traducir en español latino me da igual
Thats a pozidrive bit not phillips
j i s
Not
Pozidrive
My kind of ...........Woman.