How to join a worktop with a masons mitre
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- čas přidán 1. 04. 2023
- How to join a worktop with a masons mitre
#carpentry #joinery #woodworking #kitchenfitting
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• kitchen worktops
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Top job mate isn’t it strange I do this week in week out for 26 years and still watch channels like yours our lass thinks I’m mad
Yes mate I’m the same, I watch them all night 😂😂 and my mrs says the same
Same here mate 14 years into it, love it
@@kyleaustin3573 I’m at 17 years in and still watch carpenters and woodworkers 😂😂
@@LTWCarpentry I watch most trades! My pegs are very tight like yours and they were supplied pegs with Howdens jig.
I also pass router along back edge of jig and then use front edge as a finishing cut as there is 1mm of play in my jig and guide bush
@@kyleaustin3573 ohh really this one was great with the supplied ones but they are long gone 😂😂
I was taught to use the opposite edge of the guide slot to make the preliminary cuts and then a full depth pass against the side of the slot nearest the cut. That's why the slot is a couple of mm wider than the guide bush.
Yes I do this sometimes also, with these tutorials I like to keep them as simple as possible, people get confused when you start teaching techniques to them. Thanks for your comment buddy
That's the correct way!
Thanks for your time.
Subbed, purely for actually being so detailed on the steps.
Thank you John ! Glad to have you board
After this tutorial I would now attempt to fit my own worktops. Very clearly delivered lesson. Cheers.
Thanks for the support Gareth !
I hate it when people think it’s quicker to do the mitre in 2-3 passes with the router screaming for mercy and the router bit burning. 😂
Nice video mate. 👍🏻
Mate I have seen router cutter free them self from working them to hard ! Can be scary ! 🍻
Cheers, clear instructions, no faffing about 😊
Cheers buddy, really appreciate it 🍻
As a joiner I was taught that your top hat is a little small to your jig so you cut out near to you and the Final cut away so it gives you a nice finish cut but if you do the job right it does look good
Cheers for your comment Simon, we all have different ways of doing things, I would agree with you but I’m teaching people how probably have had little use of a router and that’s essentially a climb cut which is fine when you know you have experience with a router.
I watched a lot of videos, but yours is easy and simple. Thanks.
Thank you very much ! Glad I could help !
Outstanding work!
Thanks ever so much!
Cheers!
Cheers bob ! Greatly appreciated
Excellent job, I love you're videos, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks buddy, I really appreciate your comment, it’s nice to know people are enjoying my videos 👍🏻
Great video... it's amazing how many tips you come across when watching others work, even after years of doing this stuff... You're a credit to the industry, Mate!👍
Cheers Marc ! That was a really nice comment buddy !
Completely agree mate ! Always learning new ways of doing stuff !
Everyday is a school day !
🍻
most cowboys don't use rig just plonk the worktop straight without mitre join this is the professional method finish is really good nice job
I would only use a jig on a profiled edge, if it’s a square edged worktop I would do a straight cut
Nice one! Cheers chap!
Your more then welcome buddy, thanks for the comment !
Fun fact the Maisons mite use to be the 45 degree or more joint cut work top . What we do today is a Hickory Joint modern terms Maisons mitre . 🤷♂️
I did mitred mine the 45 looks much nicer and less visible but you gotta seal it well and make it near perfect level and well fixed cabinets below.
Nice work , Thank you for all the helpful information.🎉
Your more then welcome ! Thank you for your comment and support ! 🍻
Thanks mate that was a great video explained really well . 👍🏻
Glad I could help buddy ! Thank for the comment 🍻
Mate you made that look as easy as sitting round a swimming pool in Spain 👊
😂😂 nice one mate, deffo easier where I am now 🍻
Great video mate 👏👏👏
Cheers vic 👍🏻
I am Doing a Kitchen for a customer and its worktop day. the first time doing masons mitre thanks to this video and the bolts video. Keep up the great work,
Cheer Oliver ! How did the mitres come out ?
Good job mate and well taught 👍🏻
Thank you very much mate 🍻
cheers, mate, excellent video
Thank you very much buddy
Great video mate, just came over to remember male topside up and female face down, lovely install bud
Great summary mate!
Nice one Darren 🍻
Great video give me confidence to do it myself, thanks
Thanks for the comment Robert ! 🍻
Very well explained mate 👌🏻
Nice one buddy 👍🏻
good job professional finish
Thank you buddy 🍻
Nicely done 😎 good video
Cheer buddy ! 🍻
Very good professional job, what about corian worktops is that different to mate corners?
Top job!
Cheers buddy ! Much appreciated ! 🍻
I use plenty of color fill in the joint to seal it against moisture ingress, then as well as fitting bolts across the joint I also fit three dowels glued in across the joint to stop any step forming at a later date.
PVA with a bead of colourfill at the top edge is my norm. I'd probably recommend silicone though simply because I've had to snag joints done by bish-bash-boshers and if they use silicone, it's possible to take off the zip bolts and then dislodge the joint and re-glue it with proper alignment. If you tighten the bolts enough that should hold anyway so having a really strong glue is surplus to requirements. The dowel system is new to me, but sounds like a great idea for people like you and me who make sure to get it right when the final fixing of the joint happens. There's no point in recommending it to the speedmerchants though coz they wouldn't have the time.
If you are doing a one of job it's worth mentioning that some suppliers will supply your worktop pieces with the mitre already cut, for a very fair price. This certainly worked out well for me.
This is very true
Great video !! thanks 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😇
Cheers Michael 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice job, interesting to use silicone for all. Will try it on next one.
Cheers for your comment buddy, I really appreciate it 👍🏻
great chippy passing the knowledge
Nice one buddy ! I really appreciate that ! 🍻
Brilliant thank you
Thank you for your comment 🍻
When cutting the male, I’m unable to cut off as little as possible. I have to leave enough of a over hang to support the back side of the jig as it flex’s/bounces when running the router through… I hope that makes sense, was just wondering if you had any advice on that? Many thanks, really learnt a lot from your channel
Hi , i watched the video 3 times before attempting . Adating some old kitchen units for my garage workshop . Happly with the result
That’s brilliant buddy ! Really glad these videos helped ! Thanks for the support !
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Nice one mate, just subscribed 👍
Cheers buddy ! Glad to have you on board, if you want any videos in anything just ask
@@LTWCarpentry no probs and cheers will do
Next video should cover out of square mitre joints. Lots of older properties like mine don't have nice square corners. In my case a 2m run is 10mm out of square which would leave a big gap to hide.
Absolutely!
Very nice 👌
Cheers mate 🍻
Nice job , well explained, what silicone do you recommend ? Respect to you a good tradesman 👍
thanks useful info
Thank you very much 🍻
The thing I use for my worktops is someone else, it’s still wizardry to me but looks fantastic 👌🏻
Yeah apparently you use me 😂😂👍🏻👍🏻
What would be the process for combining 2 straight worktops? I'm designing a layout for our outhouse but it is longer than the full length of a single worktop so need to extend with a second.
I'm doing mine tomorrow. Wish I had a better router but I really don't use them much. I'm going on a router course later this year. I retired a couple of years ago, im an electrician, I really want to get working with wood.
Have a look on Facebook market place mate, routers often pop up on there. You should be able to get a dewalt or a trend for not a lot of money buddy.
@@LTWCarpentry I've ordered a dewalt palm router on ebay, was going for £99! Brand new. I'd like to get a Dewalt plunge router at some point.
@@LTWCarpentry Sink and masons mitre all done! Thanks to your video.
@@ourfrugallife they are a great little router ! You can’t go wrong, I would buy the trend over the dewalt plung router, same router just cheaper
Bushboard Complete adhesive is far superior to silicone and comes in lots of matching worktop colours.
We have been house hunting lately and having been a carpenter all my working life I’m saddened by the number of people that use jointing strips on kitchen rebuilds rather than pay someone to do a professional job .I call the jointing strips salmonella strips ,when I say this to estate agents they get all huffy and don’t like it
I see it all the time aswell mate, I had a company wanting me to fit worktops for them using the strips and refused, it take no time to join worktops ! Why not do it properly ?
very well demonstrated, but I'll still get you to do mine 😂👍
Let me know when you want me 😂😂
I've always wondered how that join is done so great explanation. One question - I noticed when you router the female side, the template was on the underside of the benchtop, but on the male side, the template is on the template is on the top?
Hi and thanks for your comment, yes you do this so the router cutter is always feeding in to the edge of the worktop, if you cut the other way you have a very high chance of the Laminate edge breaking out. Hope that makes sense
Amazing craftsmanship
Thank you very much ! 🍻
Not a fan of silicone in the joint myself as its not what its designed for but each to their own, i like to ues bb complete don't think there's anything better on the market.
As for your end strips, do you think it would be easier to do them first before you joint it all together?
Put it on with evo keeping it flush with the top edge then buzz around it with a laminate trimmer, comes out like it was done in the factory, that's how I do them.
Just my 2 cents, nice job though, as long as the end result is good it doesn't matter how you get there i suppose 👍
I find that adding biscuits between the clamp cut-outs helps to keep the top face flush when tightening the bolts. Also as a guide to how deep to cut with each pass, the depth of cut should not exceed the narrowest diameter of the cutter e.g. 12mm cutter with 12mm shank = 12mm max. 12mm cutter with 6mm shank = 6mm max. 10mm cutter with 12mm shank = 10mm max. etc.
12mm deep I would say is way to much for a 12mm cutter. I get that thats a guide but you will be putting excess strain on the router and the cutter. I normally use dominos but as this is a beginner tutorial I kept it basic
I genuinely having kit kats between breaks, than biscuits.
@@m101ist is a Kit Kat not a biscuit 😂 genuine question, my friend wants to know 😬
Hey mate, very informative post. Thank you. I saw that you used the UNIKA brand. I was looking on amazon. What is the actual jig called?
I’m not actually sure mate, it dosnt have the model on it, if in the uk have a look at Toolstation
Good if walls are square. Need to scribe male if not. Can sometimes be pain to get depth of male 100% . Might need to adjust male depths so join is perfect.
Cheers for the comment buddy, I actually have another video on my channel showing this process
great work !
Thank you buddy 🍻
What about the tear out at the bottom (face)?
Wouldn't it be better to have a piece of plywood under it?
You don’t get tear out with laminate
Golden rule of any DIY tutorial, basically PPE a must, even just eye protection, shows your take pride in safety
Easy.
🍻🍻
Thanks for video, would you recommend the Trend routers?
I am torn between the cheaper Trend T7EK router vs just biting the bullet and getting a Festool 1/2 inch router. Earlier this year I made the mistake of getting a cheap Bosch 1/4 inch router, thinking it might work for these kind of tasks, but it seems that only routers with 1/2 inch bits will work with these templates.
Yes mate I really like my router, I didn’t miss a beat and it takes some abuse ! Been using it for a good few years now ! This is the t10
And yes only the 1/2” routers will work with the worktop templates buddy, the 1/4” router still have there place though
Wicked video babe!!! Xxxx
Thank you babes xxxx
Do you have a video that shows how to cope with out of square walls. I've always managed myself but wondered if this might benefit others.
Hi buddy, yes I have it’s on the channel buddy, thanks for the comment 🍻
Worktops look spot-on, more than I can say about the socket being level ! Who levelled them up ? Stevie wonder lolol
😂😂 mate every job I go on the sockets are pissed !
Would biscuits in the joint help with keeping them flush
Yes they would I normally use dominos but wanted to keep it simple for the videos
Does it matter what size guide bush and router bit you use with these jigs?
Hi, yes it does these are designed to work with a 30mm guide bush and a 1/2” router cutter. 🍻
Great video. the only difference was when I was making a masons mitre I used masking take to the face side.
Thanks for the comment Robert, yes I have done this in the past aswell
Is it common for kitchen fitters to use straight cuts in the corners of worktops? As this has happened in my new £13k kitchen from Howdens.
Yes if it’s a square edged worktop, if you check out my video on how to join square edged worktops you’ll see how we normally do it. Some will still put a masons mitre but there’s really no need
My next door neighbour is in the process of getting a kitchen fitted 9.5k! The worktop is laminated but has been butted up without a jig cut and theres a 3 mm gap with filler and some chipping? Any advice please???
Do you have to use a half inch collet router or can you get away with quater inch?
I wouldn’t recommend using a quarter inch, it won’t have the power needed, plus you need a 1/2” router cutter for this to work. Cheers 🍻
You’ve only shown how to do a 90* corner solution which I’ve very rarely found.
Maybe cut away the bulk of the excess material away with a jigsaw rather than 5 passes of router.
There are loads of worktops videos on my channel buddy, I have shown all solutions
@@LTWCarpentry dory this is the 1st one I found in my suggestion box. I’ll hunt out the others as it’s always interesting comparing notes as to how others do what you do.
The only thing I would suggest is some biscuits along the joint to help alignment.
Yes I normally use dominos but as this video is a beginner tutorial I wanted to keep the tooling as simple as possible, I would strongly suggest it though 👍🏻
What size bit have you used for this please?
Attempting first worktop next weekend 😬
If you mean router cutter I used a 1/2” cutter.
That's it, thankyou so much.. wish my worktops luck 🤞🏼
How many worktop cuts would you get from a new router bit please ?
Not many to be honest mate, I normally buy a new router cutter for each kitchen I do, you can do more but it puts strain on the router and dosnt give as clean a result
Thanks I thought as much@@LTWCarpentry
Good video I take it you had nice square walls. When I have done this joint the walls are out off square bit of a pain.
This one was an easy one mate yes, I have had some that are 40mm out but being a beginner tutorial I thought I would start with an easier one, I can do a video on walls that are out if needed
@@LTWCarpentry Thanks for the reply that would be interesting video cheers mate
@@tonyskeet8583 no probs at all buddy 👍🏻
This is great idea, I would definitely love to see a video where you tackle out of square walls.
Great series of worktop installation btw!
Thanks!
That's easy to do, cut your female on your worktop and put it in position, then depending on the hand of your join either let the male sail over the top of the female and mark along the joint and set your jig to match your pencil line, or if the other hand pack the female worktop up with a couple of off cuts and then slide the male underneath and mark it up on the surface and match the jig to that. Remember to allow 9mm between your marked line and your worktop jig for the guide bush!
The jig in this video has a big cut out and if you're tops are out of square this will show in the inset curve at the front of the worktop, it will be gappy and look not very good.
If you use what we call a 5mm jig it takes such a small amount out of the worktop it almost looks like a butt joint and will allow joints up to about 15 degrees out of square before it becomes visible!
Hope this helps 👍
I’ve seen routing videos where the user goes from right to left when running for example, grooves, and when I questioned that method, the gentleman was determined that that was his preferred method even after I said that he was effectively going in the wrong direction for the cutter edge. End of debate, however, on that occasion!
In some scenarios it is better to do this( it’s called a climb cut) it can help with tare out ect. It’s not for the faint hearted though as the router can run away from you. Most cases I just go left to right
Can I ask you as your an expert can you put work tops in a shed to use as a workbench the standard type cheers
Yes you can but the thing you have to bare in mind is that these will take on moisture so if you have a damp or leaky shed the might swell. Hope this helps
@@LTWCarpentry cheers it should be ok brand new shed and I put an ir heater in it as it’s my workshop and got 4 benches to build in my wheelchair I’m hoping to get done before winter as been working on it almost a year doing inside insulation rubber flooring and boarded out
I have the same make of jig as you but it doesn't have a hole for 620. I have 616 and 635 but my worktop width is 620 (from B&Q) what would you recommend I do to get around this?
I would set the jig up with all the pins in as normal in the 616 position, mark the end of the jig on the worktop then take the pins out of the 616 slot and move the jig over 4mm to make it 620….. I hope that makes sense.
Thank you, that makes perfect sense I guess I was over thinking it.
@@keenbfb your more then welcome, just make sure you move it the right way 👍🏻
Could use the 635 and place a 15mm spacer/packer between the jig pin and worktop Which would make it like a 635 worktop if that makes sense..
Mine is still good after 40 years!
That’s fine really well hasn’t it !
Hi a really helpful video. If I have to scribe my worktop to the back wall and it’s in between a regular sized depth of worktop, how would you set the jig?
Ie: if I scribe a worktop alone the back edge where the smallest depth was 650 but the largest depth was 700 and where the mason mire was to be the two sizes met. How would you set the jog to cut the male and female?
Hope this makes sense 👍🏼
Cut the female joint first, place on the base units, lift it up by the thickness of the worktop, then put masking tape on the male edge, place underneath the female joint, mark with a pencil ✏️, then you can offset the jig to the pencil line,
That's what I do.
Hi there, brilliant video is there anyway I can make contact direct with you regarding a kitchen worktop refurbishment which was6as successful as I would have hoped?
You can indeed buddy, are you on Instagram at all ?
Hi mate, love your videos and just giving this a good watching again before diy'ing my own worktops.
Did i miss it or did you confirm anywhere yhe size of cutter and guide bush to use?
Hi Dan, thanks for your comment, I use a half inch cutter with a 30mm guide bush, hope this helps mate, good luck and keep me updated with your worktops
@@LTWCarpentry will do mate, 24 hour delay due to storm Babet, got all the old ones out now so a blank canvas... Will let you know tomorrow!
@@danhickman9716 brilliant buddy, any questions fire away 👍
@LTWCarpentry first two mitres done, really happy with it, thanks for the videos mate! We have some worktop left over so also going to build in a wee breakfast bar. Hoping to round the corners off with r40mm, anything to be wary of?!
@@danhickman9716 that’s awesome dude ! Glad they came out well ! And always happy to help, no I wouldn’t say anything to be wary off to be honest mate, just take you time and remember to route into the laminate, same as when you did the mitre
👍
Would you use silicone on the joint of a real wooden worktop many thanks.
No on real wood worktops I tend to use a waterproof wood glue
Great any particular one you recommend many thanks
@@lukestyles2615 I use generic exterior grade pva mate
Thanks 👍
Do you not need to use biscuits aswell as bolts?
You don’t need to buy it dose mate life easier for alignment
Somebody told me Micky Flanagan was a carpenter!
🤫🤫🤫
Nice butt and mitre joint or as City & Guilds and NOCN quals call it a butt and scribe. I generally always put a couple of biscuits for alignment as do not want to rely on knocking them down. Zip bolts are far easier to connect them as you do not need to get a spanner in an awkward area just a hex drive in your drill. Not a mason's mitre as you do not cut any material away in a masons's mitre, the material just butts up and moulds and mitres are carved in.
Yes mate I normally put dominos in but as this is a beginners tutorial I didn’t, I actually don’t like the zip bolts, I have tried them a fair few times but still go back to the normal bolts.
Thanks for you comment
What biscuits do you use? I like milk choc digestives.
@@mrali5196llf
@@mrali5196hob knobs are the strongest. Richtea are useless.
Butt and scribe, same name for internal skirting joint I believe..
👍
Will this work for square edge tops?
There’s a video on my channel about square edged worktops mate, go to the playlist title “kitchen worktops”
Thank you!
Thank you!
What brand are the clamps?
The are bessy duo clamps mate
If the wall isn't 90°??
how do you get rid of the silicone?
Let it dry then it will peel off buddy
Good tutorial but you will always be aware of the joint on wood effect worktops as the grain in one direction is butt up against the grain in another direction. The masons mitre is perfect for other worktops and you can’t see the joint. Good video though.
What would you do instead than mate ?
@LTWCarpentry a 45° Miter joint would look cleaner, no?
Nice video only thing is you did not have any PPE on, goggles, ear defenders, safety shoes etc
Thanks for you comment
I use CT1.
Can’t go wrong with ct1 mate ! Great gear aint it !
Hi mate,is that normal bathroom silicone.
Hi mate, yes kitchen and bathroom sealant
You say you've never had a joint fail in 17 years, our joint started to lift and bubbled up in places after two years . Joiner blamed us saying we must have splashed too much water on worktops !
No I haven’t had one fail, it’s hard to say why your failed without seeing, they will fail if you leave water sitting on them as water always finds a way (not saying that’s what you did) it depends on what he put in the joint. Sorry I can’t be more help
@@LTWCarpentry might have used interior PVA which isn’t waterproof or been a bit tight with the amount used. Always coat both cuts as it soaks in..
I've always used silicone in the joints except for 2 n was recommended colour fill as per instructions and both failed.. Back to silicon every time...👍 no problem
Depending on quality of worktops..sometimes cheaper worktops will soak up water if wet for to long even if its not on a join.. water can soak through the laminate.. no joint will ever be fully waterproof.. always dry them off
@@Boxingfanatic-fb8zg you say that but my laminate worktops have been in for 15 years and are start to look well past their best and my misses cleans then with all sorts of concoctions and the joints are still flush yet my daughters, installed by the housing trust started to blow after 2 years but the joints were not that clever when 1st installed as none of them were that flush to start with.
There’s good quality tops and sealants/adhesives but there are also some not good ones about.
You didn't mention the diameter of the cutter as it relates to the gap in the jig or am I being stupid...
Right at the beginning of the video buddy
Thanks
Hi mate, great vid. Someone fitted my wood laminate worktop and there’s white glue residue near the join. What can I use to remove it?
Hi mate are they real wood worktops ?
@@LTWCarpentry No the laminate ones
@@Wellard83 you can try some nail varnish remover mate, but try it on a small section that’s not visible first to be on the safe side mate
That's a bad fault with the jig that it's not wide enough to clamp properly without hitting the router body.
Yes completely agree, they should be wider
I screw the jig down instead of clamping to get over that.
Nice video . Do you ever use biscuits or dowels ? Oly ask as some folk that do these say they do plus when I bit the bullet and had dome help in few years ago (mainly as Mrs dome my head in lol) after less than 6 months they'd misaligned ..I had called on the guy that did them (3 cuts /joins ) and was reluctant to bother sorting it ..they all have lippage now ty
Yes I normally put dominos in but that will only help with alignment, that won’t help with the swelling or lipping, it sound like he hasn’t put enough or any sealant in it.
@LTWCarpentry he said he used silicone etc maybe not enough . I'll be doing jy own next time u did attempt it and was going well ..only mistake I made was trying to offset the cut but in hindsight I should have cut with extra at the smaller piece to but dry and see what gap I'm looking at ..not try and be a smart ass lol . Didn't scribe anything lole end panels etc ..never again . I've got a good jig and decent plunge router I've barely used as I've got a smaller router 4 small jobs in my shed etc ..your work looks tidy .
Ps the fitter told me my jig wasn't Amy good as it only has an 1 angle/return I pointed out that it flips over ..dull get
What if the wall is not square
Please check my most recent video