How to Tell When Your Wood is Dry Enough to Use | Drying Lumber
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- čas přidán 2. 02. 2018
- When drying lumber in the shop it can sometimes be a guessing game to know when the wood is dry enough to use. there are a few methods to determining the moisture content of wood but here are the ones I use.
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Fantastic. A clever idea to determine the moisture content for any locality faster. Thanks.
Once again, your videos always teach something! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Take care!
Thanks. My pleasure.
I'm glad you pointed out the irrelevancy of the specific number. I've seen plenty of questions online where people just want to know what number to aim for.
+leif52pickup lol yup. It all depends.
Thanks for the info, James! I'll still get one. It is very useful.
thanks William!
Very helpful video thank you
This helped so so so so much. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing James very informative!
my pleasure Opa!
Very informative thank you
Thank you, very helpful!
Awesome video thanks
Thank you, exactly the info I was looking for.
Thanks. Glad I could help.
Thanks James. Must buy one of those gauges and looking forward to table build...cheers...rr
+Richard Rider thanks Richard. You and me both.
Thanks for this
That's good to know James. What I am getting out of this is that the thicker & larger the piece of wood, the longer it takes to dry. Using a smaller piece for comparison purposes & drying time, seems ideal. Thanks for posting..........
right on. big pieces can take a long time but they do not deform as much
Really interesting, thanks James!
+Anil Mahtani thanks Anil.
Thanks for the info James! 👍👊
my pleasure Fred
good info - well done, thank you!
thanks man!
Helpful tip, thanks.
+Thomas Russell thanks Thomas!
Well explained James. Thank you. I abandoned all my moisture meters years ago and sold them on EBay. Now I weigh a sample piece on a postal meter since moisture can be weighed. Water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. On bringing in new seasoned timber (mostly slabs) into my conditioned shop I weigh one piece, then periodically record the weight down to tenths of an ounce. Once the timber stops losing weight it is dry and ready for use. My $20 postal meter will accurately measure up to 87 pounds. This method has never failed me and removes all the mystery of "when is wood dry enough to use".
I do that for most of my smaller things. some people really like that method. each to their own that is what makes the sport great.
Great info ...i bought a moisture meter lately and know nothing about levels
+Laurent Nahra thanks. Yup they can be really confusing too.
I use my moisture meter on the end grain to estimate where it should be on older pieces then I’ll check multiple places down the board or end grain of a fresh cut when tough cutting lumber. And I concur, I tend to wait until the moisture content evens out and stays similar for a while. I do tend to rough cut stuff let it sit for a bit to help balance out then mill too. But maybe I’m being overly cautious.
sounds like a good plan
It sounds very reasonable. Thank you
+Wood Fun thanks.
It would have been interesting check the wood with both meters and see how they compared...Thanks for sharing James.
+Bill K. Thanks bill. They both give different numbers. Because of different mesuring methouds. That is another reason why the number does not matter.
Thanks for James :) I have a couple of places that I leave wood to settle for a while before projects. It really helps :) ॐ
so true. thanks man!
Good information very good information very good
thanks!
Nice vídeo James! I lean sth new 👌
+Mikhandmaker thanks man
I hope the field meter is in your Amazon Store ☺. I have been looking for a new moisture meter.
+Douglas Jolliff I think it is listed in the description. I will have to check.
Have you checked alongside a Wagner to compare accuracy?
thanks.
Hey, I hear what you're saying about everyones moisture content percentage will be different for their own environment so the number is meaningless, but what about when you're making furniture to sell that will be going into unknown environments... what moisture content percentage would you aim for there?
Great video though, helped a lot.
I will still take it as low as my shop will go.
Great video, very helpful. Q: If you are planning on cutting up a slab to make smaller pieces, could you cut to rough size early to allow it to dry out faster or is that just inviting the wood to move? Also, if that is a reasonable thing to do, any thoughts on how much oversize to cut? I recognise that's a "how long is a piece of string" question, anyway.....
I would let it dry from fresh cut as a slab. it is easier to keep it flat that way. if it is like this and it has been dried outside and needs to lose the final bit when it comes inside then you might want to rough cut it all then.
hey James new subscriber n yeah just awesome stuff I enjoy it
thanks man! that means a lot. if there is ever anything you want to see go ahead and ask.
Hello. This video was very informative. I have a question, I understand that the wood is ok to work with when the percentage stops going down. But how often will it go down. Should I check on a daily, weekly, monthly basis? I’m a woodworker that makes small items like cutting boards, ect., but I’m going to start making hardwood tables and I think I need to start watching the moisture levels a little more. Thanks in advance for any information. Mike
It depends on the type of wood and how wet it is. If it is freshly cut I would check it once a month or so. If it's getting drier than I might check it once a week. If it's a big thick slab it could take a year or two. But if it's a small piece from a limb it may only take a month or two.
Great information James! Love the black magic meter... what’s the average price difference between the two?
LOL yup those are fun. I think these two there is about $20 between them. I have links to them in the description if you want to see the current price
good stuff WbW!
+usframe thanks man.
Like to see a short one on spokeshave use and sharpening...concave/convex...
+Jett Keyser I might have to do that.
Great video, thank you! I'm using a CNC to route out a small 9" L X 7 1/2" W X 2" D 'pencil box' with sliding lid. I'm using American black walnut with the walls & sliding lid being 1/2" thick. I also have a 1/2" partition running long ways in the center of the box. I purchased three dried blanks and routed them into the boxes. One twisted like a pretzel, but it was burled. The other two are looking great after two months in the garage. I'm in Florida with 90% humidity. To ensure I don't run into warping or other problems, I plan to buy dried, plained blanks and let them sit for a couple of weeks before routing, as I did with the last two. Should I wait longer or not at all? Do you have any suggestions or know of any problems that I need to watch for in making more of these? Thank you, again!
If they are kiln dried then letting them sit for 2 weeks is about all you need. the only thing is if you keep them in a non air conditioned garage then take them inside to the air conditioning they will change over the next two weeks. Wood will always change as the humidity changes. some times in big ways and some times in smaller ways.
@@WoodByWright Thank you, sir!
Get one of those bigger scales they use to weigh dead deer from hunters. You could weigh your slabs :)
Great video. I just ordered the moisture meter you use as I have a sawmill and will come in very handy. I have the same meter you do with the pins, but always skeptical about the accuracy. Also just bought everything from your BLO video to make my own. I cant wait to try it. Thanks much for all your advice James.
sweet Dillon! got to love black magic moisture meters! don't have too much fun with the BLO!
Good info James but it was a little dry.
+Make Brooklyn I don't know I thought it was on the wet side.
Last night She said my wood was TOO DRY
Brooklyn, Remember, the amount of dryness depends on your environment. LOL
With wood where do they were building find furniture and it was slinging water out of the blade and the boards twisted and I got in trouble but I was told to work with it
I'm in the market for a starter set of chisels. I'm normally the buy once, cry once type but I think in this case it may be smarter to learn to use, sharpen, etc cheaper chisels before I venture into a more long term set. I normally gravitate towards wood river for decent cheaper sets of cutting tools. Any suggestions?
Well, it takes most people years of work tell they can tell the difference between good steel and great steel. my go-to chisel set is a set I got at Aldi for $7. the most important things about the chisel is not the steel it is the shape of the handle and the shape of the head. and those choices are completely subjective. so if you like the feel of the chisel it is good for you but another person might not like the feel fo that chisel. so my best advice is to go get a cheap set (under $20) and see what you like and do not like about the way the handle feels, does it have flat or pointed sides. length of the shaft. socket or tang. then look for a set that feels the way you like once you know what you like. the steel and quality of the chisel is actually one of the last things on the list to look for.
I have a customer who owns a sawmill and he had asked me to build a dining room table for him of box elder. The wood had ben sawn about 2 years ago and had been out of the weather in a metal building. It was not stickered. When I picked up the wood, I checked the moisture content and found it to be around 16%!! He was shocked. Quite frankly, I was quite surprised since it had been sawn so long ago. IU brought it to my shop and stacked and stickered it outside and put a box fan on it 24/7. So far, the moisture level has not dropped to any appreciable degree. I am very hesitant to start working with it. Your input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! Steve
I would cut off a small price and weigh it. If it is the same weight in a month then the wood is in equilibrium. But if it is outside in the humidity it may take another month or three for it to reach a new equilibrium inside.
Many thanks for your response
How long should I wait be for staining a. Deck going on 3 weeks since built the would is up an down every other board is higher the other is this all normal thank you
Depends on the stain. but most of the time I put it on with in a week of it being built.
Just when I thought I knew everything...
Theoretical question here, can steam heating a piece of wood before drying release the tension in the wood to avoid twisting, etc?
I purchased some slabs of green Douglas fir, for a box beam project I had them loose for a week and when one started to cup I immediately got it stickered and in my bsmt, and there it has been a year now.
At some point it will reach equilibrium and I can work with it but how likely is that one piece (or any of them) to cup again?
Also my home has high humidity levels at times, will this be a problem?
The cupping is not due to tension in the board it's either due to differential absorption of moisture or due to expansion and contraction along the rings of the wood. Steaming the wood will release tension in the board but usually that means that the board will then twist into a more natural shape It doesn't mean that it will go flatter. You can steam a board and then force it into a shape that is just past flat so that when it dries and you release it from the clamp holding it in that position it will then relax back to flat. I hope that makes sense.
good to know but can i ask about a situation where you are in a place with higher moisture so it wont go down anymore but its too high to use for resin epoxy? I guess my question is, whats the safest moisture level that can be used for a table? Many thanks
If you're going to work with epoxy then you need to work on the table in a space that has the same moisture content as where the furniture will live in the future. If there's a big change between where it's made and where it will live the wood will expand or contract in the epoxy fill won't.
Awesome information and what you said about the moisture content is going to be different from area to area and also shop conditions it really makes sense. I was curious after cutting say the red oak from Matt should you now seal the ends again??? As always Thank You so much for all the content and questions you have answered. It’s addictive I now buy hand tools more so than power and it is definitely more fun during a build I’m so amped to get to the hand tool work.
+Thom spillane thanks Thom. I could but I am going to be stabilizing the cracks later so if they check a bit it is not that much of a problem.
Wait, they could just have emojis?! Aren't we always told in the magazines to let it get to 6-8%? That would be a smiley face I guess...
LOL something like that!
Will the reading be the same for every type of wood in a specific location, when it is dry enough?
It can very tree to tree. But if you have a good sensor. Then it should be within a percent or so. and that is usually good enough to work with.
So what do you do if your shop is at a different moisture content than your dining room where the table will eventually end up is?
just plan for the movement. good joinery will allow flex and movement. but in most cases the percentage is only a little bit in comparison to fresh cut tree.
Look at your manual page 9, Elm has a density of . 58 the grade is 3 do you still put the meter on 3?
I dont change the meter at all. don't care what the actual% is as that does not matter. I just want to make sure it matches the cut off.
I’ve been looking for a meter and wonder if I need to spend a few $100 on a Wagner or would a much less expensive meter work as well? Need it for woodwork. Thanks
The cheaper ones work perfectly fine. Unless you're in an industrial setting there's no reason to spend a crazy amount of money on them.
@@WoodByWright reviews I’ve read on Amazon folks complaining about having to constantly re-calibrate the Dr Wood which they say is a pain! Any thoughts on that? Thanks
Ive never seen a planer like that, background 4:50 , I had to look it up. what a monster. do you have to wear body weights to use it?
that is a fun one alright. here is a video on it. czcams.com/video/IpBNNtn9p_g/video.html
Do you have wood clogs on in this? Are those actually comfortable provided they fit right?
Yup. Best shop shoes. Extremely comfortable and protective. They are carved to exactly fit my feet. I stand on concrete all day with them.
what should be the dryness level of a brand new deck, before I stain it?
That completely depends on the type of wood, the current weather conditions and the meter you are using. but generally anywhere from 9%-20% if you are talking about fresh Pressure treated pine then normally I like to wait two to three weeks of dry weather.
So I’m still a little stuck. If I‘m looking to buy a slab that is at 11%, how would I know if that’s acceptable use? What questions should I be asking to the seller?
Ihe seller will know if it is at equilibrium there, but if it was kept outside and you have an indoor shop the % will drop again when you get it home. with large slabs I normally schedule a 2-3 month rest for them int he shop to let them acclimate and dry to the new surroundings. the % you may read means nothing as it all depends on where it is now and the type of wood.
How did you transport/ship those slabs from Minnesota?
+Mike Thompson in my mini van. Love that thing. I have pictures of it on my Instagram
If you get the wood to the right dryness in the garage, what happens if your using it for a table and you bring it inside after its finished, will the wood warp or anything ?
yes. every time the humidity in the air changes it will warp that is why you want good joinery that will constrain the wood and keep it in check.
@@WoodByWright Hi! May I know what good joinery includes?
Most of the timber in my shop reaches equilibrium at about 12% but most of my pieces go into home with equilibrium being at about 8% so how would you deal with that situation please ?
Just understand your joinery and know that the wood will move. Allow for expansion contraction.
Does the humidity of your shop remain constant or do you measure the humidity of your shop?
my shop changes through the year but not a much as some people that are not air conditioned. in that case the moisture in the wood will fluctuate through the year with the moisture in the room.
What if we dont have 6-10 months to wait for wood to stabilize?
+XaeroR35 you can take it to a kiln to speed it up. But you might run into case hardening. And kiln dried wood is harder to work with hand tools.
how do find the density you need to check the wood
That does not matter if you are checking it agent itself. But every tester has a different scale from the hardest woods to the softest woods.
What about 2x10 pine for surface burn and stain
Are you asking about Shoshugibon? construction lumber is dried the same. it may feel dry but it still has a long way to dry when you get it from the store.
@@WoodByWright yes and thank you for the quick response 👍earned yourself a subscriber!
How do you know what wood is what density?
you can look it up on the wood database. www.wood-database.com/
How much is the meter, and where do you buy it?
There are links to the meter in the description of the video if you want to see the exact one I was using
how do you determine the density?
Different readers list density in different ways. Some it's a selection of one two or three. Some it's a scale of 1 to 10 or 1 to 5. Others have specific measurements. Basically the harder the wood is the more dense it is.
So the lumber in your shop you want it to be about 9% MC, now what happens to the wood for example, chest of drawers you want to make with it goes into your house for lifetime use. What will happen to the wood then? The humidity in the house is probably different than your shop. Sorry, new to woodworking but love you skill level and videos!
The wood will always absorb and discharge moisture from the air as the humidity fluctuates. Even in the shop throughout the year the moisture of the boards will fluctuate. All we're trying to do is get the wood down to the current equilibrium in whatever environment they're currently in. The problem is I can't give you a percentage of the wood because your shop and conditions are different from mine and the meter you're using is different from mine. So you just need to know what is the equilibrium percentage on your meter in your shop at that particular time.
Johnny Squat!! LMAO!!!!
LOL thanks!
How do you get those heavy slabs into your basement?
+Damien Gee brute Force and vilent manipulation. That'd my father carrying the other end. Do you want to help when they go back up the stairs?
That sounds like an adventure, and as much as I would like to help you. I don't live anywhere near you.
You asked in your video if I'd like for you to talk about other woodworking applications. I do have one I'd like to understand better. I'm about to build a 6 1/2-7 ft wall cabinet for my dining room about 6 ft wide with 6 full length doors. I'd like the side to be actual wood, not plywood, I really dislike plywood, I'm trying to do things cabinet wise like they did in the 1800's and early 1900's. I'd like 2 solid wood sides. Now the boards I'll get for it will not be wide enough so I'll have to glue them up with tongue and grooves or butt join them and glue. Do I need to worry much about wood movement? Since I'm spray painting them, they will be just poplar 4/4 lumber milled to either 13/16" or 3/4" thick. I will be using shelve pins to hold the shelves on the inside, not sure that even matters. If it's an issue for wood movement then I can use a shaker style cabinet door set for the sides. Sorry for the long expanation. Thanks again, Gary
Sounds like you're right on the right path. If there's a good joint between the two boards for the sides there's no need for tongue and groove or pins. Those will actually weaken the joint. The two key factors are number one get a good clean joint so the wood is touching perfectly all the way along the joint. Number two use significant clamping pressure especially if you're using a PVA glue. Wood movement is something you generally only take into consideration if you are gluing boards in cross grain. Would will expand across the grain but it won't expand lengthwise with the grain. So using pins on the shelves is perfectly fine. Just always remember boards do not get longer but they do get wider and thicker or thinner and narrower.
@@WoodByWright Thanks so much! Also, I guess are saying that the wood I purchase needs to dry in my shop till it reaches equilibrium and then make something. Then when goes into my house it should be fine! Think that’s what you mean.
right on!
Wow, my fellow viewers are quick, I just got the alert and I'm 12th.
+Thomas Russell lol but the first comment.
How much
for what?
Dr master
still dont know if 13 % is good enough for my first epoxi table project :S
It depends on the type of wood, the meter you are using, the shop it is in, the conditions of the space it will be in the future. There are so many things that go into it. Some woods in my shop I know with my meter or dry around 9% and some of them are dry around 12%. But in my old shop outside they would be dry between 12 and 18%.
Yours is showing an "X" dont you want to see a check mark?
So if I don't have a cut off piece I can't know? I don't get it.
The cut off pieces just the easiest method. That's why I talk about several different ways of doing it.