Front Wheel Bearing Replacement | 2015 Subaru Forester | Wheel Bearing Noise Solved | 4th Gen
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
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No problems replacing the front left wheel bearing assembly on the 2015 Subaru Forester 2.5i CVT. I talk about the noises I experience during cornering at highway speeds after repairing damage from sliding into a curb on ice. This really was an easy process, and it will be very similar to other model years, and even other models such as the Crosstrek, Impreza, Outback, and Legacy. / @mtsubfly
Any questions? Comments? Leave them below!
Wheel Assembly Part# 28373FL000, Take note, this is a newer revision part number, the original part number may still be out there for sale, I'm not sure what was updated, but make sure you get the latest revision part number by talking with your Subaru Dealer. I shopped around found great prices and service at Lithia Oregon City Subaru Parts, they can ship to you. We actually bought our Forester here as well. Good folks. Link: www.oregoncitysubaru.com/
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The old bearing had about 97k miles on it at the time of the curb strike. I had the lower control arm replaced and drove with the old bearing (though it was making some noise) for 3-4k miles no problems. I am surprised to not feel or hear any ratcheting/grinding of the old bearing, but the noise is now gone.
Check out my other videos on getting your Subaru Maintenance up to date!
Keep in mind this is an aid to performing the general process, you are responsible for undertaking this task, researching, and performing all steps correctly. Torques, material requirements, processes and procedures could change by the manufacturer. So do your best to do it right! For the ultimate accuracy follow the latest revision of the Service Manual published by the manufacturer. If you are not mechanically inclined, it's not recommended you attempt this.
Thank you Chillhop & Saib!
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Thanks, I was able to replace my 2015 Forester XT wheel hub with help from this video. One thing to mention to anyone else who may be attempting this with only hand tools, you'll need to remove the axle nut before removing the break caliper.
Breaking the axle nut can be a real mfer, a buddy pressing the breaks still wasn't enough force to stop the rotor from spinning while breaking the nut loose. My solution was to jam a strong flat head screw driver in the grates of the rotor and spin until the screw driver is pressing against the caliper preventing the rotor from spinning. Then using 3 ft breaker bar with 4 ft steel helper rod for leverage and about a 1/2 can of PB blaster it finally came free.
NO!! *Always* remove the wheel speed sensor before you start hammering. As you move the hub out, it can drag the CV joint with it and the CV will snap the end off that fragile wheel speed sensor. And they're not cheap.
On some vehicles, you can remove the rotor shield before attacking the four hub mounting bolts. Makes the job easier and you're less likely to scrape your hands and arms on the shield.
Best tool for this job is an air hammer, but most DIYers don't have an air setup. For the rest of us, a hub tamer, slide hammer and Astro Tools 78834 "Last Chance" Impact Rated Hub Removal Bolt Kit are good performers. I've used the bolt kit to put some outward pressure on the bottom of the hub (after you tap out one wheel stud) while using the hub tamer to walk the top of the hub out. The hub tamer does need a serious hammer - I use a 12 pound sledge. If the bearing splits, the bolt kit bolts should fit the threaded holes in the hub and you can use a slide hammer on them to finish the job. Use the kit nuts to securely attach the slide hammer. No need to disconnect the strut and trigger a realignment job.
On reassembly, I Fluid Film the hub to knuckle mating surfaces, the four hub bolts, the wheel speed sensor, its mounting bolt, the shield mounting bolts (if applicable) and both sides of the rotor (the surfaces that contact the spindle and wheel). Makes for easier disassembly down the road.
I've never treated the caliper bolts and never had a problem, but probably would be a good idea to treat them as well.
Wish I had seen this comment before starting. Mine hub did not come off easily and brought the CV joint out with it breaking the sensor.
Speed sensor is easy to take out. Undo 1, 10mm bolt. Pop the sensor out.
I watch many of those bearing replacement videos but yours is the clearest one. Thanks!
I have 2014 Subaru Forester where i watched a lot of maintenance job videos and read large amount of articles but honestly your videos are the best. Simple and clear with step by step detailed.Camera angles are awesome man. Great job and thank you for sharing such a great ones.
Thanks! single mom on a budget! Going to do this at a knowledgeable friends house soon. Good to know what I'm in for!
You got this! 💪
Best Suburu maintenance videos on CZcams! George in FL
Quick removal tip: leave the bolts that hold the bearing assembly in a couple threads, and hit the heads of the bolts with a hammer.
Careful. I just had to do that and damaged the threads bad enough to have to order new from Subaru.
Great Job I'm doing my 2010 outback same same thanks for including the torque specs and neat idea for torquing the axle nut using a block of wood
i like how near and thoughtful u during this process
Thanks for sharing this. I just hit a curb on Friday, and it bent several components. Lower arm, tie rod, and probably a few other things. I was turning a corner it was pure ice. However I was going less than 5mph. For the amount of damage that occurred it doesn't make any sense. Thanks again it helps.
Borrowed my Mom's car while working on my Tacoma's brakes and it had a shake at highways speeds when pointed to the left. Got the wheel bearing on order and should knock this out tomorrow.
Best video I've seen regarding this replacement. I have a 18 legacy with a noise coming from the left front, after I got home and checked it, it was also hot and burnt my finger. Lol just had to touch it to see how hot. Yup very hot. Dealership is a couple hours away and would cost a bunch to haul the car there, so driveway fix it is. Thanks for the detailed video.
Now I know what I need to do to replace my rusted brake shields on my '14 Forester. Wisconsin winter road salt destroys a lot of parts around the hubs. Great video.
Nothing like that 'scrape scrape scrape' when driving...
Just wanted to say thank you so much for the details of your video. Very helpful.
Excellent video. Good details with step-by step explanation. 2019 Forester owner.
Thank you! Those new foresters are nice!
This is the best video I found on this topic! Well done..
Thanks so much for finding the source of the noise, I thought it was the engine as it had been running dry on dipstick and was nearly certain it was a piston bearing, phew!
This was actually so informative.
Really great video!!
I especially appreciate the torque specs of the particular bolts off the project!
Thank you so much, I'm about to tackle this tomorrow.
You got this! It will be fun! 😃
Very nice video, looks like a knuckle buster. Relatively strait forward with some fore thought and right tools.
Cheers from Brazil, I have a forester 2014, last owner lived on the beach area, so the bearing wheels was very rusty, on the highway the car sounds like airplane. I didnt do it by myself, took to the mecanic.
Now the car is so much smooth and without the noise.
I will teplace the cvt oil as well.
Good job!
I would also clean the shield and repaint it and remove the speed sensor before the start
I was thinking clean and relube the breaks while it's off. I did it to mine and they are just like butter.
Excellence bro !
Quick, simple , and well executed. Thanks
So helpful, and you made it easy to replace the hub at home! Thanks!!! 😊
Thank you
Very helpful. Planning on doing same for 09 Forester.
Glad you were able to get rid of the noise. Double time hammer is clearly the secret to popping those things off. Nice job.
Lol! Gotta smack it straight out!
Excellent video! Thanks so much for putting it together!
Great instructions. When I’m
Over 65 and I change from
Right to left lane it seems I feel a slight shimmy vibration on the front right. Left seems fine.
Really great, detailed video. Even a cave man could follow it.
This video really helped me understand the process. I also really liked your videos on front and rear differential fluid change. Will you make a video on how to change the coolant and thermostat. That is my next project. Thanks
thanks for the video. im gonna attempt this on my 2013 forester. i hope i can remove the bearing assembly as easily as you did.
If you can, spray penetrating fluid on those areas a week before the work. It can make a big difference
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
Nice work, and great tutorial - thanks!
Great instructional video!
Nice job! I had the dealership replace my rear bearings awhile back and it cost almost $1000. I will be doing the front ones myself after watching your video. Keep these videos coming!
Thank you!
I haven't done the rear bearings yet, though the process is similar, I understand it can be tough getting the rear ones out due to corrosion.
@@MTsubfly rears can be BRUTAL just soak the hell out of them with penatrating oil. Also removing the sensor above the bearing (abs?) Gives you direct access to the bearing and can soak the hell out of the bearing to help loosen it. Highly recommend a bearing puller .
@@MTsubfly extremely tuff i had to replace wheel speed sensor i guess its better to remove that sensor first and yes it cost me a 1000 for rear as well
The rears are so stubborn I gave up and bought new knuckles and dust shield, scrapped the whole damn mess. It came to that, after every trick in the book, sledge hammer, heat, krill oil, even a sacrificial brake rotor bolted on to beat on it. Eventually took a knuckle assembly off and brought it to a machine shop with a 12 ton hydraulic press. it did pop the hub out, but the dust shield still would not separate. By the time i was done with all of the trials and error, there was so much damage to parts and still had the other side to go, I decided to order the knuckles for both sides. Did all new ball joint and tie rod ends as well. goof for another 100k or better I hope. Ive come to hate this car.
My 2014 Forester sounds like I'm in an airplane, the sound coming from the back. It started three years ago and has gotten louder. Thanks for this video. I'm going to see if Les Schwab will replace the wheel bearings as the dealer just quoted around $1100. I'm handy but not with cars sadly.
Gina, take it step by step. You can do it! Autozone “rents” some tools for free.
Thank you very much, Because of you I did it, Michel Canada
Great video production, thanks
Nice to see someone else using lube and never-seize, sure helps when you're the next guy to change it again...Thanx for the video...
I like to use never-seize almost on every bolt and surface on metal contact
Awesome! Subscribed
i definitely recommend using a rubber mallet when hammering near more sensitive parts.
When I bought my Torque wrench when I was 78, I thought I would not get to use it for other than my tire rotations and brake jobs. But it looks like I may have to do wheel bearings at sometime, I have 116,000 miles on the sube. The prices for work at the dealers shops is off the wall, And I even got prices from a good local garage for $680 for just the rear set. Thanks to videos like this I may end up making sure I use stainless steel screws in my coffin! Mienike had a game going on with free tire rotation, but then when you went back the next time they said 4 studs were cross threaded and wanted $40 a pop to replace them, said Subaru uses cheap metal studs. So they lost a loyal customer!
Awesome video thank you!
Late Subarus are known to have weak front bearing race. Although the bearing is not damaged and still useable, a good pothole hit can dent the bearing race and cause a permanent growling coming from the bearing. There is a Service Bulletin mentioning this and the new updated part number.
Solid video!
Great video.
Great video thanks
thanks for doing this
Very nice video, thank you very much :)
About to change my steering knuckle. I snapped the dreaded pinch bolts head of the passenger side when changing my control arm. So had to keep the old ball joint in for time being til the parts arrived (which I procrastinated on cuz I'm THAT GUY 🤦🏼♂️) anyway had a pretty clear idea of how to get it done but can't do enough research right? This bearing video was VERY good. Hopefully I can get camber bolts realigned properly as to avoid a new alignment since I got one recently. Thanks again for the vid 👊🏼
Very good info !
Thanks for.the vídeo man, i Will do that here! From Brazil!
Thanks & Goodluck! Love your country's coffee! 😀
Clean Instructions!
Thank you for posting this. I'm curious how you have so little rust/corrosion on your Subaru... mine is a MESS by comparison - 2014 w/48k and it's a lost cause down there.
Good video, thanks, could you share the orings part numbers? the gaskets for the plugs?
Another good trick is when tightening the axle nut is to have the brake caliper installed and put a prybar into the brake rotor to stop it moving.
Can you provide what ratchet you used to remove those 4 bolts?
Would it then be easier to replace the cv axel at this point if need be? Instead of messing with the alignment bolts?
Thank you
Hi Mark, great videos on Forester maintenance. Have you got a "coolant replacement video" on the list yet? I really enjoy your thorough service procedure. Thank you.
Not yet! Its on my radar, I definitely need to do that one.
Subaru blue is 100,000 miles. A lot longer than most but I hit a deer and had to get some work done.
Great video! Concise yet thorough. Excellent editing and lighting. Easy to follow. Good use of music. FYI, Liquid Wrench outperformed PB Blaster in very thorough testing by Project Farm. As an aside, nice tires on your Forester. I really appreciate your work. Where did you find the torque values? Thanks.
Forget the question. I found the answer in the comments. Thanks again!
Just bought a Subaru 2020 Outback Premium I guess still the same setup has the 2015 Subaru for now no issue brand new car with 40 miles we going to move to Oregon this year or next year depend of the COVID-19 to Corvallis from Las Vegas sick of the heat in Vegas for 18 years now. It's a great Video I'm not worry now I don't drive to much these day my old Honda 2002 Civic EX got 19,000 miles but it's nice to know about maintenance the dealer suck with their gouging prices that is why I never bought a new car in 18 years it's a rip off not an investment we pay $800 for Subaru registration new License plates in Vegas what a rip off time to move on yes higher taxes in Oregon on housing but no sale tax like Nevada .
Danial 2020, Glad to hear from you. I think you will find your Subaru will work well in Oregon in all driving conditions, especially in snow, and hydroplaning in the rain.
Corvallis will be a huge change, get ready for rain my friend, I moved out of the "valley" due to the rain.
I hope when you move here you register to vote, our state is raising taxes, and hiding how they do it. A recently passed multi billion dollar tax was passed despite push-back, but it was promoted to be a tax on rich greedy businesses and corporations. It actually is a tax on businesses gross sales the the business owner has to pay, the consumer never sees it. How does the business man cover this new cost to business? It's a trickle down SALES TAX. This is one example of many.
Is this the same procedure for the rear bearings?
man my 2007 OB same.. WHen i do a turn left or right i can hear it. Damn
Thanks for sharing this. Q: why not remove the wheel speed sensor to avoid damage? Thanks
You can -maybe you should... I have enough confidence in myself to leave it... (final words before I actually damage it)
Really though, if your careful, and aware of it you should be fine, removing it could damage it too! Some things are better left alone, glad you liked this, thank you VERY very much! :-)
Where do you find these torque specs. Would be so helpful at times.
Great video!
I get mine from calling the dealer that the car was purchased from.
I have listed the torque specs that I used in the video. Thanks!
did you have any iisue with your driver side window not rolling down ? since you had your car
I do. The automatic driver side doesn't work. On an 18. And also the driver side control for the front passenger window
Which online subaru store do you use to buy OEM parts?
I ordered over the phone with Oregon City Lithia Subaru Parts Center. The guy was very helpful, looked up torque specs, confirmed procedures, prices were good and so was shipping. It cost only about $30-$40 more than the large subaru parts website, that had no contact information, no help finding parts, costly returns, and was trying to charge a tax they arent supposed to. ..
Do you ever go back and torque your bolts after 50 miles or so?
The lug nuts would be good incase torqing the wheels on with the car on the ground, as this could cause a light clamp up. But you could torque check them. They should be good 2 go.
Thanks. Was the WB bad or did you replace a good WB?
It was bad
is it the same process for replacing the rear wheel bearings? Also, where did you find the torque specs for everything? Thanks!
Kurt, it's a very similar process doing the rears. I dont have a video out on them yet. I know there are a few on youtube. I can tell you I understand the rears can be toughest, and rusted on, so bring penetrating lube to the process. All specs I got from talking with a parts counter guy who knew his stuff, and looked them up in the manual for me. This was where I bought my parts, Lithia Oregon City Subaru. Cheers!
@@MTsubfly I tried to do my rears and even had an air hammer but could not get them to budge. i actually split the hub. luckily the bearing didn't fall out and was able to get them back together and had to go to a garage to get the rears done. Luckily they said yes to using my parts. It tok two guys on air hammers to get them off.
Tried this today, slide hammer pulled the assembly apart and left half the bearing in the knuckle, ended up having to remove the knuckle and pound it out from the back. Esh what a nightmare. Now I need an alignment to set the chamber.
It's camber, not chamber. And you could've used the four threaded holes in the hub to attach your slide hammer - no need to pull the knuckle out.
I’ve done this for the rear bearing for 70€ (not OEM) you are such a pro Men...what’s your profession?
Great job MT
Mostly aviation mechanic. Thanks.
Oh god!! That’s what I’m studying right now!
I’ve just finished first year, September I start second,
It’s a very complex and responsable job, lot of lives in hands of mechanics.
Thats great Men!
@@andinamm2246 That's Great! I hope the career path does well for you! It can be a very technical profession, and one with a lot of responsibility & integrity.
Hey MT, finished my studies las June, the second best note of clase after genius Enrique (also engenier), now I’m beginning my Three month practices This Monday, I’ve choosed doing it in Salamanca for the fire extinction planes Canadair, I’m very exited
What size is the screw you used to remove the rotor? Where did you get it? what kind of thread was it? Thanks!
How did you find the Torque Spec for the axle nut? Thanks!
I don't remember the size. Its Metric, coarse thread I think, don't force any screw in there.
@@seanmclaughlin7415 I found my torque spec from the Subaru parts dealer I bought all my parts from. Had them email me a few screen shots.
@@MTsubfly Thank you and Thank you!
You make it look too easy! I'm guessing you're in the southwest on a low-mileage vehicle? Just tried doing this on my 2015 Forester with 175,000 miles and 5 years of drivign in upstate NY winters. Could only get one bolt off. So much for trying to save a few bucks. Off to the shop on Monday. Grrr...
Soak it in pb blaster and wait a week. Heat the bolt up with a heat gun, use an impact gun. Might help. I was at about 100k miles 2015, Oregon, we don't really use salt anywhere on the roads.
@@MTsubfly Thanks man. Yeah the roads here are half asphalt and half salt it seems like (Syracuse is the snowiest city in the US and they go through a bazillion shit tons of road salt every winter!!) - LOL! The knuckle is rusted pretty good. Gonna just have the shop do it and give myself an 'A' for effort for what should otherwise be a fairly straightforward job! I'm sure they'll appreciate that it's already been bathed in PB Blaster! Got one bolt out, the other two are either too difficult to access with my tools or too stubborn. The last bolt backed out a little bit but wouldn't move past that. Not gonna risk snapping the head off... so I'll leave it up to the guys who are better set up than I am (and I have a ton of tools!).
My bearing removal problem aside, Subaru makes cars that are fairly easy for the weekend DIY'er to work on... and your videos are pretty good guides. Their OEM wheel bearings are crap. I've paid to replace 3 of them already and I'm ready for #4. Gave it my best shot but you can only do so much before submitting to the repair shop!
@@lesterawilson3 cool! That's good info. What brand bearing you going with now? I've only had to replace 1 because of hitting a curb. Others still spin great. 109k miles now
@@MTsubfly Not sure - depends on where the shop gets its parts from. Reading around - you want to use Timkin or Moog bearings - and only the ones made in the USA. In today's case - I grabbed a CarQuest brand from the local Advanced Auto.
pretty sure id pay the extra buck 29 ........great video though.
Get yourself “hub shocker” $80 and your bearing will be removed in 2 minutes or less.
Agreed. A hub tamer is a good investment for working on this style of wheel bearings.
Wow yours came off easssssy. My rear 2015 outback didnt wanna come out even with a hub buster and 10lb sledge. czcams.com/video/DNI9MGiYGB0/video.html
Sounds rough! Yea I refilmed after I got mine off. PB Blaster and smacking it didn't work so used a screw and it popped out, so still not too bad. If one could plan ahead, spray it a week before might help, paired with heat from driving...🤔
These things are no joke! Have a better chance of hearing Joe Biden speak a full sentence correctly dad