I dont get the difference between fully pull back the trigger and using the cut away. Is the way - you pull the needle back - longer with the cut away? Otherwise isnt it the same when i push the trigger down und pull it back until there is no more room? 🤔
Wonderful, thank you so much for this. I'm a modeller working in small scale military vehicles and aircraft mainly and very much a beginner with an airbrush so I've made sure to subscribe to your channel. Whilst I'm a very long way from becoming an artist, this has helped remove some of the mystery. The presentation, demonstration and explanations are very clear, patient and pitched at exactly the right level. I'll be checking back on your other videos as soon as I get the chance.
My main use for the cut away handle is when im no longer using the airbrush, i pull the trigger far back then release the lock nut now the needle is inside the brush and you can store it to prevent bent needles etc
Would you know does the PS771 have a big advantage over the PS270 for a model builder. The price difference is significant for a reduction in needle size by 0.02mm. Thanks for the videos, very informative 👍
Yes you can, prep the same way you would for artwork. Give the panel a good clean with prepsol, then sand with either 800 wet and dry or a grey scotch pad then once you have completed the sanding , another clean with prepsol to remove any sanding dust / residue and you can get painting 👍🏻
What is the purpose of the black dial on the back, the one you tried to pass the needle through? On my Renegade or my Sotar it limits the needle travel for repeated work.
Yes, it does the same as your renegade you can wind it in and out to stop how far the needle / trigger can go back therefore allowing you to have the same amount of paint every time as per the adjustment that you have set 👍🏻
So this moves the needle more that the trigger does or just in a different/easier manner? I've wondered what its purpose was. As always, I enjoy learning from you! Thanks!
@@AirbrushAsylum whats the difference when you can blast the paint by pulling the lever all the way to the back ? Its technically the same principal right ?
@@plamocollector this pulls the needle back much further than the amount the full travel of the trigger does. Totally opens the front hole and allows a stronger blast of air and paint/thinner.
I have a friend who wants to start airbrushing, to do makeup (including horror and other special effects), bodypainting, and small canvasses. I'm pretty sure one of the small compressors with a 3L tank is the best option there, but would one of the Master brush kits that come with .2, .3. and .5 needles and nozzles be a good enough quality option for its versatility, or should we spend a little more on an entry level brand name brush, like an Iwata Neo, Sparmax Max35, Creos, or Badger Patriot?
That’s a great question the kit described definitely has a great setup of needle sizes , I guess whether spending more is a better option is really up to your mate? I know that from my experience the brands you have mentioned all have great brushes which will last , that said I personally have never used the ‘master’ brand but I have heard lots of good feedback from the community here, so perhaps someone who has used one and can provide feedback would be helpful 👍🏻👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum Thanks for the reply. It seems like the Master brand is a cut above the really cheap brushes out of China, but still lower quality than the costlier name brands. But, if it can't spray paint evenly and with good fine detail, then it will hold back my friend, since she'll be a complete beginner, and I've read that some of the Chinese brushes just don't have the detail abilities of the name brands, and I don't want that to hold her back as she's learning
Imo it's about the air and the needle. First decide on prefered medium flow rate and pressure required. Choose a compressor to suit. Love my iwata kustoms for candy pearl irridencents it's about the needle and nozzle. Iwata custom microns is about the needle. Been using badger 150 since the late 1980s it's a forgiving workhorse in all aspects of airbrushing. All aspects includes cleaning maintenance and murphys law adjusting/sanding bent needles.
Iwata generally makes good stuff but bear in mind their NEO line is not made by Iwata proper. They are made under license/contract by another manufacturer. They also have what I consider to be an annoying design flaw in that the channel ducting air from the trigger stem region to the head of the brush is susceptible to clogging. It baffled me the first time I grappled with it. Air at the head was restricted so I cleaned the brush and air valves thoroughly as I usually do. Upon reassembly, air was still retarded from reaching the front of the brush, which, with the nozzle assembly removed looked clean. The blockage was deep within the small, forward facing port which interfaces with the nozzle assembly to transfer air to the head. After digging in it with a small pick and solvent, a chunk of dried paint was dislodged and the airflow was restored. As many airbrushers do, I sometimes clear my brushes using back pressure by covering the nozzle to create a reverse flow which can clear the brush. It is my conclusion that practicing this with NEOs is not advisable as the port carrying air is located in a spot which invites paint to backflow well up and into it. Just a heads up for people considering these brushes. I've been airbrushing for forty years now. I now own and use seven airbrushes. One is the entirely unorthodox and irreplaceable Paasche AB. From the looks of mine, was made in the 1950s. The rest of my brushes are all Iwatas, and two of those are NEOs, one syphon and one gravity. Aside from that single issue with the NEOs, they are quite decent and serviceable airbrushes. I recommend anyone beginning to buy a high quality airbrush from the get go. They are like guitars, you can get a cheap one to learn how to play but the drawbacks of a poor quality instrument will likely set you back progress wise and may even discourage you from pursuing it. My very first airbrush was a Badger and frankly, I didn't know how good or easy airbrushing was supposed to be until I was asked by a writer friend to airbrush something on short order while visiting him at an ad firm he worked for. I didn't have time to get my airrush, sat down at another artist's desk and used an Iwata for the first time. I went and bought one for myself and never looked back. Honestly, it was at a point in my art endeavors where I was ready to give up airbrushing altogether. Almost forty years on, I now do work which is often mistaken for photographs. As far as the cutaway handles. They're a gimmick in my opinion. Full enough flow can be achieved with the trigger and seeing the chuck move doesn't mean the Needle is drawing back. Needle stops are fine but even those become unnecessary for anyone who has gained some experience with their craft. There's a lot to be said for muscle memory and simple practice.
You could re tighten your lock nut after your put the trigger back at the closed position then repeat steps to get the needle sticking out the back and grab it
Yep, you can but it would have been better if that needle was a fraction longer then it would make it SO easy to remove it without the need for all these extra steps 😱
@@AirbrushAsylum maybe once twice at the most more and it looks like it would make it , it's still a sick brush I just started to airbrush recently so I'm still learning
If you want great tutorials on this then visit School of Realism Dru Blair has classroom in a box kits where he shows you exactly how to render realistic looking hair 👍🏻
Why did you loosen the nut? Why not just pull back on it? Which is exactly the same as the cutaway. Fair enough, pulling the needle dumps more paint, in that sense, you're better with the solid handle and undo it when it blocks.
Because as you mentioned it dumps more paint and I wanted to show how the cutaway works , but either way is fine 👍🏻 thanks for your comment much appreciated
The cutout has another use. Some people, if their airbrush is showing signs of clogging, use the cutout to grab the retention nut and pull back on it, withdrawing the needle, and then release it, letting it snap back. This can sometimes resolve a spraying issue. I don't do it, and I'm not saying it's useful. I'm just saying I've been told that this is what some people use it for.
Yes you can do that but sometimes I prefer to pull the needle out entirely to do a bigger blast to ensure that I can blast out any dried paint and other contaminants 😉
💥 Want finer lines ? This tip will help - czcams.com/video/04kF_7l_Yf4/video.html
I dont get the difference between fully pull back the trigger and using the cut away. Is the way - you pull the needle back - longer with the cut away? Otherwise isnt it the same when i push the trigger down und pull it back until there is no more room? 🤔
Wonderful, thank you so much for this. I'm a modeller working in small scale military vehicles and aircraft mainly and very much a beginner with an airbrush so I've made sure to subscribe to your channel. Whilst I'm a very long way from becoming an artist, this has helped remove some of the mystery. The presentation, demonstration and explanations are very clear, patient and pitched at exactly the right level. I'll be checking back on your other videos as soon as I get the chance.
My main use for the cut away handle is when im no longer using the airbrush, i pull the trigger far back then release the lock nut now the needle is inside the brush and you can store it to prevent bent needles etc
Yes, great tip thank you so much for sharing 👍🏻
short to the point tutorials, no bullshit and waffling. Great stuff mate.
Great video. Now I know why. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the information…very helpful.
No probs glad you enjoyed it 👍🏻
Very useful information. Many thanks :)
Thank you so much glad you enjoyed the vid and found it helpful 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm glad mine are on the top and bottom. Badger 105 Patriot. I love it.
I love this video.
I have been looking for a cut away handle for my Eclipse and mow have learned of added uses for it beyond restric
...restricting paint flow !...thanks for all the uses of this handle.
...restricting the paint volume!
...so much more usefull than i thought!... a must have !!... thanks.
Would you know does the PS771 have a big advantage over the PS270 for a model builder. The price difference is significant for a reduction in needle size by 0.02mm.
Thanks for the videos, very informative 👍
Another great video. Just wondering can you use aerosol paints on a aluminum panel. If so what preperation would you do thanks
Yes you can, prep the same way you would for artwork. Give the panel a good clean with prepsol, then sand with either 800 wet and dry or a grey scotch pad then once you have completed the sanding , another clean with prepsol to remove any sanding dust / residue and you can get painting 👍🏻
Thank you for making this
It's quite amazing how much that happens with that cut away aswell it sticking on your skin!
yes I know and exactly why I prefer the solid handle and I often swap my cutaway handles over to solid ones.
Great video 👍
Very helpful
What is the purpose of the black dial on the back, the one you tried to pass the needle through? On my Renegade or my Sotar it limits the needle travel for repeated work.
Yes, it does the same as your renegade you can wind it in and out to stop how far the needle / trigger can go back therefore allowing you to have the same amount of paint every time as per the adjustment that you have set 👍🏻
How do you like this gsi against the micron?
So this moves the needle more that the trigger does or just in a different/easier manner? I've wondered what its purpose was.
As always, I enjoy learning from you! Thanks!
It allows for easier access as well as being able to pull back (full throttle) and blast out any blockages or dried paint 👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum whats the difference when you can blast the paint by pulling the lever all the way to the back ? Its technically the same principal right ?
@@plamocollector this pulls the needle back much further than the amount the full travel of the trigger does. Totally opens the front hole and allows a stronger blast of air and paint/thinner.
@@cjlake5754 thats explain pretty much everything. I have been wondering what the function is for all this time. Thanks !
I have a friend who wants to start airbrushing, to do makeup (including horror and other special effects), bodypainting, and small canvasses. I'm pretty sure one of the small compressors with a 3L tank is the best option there, but would one of the Master brush kits that come with .2, .3. and .5 needles and nozzles be a good enough quality option for its versatility, or should we spend a little more on an entry level brand name brush, like an Iwata Neo, Sparmax Max35, Creos, or Badger Patriot?
That’s a great question the kit described definitely has a great setup of needle sizes , I guess whether spending more is a better option is really up to your mate? I know that from my experience the brands you have mentioned all have great brushes which will last , that said I personally have never used the ‘master’ brand but I have heard lots of good feedback from the community here, so perhaps someone who has used one and can provide feedback would be helpful 👍🏻👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum Thanks for the reply. It seems like the Master brand is a cut above the really cheap brushes out of China, but still lower quality than the costlier name brands. But, if it can't spray paint evenly and with good fine detail, then it will hold back my friend, since she'll be a complete beginner, and I've read that some of the Chinese brushes just don't have the detail abilities of the name brands, and I don't want that to hold her back as she's learning
Imo it's about the air and the needle. First decide on prefered medium flow rate and pressure required. Choose a compressor to suit. Love my iwata kustoms for candy pearl irridencents it's about the needle and nozzle. Iwata custom microns is about the needle. Been using badger 150 since the late 1980s it's a forgiving workhorse in all aspects of airbrushing. All aspects includes cleaning maintenance and murphys law adjusting/sanding bent needles.
Iwata generally makes good stuff but bear in mind their NEO line is not made by Iwata proper. They are made under license/contract by another manufacturer. They also have what I consider to be an annoying design flaw in that the channel ducting air from the trigger stem region to the head of the brush is susceptible to clogging. It baffled me the first time I grappled with it. Air at the head was restricted so I cleaned the brush and air valves thoroughly as I usually do. Upon reassembly, air was still retarded from reaching the front of the brush, which, with the nozzle assembly removed looked clean.
The blockage was deep within the small, forward facing port which interfaces with the nozzle assembly to transfer air to the head. After digging in it with a small pick and solvent, a chunk of dried paint was dislodged and the airflow was restored.
As many airbrushers do, I sometimes clear my brushes using back pressure by covering the nozzle to create a reverse flow which can clear the brush. It is my conclusion that practicing this with NEOs is not advisable as the port carrying air is located in a spot which invites paint to backflow well up and into it. Just a heads up for people considering these brushes.
I've been airbrushing for forty years now. I now own and use seven airbrushes. One is the entirely unorthodox and irreplaceable Paasche AB. From the looks of mine, was made in the 1950s. The rest of my brushes are all Iwatas, and two of those are NEOs, one syphon and one gravity. Aside from that single issue with the NEOs, they are quite decent and serviceable airbrushes.
I recommend anyone beginning to buy a high quality airbrush from the get go. They are like guitars, you can get a cheap one to learn how to play but the drawbacks of a poor quality instrument will likely set you back progress wise and may even discourage you from pursuing it.
My very first airbrush was a Badger and frankly, I didn't know how good or easy airbrushing was supposed to be until I was asked by a writer friend to airbrush something on short order while visiting him at an ad firm he worked for. I didn't have time to get my airrush, sat down at another artist's desk and used an Iwata for the first time. I went and bought one for myself and never looked back. Honestly, it was at a point in my art endeavors where I was ready to give up airbrushing altogether. Almost forty years on, I now do work which is often mistaken for photographs.
As far as the cutaway handles. They're a gimmick in my opinion. Full enough flow can be achieved with the trigger and seeing the chuck move doesn't mean the Needle is drawing back. Needle stops are fine but even those become unnecessary for anyone who has gained some experience with their craft. There's a lot to be said for muscle memory and simple practice.
Thanks .... the trick for quick clean and rapid canvas cover is going to help so much !!
Thanks for your comment and glad you have found some of these tips helpful to get more out of your cutaway handle 👍🏻👍🏻
You could re tighten your lock nut after your put the trigger back at the closed position then repeat steps to get the needle sticking out the back and grab it
Yep, you can but it would have been better if that needle was a fraction longer then it would make it SO easy to remove it without the need for all these extra steps 😱
@@AirbrushAsylum maybe once twice at the most more and it looks like it would make it , it's still a sick brush I just started to airbrush recently so I'm still learning
well done chamkuli..
Thank you 🙏🏻
Please tutorial how to airbrushing realistic hair.
If you want great tutorials on this then visit School of Realism Dru Blair has classroom in a box kits where he shows you exactly how to render realistic looking hair 👍🏻
I have a Badger Patriot 105
Price
now I understand….. Thank you very much
No probs happy it helped 👍🏻
Why did you loosen the nut? Why not just pull back on it? Which is exactly the same as the cutaway. Fair enough, pulling the needle dumps more paint, in that sense, you're better with the solid handle and undo it when it blocks.
Because as you mentioned it dumps more paint and I wanted to show how the cutaway works , but either way is fine 👍🏻 thanks for your comment much appreciated
The cutout has another use. Some people, if their airbrush is showing signs of clogging, use the cutout to grab the retention nut and pull back on it, withdrawing the needle, and then release it, letting it snap back. This can sometimes resolve a spraying issue. I don't do it, and I'm not saying it's useful. I'm just saying I've been told that this is what some people use it for.
Yes 100% it’s a very common use for the cutaway, I also don’t use it for that but I’m sure many use it for that purpose. Thanks for sharing 🙏🏻👍🏻
And why didnt you just pull the needlechuck on the one without the cutout instead of loosen the needle???????????
Yes you can do that but sometimes I prefer to pull the needle out entirely to do a bigger blast to ensure that I can blast out any dried paint and other contaminants 😉
I like the flashlight part, but starting fires..... it does not. its just a flashlight. lota money.......
My god your right 2 years too late on turning rear, but your not on other show.......by someone who did it already
my god, why don't the instructions say that? Thanks a ton.
Waste of design as you can't pull the needle any further back than the lock nut is tensioned, media hype!!!
7:04 of my time completely wasted.
Sorry to hear that you didn’t find the vid helpful 😞
@@AirbrushAsylum some people are just rude and trolls....i would have ignored his comment.
Grats
Seven minutes completely wasted isn't nearly long enough to enjoy yourself. I chewed Peyote once and it was a two day thing the best I can tell.
@@f62darkstar There seems to be a misunderstanding. Your opinions not required here. Run along now.