Begode Master suspension travel upgrade to 125mm! I LOVE it!
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- Instead of spending €3,500 on a new wheel for the trails I upgraded my Begode Master suspension to give 125mm of smooth, progressive travel. It's was quite a lot of work but it was totally worth it. It has given me way more confidence and has made it less tiring to ride really bumpy, technical trails.
This video details the upgraded design and some of the issues that had to be solved on the way. It's not an instructable, if you decide to do the mods to your own wheel you do so at your own risk. Having said that, it's not particularly difficult if you have a reasonable amount of experience making things out of metal.
Video contents:
0:00 - Intro
4:19 - Linkage design
7:47 - Linkage analysis
10:23 - Custom parts required
12:05 - Assembly to chassis
14:58 - Problems!
15:50 - Solutions!
16:51 - Wrap up
All the 3D designs (STEP and Solidworks 2019) can be downloaded for free here:
grabcad.com/eye.in.the.sky-1/...
I had trouble finding appropriate 30mm steel tube but found this stuff worked even though the tolerances are a bit wide. I cut the 1m length into two and it was just about long enough. RS part number 252-7195:
tinyurl.com/bdbh4w7z
I also found that the length of steel tube I received was slightly over 30mm so I also had to replace the slider bushings with these, IGUS part number GSM-3034-12:
tinyurl.com/yeynsmn6
This is the shock i'm using (Rock Shox Monarch RL 2016, 190x51 version):
www.alltricks.com/F-32732-amo...
Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/mountaineer/hype...
License code: BR3SOJNKARTZTCIK - Věda a technologie
Lots of work - great explaination of what you did!
Awesome, dude. Big thanks for such a huge and important work. Especially for details, this is that we need the most. Seriously, with this single video you bringed a lot more good for EUC users than guys with thousands of subscribers claiming their modded devices cool af but they don't gonna tell HOW to achieve this. You did it. Thanks again.
You are very welcome. I just wanted to let people know it is possible and to help them get more from their EUC. 😊
A BIG respect and a HUGE thanks to You my friend! Especially for enthusiasm and FREE files! Master is on the new level!
You are welcome. Happy modding! 😎
Same rational. I was seriously looking at the Extreme and then the V14 when that was announced. But after much consideration and paying attention to my S22 rides (similar single trail at decent speeds) I realised that a smaller diameter wheel just wasn't worth the sacrifice for more torque. Plus the ground clearance too as even on my S22 some sections I do have to be careful of pedal clipping which would just be worse with a smaller diameter wheel.
Such a good idea. I won't be doing this obviously as I don't have a master. But it's nice to see someone upgrading their wheel similar to what you would see in the MTB hobby rather than just buying something else.
For me... I just want more torque which unfortunately isn't going to happen so I will just stick with my S22 (pro motor).
I think we will start to see more upgrades and diy euc soon. The OneWheel community is starting to adopt the VESC opensource controller to bypass the restrictions on modding the stock OW from Future Motion. Its actually relatively easy to replace the controller on an euc. Many of the VESC controllers come with and IMU and the firmware includes the balancing code. I replaced the controller of my old mSuper V3 and it works better than the stock controller with a higher top speed (vis field weakening) and the ability to customise the responsiveness. If I owned an S22 I would consider replacing the controller with this one alienrides.com/products/3shul-vesc-motor-controller-cl350-v4-preorder. From my understanding the weak point of the S22 is the controller.
I'm impressed by engineering you did before actually making the parts!
I'm gonna do your modifications in the winter.
Great video, I love that you shared your upgrades with other riders, it helps people have the confidence to have a go at doing their own mods, well done and thanks for sharing. The comments are a great read also, I learnt quite a bit from the discussion about wheel diameter. Top job man.
Thank you. I've benefited greatly from so many youtube video on how to solve various problems I thought it was time I gave something back.
Thank you for the video. You really thought end to end for the travel & hanger gouging into the tire. Love the attention to detail.
Fantastic work!
Need more of this
Excellent 👍
Отличное видео, мужик ты супер ❤
Thanks dude.
This is fantastic work. One thing that pisses me off about Begode's Master and T4: on one side the stanchion is held on with 4 bolts, and on the other side it is held on with 2 bolts. They wanted the main power cable to go in that particular spot, so they removed 2 bolts! This is a level of idiocy that is hard to forgive. The V14 is clearly a copy of Begode's design, but done better.
Yeah, that is typical Begode. It's like every wheel they make is a first off prototype. But that is to be expected in this market. EUC is still very niche and a very competitive market that relies on small numbers of sales to enthusiasts who just want the next best thing rather than the most reliable thing. This is not even unique to the EUC industry. If we wanted reliable cars we would all be driving Kia's with a 7 year warranty. Having said that, I love Begode wheels and have made peace that they aren't ever going to be perfect out of the box. It gives me the perfect excuse to upgrade the sh*t out of them. I've just finished an upgrade to this Master to give it 150mm of suspension travel. Will upload a video of that soon.
New sub love it ❤
That's awesome! THANK YOU VERY MUCH for sharing that info with us! Did you use a regular steel pipes or stainless ones? I found online a stainless pipes in such diameters 30MM OD X 26MM ID (2MM WALL) and wondering if these can be used.
I used stainless ones. 30mm OD 26mm ID is perfect. The only problem might be that the OD is actually slightly over 30mm. (mine were ~30.15mm) so I had to replace the original copper sliding bushings with polymer ones. Good luck with your modifications. 🙂
Wow, what a great vid. firstly I think Begode should higher you as a design consultant. Such a detailed description and you are a talented engineer. How do you only have 69 Subscribers. 70 now. Where is the trail? looks awesome
Thank you for your kind comment. The trail is in Ballinastoe, Co. Wicklow Ireland. I would love to design the ultimate electric unicycle so, Begode, if you're listening, sign me up. 😀
Thankyou for the link,
Took awhile for the good bit to get started at 4:20 where the good stuff starts. We had the same journey with different method And i went one step further with new pedal hangers. Another option is the T4 hangers they are premade 20mm shorter at the bottom all ready.
I opted for +30mm on the factory tubes custom made by houning. Making 70+30=100mm travel and a longer coil shock.
I focused on ratio 100/55 = 1.81 ratio.
Even tried 100/65 = 1.53
And thet adjusting coil LBS for desired outcomes.
Notice you are on 125/55 quite a high soft ratio of 2.27 very close to factory setup just way more travel motion range. Hence the high 400psi Required.
I have a linkage generator in onshape that im sure will impress you.
Yeah I would have preferred to use a smaller ratio but I already had the 190x51 shock so I designed it around that. Going to drop in a 750lb spring shock to see if that makes any difference as I'm sick of pumping the shock until veins are sticking out. Just had a look at the linkage generator. Really handy tool. One thing that would be really interesting would be if you could automatically plot the ratio throughout the travel so you could get an idea of how progressive the geometry is. The fundamental problem with the Begode linkage is that it is regressive so the shock/suspension travel ratio reduces as the suspension compresses. What we need for jumping/off road is exactly the opposite. The style of linkage that we are using is progressive, but not as progressive as the S22 linkage (which is why it seems to be preferred by most hardcore EUC jumpers). What are you making your linkages out of? I found aluminium was a bit weak around the pivots and had to strengthen them quite a bit as the first set I made deformed after a couple of hard landings.
@@eyeinthesky3013 yeah I can plot the full ratio... And have done it. You have a chat app if you up to share some finer details.
As for 750lbs I think you will need 1000lbs. Ratio over 1.8 you need 900lbs +
I'm running 1.7 ratio and 650lbs is a bit too plush for me at 75kg
BTW, that drone footage at the end. Was that manually flown by someone?
I use a Skydio2 for this kind of stuff, it has full 360 obstacle avoidance and can follow you autonomously. You keep a small beacon in your pocket that transmits your gps coordinates to the drone to allow it to follow you even if it can't see you. It came out a few years ago but sadly is now discontinued. It's significantly better than any DJI drone for obstacle avoidance and it's ability to follow through tight spaces.
@@eyeinthesky3013 Thank you. It should have occurred to me that only the Skydio can make such rapid movements while tracking 😊
Great video👍 listen you look like you’re qualified enough to answer this question…why do some EUCs cut out once they beep at max speed? I’ve just watched two vids back to back at this happening and was wandering what causes it?
The high speed "cut out" is common to all EUC and is due to a fundamental limitation of electric motors. It's not really a cut out as such but is due to the motor reaching its maximum "free spin" speed and no longer being able to keep the rider balanced. Basically, as the motor spins faster it produces a reverse voltage that counteracts the battery voltage. When the motor speed approaches the "free spin" speed the reverse voltage is equal to the battery voltage there is no longer any spare voltage available to push current through the motor coils, no coil current means no torque from the motor. Unfortunately the EUC relies on having some spare torque available to keep balanced, so balance is lost and the euc rider has a bad day. It's a really horrible feeling when the pedals go soft and you start falling forwards, when it happened to me at 60km/h I was lucky to only break my wrist as I wasn't wearing any safety gear. The beeping from the EUC is it's way of warning you that it's about to happen, ignore the beeps at your peril!!
@@eyeinthesky3013 Great response very informative. Thanks
I use to think like you in that a 14" rim (18-20" tire) is the way to go for trails but after riding a T4 since Apr, I'm totally convinced the 12" or 16/17" platform is the way for technical mtb trails. No doubt the bigger wheel is better for speed but offroad isnt about speed but moreso nimbleness, control & tossability. Nevertheless, the Master is a good allround wheel & the x linkage you designed is way to go. Thanks
I agree that trail riding is not about speed but I think the maneuverability of the T4 is more about the reduced rotational inertia of the C30 motor rather than the slightly smaller diameter wheel (though this will help). The C30 motor in the T4 will have a significantly lower rotational inertia/gyroscopic force/torque and so be much easier to whip around than the C38 in the master. The compromise made with the T4 is to achieve acceptable 'tractive force' from a lower torque motor at the cost of (unneeded) top end speed by reducing the effective lever arm length (wheel radius). I think the ultimate trail EUC would have a significantly larger, but much lighter, diameter rim to achieve a low rotational inertia. There is a reason MTB wheels are 27 or 29 inch and not 18 inch, and MTB are much more maneuverable at speed >20km/h than any EUC. I have an S18 (exact same rim diameter and CST-186 tire as on the Master) and it is incredibly nimble (likely due to
@@eyeinthesky3013 I dunno if your arguments proposed hold water so I'm not gonna debate it. All's I can do is provide my own experiences having owned a s18, RSht, EXN (hs & ht) & now a T4 & ex30. I used to think the RSht was the perfect pkg for trails cept for low peds & lack of suspension. IME the T4 isnt much lacking in torque vs RSht but despite being ~10lbs heavier, feels much lighter & def more nimble & hence more controllable. Perhaps its my ave 170ish lbs weight but for me, torque isnt the T4's weakness but instead its ave suspension. Still I lov riding it on dirt esp gnarly technical mtb single tracks. Much better then the RSht. Dont forget, a smaller wheel has a very significant mechanical advantage as well. IMO my s18's suspension was trash & the torque (or lack thereof) was pitiful. T4 is multi levels better & amazingly, does not feel heavier despite being 20lbs in actuallity. IMO IME ofcos
@@eyeinthesky3013 Good points. Becomes a balance I guess, Extreme C40 has more torque than C30, but you have to decide whether thats worth the extra gyroscopic force and weight in general.
The extreme has a lot more torque/top end than a T4 but will that actually translate into faster times through a singletrack course, given the fact that its heavier and has more gryoscopic force like you point out? Thats probably completely dependant on the track (and rider). Especially if you ignore the fact that extreme has more up to date suspension etc.
@@yarnfBtwn the T4 & Extreme, suspension aside, I say it would depend on the type of track. On super tight very technical multi terrain with altitude changes, I say the T4 will be competitive esp for lighter riders.
My T4 does 90% of the dirt rides I do well but I must admit that final 10% is calling out to me which is why I'm seriously pondering on a winter order of the Extreme in time for spring '24. The better build, the better suspension, the extra power/torque, the extra batt/range & the higher topend are very enticing. But the extra 20lbs is def giving pause.
Regardless, I lov riding my T4 as a monowheel mtb. Dont need more speed but a bit more torque is always nice & the all metal + cnc stuff is great tho I havent damaged my plastic T4 as yet despite innumerable offroad dumps
@@scottsum1319 Ya agree with all that. And even as an extreme owner: if they made a new version of the T4 with the new Extreme build quality/upgraded suspension/CNC etc I'd be all over it.
would you ever ride it in the rain??
13:43 is this an EUC tire in the background? I'm looking for a good mud tire, can you tell me about it? does it fit the master?
It's a Kenda Carlesbad tire. I bought it for my S18 originally so it would fit the master but it's awful on tarmac at low speed. It has far too much space between the knobs which are too flexible so steering at low speed is horrible. I tried it on the street outside my house and hated it so much that I immediately removed it. It might be OK off road but I tried the cst 186 after that and it was waaaay better so stuck with that.
@@eyeinthesky3013 I had something similar on my 16x few years back, 12-inch rim, you can get used to it actually though my initial impressions were the same. It's magical in deep mud and this is why I'm looking for a similar tire for begode master.
Where is this trail looks fantastic
It's in Co. Wicklow in Ireland. Ballinastoe MTB trails. I'm so lucky to have them close to where I live.
Do you sell the linkage system you made?
I'm not sure I could do it cheaply enough for people to be interested. Plus it's not really a plug and play mod as there are mods to do to the Master chassis for it to fit. It requires a basic hobbyist level of experience with metal working and mechanical design to get it installed and working nicely. I'd be worried that people might render their wheel unusable if someone attempted it without the required level of experience.
Better review if you had a camel toe