Trying to FIX: Philips Sonicare Kids Toothbrush HX6320
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- čas přidán 5. 12. 2019
- Hi, this video shows me attempting to fix a Philips Sonicare toothbrush which does not charge or turn off.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince. - Jak na to + styl
Vince
Been watching since Mr Telephone man days.
I used to throw away or replace faulty items,but since watching your content i now attempt to fix things,our oven was tripping the circuit breaker recently,after a bit of research i pinpointed the fault down to the heating element,i confirmed this with a multimetre,ordered a new element and oven now fine, this is mainly down to your series of videos,so thanks and keep up the good work
For future reference, the solder blob across the 2 pads was labeled JP1, meaning jumper #1. That particular solder bridge is there to complete the circuit. When you remove the bridge it effectively disconnects the battery from the circuit so you can test or clean it safely.
I would have removed the loose positive contact, which will probably cause problems later on because of vibration and or corrosion and soldered a piece of copper wire directly to the battery and fed it through the hole in the PCB. It can be safely done, just clean the battery contact well and roughen the surface a bit, use flux and do not hold the soldering iron too long on the battery. Just hold it long enough to melt the solder and wet the surface and remove the heat.
Oh, and you nearly cooked that microprocessor trying to chase those solder bridges down! I was cringing throughout. Components do fail from too much heat occasionally. Next time just wipe the tip of the soldering iron on a damp sponge, as it had some solder on it from the previous side. When you get solder bridges on fine pitched components, wipe the tip, reapply flux and drag the tip along the component legs not across them.
I was an electronics tech who specialized in reworking defective and damaged circuit boards.
Good job on your fix, I really enjoy your videos!
exacly
Thanks for the tips :-)
@@Mymatevince Hi VINCE, i had few (i think 5 or 6) of these, first models was without that plastic cover on the shaft. Main problem was that goo was growing on that gum seal on the shaft, and hardened goo was main reason why gum seal cracked. After few year of production Philips put that plastic cover on top, but it didn't solved a main problem. If you take out metal shaft (it's slightly pressed in) you will be able to remove plastic cover and you will that where it leaks ;) To prolong life time of these, you must to clean water with towel every time after you use it.
I see your point! Sometimes cringing is part of the fun of watching Vince do his thing. We have all been there! :o) xx
Came here originally for video game repairs but have found real enjoyment out of vinces fixes that i happily just watch him fix a toothbrush :)
Hi Vince, nice save and thanks for mentioning my channel, again :)) you have figured all quite nicely except one thing you should open the upper seal.. it will be torn or have a micro tear and that's how the water gets in. The plastic part is separate from rubber it just clips on. Both of these parts sell in ebay as kit so there's your reason to open it up again ;)
Thanks mate, if it leaks again I will buy those 2 parts, the rubber has quite a bit of mould on so it would be nice to replace it :-) Hope you reach the 1K subscribers soon :-)
My mate Vince really out here changing the repair game
25 Years as an electrical engineer city and guild qualified. I love your videos and have learnt a lot. Thank you. You are a star
Thank you! You saved my son's Sonicare which had a loose head after falling down on the floor.. :-)
Hello Vince, very nice fix again. I made nearly the same fix with my wife's Sonycare. Please check again the seal or gasket I'm not sure what is the right word in English. Its a common failure that the gasket gets damaged and water gets into the top of the toothbrush. You can remove the plastic sleeve on top of the toothbrush quite easily to check it. If it is broken you can buy a new gasket very cheap on the Internet.
Greetings from Germany.
Vince cant lose.
The 2 pads are labeled: JP1 which is Jumper #1. Jumpers can be a surface mount resistor with a value of 0 - labeled with just 0, a wire, or a bridged solder blob.
Thanks, I have never seen (or taken notice) of that blob before. I have seen the 0 Ohm resistor and the wire but not the blob :-) I will look out for JP on the boards in the future and then I will know what it is :-)
Nice fix Vince,
I have similiar toothbrush (HX6920) which after two years got broken. I have reported this to Philips that around this "neck" black mould builts up and I think that is where the water gets in. The same fungus built up on silicon seal in bathrooms but Philips has replay to me that this just dirt and I should cleaned first, which I did before but is not coming off:(. I think they know that this is a week point of the product but they don't care.
Great fix Vince
Great fix.
I would be inclined to check on it in a few weeks to make sure the seals are holding up good :D
Anyone else felt relieved when the light started blinking hoping it was fixed lol
Amazing to see so many test pads on a circuit board! Almost more pads than components! :o) xx
Great and interesting video Vince.
*sees swan-neck pliers
"This is gonna be a good one..."
Got one of the newer ones for Christmas some years ago, and the manual actually shows how to open the brush up to take out the battery.
Also, don’t leave the solder sucker “primed” when not in use. It’ll weaken the spring.
Great job vince
It’s like popping a champagne bottle:) :) :) another amazing video. Thanks Vince for such a good content!!!
If it helps, get yourself a set of stainless steel desoldering needles, they are hollow so you just put one over the pin of a troublesome component and heat up the joint while sliding it onto the pin. and you're done! They come in different sizes, and are quite cheap.
I've been watching Tony Gambacorta's hardware hacking videos, and at 16:59 in this video, it looks like this thing might have some UART (serial) ports (have a look at the pads names on the right) Also, look at 26:16, the main chip is a PIC, a Microchip PIC16F726, and it's datasheet confirms that is has the serial. Now, it would be interesting to see what would happen if you hooked up a terminal to this thing. Also, I suspect that there are other Philips models that share this same this same hardware, but have different firmware, so it might be possible to re-program a cheaper model to have the same capabilities as a more expensive model. I also noticed that some Sonicare models have low, medium, high. This one probably could be hacked to support higher strengths.
YaY another video !!! Thanks !!! Love you !
Great video as always 👍🏻❤️
When you opened that brush up, first thing I thought was that it looked like a Star Wars Light Saber.
+1 :D
Nice one Vince Bro Thumbs up along the way :)
Maybe a little bit of silicone grease would help the upper seal to make sure it doesn’t let in water?
i agree sir!
Yes, you can solder contacts on battery, you just need around 100W iron to be able to quick heat without making hot the whole element. You did a good job except contact, it will make problems because of vibrations.
if you try and solder to a Li type battery make sure to wear a full coverage face shield in case the battery decides to explode in your face you will be very thankful you did ..
@@allrock1238 It wont explode just like that, you need serious heat or put it in fire. Soldering on contacts won't heat the element that much. I've soldered dozens of them and not a single one going wrong. Shorting the contacts or overcharging are the main reasons Li batteries to go in flames. Test that yourself and stop believe in fake myths. Most of the time people prefer to be scared of unknown rather than learn what it is and how to deal with it.
Here's how I think these work. The chip creates a signal and it is amplified and sent to that red coil which is like a loudspeaker.
I'd like to try to play music on one of these. Tap the input to the amp and hook a loudspeaker to where the coil is.
_-Part 1 of-_ Explanation (here we go again):
The coil is indeed for charging. That’s how a transformer works: a current in one coil incites a current in the other. And they don’t have to be a part of a transformer either; two separate coils place on top of one another also works, and is the wonder behind what’s called “wireless charging”.
It is, however, dependant on polarity if it’s DC current (unless the chargee coil (as opposed to the *charger* coil) uses a center-tap with the ends connected to one polarity and the center-tap to the other, in which case it doesn’t matter which way the coil is oriented, as the current will go from one of the ends to the center-tap regardless of polarity).
Good work! If the battery contact fails again, just watch some videos and solder a wire on. With a decent iron and done quickly it hardly gets the cell warm at all. RCModelReviews channel gives one such tutorial on this.
hi, perhaps a good soap and water cleaning / scrubbing should have been done on the casing while you had the circuit board out, a lot of dirt and grime build up at the top portion of the housing. A few drops of bleach with water may also prove useful in germ control. Also the battery terminal should have been spot welded, or in the absence of a spot welder your regular soldering iron could have done the job, just need to pre- tin your battery and avoid heat contact for more than 5 secs...
Excellent!
Intresting video vince sounds like they are only using ip53 - 54 which is splash proof only strange. but suppose cost is why my basic 600 Pro oral b is about £30 now but was pretty pricey initially and I have submerged that many times completely to clean it.
Nice clean repair =D
Really enjoy the fix videos
its basicly the same as the phoen wireless chargers. the coils in the charger and toothbrush act like a transformerwhen brought in proximity. Its clever even to those who understand it.
ATTENTION ; there is a counter to use. After some 1-3 years there is a usage lock. It was found on the forum.
I didnt look at the title and the pic very well. I thought it said...trying to fix a Sonic Screwdriver. Oh well. Didnt you fix other Dr Who items
Looks like there was a little corrosion at the tiny 6 pin IC on the bottom part of the board near the battery connector, there is a marking CR6 right next to it. I'm guessing it's part of the battery charging/protection circuit... Can't be sure by looking at the video, but it appears like there is some kind of white residue under the pins when you turn the board at certain angles...
I had the exact same fault on my Oral-B one, and it was filled with toothpaste water!
Personally I think the chip just needed a quick clean, and then some moisture proofing lacquer thus eliminating any water damage, APU I dropped a like..
coating it in dielectric grease works great for my garden solar lights too
Thanks Koala, I wasn't sure if the board had any components on the other side, and originally I thought I might use hot air on the chip with corrosion, so I wanted to keep the heat away from the battery. If I need to get into it again I will just clean it and run the iron along the chip and hopefully it will be a quick fix :-)
well done mate
Thank you :-)
I always use a thin coat of WD40 on water adjacent electronics. WD stands for water displacement and it's non conductive.
@Ellis The DJ it was the companies 40th attempt at making the product before they got it right
I have a waterproof version but plain white and it has gum care and clean
Thank you! Using this video as a guide, I successfully replaced my old sonic care's battery. The og battery was so toast I couldn't even use the modes.
Side note - did you find any issue with the indicator lights after replacing the battery? I noticed I can't get the full charge display, and the lights will shut off when it's in use. Either way it works, so I'm pretty stoked.
Hi Vince .. I would have soldered the tab onto the battery or re spot welded the tab.... new battery with tabs if the 1st 2 options are not viable. .. baz
Can yo do more of console fixes? :)
Greets
The coil in the base is the primary winding of a transformer. the coil in the toothbrush is the secondary winding of the transformer. The transformer will either be a stepdown transformer(example 240V in 12V out) or more than likely an isolation transformer(example 5V in 5V out). You're right to say it is inductance. The word Inductance comes from induce meaning to persuade or lead someone to do something. The varying magnetic field on the primary causes electrons to move on the secondary. in other words the magnetic field of the primary coil induces an electric current on the secondary coil so no connection is needed between them.
Perfect concise explanation. That makes it a lot easier to understand. Thank you :-)
hi vince. big fan here watching. I have some Nintendo wii remotes. wich are dead. but happy to send to you for a video if you want?
What heat gun do you use and where in the uk can I buy one....thanks
Vince. Have you got or have you considered the helping hands thing to hold boards while you solder them . Noticed this rolling around on you and though could do with a little clap or something and remembered the helping hands.
I like using blobs of Blu Tak for that. Learned that by watching another CZcamsr.
@@TechGorilla1987 hadn't thought about blue tak. Great idea too .
Thanks Tech Gorilla:-) Dave, I do have helping hands but they are so big and unwieldly that I rarely use them (they are like a big blue octopus type thing). If I was really going to struggle then I would have got them out but I must remember to use blu tac as I have done that in the past as that is super easy :-)
So glad you said it looked like a sonic instantly thought it
When saw it I’m thumbnail
Hi Vince, which sucktion pump are you using? It works impressively well.
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002MJMXD4
@@ZaPpaul Thanks a lot mate!
Soon I'm trying to fix my sons teeth
Make sure to use lead free solder if you are applying braces.
Yes its a sonic screwdriver i would put a light on it you should do sonic screwdriver fix videos
Can't you not use some braid in between the battery and the broken contact and see if that helps, could you not use silicone glue you would use to seal around showers to seal the seam around the bottom of the toothbrush just to be sure that water doesn't get in where it shouldn't be.
Convert it into a handy jigglegun lockpick, these toothbrushes are awesome for making one of them ;)
I think thise switches are called tack switches for tge power button
That looks like an 18650 cell (14:01). If you ever need info about suitable replacements or just curious, this is what I use to look cells up: diypowerwalls.com/celldatabase
Add some lithium grease to your tool bag...
Where would i find 99% alcohol for cleaning electronics? I guess rubbing alcohol would not work as well as the stuff you have, right? Don't sell 99% alcohol in the grocery stores...LOL
I got my one from Amazon or eBay (can't remember which one). Very cheap and lasts a long time :-)
As nice as those electro toothbrushes are, as much I hate the concept of soldered batteries in it.
Why can't they just add removal batteries!? You need to throw away the whole thing every time (unless you know how to open/solder) :(
Yeah I know, there are some out there with removal batteries, but they aren't very good at all :(
Because the toothbrush will brake on some other component or, as usualy is the case, because of the misuse of the user prior then you would need to replace the battery :)
@@letsfixitgarage Just build "better" toothbrushes.. we will soon be on Mars, can't be rocket science to produce something which will last a few years ;)
if it is a 18650 Battery you can change it with a one who has better capacity
It's different, smaller type and original capacity is more than enough ;)
Would not trust that battery (li ion) cell
The small pads covered with a blob of solder are a jumper (for configuration)
Thanks Florian. I will recognise the JP markings on the board in future :-)
Flux is expired sir, please discard and get a new one promptly. nah im kidding I dont know what im talking about
Pog
😮
Those batteries are 18650 3.7v they are found inside laptop batteries.
18650 is much bigger than this. This is a 14500. You can get them with solder pins from companies specialized in toothbrush batteries replacement if you don't want to gamble on ebay.
Be careful when working with batteries like that. The entire body of the battery, until the very top, is the negative terminal. Bending the metal for the positive terminal like that (or trying to stuff some metal padding in between) could cause a short if the metal happens to scrape trough the battery's wrapping. Shorting unprotected Li-ion cells like that can get rather violent.
Wait is that a wireless charging toothbrush 😂😂?
They have been pretty common for last few years or if not even longer.
Use a small bit of bleach on the mold with a q-tip
Look up (Google) mutual inductance.
Hey can you fix my xbox?
DO NOT follow this video to gain access to the internals, use this one czcams.com/video/zddyXH-ns4g/video.html
Vince, you`re flux is past the expiration date.
Ok this comment has me wondering what happens when it expires what stops it from being good?
I want to know too
Hi there.
flux expired ...
seriously; get some blutack and use that to stabilise the stuff youre trying to solder....no need for fancy gadgets to hold it...just get some blutack and use it to stick the item down!
Oral B make better toothbrushes compared to Phillips
@22:06 Flux expires?
Looks like the sonic screwdriver from Doctor Who
bla bla bla .. to much words