Just whacked my Versys 650 front rim back into shape with 2 rocks at a gas station this last weekend, it's doable in desperation! That Fix-a-flat tire foam goop also works great in a pinch.
Good to hear you were able to fix the rim and get a good seal. However, it might be worth considering upgrading your front rim to a stronger better quality rim, such as Excel, especially as you do a lot of off-road riding. 👍
Thanks Paul, I thought about it but the cost is just too high right now. I wanted to see if I need better rim first, and so far I'm not sure I need to upgrade (similar story with the suspension). I think it would be great to get the better rim especially as I can get 21" tubeless ready rim which would probably make a big difference with slow leakage when tire is old. I was really, really surprised how tough the rim was. Internet says they're made of cheese these new DID rims... well it's damn hard cheese! The rim survived Morocco where I trained for the Dinaric rally (lots of stones and jumping) and the Dinaric itself with these small dents (and the biggest one is a pothole!). So yes, probably it would be better to have stronger rims, but for now money goes elsewhere.
@@windinthewillows6248 Possibly, when I took it to the tire shop they had some special liquid rubber which they applied onto the bead and it sealed it a bit, I think that could be solution as I can imagine it is used on the cars very often and hence available in any tire shop.
"....I am a programmer..." what an excuse😂🤣.... does that mean your force is either "1" or "0".. 🤔🤔😁 great solid, aquired by doing (!), knowledge given! I still believe that there is a point in releasing pressure that contributes more to deformation than grip....cheers
Well... I have to make some excuses as apparently it's 10 minute job and not 3 hours. The slow leaks along the rim... I'm with you on that one I think now that it's the change in pressure, car tires keep on constant pressure while I'm lowering down to 18psi off-road and 32psi road... also dirt and so on...
Did you continue to use the OEM tires after the tubeless rim conversion? I know there is a difference between the tubeless tire and tube tire, so I don't know if I need to get another pair of tires specified for the tubeless rims to make this work.
Hi the OEM tires are TL tires which means they're tubeless tires which are compatible with tubes so they use them. If you look at the tire it will be either TT (tube type) or TL (tubeless). You can use most of the TL tires safely with tubes or without them. Using TT tire tubeless is asking for trouble.
Is this an OEM Yamaha rim? I am asking because Yamaha says it is a different type of rim than on their hard enduros and it is not suited for tubeless conversion....
Hi Steve, yes this is OEM Yamaha rim. The rear rim is tubeless ready rim while the front one is officially only tubed rim because it does not have the safety lip, I have more information about this in my OutEx video - czcams.com/video/usWNktosQPc/video.html I've been running this setup on both Honda CB500X as well as T7 without any problems but of course as I also say in the linked video it's up to eveyrone as it may have legal impact and carries some risk.
After going through the process... the lead hammer would be an amazing tool for this job! I would be surprise to find one in a DIY shop nowadays, probably hard to find in antique shops as I imagine people sold them for metal.
@@FARANDFURTHER you make them... I have one also a rawhide & alunimium combo hammer... you need to heat the ali rim to about 200c with a heatgun about double the zone of the repair... the rims are heat treated tempered so are quite springy... make a HUGE difference to hammer back... comparable to warming a stiff tire for fitting... chalk & cheese... also using wood blocks on its end grain is a big help transfering impacts rather than side grain... Just stumbled on your channel excellent viewing thanks for your efforts... cheers from NZ
Hi Andy, no I don't regret at all. I've ridden more than 100 000km with OutEx by now and I'm happy. Sure, it has it's pros and cons and the damage to the rim or cut in a tire will for sure be problematic more than with the tube but the fact I don't need to faff with the tubes outweighs that. Also this is the 1st time I had to fix the rims this way in all that time. I'm now riding more aggressively and rode a rally on the OutEx... it would be surprising if I'd not dent a rim a bit. Considering all that, it works for me very very well.
@@lefterisbampaidis5446 Depends what you're asking about... Would I dent the rim on the rally or with the pothole? Yes, that does not have anything to do with tube/tubeless. As a matter of fact, people tend to run tubes at much lower pressures than tubeless - especially offroad - so the damage can be more extensive. I have to keep my front to 18psi minimum. Doing harder enduro where you have bigger rocks and need to lift the front wheel in order to get through successfully or any rally environment the rims will be in danger. Would I have leaks with dented rim and tubes? No, most likely not as tube would hold the air. However, and that's big IF, the pinch flats are the big problem with tubes. As the tire hits pothole it deforms to the point where it can't absorb more energy, hits the rim and if one has a tube, it hits the tube and pinches it. So instead of having slightly dented rim with slow leak I'd endup with proper flat.
Just whacked my Versys 650 front rim back into shape with 2 rocks at a gas station this last weekend, it's doable in desperation!
That Fix-a-flat tire foam goop also works great in a pinch.
Hehe, that must have been a desperation :) Well donel. You use tubes right?
@@FARANDFURTHER Nah I run tubeless.
Thank you for the lesson it was really interessting
Hello Ashraf! Glad you liked it! Did you compete in the Beach rally?
@@FARANDFURTHER nop i can't with my trail bike, i should to buy an enduro bike than i can.
I've found the best way to create a seal is putting a tube in it.
Hehe... Well, you're right! My case now but I hope to give a some other techniques like Bartubless a try in the future.
Good to hear you were able to fix the rim and get a good seal. However, it might be worth considering upgrading your front rim to a stronger better quality rim, such as Excel, especially as you do a lot of off-road riding. 👍
Thanks Paul, I thought about it but the cost is just too high right now. I wanted to see if I need better rim first, and so far I'm not sure I need to upgrade (similar story with the suspension).
I think it would be great to get the better rim especially as I can get 21" tubeless ready rim which would probably make a big difference with slow leakage when tire is old.
I was really, really surprised how tough the rim was. Internet says they're made of cheese these new DID rims... well it's damn hard cheese! The rim survived Morocco where I trained for the Dinaric rally (lots of stones and jumping) and the Dinaric itself with these small dents (and the biggest one is a pothole!).
So yes, probably it would be better to have stronger rims, but for now money goes elsewhere.
@@FARANDFURTHER I wonder if maybe you could use some slim, not for rim dents, as that probably wouldn’t help, but more for the tyre bead leaks?
@@windinthewillows6248 Possibly, when I took it to the tire shop they had some special liquid rubber which they applied onto the bead and it sealed it a bit, I think that could be solution as I can imagine it is used on the cars very often and hence available in any tire shop.
Are Excel rims ‘bashable’ too or are they brittle or alloy?
I really don't know, the problem I can see I'd not like to bash so expensive rims :)
If you had an assistant to help you, you would work as deftly and harmoniously as Pat and Mat 🛠️
Hehe! :) Yep I think that is 100% accurate analogy for my mechanical endeavours.
"....I am a programmer..." what an excuse😂🤣.... does that mean your force is either "1" or "0".. 🤔🤔😁 great solid, aquired by doing (!), knowledge given! I still believe that there is a point in releasing pressure that contributes more to deformation than grip....cheers
Well... I have to make some excuses as apparently it's 10 minute job and not 3 hours. The slow leaks along the rim... I'm with you on that one I think now that it's the change in pressure, car tires keep on constant pressure while I'm lowering down to 18psi off-road and 32psi road... also dirt and so on...
Did you continue to use the OEM tires after the tubeless rim conversion? I know there is a difference between the tubeless tire and tube tire, so I don't know if I need to get another pair of tires specified for the tubeless rims to make this work.
Hi the OEM tires are TL tires which means they're tubeless tires which are compatible with tubes so they use them. If you look at the tire it will be either TT (tube type) or TL (tubeless). You can use most of the TL tires safely with tubes or without them. Using TT tire tubeless is asking for trouble.
How about injecting through valve hole puncture preventing liquid inside of tire? Seals bed leaks super fine on tubeless tires..
That could also work, if you mean something like Slime and similar products, but I have not tried so I don't know.
Is this an OEM Yamaha rim? I am asking because Yamaha says it is a different type of rim than on their hard enduros and it is not suited for tubeless conversion....
Hi Steve, yes this is OEM Yamaha rim. The rear rim is tubeless ready rim while the front one is officially only tubed rim because it does not have the safety lip, I have more information about this in my OutEx video - czcams.com/video/usWNktosQPc/video.html
I've been running this setup on both Honda CB500X as well as T7 without any problems but of course as I also say in the linked video it's up to eveyrone as it may have legal impact and carries some risk.
Back in the DAY we used lead hammers to fix our wheels both on cars with aluminum rims and motorcycles. Probably can't even buy lead hammers today.
After going through the process... the lead hammer would be an amazing tool for this job! I would be surprise to find one in a DIY shop nowadays, probably hard to find in antique shops as I imagine people sold them for metal.
@@FARANDFURTHER you make them... I have one also a rawhide & alunimium combo hammer... you need to heat the ali rim to about 200c with a heatgun about double the zone of the repair... the rims are heat treated tempered so are quite springy... make a HUGE difference to hammer back... comparable to warming a stiff tire for fitting... chalk & cheese... also using wood blocks on its end grain is a big help transfering impacts rather than side grain... Just stumbled on your channel excellent viewing thanks for your efforts... cheers from NZ
So You dont regret doing conversion to tubeless?? I have ordered Outex and I'm confused if i did right.
Hi Andy, no I don't regret at all. I've ridden more than 100 000km with OutEx by now and I'm happy. Sure, it has it's pros and cons and the damage to the rim or cut in a tire will for sure be problematic more than with the tube but the fact I don't need to faff with the tubes outweighs that.
Also this is the 1st time I had to fix the rims this way in all that time. I'm now riding more aggressively and rode a rally on the OutEx... it would be surprising if I'd not dent a rim a bit.
Considering all that, it works for me very very well.
@@FARANDFURTHER would this have happened if you were using tubes?
I'm a big fan of tubeless, but risking damaging the rim, no thanks
@@lefterisbampaidis5446 Depends what you're asking about...
Would I dent the rim on the rally or with the pothole?
Yes, that does not have anything to do with tube/tubeless. As a matter of fact, people tend to run tubes at much lower pressures than tubeless - especially offroad - so the damage can be more extensive. I have to keep my front to 18psi minimum. Doing harder enduro where you have bigger rocks and need to lift the front wheel in order to get through successfully or any rally environment the rims will be in danger.
Would I have leaks with dented rim and tubes?
No, most likely not as tube would hold the air. However, and that's big IF, the pinch flats are the big problem with tubes. As the tire hits pothole it deforms to the point where it can't absorb more energy, hits the rim and if one has a tube, it hits the tube and pinches it. So instead of having slightly dented rim with slow leak I'd endup with proper flat.