1997 - 2001 Ford Explorer 4.0L SOHC V6 - Thermostat Replacement
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- 1997 - 2001 Ford Explorer 4.0L SOHC V6 thermostat replacement. Not to be confused with the 4.0L OHV V6.
*Be very careful that you do not knick the lip on the inside of the upper thermostat housing. This will cause leakage around the O-ring gasket. It can easily be damaged during removal. This part cost around $20 to replace.
*If you experience a leak in the lower thermostat housing - consider replacing both upper and lower thermostat housings. The lower thermostat housing can leak around the sensor threading surfaces as well as around the seams - this is a common product defect. This part cost between $30 to $40 but takes a considerable amount of time to replace. It is advised to replace the temperature sensor ($10) and temperature sender ($20) during replacement of the lower thermostat housing.
I see this has already been said before, but by far my favorite car repair video. The instructions were clear, the camera angles and lighting were great, and you fast forwarded through the wrenching so I didn't have to. Adding music can be so hit or miss, so I'm glad you decided against it. Thank you for taking the time to make such a great video!
I second Jose below!! The best video. AND no LOUSY LOUD obnoxious music !!!!! THANKS!!!!!
By far the best video on this I've seen so far.
The best, most complete video on this process.
Incredible video! Thank you so very much for taking the time to make this video and explain as you go. I just used this video to help me with my vehicle. I own a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer edition
This was super helpful. I just did this on a 2000 mercury mountaineer, everything was in the same spots as what you show here. Thanks.
Some guys have figured it out...Speed up footage and don't say anything...Great upload! I think the ABS light on comes standard on 99 exploders...
Thanks for the video, took out any guess work 👍🏻
Great video, extremely helpful. Thanks so much for posting!
Fantastic video! I believe this is something I can do myself after watching this vid. I'll call my local trusted mechanic to get a ball park figure on what his cost would be to replace the thermostat...and then decide whether to do it myself or not. At least I have a choice now. Thanks a lot man!
I'm not highly mechanically knowledgeable but I bought the thermostat and just took it all apart as he did. Where I live the closest town is 45 miles one way. Then cost of everything it was just better for me to do it.
@@galloway1992 I was on the fence. In the end I decided to take it my mechanic. He did not have to replace the housing around the thermostat that sometimes needs to be replaced due to leaks. So it only cost me $150. I could have done it myself but $150 parts and labor was cheap and I know it was done right. Good for you for doing it yourself! Cool.
Muy bien explicado, excelente video, me sirvio para trabajar en mi camioneta.
Thank you. Great video. Very clear steps.
Hey Brian. Ford Aftermarket now supplies the METAL type thermostat bodies. Check into it!
I just wanna say thank you for your video you saved me 400$ you earn yourself a subscriber
Y para quitar la toma de la misma camioneta como le ago
exactly what I needed !!!
Thank you so for making this video. And making it well.
thank you
Very greal excelent very helpfull
Good job , clear video ,u show the real deal...and simple perfect instructions/info/ help.really appreciate/helped big-time/...one of the best forshure
Great video, I hope that's the only problem on my '00 model, it overheated, and the oil pressure gauge started going nuts, then the check engine light turned on :(
Thanks for the vídeo, it helped me a lot. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Now that's what I'm talkin about we're years later and it actually looks good I have a 97 Ford Explorer XLT I believe mine is messed up as well in that area and the check engine light won't go off because of that I believe
Have you scanned the computer for a code? .
@@markfothebeast yes I did it said p1762 OBD Overdrive something like that but I fix my overdrive button I took out the fuse for the overdrive button and replaced it and for some reason my check engine light is still on one person said it could be something wrong with my transmission but the internet also only been giving me answers like it could be a sensor or solenoid I don't know if you have any type of answers Our advice I am willing to accept it to see what I can do to pass my smog I only got a week and I need to do it as soon as possible and thank you for replying
@@terryjoe323la I literally haven't worked on an older Explorer since this video a few years ago. What I'm finding is that this code does relate to the transmissions 4th gear (OD).
What happened with the vehicle in this video is that the transmission was leaking fluid from the side (some type of solenoid valve cover?) which led to its demise. This is a common problem but my knowledge on this vehicle is foggy.
@@markfothebeast hey that's good enough for me I'll let someone else know and maybe they can help me try to troubleshoot it but if you come across any more information you can always send me a message I will greatly appreciated and thank you for even responding the way you are 😎
Thank you!!
Thanks for your video it was very very helpful...I really appreciate it!👍😀👍
gracias saludos desde Chile
I'm on my 3rd one. Next time I will do it myself.
you should have replaced that PLASTIC garbage housing with an Aluminum one while you were in there. I just did this on my 2003 Ranger 4.0L, worth every bruised knuckle to do! Save me 500 bucks!
If it were my vehicle I would have went with the aluminum housing.
The engine ignition advance is around 19. When it is rough start. 16 when hot.
can you make one for the entire housing 🤫
thanks
In the video will the coolant temperature sensor be the gray one next to the red that's right behind the thermostat nevermind you had at the end of the video thank you very much
When cold start, it has rough idle. I do check the leakage before and after throttle body. Still not helping.
Una pregunta tengo Ford 4.0 ya le cambié termostato y radiador nuevo pero porque siempre la manguera superior se mantiene con más temperatura que la inferior ?
Excelente amigo.. saludos desde México
Angel Om Gracias!
Great video just did mine so help full Thanks keep up the videos
Pulled the thermostat and based off your video it was in my vehicle upside down. I corrected it to match your video and started having over heating issues. Somethings not right
This vehicle was not overheating before or after. Did you purge the cooling system of air completely?
@@markfothebeast it was not overheating prior and no I did not purge the system of air.
@@stephendouglass3044 Is this a new thermostat?
@@stephendouglass3044 I'd suggest purging air from the cooling system.
@@markfothebeast just pull the cap and let it run?
Once you separate the throttle body engine never runs the same
If the temperature sensor/sender is at fault, would you still be getting no heating?
No. There's other issues there.
This is the incorrect way to change the thermostat
You’re absolutely right that the back bolt on the thermostat is tough. Mine is stripped I believe because almost an hour of small turns with the ratchet and all it does is spin and doesn’t come out anymore. Any tips on that?
You'll have to remove the 2-piece thermostat housing and take a peek. I believe there's an embedded metal nut in the plastic lower thermostat housing that must be spinning.
@@markfothebeast can I take it off without removing that last bolt? At 2:45 in the video is the spot I’m referring to. There’s not much room for me to get even a hand in there without removing other components
@@MetalDrummer666 It has been about 8 years since I worked on this specific engine. I can't quite remember how everything came apart. I wish I could help.
@@markfothebeast I understand. Thanks for responding to such an old video of yours. Everything in it is perfectly explained, my car just wants to be difficult.
@@MetalDrummer666 Happy wrenching! It's cheaper to fix these old boys now days than replace the vehicle.
hola, tengo una ford igual, tengo problema para quitar el tercer tornillo que quitaste, por mas vueltas que le doy no sale. que podria hacer?
Excuse my Google Spanish translation if it is incorrect.
¿A cuál tercer tornillo se refiere? ¿En el cuerpo del acelerador o en la tapa del motor?
el tornillo que remueves en el minuto 2:48, el mio no quiere sali. Como le podre hacer?
+roberto alanis If you can't remove the rear thermostat housing bolt, you'll most likely need to replace both upper and lower thermostat housings. This requires the top half of the intake manifold to be removed.
+markfothebeast It is a common problem when dealing with plastic on an engine.
Can you tell me what the correct temperature is of the thermostat that should be in a 98 Ford explorer 4 l V6?
I'm not exactly sure but I'm going to guess 190 or 195.
@@markfothebeast thanks kinda what I thought so I appreciate the confirmation
My 96 explorer looks just like this I'm pretty sure its 91-2000 for yall who might be wondering
was the original gasket you removed an o ring type? was the new replacement an o ring gasket?
AgentNightWalker Yes. Both the new and old gaskets are O-rings and are identical.
AgentNightWalker the
Mark forehead
Do same steps apply for changing the whole housing?
Angel Gutierrez If you're refering to the upper and lower housing, yes. These steps AND removing the entire upper intake manifold, vacuum lines, wiring, etc. It's more time consuming than just this.
markfothebeast I did a this and it didn’t work. :(
I bought a sealant off of amazon. Hopefully it will work.
Angel Gutierrez You did replace the upper and lower housing and there's still a leak? These are very easily knicked during removal or installation. Just a small knick in either mating surface may cause a leak.
I'd tried black RTV sealant when I had the same issue. I attempted to seal it 2 or 3 times and was unsuccessful. Unfortunately, ABS plastic is a poor candidate for this use. My only option was to replace both the upper and lower housing which had fixed the issue.
markfothebeast I didn’t remove them bottom. Sorry I took long to reply. I still get the same leak every copyple of weeks or so.
*couple
Why doesn't anyone ever talk about the other 4.0 and have content on that engine?
Because they are far more reliable.
my truck doesn't turn on anymore
Brandie Lopez Test your ground connections & battery cables.
Does any one else have no sound for this?
@@Dorplord Well that's strange. There is no sound! CZcams must be having some issues. There's not much to hear other than the sound of my tools.
Meow, im a cat.
Maybe u can help me with my 89 trans am gta haha
Perhaps. I have a 95' LT1 Trans Am.
Sorry they don't sell just the stat u have to buy the whole unit 120 bucks since it is shit plastic
Please rephrase that, I'm not quite sure what you meant. $120 is steep if you are referring to both the upper and lower thermostat housing. A one piece aluminum housing can be purchased for $55 USD on Ebay.
That is the price at all the parts stores. I don't deal with ebay . I order one from simmins
About a year after making this video, the transmission had an unnoticeable fluid leak (common issue) that led to its demise. It wasn't even worth $120 in scrap. So just a word of caution; check that tranny fluid regularly as well or your dollars will be wasted.