Made the process super straightforward, no excessive amounts of unnecessary info... to the point and showing the average diy'er they can do it with just basic hand tools! WELL DONE!
did this the hard way the first time. back on the seat and feet in the air. after you learn where everything is, im able to do it by feel while kneeling outside the car with just my arm stuck under the dash.
Threading the long bolt all the way to the end of the threads to allow the pedal all the way up is not advised because the long bolt lengthens inside of the master cylinder and the bolt blocks the bleeder valve and doesn't allow the fluid from the slave to flow freely not giving a true pedal feel because it's holding pressure inside. Can't be good for long term hydraulic lines/ parts. You need to mark the long bolt prior to unfastening it, and adjust it while you go back and forth and move the slave by hand-- this tests to see if the piston inside of the slave moves freely and allows the fluid from the slave to travel back to the reservoir on the master. Repump the clutch to build pressure and repeat until you can move the slave and fluid returns to the reservoir. I had thought I did the job right and felt confident about it, even went for a drive but I smelled a little fluid leak somewhere, so I watched another video and ended up having to go back outside in the dark and adjust the long bolt because I believe it was blocking the return valve. Ideally you want the switch bolt(17mm), to be flush with the nut but I was not able to achieve this because my long bolt that blocks the master return was almost at the end of the threads when I was flush with the nut on the 17mm switch. Allowed a few threads to show near the switch instead(less than previously), and that allowed me to feel more confident about the long bolt's position. Went for a spin, and can't say things feel.. different? But I guess ease of mind knowing it's free flowing and not holding pressure in the slave or the return lines. Still achieved close to zero slop, and improved pedal feel and "sweet spot." The things I describe might be a first gen '89-'90 things. Instagram: reformedprize source: flying miata
Sweet. I need to do something to mine. I clicks hard each depression and I effin hate it. I think I’d put a rubber stop on it so it’s not metal on metal when not depressed in your case. But thanks for the pointers.
This literally happened to my mazda last night. It went from shifting fine to gear grinding. Thankfully I know how to clutch less shift so after it happened I was able to safely (without grinding further) get home
Had same issue with my NB. Went straight into replacing slave and master cylinder and nearly lost my mind when I had the same issue still happening. I'll try and fit ass down there tomorrow and HOPEFULLY this is what was causing my issue.
I'm having a similar issue on my NB. I can shift into gear no problem when starting the car, but when I try to shift out of gear, it will be stuck in gear. I have to let off the clutch and depress it again to engage the clutch. The clutch has a lot of play I think, it's almost impossible to lift off the clutch even a little without stalling the car.
Sounds to me like the pedal rod needs adjustment or the master/slave isn’t getting full pressure anymore. I’d try adjusting the rod first and then come back to let us know what happened.
@@MonkeyWrenching I tried adjusting the pedal a little, the bottom nut was stuck, so I just adjusted the top part. It made no difference, and looking at the pedal mechanism, it seems to be working fine. I think it's definitely the master/slave cylinder. Ordered both on Rockauto for 20 bucks and will replace them on Sunday.
@@MonkeyWrenching Update: Just replaced both master and slave cylinder and the clutch works good now! Engages firmly and holds when I press the pedal down. So glad it was just the cylinder. I was worried my synchros were going bad since I would hear a slight grinding when shifting from 1st to 2nd, but since I replaced the cylinders it's quiet.
@@Revved_up_jb I did finally manage to do it. Had to take off the plastic cover under the steering wheel, then basically lie upside down with my head in the footwell. Was a challenge!
cannot really understand what is going on by the comment alone but try checking the clutch cylinders it's a common problem for the miatas especially the slave cyl (I'm new to the car scene so try to ask for another opinion)
i’m having problems with my pedal , tried adjusting it like the flyin miata kit said to exactly do , was able to drive for three days and then boom couldn’t shift again and they said to try and re adjust the pedal and it’s still not working. i’m stuck
@@MonkeyWrenching i recently did a motor swap and replaced all the hydraulics while i was at it. the shifting problem began so i replaced them AGAIN and then adjusted the pedal as well and now i’m back to the same issue. everything is brand new :/
Hmm, that’s odd. I know with mine it took a bit for the pressure plate tension to settle in, now it’s not adjudged out so far but at first I was afraid I’d have to extend the adjustment rod.
Made the process super straightforward, no excessive amounts of unnecessary info... to the point and showing the average diy'er they can do it with just basic hand tools!
WELL DONE!
Thanks for the very helpful video. After trying literally everything else, this helped solve my clutch issue.
did this the hard way the first time. back on the seat and feet in the air. after you learn where everything is, im able to do it by feel while kneeling outside the car with just my arm stuck under the dash.
Yeah I remember my first time doing this on an NA Miata, same thing, feet waving in the air 😂
Threading the long bolt all the way to the end of the threads to allow the pedal all the way up is not advised because the long bolt lengthens inside of the master cylinder and the bolt blocks the bleeder valve and doesn't allow the fluid from the slave to flow freely not giving a true pedal feel because it's holding pressure inside. Can't be good for long term hydraulic lines/ parts. You need to mark the long bolt prior to unfastening it, and adjust it while you go back and forth and move the slave by hand-- this tests to see if the piston inside of the slave moves freely and allows the fluid from the slave to travel back to the reservoir on the master. Repump the clutch to build pressure and repeat until you can move the slave and fluid returns to the reservoir. I had thought I did the job right and felt confident about it, even went for a drive but I smelled a little fluid leak somewhere, so I watched another video and ended up having to go back outside in the dark and adjust the long bolt because I believe it was blocking the return valve. Ideally you want the switch bolt(17mm), to be flush with the nut but I was not able to achieve this because my long bolt that blocks the master return was almost at the end of the threads when I was flush with the nut on the 17mm switch. Allowed a few threads to show near the switch instead(less than previously), and that allowed me to feel more confident about the long bolt's position. Went for a spin, and can't say things feel.. different? But I guess ease of mind knowing it's free flowing and not holding pressure in the slave or the return lines. Still achieved close to zero slop, and improved pedal feel and "sweet spot." The things I describe might be a first gen '89-'90 things. Instagram: reformedprize source: flying miata
Thank you for your service 🙏
Sweet. I need to do something to mine. I clicks hard each depression and I effin hate it. I think I’d put a rubber stop on it so it’s not metal on metal when not depressed in your case. But thanks for the pointers.
Do the bolts work their way loose? I’m having the same problem and ready to replace the Master and Slave cylinders.
Is the 12mm bolt supposed to be hard to get loose? It won’t budge on my 2001.
This literally happened to my mazda last night. It went from shifting fine to gear grinding. Thankfully I know how to clutch less shift so after it happened I was able to safely (without grinding further) get home
this happened to me, mx-5 nb... same story, i hope this works
This video saved me 🙏
That looks more like a pain bro. Hahaha. Thank you v much for this
Does this work on other cars like a vw?
Thank you!
It's not supose to click or bang when you release. The knocking sound means that you're too close.
Had same issue with my NB. Went straight into replacing slave and master cylinder and nearly lost my mind when I had the same issue still happening. I'll try and fit ass down there tomorrow and HOPEFULLY this is what was causing my issue.
Did ot resolve the issue?
I'm having a similar issue on my NB. I can shift into gear no problem when starting the car, but when I try to shift out of gear, it will be stuck in gear. I have to let off the clutch and depress it again to engage the clutch. The clutch has a lot of play I think, it's almost impossible to lift off the clutch even a little without stalling the car.
Sounds to me like the pedal rod needs adjustment or the master/slave isn’t getting full pressure anymore. I’d try adjusting the rod first and then come back to let us know what happened.
@@MonkeyWrenching I tried adjusting the pedal a little, the bottom nut was stuck, so I just adjusted the top part. It made no difference, and looking at the pedal mechanism, it seems to be working fine.
I think it's definitely the master/slave cylinder. Ordered both on Rockauto for 20 bucks and will replace them on Sunday.
@@MonkeyWrenching Update: Just replaced both master and slave cylinder and the clutch works good now! Engages firmly and holds when I press the pedal down. So glad it was just the cylinder. I was worried my synchros were going bad since I would hear a slight grinding when shifting from 1st to 2nd, but since I replaced the cylinders it's quiet.
sweet im going to knock this out later ty
seems like there's more space around it on the LHD than RHD, mine is jammed right up next to the steering column
Same! I’ve just attempted this is my pedal has so much play and I cannot even see where the small nut is…
@@Revved_up_jb I did finally manage to do it. Had to take off the plastic cover under the steering wheel, then basically lie upside down with my head in the footwell. Was a challenge!
My Miata has an issue were I step on the clutch all the way and won’t start immediately why?
cannot really understand what is going on by the comment alone but try checking the clutch cylinders it's a common problem for the miatas especially the slave cyl (I'm new to the car scene so try to ask for another opinion)
Thanks
Need some new pedal bushings
i’m having problems with my pedal , tried adjusting it like the flyin miata kit said to exactly do , was able to drive for three days and then boom couldn’t shift again and they said to try and re adjust the pedal and it’s still not working. i’m stuck
When was the last time the clutch hydraulics were serviced? The slave might not be moving the fork enough
@@MonkeyWrenching i recently did a motor swap and replaced all the hydraulics while i was at it. the shifting problem began so i replaced them AGAIN and then adjusted the pedal as well and now i’m back to the same issue. everything is brand new :/
Hmm, that’s odd. I know with mine it took a bit for the pressure plate tension to settle in, now it’s not adjudged out so far but at first I was afraid I’d have to extend the adjustment rod.
maybe when you bled the clutch you didn’t get all the air out? mine had a lot of air
Cheers boss
Is this a permanent solution or a sign that there is a bigger problem?
There's no problem that maybe your clutch is wearing out but technically is fine
@@petermad7476 The slave cylinder was sweating, it has been replaced. Everything ok now.
Chur
Thank you!
Absolutely!