Shapeoko CNC Grounding
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- How to properly ground your Shapeoko CNC machine to help avoid static related problems with dust and chips sticking to the rails or controller disconnects with dust extraction running.
00:00 - Intro - why ground the machine?
00:25 - What's the problem with the current grounding?
02:54 - How to fix it
04:47 - Wiring it up
06:44 - The stock Z axis
08:27 - Testing
See the discussion here community.carbide3d.com/t/gro...
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I'm not real sure why a few folks are attacking via comments. Ground Loops, look them up commenters. Your microphone, voice, and tone are fine. Thank you for your video. I do feel that C3D should be addressing these issues a little better although I realize they cannot account for all situations we will ultimately put them into. Disconnects and plunges are an issue with these and I assume probably with other manufacturers as well.
Fantastically well organized and presented video, and deserves far more views! Why shouldn't everyone do these improvements? (Sorry if I overlooked your explanation.)
Another excellent explanation. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge, best out there on this subject.
Well done sir, well done. I appreciate the time you took to spread this knowledge.
#1, I went ahead and purchased an anti-static vacuum hose for CNC and a separate planer issue I had. The hose ended up NOT having a wire inside and I conducted an experiment. It sent all the static electricity to my Dust Deputy set-up, which is the old style. The Dust Deputy is not anti-static (older, clear version). It showed me that I need to ground this new hose, as the Dust Deputy sits on a plastic bucket, insulated from the basement floor. After planing a bit, shaving suddenly exploded out, seemingly from built up static electricity.
#2, more importantly, I am going to use the length of the same anti-static vacuum hose from machine to Dust Deputy set-up, and behind that will be the shop vac (shop vac does not have ground on plug). Should I just wrap a few feet of bare wire around the dust collection, or run a bare line all the way to the Dust Deputy and attach it to a bolt?
#3, I plan on using the banana jack plug for the ground. I need a 1M ohm resistor in ALL THREE LINES? So, do you have a suggestion on how to incorporate those into the lines using crimp-on connectors? I am not savvy with soldering. I have done some searching on the Internet for something plug in style, to no avail.
#4, not as important, but it appears that the wire size used in this example was 16g? Is that correct?
#5, I am looking to see if you ended up doing anything with the inquiry below from Mike Fitz.
Thank you,
Chris
Glad it's helping people,
#1 - That does indeed sound like the static charge may have created a clog in the hose.
#2 - On a hose without a wire, assuming it is semiconductive you can wrap a wire round it or use a metal jubilee clip which doubles up by anchoring the hose. I'd suggest running an insulated ground wire from the common ground point to the dust deputy and then breaking that out into two grouding points for the two bits of hose.
#3 - I recommended the resistor on all the lines to remove the risk of creating a ground loop as the Shapeoko CNC is quite sensitive to those. I grounded all the parts of mine back to the panel where my CNC and the VFD for the spindle is fed from and didn't use the resistors, but I was confident that I could spot the ground loop problem if it appeared. You can buy plugs which are for plugging anti-static wrist straps into;
www.antistat.co.uk/product/earth-plug-shrouded-banana-socket-stud/
Or you could crimp some resistors inline with the wire;
www.amazon.co.uk/Ohm-Metal-Film-Resistor-Tolerance/dp/B00WX6KZUE
If you buy the 1W type they tend to have larger leads which you could fold over and grip in a small crimp terminal, but the leads don't like to be flexed so make sure they're not going to be physically stressed. It might help to heat shrink the whole lot or something to protect them a bit.
#4 The wire size doesn't matter at all, this is meant to be low current and the 1 million ohm resistor is going to make the resistance of the wire irrelevant. Use whatever stranded wire you have handy.
#5 Not sure if Mike posted on the Carbide forum where there's lots of discussion about the grounding.
I wish you would have shown exactly how where you ran the grounding wire so newbies like me who have no clue on electrical stuff can learn and not blow things up.. lol. Nice informative video though Sir.
Ah, on my machine they go straight into the switchgear box for my VFD spindle but there's quite a few option, if you use the Carbide3d forums community.carbide3d.com post a message there and I'll see if I can come up with a useful answer for you
Thank you Sir!!
@@MrTeamfitz I would ignore half the advice on this tutorial. He makes a good point about the ground loop but you should be driving a ground rod then running a strap from the rod to a ground bar in the panel. (A brass bar with multiple tapped holes to land ground wires. All of your grounds going to the machine side should originate from this bar. The example showing him land a wire on a plastic wire clamp is not a good idea, surely you can find a better spot to land.
That plastic wire clamp is also the head of a bolt threaded into the anodized aluminium, as I point out you need to find somewhere to break through the insulating layer of aluminium oxide and a threaded hole is a good bet for that. Of course you're welcome to make your own suggestions, perhaps you should start a channel?
If you are using a Chinese made spindle then most likely it's not grounded.
The #4 pin of the aviation connector is generally not grounded to the spindle body. When connecting the double shielded cable it is a good idea to remove the top cap of the spindle and solder a ground wire to the #4 pin and then connect the wire to the body of the spindle.
This has the added effect of allowing you to use a Bitzero v1 or v2 without having to connect the groud wire.
Wow I didn't know David Gilmore was into CNC maching. He must know what he's doing as he has "the" accent. All kidding aside for a sentence, thanks for the info.
What gauge wire are you using to ground the machine?
I was using 16/0.2mm hookup wire (22AWG equiv) but it really doesn't matter what size, we're just conducting away static before it can build up so we don't need super low resistance. The exception to that is spindle grounding if you have a spindle, that needs to be at least the gauge of the other cores in the spindle power cord. HTH
In 2021 you sell a
Machine that has to have aftermarket grounding? Your diagram suggests obtaining a ground from a wall outlet? With a bonded nuetral? Surely you recommend customers drive a ground rod to create the ground system right?
Thanks Becky,
First, I don't sell this machine, I'm just a user of the machine.
The machine electronic enclosure is grounded by the supplied power supply to the utility ground. If you ground from some other source then you'll have different ground potentials on the machine and create new problems. If the utility ground in your region is not safe to use for grounding the machine then that is a different issue. I would certainly not recommend that a user drives a ground rod at their site to make up for underlying electrical issues in their wiring, that is a job for a qualified electrician.
I also recommend using 1M Ohm resistors in the ground connections for several reasons, ground loop reduction primarily but also risk reduction in the case of a floating ground connection or other problems. We are only draining away static charge here so very high resistances are fine.
Could you speak any quieter? Was the baby sleeping in your room?
boomer can't find the volume knob, huh?
Your microphone is horrible. It is all bass and treble. You need to get a standard cheap microphone. The are tuned for your voice and sound better than an expensive nice mic rig like in a radio station. ...which are all bass and treble. You need mids and high mids to get a clear voice tone.
Ah, yep, there wsa a load of background noise which I had to filter and it messed up the audio, didn't realise until too late.