How to Get the BEST Time Lapses with the DJI OSMO POCKET 3
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- Let's talk about how to get the best time lapses using the DJI Osmo Pocket 3.
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Table of Contents:
0:00 - Introduction
0:18 - The three tools I use
2:32 - Core settings
13:00 - ND filter settings
14:55 - Why use these settings?
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Thank you for this guide!
You’re welcome!
Great video! Thank you!
Thank you. You’re welcome!
Thanks for this video!
You’re welcome.
Super helpful. Thanks.
You’re welcome.
Awesome tutorial! Thanks for posting.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Thank you for the clear explanation!
You’re welcome!
Another great guide just purchased this camera . Thanks
You’re welcome. Enjoy it!
Excellent video, totally unpacks the topic and explains everything I needed to know. 🎉
Thank you. Appreciate your feedback.
I've watched a number of your vids on recording. This one sold me on subscribing.
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Great Video Bro, just found your channel
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great video!
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Thanks for this, first video that I saw actually dive deep into the timelapse settings, got some questions if I may - 1. Is there no Raw only option ? 2. Is 2s interval the fastest ? In any or all of the settings (video only, video +joeg, video + raw) ? 3. What’s the slowest shutter it can do on 2s interval and either not skip frames or maybe there’s an internal max setting it can do for set interval ?
I like manual and exposure and this is a great explanation. But sunrise might be tough for me to figure out as there's no way to get an e.v. in the pre dawn dark. I'm going camping the next few days, I suppose I'll try auto exposure for sunrise.
Osmo pocket 3 is really practical for making beautiful time lapses, even at night with the starry sky it does a good job. Thanks for the great advice.
Yes, it is a great camera for time lapses. Thanks.
I was actually pretty disappointed with the night sky performance with it limited to 1 second max shutter, they should have made it a LEAST 4-8 seconds
Yes I would like to see DJI add the manual options to slow the shutter speed down to at least 10 seconds for these purposes.
Great video, thanks. When I film Timelapse with my Oslo Pocket 3 the camera stops sometimes in the middle of the footage. I mean it is not freezing, but just stops to take Timelapse. For example if I want my final video be lets say 15 sec, the camera might stop after taking only 2 or 5 or 7 seconds. It is random. I think it happens more often when I use motion time-lapse rather than static. Do you have any idea what could be a problem?
Hallo. Super Video. Welche Einstellungen für einen Sonnenaufgang ohne Nd Filter?
5 Sekunden ISO 50 und shutter auch 1/120 ?
In der Dunkelheit bevor die Sonne auf geht weiss ich ja sonst nicht wie ich den shutter speed einstellen soll?
Good video. Looking at lots before attempting Timelapse of eclipse. Practicing today was frustrating. Clear sky, bright sun, clouds forecast for eclipse tomorrow of course. So bright was trying to use Mimo app to steer camera to frame sun. More difficult than I figured. Seems Mimo uses wifi to connect and iPad can’t be far away from camera. Using ND32 today, will look at samples tonight and may adjust. Very challenging.
Thank you. It is a good idea to practice and find what you like best. I did also make this video more specific to the eclipse settings I recommend: czcams.com/video/hgKiYwTktTw/video.htmlsi=iD7T6nCLHY8PLCx4
Really clear, structured, well presented. Thank you!
Have you experimented with ISO 100 versus 50? I understand that hundred is the true base for the sensor and 50 maybe actually using tricks to push it down.
Thanks! I have tried ISO 100 as well and didn’t really notice any difference in video quality.
Excellent tutorial. Wouldn't you want to frame the sky first before setting exposure though?
Yes, it is ideal to frame the sky first but will largely depend on which direction the camera is facing relative to the sun and how much of the frame is sky vs ground.
What setting do you feel best to capture the light to darkness to light during the eclipse next month ?
great tutorial, thank you very much for this! I only have one simple question about the focus: if you set it to auto, isn't there the risk to have unpleasant focus changes during the timelpase? I remember forgetting to put the focus into manual in my reflex once, and the timelapse was clearly showing a continuous hunt of the camera for the right focus...
Thank you. Yes, this is possible if you have something close to the foreground of the time lapse, but otherwise is likely not an issue. If there is a close object in the foreground then do recommend a manual focus lock on the background if that is the focus point of the time lapse.
If you use the Mimo app on the phone to setup the motion lapse you can set more than just 2 waypoints.
Yes, this is correct. Thank you for sharing this helpful tip.
11:50 Can I zoom the Pocket 3 closer prior to starting the time lapse?
Great tutorial!!! When creating Timelapse movies and you want to add the clip into a 24 timeline, should you use 30 or 25?
Thanks! You would want to use 30 fps as this will translate well on a 24fps timeline due to the divisible count of the frames.
@@GreatDayForAHike I did a test with clouds moving, the 25 fps was much smoother than 30 fps on 24 timeline. Is there something I'm doing wrong in the capture of the Timelapse? Thanks again.
@GKrimstein Technically the 25fps time lapse on a 24fps time will result in one dropped frame per second. The 30fps can be made smoother by interpreting this footage as 24fps if your video editing software allows for this.
@GKrimstein But ultimately if you want to put this clip on a 24fps timeline, selecting 24fps will give the easiest to work with footage as it will directly match the timeline setting you have.
Hello
Thank you for this excellent tutorial, like always very well explained and useful info. Personally when I’m making a day-to-night TL I prefer to set to auto exposure. Apparently the change in exposure is quit smooth. But in order not to end in very high iso’s you can set the maximum iso to for example 200 or 800. When the interval is long enough 4-6 seconds the exposure will even go to 4-5 seconds depending on the interval,
Way over the max. 1 second exposure which is available in the manual setting.
The example made on the Teide didn’t exceed the 1 sec interval because of the clarity of the lens and I had to leave before it went completely dark. Max iso set to 200, interval 5 seconds and auto mode. The first image had an exposure of 1/1000 and the last one 1 second. Don’t like the 1/1000 but using a filter was not an option…
Would certainly follow your advice for using a manual setting + ND filter (daylight) for daylight or even nighttime timelapse’s.
The example here is the rendered clip of the DJI itself. The raw files had some little changes in clarity but nothing that couldn't be handled by LRTimelapse.
See the clip from the DJI pocket: vimeo.com/903298400
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. Yes for a day to night or night to day time lapse it would definitely be necessary to use that auto exposure. There will be some trade offs with using that auto exposure but if one is wanting that full day to night transition that is the only way to go for sure. Thanks!
I have seen that the auto can achieve longer shutters, but by limiting the ISO to a very low number negating any extra light you get so you don't really gain anything, it's still too underexposed compared to the ability to manually set to 5 or 10 seconds manually with a bit higher ISO
Actually depending on the subject you can also set 1600 or 3200 ISO as max without hesitation for an interval of 10 sec. Doing so you will get 9 sec exposures at 3200 ISO for really dark sky's. Although I didn't test it until now, neither did I test 20-30sec interval with long exposures.
However in city environments it isn't needed to go so high in ISO...but you will get nice light trails with long exposures and iso 100-200 (or more if needed)
I think that for light trails you will even need ND filters.
The purpose is to limit noise and favorite longer exposures. And yes would prefer to do this manually but difficult while doing a timelapse with the pocket.
@@edwarddebruyn8717 really? I will have to experiment, you set the ISO manually to 1600 or 3200 or have to have it on auto?
@@pdub422 Manually whatever ISO can be chosen. The auto-maximum ISO can be set all the way up to 6400. I set aut-max to for example 400-600 ISO instead of leaving it going all the way up to 6400 to prevent that the auto mode would prefer higher ISO instead of longer exposures of for example 5-10 or even(30 sec (depending on the interval). Would be better that the exposure time would go all up to the interval time before there is an auto rise in ISO. But no control possible in auto mode.
Can you create a Hyperlapse using Photo Mode and Active Track. In other words like a traditional way to do a Hyperlapse. Stepping forward taking a shot and repeating until you have an appropriate amount of shots.
I have not tested doing it using this method. It seems like it could be possible but I’m not sure if the results would be better than the Hyperlapse mode built into the Pocket 3.
How big movie files does a time lapse create? E.g. for 5 minutes of recording? Of course, depends on the resolution...thanks
Not too large. Some I have filmed at sunset for a few hours resulting in a few minute time lapse end up being around 1GB in size.
I am considering buying OP3 but am hesitating as I have OA1 and it creates huge video files that requires quite high processing capacity and after editing e.g. a 30min video file is pretty big.@@GreatDayForAHike
👍
Thanks.
Extremely informative video, can I send you a timelapse of mine so you can tell me your opinion?
Thank you. Certainly, I’d be happy to offer my opinion.
@@GreatDayForAHike Thank you very much, they come to your email and they are with this miraculous little camera.
I was under the impression that the Pocket 3 is not able to charge while recording, is that not the case?
Why do dji have 1 sec at max? 🫣
It seems the Pocket 3 can go to even slower shutter speeds when leaving the shutter speed setting on Auto but if this is the case I would like to see DJI make these slower shutter speeds available to manually select. Maybe in a future firmware update?