Eastwood's Internal Frame Rail Coating!!! Comes with a long tube that you can stick inside the frame rail and you just slowly take out the tube as you coat the inside of the rail! This is by far the easiest process!
Yeah I actually have a can of that, but I was concerned. Is that OK to spray in there even though the frame rails aren't completely brushed clean of loose debris and rust?
@@Triplenickelmotorsports Haha yeah that's what I was thinking of doing. Either that or hook up a long air hose attachment to a compressor and start blasting. Looks like this is the answer.
@@RestorationForBeginners Yes it's 100% fine. If you want I would just use compressed air get anything out that you can if anything even comes out and use the Eastwood. It's made to prevent and destroy rust and stop the spread of rust that is already there.
If your going to go the mediablasting/acid dipping route its better to do that now and see how much car you have left and what metal fabrication is required to bring it back instead of doing all the metal repairs now and then have the dipper or media blaster eat away more car. For the S30 blasting options-Dustless blasting is the only way to go, regular dry blasting heats up the metal too much and will warp everything. No commercial outfit is going to take the time it would take to blast slowly enough to not warp is the best way I can put it so even with dustless they are trying to blast it, make money, and move on. I NEVER blast body panels, only undercarriage, interior and subframe, Body Panels get the Orbital or DA treatment with sandpaper or if there's multiple layers of bad paint, out comes the aircraft stripper. The frame rails...don't appear that bad, surface rust, minor pitting. I wouldn't put too much thought past blowing them out with compressed air and a long reach wand and vacuum. One you get a good epoxy primer on the outside of them, lay down some seam sealer, and then top coat with another round of epoxy, base and clear you'll plenty protecting them. If you want to overdo it buy the internal frame rail coating But I typically stray from 1 part paint products, or anything from an aerosol can for that matter.
I’m a big fan of rust converters. They convert surface rust to a paintable polymer. I’ve used it serval time with great results, The brand I use is Corroseal. You could it spray inside the frame rail and then rinse it out. All the rust will turn in to a black polymer coating that you can then paint. I’ve never used Eastman’s frame rail coating but reading about it online it appears to be a good product.
I agree with the Eastwood products they have an internal frame coding that is green and after that you could also spray the heavy duty antitrust coating they offer which is double the protection
I'm thoroughly enjoying you work on your Z, as I ended up tearing down my own Z to prevent anymore rust damage. Although I think you could speed up your progress if you use rust converter followed up with encapsulator for some of the deeper surface rust. But if you really want to strip everything to bare metal at this point you should just have the whole car blasted at a shop. Good luck, and I can't wait for you to drop in that RB25.
Haha you and me both man, I know I'm being really slow. Between my day job, finger injury, oppressively hot/humid weather, and my being an absolute novice at all of this, it's all taking forever. But it's not about the destination, I'm just having a bit of fun learning my way through all of this. Thanks for sticking with the channel though, I appreciate you.
The insides of the rails is perhaps a candidate to use a sandblaster. Then you can use Boeshield T-9 (aircraft steel coating) or spray primer inside. People who restore bicycles (like me) use a coating called "framesaver" inside of the tubes after the frame is built. velo-orange.com/pages/how-to-use-frame-saver
Nobody says that japanese cars in the 1970s had very much quality. So for example they didn't zinc the entire frame or even prime it all, just the outsides, cars only lasted 6 years back then, not 11+ like today.
You can use diluted bar and chain oil. Another North Eastern youtuber uses it a lot on his projects. But the Eastwood Coating has raving reviews so it may be a more viable solution in your situation as acces is not exactly bountiful.
To answer question #2 not sure if it helps much since I live in AZ, but yes I took mine to get mostly media blasted and the hood was acid washed. The car was completely disassembled like yours. I just fabricated a chassis dolly out of 1" square tubing and some casters from the hardware store and put it on a trailer. They put the car on a rotisserie and media blasted the outside, inside, and underneath and then layed an epoxy primer on everything to prevent flash rust, cost $1800 for everything. Hope this helps.
Spray the inside of the frame with wax spray. Vehcor uses it all the time in his rebuilds. Comes with a tube to get into the holes in the frames. He's shown cars where he treated one side, and not the other, and after a few years the untreated side was rusted away. The treated side looked almost untouched by comparison.
Almost cuts finger off goes back to just latex gloves using a table saw and various grinders lol.. btw I used Eastwood internal frame coating on mine used probably way more than necessary also used it in the frame rails below the seats floor area
LOL oh come on man, whenever I'm using a cutoff wheel I'm using real gloves. And no gloves are going to save you if things get f'ed up with a table saw. But fair enough, I'll be even more careful. Thanks for the tip on the internal frame coating, appreciate it!
I dig. My z belt bit my fingers once. I don't use gloves in the bay but I do when underneath or doing those "punch the block" moves. Eyes and ears are a must!
acid dip, otherwise you will never really get rid of the rust, the downside is you might have issues when painting if the frame hasn't been dried off properly.
I have used Eastwood frame rail product and I like the ease of use and formulation. I have also been looking at the NHOU products. Specifically the oil based undercoating. It seems like it might also be a very good product. Finally, Waxoyl is another product to consider, specifically the 120-4 aerosol. BTW, you might want to consider including access hole on each frame rail to reapply in the difficult to areas. A small hole/access point can easily be protected with a rubber sheet metal plug.
Glad to see you back! If you don't play on straight out replacing those frame rails (which is a ton of work but doable) then I'd look into some sort of rust encapsulater. I think Eastwood has a product that allows you to get into the frame rails for full coverage. Just my 2 cents from working in restoration shops for 4 years now. Also really glad to see you remove the factory lower radiator mount/crossbar. I thought for a second you were going to box new metal over it. We've had many builds that came from someone elses prior work where the custom firewall was rusted out and that was because someone would build a nice bead rolled firewall out of thinner metal and weld it over the top of the original which is never a good idea as moisture can get between the two layers. Anyways man, your on the right path and doing good!
bro I live in the carolina's as well, north carolina. I used muriatic acid and sprayed sections of my car then followed up with self etching primer immediately after its dry and has been cleaned. otherwise it will flash rust. acid will annihilate the rust (make sure to dillute with water). downsides are its pretty hazardous to you and like I said before the flash rust is real with using acid but it does work great. if you have a compressor I have a sand blaster for outdoors, I will give it to you if you are in the area and wanna pick it up . zip:27105 its a tank you fill and connect to air.
Hey man, thanks for the offer. I actually have a media blaster that a friend lent me, but I'm not really in a situation (I live in a townhome) where I can just blast the whole car. The mess would be insane (I'd cover all of my neighbors' cars with dust) and I'm trying to be considerate. I'm actually just looking for a shop to take over once most of the rust fixing/welding is done.
Questions: 1. What coating/chemical do you guys recommend that I use inside of the frame rails to prevent further rusting? 2. Anyone have any experience working with a restoration shop for media blasting and/or acid dipping?
I've been putting POR-15 on everything that I've rust converted, or wire wheeled down. Probably going to end up cutting the frame rails off, and replacing them eventually...
@@publicenemyno1316 Are you saying that I should cut the frame rails off, or are you saying that you will? Because I did consider doing that. Should I just try to spray as much por15 as I can down the frame rail?
@@RestorationForBeginners not saying you should, but that's what I will probably end up doing. The LS' torque will be too much for rusty frame rails, so I'm going to take preventative measures
I’m helping my son do a 260z and he found a place in North Carolina we are gonna take it to for acid dip. I think we live close to you cause we watched a video where you went to that crazy salvage yard in the woods run by that hillbilly family. Let me know if you want info on the place?
Restoration For Beginners the place is called Carolina chem strip, probably a 2 month turn around time, but if you got as much rust as we do it might be worth it in the long run. As others have said you can get in all the nooks and crannies with Eastwood coatings that come with a tube to get in the tight places.
I would recommend rust bullet for coating the rust. Summit racing has a video where some test panels coated in a variety of rust reforming paints are subjected to ASTM and US Navy standardized testing: m.czcams.com/video/I07ra5_c1sM/video.html Rust bullet performed the best in the test, even better than por15. However, Eastwood’s products were not included in the test. There is an automotive and industrial version of the coating, and I think the industrial version would be a better fit for your application. However, If you can afford it, I think acid dipping and sandblasting might be the only practical way to get the car to the condition you seem to want instead of trying to use a coating. I also have an old Z, and there seems to be a nearly infinite amount of rust between the panels of the unibody.
All cars, but especially Japanese cars from the 70s are notorious for their ability to rust out. I grew up in Seattle and it was pretty easy as of the earliest years of 2K, to still locate minimally rust free Z parts, but they usually would have to have spent their entire life in a desert like climate. Eventually the paint and such was improved considerably, but still salted roads such as in my Wisconsin home, all cars soon look like they sit in a salt bath very shortly.
Eastwood's Internal Frame Rail Coating!!! Comes with a long tube that you can stick inside the frame rail and you just slowly take out the tube as you coat the inside of the rail! This is by far the easiest process!
Yeah I actually have a can of that, but I was concerned. Is that OK to spray in there even though the frame rails aren't completely brushed clean of loose debris and rust?
Yes this, its a rust encapsulator so yes your good to spray it in there.
@@RestorationForBeginners stick a shop-vac hose in there and get as much debris out and then coat it well. It has worked well for us.
@@Triplenickelmotorsports Haha yeah that's what I was thinking of doing. Either that or hook up a long air hose attachment to a compressor and start blasting. Looks like this is the answer.
@@RestorationForBeginners Yes it's 100% fine. If you want I would just use compressed air get anything out that you can if anything even comes out and use the Eastwood. It's made to prevent and destroy rust and stop the spread of rust that is already there.
If your going to go the mediablasting/acid dipping route its better to do that now and see how much car you have left and what metal fabrication is required to bring it back instead of doing all the metal repairs now and then have the dipper or media blaster eat away more car.
For the S30 blasting options-Dustless blasting is the only way to go, regular dry blasting heats up the metal too much and will warp everything. No commercial outfit is going to take the time it would take to blast slowly enough to not warp is the best way I can put it so even with dustless they are trying to blast it, make money, and move on.
I NEVER blast body panels, only undercarriage, interior and subframe, Body Panels get the Orbital or DA treatment with sandpaper or if there's multiple layers of bad paint, out comes the aircraft stripper.
The frame rails...don't appear that bad, surface rust, minor pitting. I wouldn't put too much thought past blowing them out with compressed air and a long reach wand and vacuum.
One you get a good epoxy primer on the outside of them, lay down some seam sealer, and then top coat with another round of epoxy, base and clear you'll plenty protecting them.
If you want to overdo it buy the internal frame rail coating But I typically stray from 1 part paint products, or anything from an aerosol can for that matter.
I’m a big fan of rust converters. They convert surface rust to a paintable polymer. I’ve used it serval time with great results, The brand I use is Corroseal. You could it spray inside the frame rail and then rinse it out. All the rust will turn in to a black polymer coating that you can then paint. I’ve never used Eastman’s frame rail coating but reading about it online it appears to be a good product.
Glad you're back. Started tackling my LS swap on mine.
I agree with the Eastwood products they have an internal frame coding that is green and after that you could also spray the heavy duty antitrust coating they offer which is double the protection
Got it!
I'm thoroughly enjoying you work on your Z, as I ended up tearing down my own Z to prevent anymore rust damage. Although I think you could speed up your progress if you use rust converter followed up with encapsulator for some of the deeper surface rust. But if you really want to strip everything to bare metal at this point you should just have the whole car blasted at a shop. Good luck, and I can't wait for you to drop in that RB25.
Haha you and me both man, I know I'm being really slow. Between my day job, finger injury, oppressively hot/humid weather, and my being an absolute novice at all of this, it's all taking forever. But it's not about the destination, I'm just having a bit of fun learning my way through all of this. Thanks for sticking with the channel though, I appreciate you.
The insides of the rails is perhaps a candidate to use a sandblaster. Then you can use Boeshield T-9 (aircraft steel coating) or spray primer inside. People who restore bicycles (like me) use a coating called "framesaver" inside of the tubes after the frame is built. velo-orange.com/pages/how-to-use-frame-saver
Nobody says that japanese cars in the 1970s had very much quality. So for example they didn't zinc the entire frame or even prime it all, just the outsides, cars only lasted 6 years back then, not 11+ like today.
You can use diluted bar and chain oil. Another North Eastern youtuber uses it a lot on his projects. But the Eastwood Coating has raving reviews so it may be a more viable solution in your situation as acces is not exactly bountiful.
Glad ur back and by now u should have answers to ur questions on rust n rails, Eastwood
To answer question #2 not sure if it helps much since I live in AZ, but yes I took mine to get mostly media blasted and the hood was acid washed. The car was completely disassembled like yours. I just fabricated a chassis dolly out of 1" square tubing and some casters from the hardware store and put it on a trailer. They put the car on a rotisserie and media blasted the outside, inside, and underneath and then layed an epoxy primer on everything to prevent flash rust, cost $1800 for everything. Hope this helps.
Spray the inside of the frame with wax spray. Vehcor uses it all the time in his rebuilds. Comes with a tube to get into the holes in the frames. He's shown cars where he treated one side, and not the other, and after a few years the untreated side was rusted away. The treated side looked almost untouched by comparison.
Almost cuts finger off goes back to just latex gloves using a table saw and various grinders lol.. btw I used Eastwood internal frame coating on mine used probably way more than necessary also used it in the frame rails below the seats floor area
LOL oh come on man, whenever I'm using a cutoff wheel I'm using real gloves. And no gloves are going to save you if things get f'ed up with a table saw. But fair enough, I'll be even more careful.
Thanks for the tip on the internal frame coating, appreciate it!
I dig. My z belt bit my fingers once. I don't use gloves in the bay but I do when underneath or doing those "punch the block" moves. Eyes and ears are a must!
acid dip, otherwise you will never really get rid of the rust, the downside is you might have issues when painting if the frame hasn't been dried off properly.
I would use Eastwood Frame Rail Coating and when its dry some Fluid Film over that to just make extra sure.
I have used Eastwood frame rail product and I like the ease of use and formulation. I have also been looking at the NHOU products. Specifically the oil based undercoating. It seems like it might also be a very good product. Finally, Waxoyl is another product to consider, specifically the 120-4 aerosol. BTW, you might want to consider including access hole on each frame rail to reapply in the difficult to areas. A small hole/access point can easily be protected with a rubber sheet metal plug.
+1 for the access/drainage holes. I've been eyeballing spots to let water drain out of the frame rails while keeping the seams/cracks closed up.
Glad to see you back! If you don't play on straight out replacing those frame rails (which is a ton of work but doable) then I'd look into some sort of rust encapsulater. I think Eastwood has a product that allows you to get into the frame rails for full coverage. Just my 2 cents from working in restoration shops for 4 years now. Also really glad to see you remove the factory lower radiator mount/crossbar. I thought for a second you were going to box new metal over it. We've had many builds that came from someone elses prior work where the custom firewall was rusted out and that was because someone would build a nice bead rolled firewall out of thinner metal and weld it over the top of the original which is never a good idea as moisture can get between the two layers. Anyways man, your on the right path and doing good!
I was in sacramento california at the time but i had my shell plastic media blasted and then dipped in primer. it came out very well.
Eastwood is great! My friend and I used it on hit trailer
Use all Eastwood products ,,por15 will crack and allow moisture in on s30 chasis
bro I live in the carolina's as well, north carolina. I used muriatic acid and sprayed sections of my car then followed up with self etching primer immediately after its dry and has been cleaned. otherwise it will flash rust. acid will annihilate the rust (make sure to dillute with water). downsides are its pretty hazardous to you and like I said before the flash rust is real with using acid but it does work great. if you have a compressor I have a sand blaster for outdoors, I will give it to you if you are in the area and wanna pick it up . zip:27105 its a tank you fill and connect to air.
Hey man, thanks for the offer. I actually have a media blaster that a friend lent me, but I'm not really in a situation (I live in a townhome) where I can just blast the whole car. The mess would be insane (I'd cover all of my neighbors' cars with dust) and I'm trying to be considerate. I'm actually just looking for a shop to take over once most of the rust fixing/welding is done.
Have you looked up rerubber rust protection?
Hey, love the videos! Out of curiosity, what paint code is your 280z?
Questions: 1. What coating/chemical do you guys recommend that I use inside of the frame rails to prevent further rusting? 2. Anyone have any experience working with a restoration shop for media blasting and/or acid dipping?
I've been putting POR-15 on everything that I've rust converted, or wire wheeled down. Probably going to end up cutting the frame rails off, and replacing them eventually...
@@publicenemyno1316 Are you saying that I should cut the frame rails off, or are you saying that you will? Because I did consider doing that. Should I just try to spray as much por15 as I can down the frame rail?
Eastwood
@@publicenemyno1316 por15 dry like stone and will crack and allow moisture in on s30 chassis ,
@@RestorationForBeginners not saying you should, but that's what I will probably end up doing. The LS' torque will be too much for rusty frame rails, so I'm going to take preventative measures
I’m helping my son do a 260z and he found a place in North Carolina we are gonna take it to for acid dip. I think we live close to you cause we watched a video where you went to that crazy salvage yard in the woods run by that hillbilly family. Let me know if you want info on the place?
Haha yeah! That really was a crazy junkyard in the woods. Once you walked in it was almost cinematic. Let me know which place you're considering!
Restoration For Beginners the place is called Carolina chem strip, probably a 2 month turn around time, but if you got as much rust as we do it might be worth it in the long run. As others have said you can get in all the nooks and crannies with Eastwood coatings that come with a tube to get in the tight places.
I would recommend rust bullet for coating the rust. Summit racing has a video where some test panels coated in a variety of rust reforming paints are subjected to ASTM and US Navy standardized testing:
m.czcams.com/video/I07ra5_c1sM/video.html
Rust bullet performed the best in the test, even better than por15. However, Eastwood’s products were not included in the test.
There is an automotive and industrial version of the coating, and I think the industrial version would be a better fit for your application.
However, If you can afford it, I think acid dipping and sandblasting might be the only practical way to get the car to the condition you seem to want instead of trying to use a coating. I also have an old Z, and there seems to be a nearly infinite amount of rust between the panels of the unibody.
Great video, what did you use as a degreaser? I’m tearing my 300zx apart and have a bunch of parts I would like to throw in a hot tank or degreaser.
It looks like white vinegar, or are you referring to something else?
WAs this car under water???
sigh. It might as well have been. I'm afraid this is just what the salty roads and rainy/humid weather of the US east coast does to cars over decades.
All cars, but especially Japanese cars from the 70s are notorious for their ability to rust out. I grew up in Seattle and it was pretty easy as of the earliest years of 2K, to still locate minimally rust free Z parts, but they usually would have to have spent their entire life in a desert like climate. Eventually the paint and such was improved considerably, but still salted roads such as in my Wisconsin home, all cars soon look like they sit in a salt bath very shortly.
No views. I’ve never even seen that.
I'm not a very popular channel haha
Glad you're back. Started tackling my LS swap on mine.
Best of luck to you sir. I hope to get to the fun bits soon.