Cracked Pressure Washer Pump. Will Gorilla Glue Fix It?
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 10. 2020
- after finding this pressure washer in the trash we got it running. then found it to have a crack in the pump from freezing water. viewers asked me to try an epoxy on it like jb weld or gorilla glue. well lets find out.
- Zábava
Great video! If you want to give it another attempt, low temp aluminum brazing rods are fantastic and very simple to use.
Just dont use the cheap Chinese ones!!!
@ProjectFarm after your video with the brazing rods you saved me from going and buying back all those little parts with cracks on them.
Blue Devil and Hobart are the best im a welder and i used them a lot of time on crankcase and pump
Mustie can pressure wash your WinnieVan...
Project Farm has entered the chat!!!! Heh heh!
I'm not sure anything is going to hold it for long, but this is a fun comments section....
A new machine almost identical to what he's got there appears to be $249 brand new....
Not sure I'd put a $90 pump in it....
Yep you’re only $90 away from having an $80 pressure washer 😆
or 200 in labor away
Plus labour.
New pump is around $60 on Amazon. Takes about 10 mins to swap out. For a homeowner it's a no brainier. Not so much for a small engine repair shop. But Mustie1 makes these videos for the former.
@@buddyrevell6369 Not many homeowners have a sandblaster handy.☺ $60 for a new pump keeps it out of the junkyard. Makes sense to me. That is if you are also a Carburetor Whisperer like mustie.
For 90 bucks you can get a cheap electric one lol
Because of your first video on this power washer, I was motivated to flush out my power washer and prep it for winter storage. A great reminder. Keep the videos coming.
For those with Cellars...it is just a matter of taking the pressure washers...and bringing them into the warm cellars...
Don't give up oh Mustie1. Personally I'd have sandwiched the epoxy between the pump housing crack and a a cut and bent to shape small arch of 16th steel or aluminium. Epoxy tends to need something on both sides to really work and resist flexing. I promise you, that my plan is foolproof!🧡 It'll take 10 minutes and cost nothing 😉 Go on! I have faith!
Water ALWAYS goes where it wants , especially when it's in a hurry .
Especially when it is under pressure because water does not compress.
It’s like a little water jet cnc
Bill,
In the words of Glenn Nagy,
“Water always wins”,
I've tried the same repair using original JB Weld and had exactly the same level of success.
Great explanation 👌
i have been turning wrench for 40+ years the thing i like about your videos is you show alternative ways to repair things not all people can afford to just go out and buy the parts if they could then why just not buy a new unit and be done with it. i work on heavy equipment as well as a welder machinist i have never messed with small engines i have learned a lot from you about them even though they are same principle keep up the great work.
I found the same power washer along side the road with the same leak. The replacement part cost $68 and I gave it to my daughter which saves me from carting mine to her house... Great videos and Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Thank you sir for another great video. I loved the second attempt. Time to throw in the towel. I'd rather see other videos instead of 2 years of attempting to repair the same thing. I agree with your comment about the heat and damaging all of the innerds. You are a Class Act. you could have just said "told ya so" to all of the armchair experts out there. Thanks for the bonus follow up content.
Yea! You finally show a video failure that looks EXACTLY my everyday repair attempts! :D
Not surprised, EXACTLY what I expected from that "fix" but much appreciate you taking the time and making the effort to investigate it and make the video. Well done.
It was worth a go but with that pressure it was unlikely to work. Nice video.
Love your videos/explanations. JUST A THOUGHT - for a permanent repair on this blowout pump area if anyone would consider keeping a pressure washer like this unit. I was a jeweler for many years and learned some Japanese metal smithing techniques - one of which I would use on this soft metal. It uses the concept of under cutting the repair area and tapping in a softer metal into that undercut. It forms a mechanical lock into the under cut slot. Since I have jeweler burrs, I would use a 1 1/2 mm ball burr to under cut the ‘crack’ area on this pump. It would look like a “C” shaped cavity. I would keep it shallow since the pump isn’t very thick in this repair area. I’d then tap one length of lead/silver plumbing solder into that under cut slot. I would probably have stuffed the slot first with the gorilla glue just for extra grab. Most would squish out but the overlay of more glue would blend with it and help keep the soft solder in place. The pressure then would be exerted onto the solder and not the glue directly. I might have also wrapped over the cast parting line at the crack with some stainless screen and laid it in the same area you did, making a further lock on that area. Sorry for the length and this may not be for everyone but I’ve had to do this type of repair, since I either couldn’t afford a new unit or, as in this case, the cost of a new part is more than the cost of a new unit. Thanks for all your postings.
In Australia we call that metal "Chinesium".
In the UK: 'shitmetal'. |-)
U.S. it's "CRAP" !
In the US we call it UNOBTANIUM
Mao developed the formula for Chinesium during the Great Leap Forward
Thats a american term u stole from us
Really enjoyed this. There’s man-fixing, there’s man-post-morteming and there’s man-experimenting. Variety is the spice of life and all are great to watch.
What a honest attempt to fix it! Clean the glue off and try something else because it seems to be a decent washer! keep the videos coming, we think your great in WASHINGTON STATE!!!
When you patch something like that, it really helps to incorporate some metal into it. For instance, glue a strip onto that ridge that sticks out above the hole. Do this in two stages. Make it fit along the ridge as far as it stretches flat, and then let it hang out over the area with the hole. This would form a dam when it dries. Turn the part up on its side then, so you can fill up the that area just where the hole is. Lay another strip in there with the glue to strengthen it even more. The metal acts the same way rebar does in concrete. It maintains tension where the mass would be likely to blow out under pressure.
that makes sense
I was thinking JB Weld when I first watched you say you were going to use it for parts.
Great as always Mustie1. We seem to have had some dandruff fall on our lawn overnight up here in Northwestern NH. I agree with the cost of the pump. I would only offer you 100.00 max for that machine if it was working as it should. I bought a brand new pressure washer 2 seasons ago for 225.00 and it has a warranty, so yeah I really don't see much profit. Watching you try to fix it is great entertainment though.
I actually used this epoxy for sealing a reservoir for my pc water cooling pump and its brilliant for such little cost. Great video dude keep up with the great content
id try some lumiweld, its lower temperature braze type rods for alloy.. like you mention about the valves.. might try disassmble it and see what you can take out.. good experiment to see how well it disassembles and reassembles.. ive done it before successfully... the rods are cheap and come in really handy too
There is minimal practice needed with lumiweld. Just a clean joint free of iron contaminants and a steady hand.
We have a word for that in NZ, "BUGGER", oh well at least ya gave it a try.
A brave try, I could not say that I had high hopes for your fix but at least it was worth a go.
Thank you for testing this out. I was considering a similar approach with another application and this kinda answered that. Great video.
You'll need to be mindful of where the stains are in the garage....just park the pressure washer over that spot and let it Auto-clean the tough spots while you power wash the Mrs' car!
I was thinking the same thing! It's not a leak, it's an automatic driveway cleaning feature!
Now that’s funny
Lol
Just put it on a vacuum robot and let it clean automatically
it also makes the spray safer on paint
I've attempted the low temp aluminum welding/brazing rod on these and like Mustie said it's futile. The metal is The crappiest aluminum / pot metal concoction and just blows away.
Why am I not surprised ?
what about lead solder, not super super hot, easy enough to attempt?
@@wolfie965 No type of solder will stick to aluminum alloys. Your best bet would probably be Tig aluminum with 4043 rod. But you're going to fight the porosity / air bubbles the whole time.
@@sixtyfiveford it's more like 50/50 zinc/aluminum or close to. Basically the same stuff they make die cast toy cars out of. This crap alloy is so popular because casting it is so fast and easy. What you need is just steel mold, it's more like injection molding plastic than casting actual metal.
Made from the corrugated siding of shacks of Chinese dissidents.
I had my doubts in the beginning, Just what I figured would happen. It found the weak area and blew out. Great to see you try though. Another fun video!
As always, awesome video! JB Weld is the strongest by far. Some of those low temp aluminum brazing rods looked on Project Farm's tests. Only worth it for doing another video... not for the washer itself.
I installed a motorcycle radiator as an auxiliary in an MGB V8 conversion. The radiator had some unusual metric (or something) threads for a sensor and I couldn't find anything to fit. I JB welded a nickel over the hole and it's held for well over a decade now. Certainly not 2700 psi though!
For others watching this - DevCon makes some titanium infused epoxy which is used in a number of extreme applications - coal slurry pipes, M1 canon bores, etc. A friend used it to repair a hole in an aluminum head. I've used it to rebuild bearing surfaces.... It's really expensive but very effective....
Well now you have an engine for a new project. I replaced the pump as I needed the pressure washer but to each their own. Great video.
Another great video. That was pretty much the outcome I expected. I think you're right that, at those pressures, the crack also expands. So, you would need something super strong that bonds to the walls of the crack to hold it together. I'm not sure the even aluminum solder would do it. That would make an interesting subject for someone to explore.
Mustie- Hes a good man, and thorough.
Lotta ins, lotta outs, lotta what-have-yous
@@nitcat1 nice! Some uh...brown, rust coloration...
That Bug really tied the room together...
@@FaustoTheBoozehound they're gonna kill that poor beetle man
I’ve never had any luck with aluminum bonding to any known epoxy to man
+ public education +
...all you gotta do is STICK WITH IT(!)
I tried JB Weld on a garden hose nozzle and water still got by it.
@@Earthneedsado-over177 I've never had JB weld work on anything much at all and when it did stick it was very temporary but I tried to JB weld gas resistance formula on an old metal Gravely riding mower gas tank and it lasted maybe 20 seconds before it started leaking
We used JB Weld few times on FSAE car at the competition and then raced it.
Also I used regular JB Weld to cover pin hole in tank on a motorcycle while on a trip, ended up keeping it on for 4 years, then I sold it.
It seems JB Weld only work when You really need it, like it feels Your butt clenching.
Great effort, I’m sure most of us had our doubts with the epoxy. Even brazing is cringe factor since you won’t no if any damage to pump till your done. At this point who cares good entertainment. Thanks Mustie
Thanks Mustie1 enjoyed the attempt. Got to agree with you, new pump on a unit wouldn't bring you any return. Stay safe.
Low temp aluminum welding rod!! only need propane or mapp, even the harbor freight brand works well
I did once repair a similar washer pump with a crack. You need to fill the crack or it will just blow out again. To get the epoxy into the crack you can apply a vacuum to the inside of the pump and then spread very thin epoxy onto the crack (you will see it getting drawn into the crack). Remove the pump and let it set up and it should seal. I used a vacuum pump but you could probably just hook it to a running engine intake if you don't have one.
That is genius!
@@karlhoegle346 thank you for the information I'm going to have to try that👍👍👍👍👍💯💯💯
would this be feasible with just a shop vac? how would you go about doing this?
@@willhayden4311 yes probably shop vac would work. Woodworkers use this technique to help glue get into narrow spaces.
If you had a buddy who was good with a TIG welder (ie: free repair), I think you could likely have controlled the temperature enough that it wouldn't have melted the internals. Now that you have put the epoxy on there, I do not believe you could get the crack clean enough to successfully weld it. When welding aluminum, cleanliness is king.
Thanks for the bonus video. The repair was worth the try.
This is a really clever video. I knew it wouldn't work. But others seeing it "not work" will educate them. Stuff like this, JB Weld, and Flex Seal are good for keeping liquids from leaking out of the cracked bottoms of plastic garbage cans and other purposes where the pressure is far less.
I agree Mustie with that much pressure it’s going to be hard to get anything to stick to the pump price wise. Just wait until someone puts another one to the curb 👍
The only problem is that every pressure washer on the curb has a blown pump. Especially in the spring. Pressure washers are one of those things where it's nearly impossible to find a free working one, because the pumps are nigh impossible to repair.
Pick up electric ones! Most work, if they don’t , cut the fuse box off the cord and put a normal plug on
@@davyjones2994 Electric ones have the exact same problem. Ice killed the pump. Replacement pumps cost almost as much as a whole new unit. If you happen to need a working bare engine however a pressure washer is a good thing to scavage from, because the engine is usually ok.
Try JB Weld? Fixed a slightly smaller pressure same problem, neighbor asked if I could fix it. I think it was 2200 psi. I did basically the same prep as you did, applied JB Weld he used it the whole spring, summer , then put it in his shed for winter, spring came and it was leaking again, gave it to me because he said my fix didn’t hold. He is want mad at me he bought a new one thought I could use it for parts. I checked it it blew out at a new location because of freezing not where I repaired it. Did the new crack with JB weld. It’s been three years runs great. I store it in my heated basement for winter. Just thought you might try this fix. Enjoy your vids I learn a lot. Happy Halloween!🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡
I've seen original JB Weld work when nothing else would.
Thanks so much for trying and giving me the satisfaction of the followup video sir. I knew glue doesnt hold up under pressure but you giving it a try made me think it was gonna work anyway ;:)
12 mins in and my gut says this isn’t going to work. Great fun watching regardless!
Personally, I think it could be brazed. I'd probably try Lucas Milhaupt AL 822 rod. Tensile Strength is 20,000-30,000 lbs/in2, and has a low application temp. I've used it for repairing evap coils. Alternatively, maybe someone on eBay has a used one.
once upon a time i worked as an "impregnator". we'd take castings like this with leaks, put them in a tank of chemicals, and seal them. carbs, heads, engine blocks, pumps, all brand new and leaky straight from the factory
I spent much of my youth making sure I was never the "impregnator" - It was time well spent.
@@bobadam7021 being alone is great
@@Dennis-oq4ze it was a good conversation starter at the time. "what do you do at work?" "impregnator."
Thanks for the follow up video on the pump section.
For us poor a$$ folks the how to(or how not to) repair things like this is priceless information.
Thanks for sharing
Mike from Texas, Take Memories,Leave Footprints
Good video Mustie1. I like your humor and ability to keep us interested.
"Help me Mustie1 Kenobi, You're our only hope"
"I don't remember owing Pressure Washers before"...
Car Wars
Don't do it Reaper, Mustie1 Kenobi has the high ground !
@@Wildstar40 May the TORCH be with you.
@@DiaryofaGrimReaper,
I felt a disturbance in the Force!
Too late now, but I've had good success with JB Weld on aluminum parts, holding in pressure. That two-part Gorilla epoxy doesn't really bond to the metal for pressure applications.
I believe JB weld is impregnated with aluminum powder as well. I used it on an aluminum overflow tank for a race car. But that was only 23 Psi not 2700.
@@bobadam7021 Good question.. JB Weld has a wide variety of compounds these days. I looked at the Aluminum Weld, and it says that it has a tensile strength of 5020 PSI. But I guess it really depends on what the strength is of the bond of the compound to the existing aluminum.
@@bobadam7021 if you drill a grid with a 1/16" drillbit across the crack and around the area then use an aluminium impregnated epoxy, I bet it lasts at least 3 minutes instead of 30 seconds. It is just fun watching Mustie trying to fix the leak it doesn't really matter if it works
picked me up a nice Generac Power washer with a crack on the pump outlet. thought about 2 part mixes, and then thought about aluminum welding it, and just went with a replacement pump from amazon. the way I see it, for $79 same day delivery, i'll have a perfect working $400 power washer. well worth the 1/4 +/- the price of a new one and the one I found was less than 2 years old. Keep on keepin friends!
Glad you put this video up, it reminded me to put my pressure washer in the basement for the winter
That's what I do. And I make sure I shut off those outside faucets in the basement and open them up outside. Amazing how often people don't think of these things and end up with trouble.
That pressure washer could be turned into a 12 volt generator by installing a car alternator with some type of drive mechanism like belt, chain, friction drive or whatever can be hacked.
On the entry level pressure washers the pumps are only rated for 25 hrs service, and many fail before that. The $90 ones I've gotten online are rated at 300-500 hrs service. I have never had to replace an upgraded unit. I guess it depends on what the end user wants - to keep buying garbage sale pressure washers every couple years or fix it once and get 10 years out of it. I will say this logic gets blown out of the water when people don't properly store the units - much like how this pump was damaged.
Good video. Pot metal is hard to repair. I have used J-B weld on my Shovelhead on exhaust studs.
I actually used JB Weld to repair a large pinhole leak in a steam condensate return line. It actually held quite well for several years then one day I decided to physically check it. I gave it a couple of taps with my fingers and it fell off and the condensate started leaking again. Should have left well enough alone. Always a good video....
A very minimal metal pump, cheap crap :-(
It's a good engine though, i'm sure you will find somthing that needs a good engine :-D
It's still a win for freeeee :-D
Or buy a60.00 pump n dump it.Vertical shafts arent very useful
Shame, JB Weld has never failed me before, you should have used that instead.
I tried JB weld on a pressure washer fitting that cracked in the middle, the JB weld failed like the Gorilla glue shown here. I feel it is unlikely to work in high pressure applications such as this, although I'd still enjoy watching Mustie try it. I remember my dad even trying on his 150 psi 60 gallon shop air compressor regulator pipe. A relative tried moving the compressor by himself and cracked the pipe that connected the tank to the shut off switch (cracked at the lower threads), so my dad tried JB weld hoping for a quick fix. It only held briefly before leaking again, couldn't get it to seal with JB weld no matter how much gobbed on. I had to eventually bust off all the JB weld, break the pipe off and chisel out the remnants of the threads and install new pipe. So my experience tells me not to waste any time or money using the stuff on anything with a fair amount of pressure. That said, JB Weld is very handy for other things and I do use it depending on application.
Thanks for the explanation of why you took the route you did Mustie1. It all depends on how you look at it. For me, I would've spent the 90 bucks on a new pump as I wouldn't be selling it and would keep it. I would plan to get several years of use from it so it is worth it.
Actually this was a lot more interesting than I first thought. Thank you for doing this.
seal the opening(s) and hook an aircon vacuum pump up to it, possibly the vacuum will draw the epoxy into the crack
would this be feasible with just a shop vac? how would you do it?
First step is bake it in the oven for a while to boil out all the water- then drill and tap a couple 8-32 or 6-32 holes at each end of the crack. Make a little piece to bolt over the crack with the 6-32 screws. Now V out the crack, clean everything good and pack the area with JB weld and bolt your little piece over it- the piece will give support to the JB weld.
I was just about to say the same thing.
Thanks for a mid week video mustie; loved it!
You couldn't have prepped it any better, so that to me is definitive proof epoxy adhesives will not stand up to high pressure. Good job and thanks for saving us all time in the future.
Nice try , but use the TIG Welder for such a repair ! But Aluminum TIG welding needs the right Welder and a lot of experience !
I think the pressure being concentrated in such a small stream literally cut right through the epoxy. What if you bend a small piece of metal and put it under the epoxy to keep the pressure from touching it directly and then just glob it all over and around the metal strip?
If anybody was curious, that piece at 6.23 is a small (mostly) plastic check valve. It comes out pretty easily, it is only held in place by friction between the metal and plastic. Needle nose pliers with gentle pressure is all it takes. Behind it is an o-ring. I've taken these apart before to clean them up and put some o-ring lube on the parts, because for some reason scale likes to build up on these plastic pieces faster than it does on the metal.
Great effort Mustie ,it put that question to bed,I think even if you aluminium braised it you would have to take out a lot of material to replace it in turn damaging the capillaries of the pump,and for a machine that only costs 200 bucks not worth time to fix it unless you see another freebie to can snatch the pump off because the rest of it looks in pretty good nick,great episode roll on Sunday 👍👍
Use a dremel with a very small drill bit. Drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it from spreading. The dremel comment is correct open it up a bit enough for the epoxy to seep into the crack.
Stop drilling cracks, was standard practice while I was in the Air Force. Non critical areas only.
@@robertheinkel6225 i dont think were worried about the crack spreading.. it was caused by the ice not the pressure after all, it just needs to be sealed, digging out the crack a little to fill with epoxy will help, gorilla products arent all that imo, their original tape is good but everything after that is low quality
Other possibility would be to drill the left hand end end of the casting out and gain access that way, 'fix' it and then tap the drilled out end to take a bolt/washer to seal it.
Depending on the diameter of the internal bore you could even sleeve it and fix the sleeve with JB Weld.
None of it's worth the effort but it's fun to try.
Yip. That's a great idea. Plus put some JB weld on the bolt threads for an airtight seal. Or you could remove all the material along that crack and insert a little plate in behind with JB weld on it. That way the pressure has something to push against. and should hold. If he is not going to weld it as he explained then cutting it open and getting in behind the leak might be the only option and should work. 👍
That crap "metal" will crumble when you try to tap it. That casting is junk. The make up of that casting is junk and is designed the cheapest way possible. Its trash.
Adding a sleeve will likely increase the pressure above what the machine can handle. But the explosion would be cool.
Not terribly surprised. Fun adventure tho!!! Thanks for indulging the crowd's requests.
Waiting is for sure the best option! I say that because even if you don't find another , by then, the pump should at that point, be cheaper so win win !
I definitely don’t have the experience but I bet there has to be some welding channel that wants a collab video and a challenge that could fix it. Make a great video to.
it's not really worth the effort. even with the hole, the washer still works. the ground gets wet, but it would anyway
@@natalieisagirlnow agreed. But because this is a popular CZcams channel some CZcams welder could get a pretty good amount of views welding it back up in a collaboration video.
Brazing rod would sort it
@@natalieisagirlnow If the water is going out the bottom it means you don't have 2700 psi out the front. How much pressure is it losing? No idea. Does it matter for what he's cleaning, it might but also no idea.
Did anyone think this was going to work?
2700 PSI is a lot of pressure, I'd have tried brazing instead.
Still, enjoyed the video, thanks.
brazing = 840 degrees +. Would try a low temp Alum. WELD rod with propane melting point 730 degrees with multi heat protecting gel (heatsinks) in ports.
Pro Answers degrees what? F or C
@@simontay4851 if you knee anything about welding or brazing, then you would know that he is talking in Fahrenheit. (Not being a smart*ss)
he has a waterjet cutter now
The brazing rods will NEVER EVER WORK. The problem with the brazing rods is that what you are brazing needs to be at the melting temp of the rods. Every single seal in it would be compromised and there is a serious chance of warping the whole thing.
Just by looking at it you can tell it's the cheapest aluminum known to man.
Yup thats what happens when you dont use Briggs & Stratton 6151 Pump Saver Anti-Freeze and Lubricant Formula for Pressure Washers before winter.Seen lots of these at garage sales nd he side of the road.................FYI they cost near $400 or more new......back in the day. I know I own one.,and take care of it.Use the pump saver EVERYTIME after I use it. LOVE the videos.
John here did the same ordered the same pump when you get the new change the oil in because it's low grade oil go tractor supply not cheap but worth the cost also they say change oil after 30 to 50 hrs run time Amazon price is 90.00 rated very good and so far all summer been working fine.
Mustie: “I got three minutes to play with it!”
Me: “that’s 2 minutes and 30 seconds longer than I need according to my wife...” 🤣🤣🤣
Maybe if you had added vaccum to the System while gluing it, it might held up, having the glue in the crack instead of just on there ?!
genius
I was thinking along the same lines, or put some pressure on the glue while it's setting so that a little will get pushed into the crack (also if the glue was of the 'expanding' type then that would have formed more of an inner seal if it was first pushed into the crack, although the problem then is preventing too much getting in and creating a blockage).
Was about to say the same then read your post.
I had used some 3m product in past (some liquid adhesive )by pouring it into part and then sealing it up and applying air pressure - glue would force its way into "crack" then remove pressure drain out remaining adhesive ,then letting part set a day -wala- leak fixed!good idea Roland
Dang, and that would have helped draw out any water as well. Rig a shop vac would be simple.
Great video. You don't always have a happy ending. Good to show that.
Old mechanic trick I used to use on cracked alloy parts , brake dust from a lathe and epoxy mix. Always worked on the low pressure timing belt covers ect, not sure but worth a try
Project (mustie1) farm!
I thought it would go flying off like a wad of Bazooka gum!
How do you feel about plugging every single hole except one, hooking the remaining hole to a source of vacuum, and then pulling the epoxy into the crack with the vacuum?
would this be feasible with just a shop vac? how would you go about doing this?
THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and enjoyed.
Been doing small repairs like that for a long time. Best tool for spreading any material is a painter's spatula. They come in all shapes and can fit into everywhere. They're especially good for working out the air as you build up the repair material.
You know everyone giving him crap about not buying a new pump he wasn't kidding about finding them all the time. In the last 2 months we have found 6 pressure washers in the trash 5 gas one electric. One was a brand new 2020 with tags on it the guy ran it one time without putting the oil in it. Broke the plastic timing gear.. which cost all of $5
People really are dumb. Good find for you though!
I work at a landfill,our metal cans usually end up with about 2-4 pressure washers a week thrown in them.
I have "rescued" just about everything that has a motor on it, most things actually look brand new.
BUT you know that when you need something like that, you'll never see it! lol....that's the way it works for me most of the time hehehe
@@DILLIGAF65 How many had the manifold/pump cracked due to freezing? See, that's the thing....if you come across ones "free" that are undamaged then great but if the main issue is people forget to drain the water out of the pump and they crack, you could be looking a long time.
@@muskokamike127 We don't typically get the lower temperatures here in South Carolina like the folks up north,our mid-day temps are usually in the low 70's or high 60's so freezing pumps isn't a big concern, the one I just liberated had a broken plug, I guess with the rubber boot covering it the previous owner never thought to check it,I replaced the plug and it started on the first pull.
All I hear in my head is ‘Under Pressure’ by Queen. 😂
Me too......
After reading this comment
LOL
Damn. I've now got an earworm to get rid of.
Or "Under Pressure" by ZZ Topp.
Reading the comments before the end, please try and fix it ! It would be a shame to scrap it imo. But you are Mustie1, anything is possible. God bless 🙏🏾
High pressure water is used for cutting materials so glue would have to be really good , you’ve got to give it a try but any failure is a learning curve thanks for great vids 👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
embedding some fiberglass cloth would have increased the strength several fold.
This is what I would have tried. At least give it a fighting chance. Likely still would have failed.
Or epoxy with fiberglass strands in the mix..... is there such a product?
@@thedraac1818 If not, MAKE it. Use J.B. Weld and shards of finely cut fiberglass. Just mix it all together. You have plenty of time. Sets in 4 hours, full strength in 24 hours.
@@99goat99 adding fiberglass, is a great idea but on this type of application all it would do is strengthen the epoxy mixture itself and it wouldn't add an extra adhesive for the bond between the pump housing and the epoxy mixture,, I have tried doing this process before automotive air conditioning cooler that basically looks like a radiator and it wouldn't even bond to it except for just a couple minutes at most
Crikey! My calendar is wrong! Says Friday! Lol! ...I'll just change it now...
AW, CRUMBS- DANGERMOUSE!!!
@@daleburrell6273 EEK! WHERE?
Lol! It is Friday now ,and 16 hours ago was also Friday and that was about 5:30am Saskatchewan Canada time😃
@@wynottgivemore9274 Ireland time here! Saturday... 4am! 😴
@@sonovoxx oh good morning! Eh!.
Tried the exact same thing you did, several years ago. Lasted about the same amount of time. I'm thinking you were right about flexion. Immediate flex, immediate failure. The only other thing I can think of trying, might be babbit. It being a "soft" repair, it might withstand a little better. But, getting another out of a scrap bin is obviously easier and more logical.
Thanks for not letting us hanging! Thanks uploading this one!
i was more on brazing with aluminium rod :) and before welding you remove all the seals
yes
r
Highes pressure is when you stop the gun, and the pump doesnt go to the pressure releave.
@jason crigger sorry, im not a native speaker. Could you write it correctly, so i can learn? Thanks
Try embedding fiberglass cloth in epoxy! If the metal is flexing like you described, having material to keep it from splitting is vital.
Looks good, also cleans the concrete under the unit while you're doing the rest of the area!
A friend once covered up a hole in a muffler with a 2-part epoxy and put a filter of a cigarette butt in the mix. I asked him why and he said it just seemed like a good idea. This video reminded me of it and now I;m wondering if putting any kind of fiber/cloth/cotton mixed with the epoxy would have added any strength.
That epoxy already has metal particles in it for that reason
it would've added great strength. Maybe enough to survive.
Wow........lol
That's why I suggested Denso tape.
when you are basically making a waterjet nozzle, it will cut through no matter what you use. braze might work, if it doesn't melt the seals
nooo damnit I said weld/braze! Oh, well, Gorilla glue time!
Oh, you didn't try that amazing metal epoxy stuff, what it called, JB Weld
Good try. I use popsicle sticks squared off to apply epoxy. I have a bunch made up. Act like spatulas. I guess a plastic knife squared off would work well too.
I like your videos and curiosity to fix things.
Looks like there are LOTS of fans that want you to try the Alum Rod. Since the pump head is dead anyway, you've got nothing to lose, and everything to get us to watch. Maybe you could try to protect what you can't remove, and use a real small torch to localize the heat.
You know, if you could do this, it'd give thousands of us a way to fix our pumps.