Simple Heat/Oil Bluing Method
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Careful not to use too much heat...This process required between 600-900 degrees of heat that can draw the temper out of certain steels. Also, I would approach with caution if you considering using this method for treating your reloading dies. The process can leave light scaling on the interior of the die, so it is only recommended for parts where tolerances are unimportant. These dies are push through bullet sizer bodies, and no scaling resulted. Approach with caution and practice practice practice before trying it on a gun part. Not recommended for complete firearms, although it could be used if you are careful.
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Gunsmith and blacksmith from the UK here, colour change in steels happens around 230c blue is closer to 400c , you loose temper in most carbon steels above 200 C your propane torch will heat metal to 900 c so yes you can make steel parts loose the temper this way.Also the reason you went to far on the top of the item is because heat travels up even in a sold you should of flipped it to make the bottom the same colour . before you argue with me google temperature colour chart in steel .
try using used oil, the carbon will transfer into the steel and make the purple come out more
Great video Eric. I've used this bluing method for small parts, and if you want a blacker finish try using used motor oil instead of fresh stuff.
Looks amazing! I've done this on a restoration job only on a few screws and bolts to accent the job. I wasnt able to time it right every time though. I'm working on another now and hopefully I can find some pointers in order to achieve the desired result on demand. To any of my fellow viewers: any and all advice/pointers are welcome and appreciated. Thanks!
My friend Ralph boils old used oil in a big pan then just drops the bits into it and it does a great job. Ralph is old school he is 85 years old but still rebuilding Series Land Rovers and his steam car. Thanks for sharing.
I'm going to try this process on junk steel first to see what I can get before I try my hand on a more critical piece...this is a nice tutorial video, You're proving the old saying " If at first you don't succeed, try, try again .".Thanks Eric.
As a watchsmith, I blue my parts by heating brass filings and then placing said part into the filings for an even finish. If you try this, let me know how you go! Great channel!
I'm going to have to try that on some air hardening steel.
What temperature is required?
if a simple acetylene torch is used instead of propane, you will also be adding a higher carbon content to the steel for the added bonus of case hardening along with the coloring. I've used acetylene to case harden homemade parts before and although it isn't as thick a layer as bone/leather charcoal case hardening, it works well enough.
G'day, I use very well used diesel sump oil. Heated up to a boil in a cast pot, then the parts are set in it for the magical amount of time, and the result is a highly durable, high carbon black finish. It doesn't involve direct heat to the part and the blacker the oil the better. Kinda like we used to do to motorbike chains in the old days to shrink them a bit.
Keep those vids coming mate, cheers
Would you ever do that trick with small gun parts like the trigger, springs bolts ect????
The color is caused by oxidation. Different colors for different temperatures. Blue like this normally results in spring steel hardness. If you put the par in an oven where you could control the temperature, you can get repatable exact colors. Tom
typically, an oven wont get past brown, you'd need about 600F to get a blue
@csknives2140 what?
I know this is an older video and this comment is late, but being a tool maker I use this method especially with boiled linseed oil it gives more of a black Finish but I wipe it on with a rag rather than dunk it. The only thing I would say is on gun parts I imagine the parts would be made of high carbon steel same as what a chisel would be made of to give the gun more wear. As some of you know that when you heat treat a chisel you would quench the red hot metal then temper it off to a straw colour, so if then I wanted to ‘blue it’ I would then heat to a blue(taking past the straw colour as it’s getting hotter) and put it in oil, same as the video, this would then leave the chisel far to soft to work. So be careful on doing this on working parts of your guns. But great method for metal finish👍🏻
Nicely done and good information!
The only thing I would do differently is chuck the large punch in a drill motor so as to let it turn at a constant rate..would keep your hand from getting tired too.
This is an awesome technique. My Lee dies rust real easy this will be a good way to protect them thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for the great tutorial! Searched high and low for a simple bluing method
That's pretty cool. I like how they turned out. Don't let idiots bother you. I learned a lot of stuff from you and Ammosmith and a couple others. I appreciate your vids and what your doing.
I've tried to do this on handmade parts like triggers and hammers, I just harden the part brittle, re-polish and then draw using this method. The result is a part that has the correct hardness and a nice color at the same time
Otherwise it can only be applied to parts where temper is not critical because it's basically a drawing process.
Everybody is an expert! He plainly states that he is experimenting! Those that are so knowledgable should start their own channel. I give him credit for trying to expand his knowledge and come up with solutions and new ideas. Its a beautiful finish. Im going to experiment with it as well. Right now working on parkerizing. Would love some advice.
You could blue a barrel with heat, without harming it, because barrels are never harder than 40 RC. Sizing dies will become pretty with heat blueing, but they are functionally destroyed. Sure, you could use them to resize another 100 cases, before you throw the die away due to its now rough inside surface, making cases stick.
Rather than being upset by admonition, research the warnings about soft tempering hard tools. Then decided for yourself.
I wonder how many gun parts who have lost their hardening due to this video? The good old rust blue is so much safer, and it actually gives a good rust prevention surface. On older guns, it would also often be the correct surface treatment.
Just used this method on a couple non gun parts I made. The cosmetic surface won't be subject to wear or the elements, so I think it should last for quite a while. They look nice too
Just an fyi. any time you heat a hardened tool steel above the "blue" color you are ruining the temper. as long as the piece doesn't need to be hard, its no problem. but if its a tool, such as parts for your reloader, you have softened the piece.
I just went in the garage for an hour and did this to a handful of my tools. They literally look like I've never used them. Old ass machetes and axe heads....HERE I COME!!! Thanks man this has changed the game.
Ive done this process on a winchester 1890 pump action .22. i treated the entire gun bit by bit. i had a gas oven big enough to heat the entire barrel at once so the heat was even. I used used car oil. The carbon (black colour) in the dirty oil is also drawn in by the hot metal and aids in hardening the metal and the finish. It looks great and funtions flawlessly still.
There is a channel called Clickspring. He made a bluing box with brass shavings inside. Steel blues at about 250C I think. Heat the brass shavings to that temp, then sit the part you want blued into the box. It is a very temp and colour accurate way of getting the blue oxide finish
you typically don't start messing with the temper until about 1200 degrees, that dark blue is only about 550-600, your purple is about 500 and that straw is a little over 400 even with oil quenching the crystalline structure isn't actually being hardened to any point near brittle
really love ur tutorials here on youtube..keep up the outstanding work and THANKS!!!
You 100% lose temper. As soon as the colour starts to change that means your lessening the temper
No, it's not hot enough to harden again. I wouldn't use this method on anything other than cosmetic and parts that don't have critical tolerances. The heat can slightly warp the part. For many parts it won't be noticeable, but I wouldn't use it on a slide. For the slide you should look into caustic bluing with sodium/potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide and water. Make a solution of the chemicals with water and bring it to a boil then dunk the part. If you value your life don't do it in your wife's kitchen. But you will get superior results. That's how gun makers do it. I think it makes more of a black color than the heat and oil method.
Also, no this is actually how you would temper metal. Tempering is how you get ductility back after hardening, because hardened steel can be brittle without tempering. Hardening is when you take steel to cherry red hot and quench it. The quenching makes it so that carbides remain in solution and don't have time to turn into graphite as the metal cools.
He correct and the darker then color the softer the metal gets...i read a blacksmith book that said...straw is right temper for center punches, dark gold for chisels and blue then dark blue then purple etc.
Been curious about this. Thanks for the vid!
You most definitely are changing the temper. The different colors show the different tempers. Blue is typically spring steel hardness straw yellow is knife steel hardness.
Color does not determine temper. Not hot enough to affect temper gun parts a subject to heat regardless and made with that In mind
I was taught to use used motor.
Do most of you guys under stand you heat the part to 500-700 °F then you place it in the used motor oil.
Repeat over and over until you get the color and depth you want. Buff the part as needed between steps to get any crusty deposits off.
If you want mostly black with out too much fuss you put some copper chunks in the bottom of the pan and powdered graphite to the oil. One cup powdered graphite per gallon of oil. Powdered Graphite is used in Big Rig's and in Farm Equipment maintence.
I learned that from a small gunsmith in Germany. Dad was career Army and retired. We spent a lot of time in Europe.
My first rifle was a .22 Pellet Rifle that had been under water in the basement of a home in FLorida for a year before it was given to me. I used a combo of Belgian blueing and oil blueing to make her look like new.
I once used boiled linseed oil to cooat a trailer hit that I burnished all the rust from. I did not have anything good to keep it from rusting I was at my Grandfathers house. So after I got all the rust off I lightly warmed the metal with a torch just enough to be uncomfortable to touch not to burn me. I used a natural brush and brushed the boiled linseed oil on it. The next day I came back and took it out of the vice and put it on a shelf. The linseed oil kept it from rusting. I would never had tried linseed oil on metal if I had had something else. Not recomending linseed oil on metal either only demonstrating that sometimes desperation or lack of what we want inspires us to try new things and sometime it works out well! LOL.....When things do not work out well guess what? You know know one more way not to do something which is learning all the same. It took Edison some insane number like 10,000 or 20,000 try's to make a marketable light bulb! Someone has said that he said something like " I now know 20,000 ways not to make an incandescent light bulb!" so chin up if you do not get it write the first time!
Nice Eric. Looks great. I totally agree with you the trial and error thing.
Thanks for the video, man! I’m starting to get into metal working myself and wanted to try heat-blueing a piece of jewelry I made
That is really nice and with 18 dies I am going to have a great time with this.
Thanks so much.
Wow! real nice, I myself like to try out different finishing methods. This will surely be something to try, great vid. Thank you for your service as well!
I do screw heads like this but would never consider heat bluing parts like recievers or for that matter loading dies. You will damage the temper on parts taking them to purple or blue. Springs are taken to blue for temper and when you temper a spring your altering its state, that in its self should tell you why big bits are a no go.
Great videos by the way.
I've used this on a pair of pellet molds I forged for an air rifle, but as bladesmith I can tell you this will change temper of any tool or part that is tempered. Use caution on any critical parts that take impact, pressure or wear.
Heat travels up... if you want even result hold the part horisontaly..
THANK YOU! I'm restoring a 94 with birch wood Casey products and it's not going to well you just saved me!
I do this with all small steel pieces like screwdriver bits and shell holders. Definitely helps hold off the rust.
Great video. Do me a favor....never wear gloves while on the wheel. Keep up the good work.
And screw or clamp that grinder down. hahaha.. he was making me wince.
For a stone. yes no gloves but a wire wheel. Should have gloves. Especially if it a new wheel.
Me. id like the little wires stuck in the gloves. Not my hands
Loose clothes are the no no.
99099
Excellent video, thank you for sharing.
Great video! I love your "how to" videos
This 100% affects the temper. DO NOT this to anything structural. Also, this isn't a finish.
awesome! will give this one a try
Nice vid, in fact you have many that are great, good job! What type of oil do you use, and will different oils give you different effects?
NICE. Thanks for the video it was most interesting... & the parts really look great. Does this color hold say like cold bluing? You mentioned something about having to do this more often?
Thanks!! I’m gonna try this on an old lock!
Good info, but If you are heating steel enough to change the color then you are probably changing the temper of the heat treat.
BTW anyone that has high performance motorcycles or hot rods with say stainless steel exhaust and hangs out with others with such will notice how oft times pipes can turn so very blue ...what all plays into it I do not know but it gets pretty dramatic...(which some owners just HATE btw.).....personally I am of the "function dictates form" persuasion ...so when people are going for bizarre finishes I have to ask "WHY??" What purpose does it serve? Does it protect metal? Does it reduce glare? What is it's value? When everything has a reason and it all makes sense? THAT is true beauty! IMHO
I think it’s pretty awesome like the old receivers on the old western revolvers and rifles
Most metals is OK, but I would be really cautious doing this process with reloading dies. They are tempered, and if heated that high, you will change the temper in the die, and can also change the internal dimensions. Again, this is if the heat is on it too long. 600-900 degrees is way too hot for something that is already hardened. Regular hot bluing with bluing salts is only heated to about 260-285 degrees F.
Thanks Eric. Semper Fi
geoh7777 -- You bet that the interior temperature has gone past 400 deg F. He got the die to a blue to light grey color which is anywhere from 600-750 deg F. A die body is typically around 3/16" thick and I can guarantee that the inside wear surface went far beyond 400 deg F. Also quenching it in oil after heating to this temp will do nothing to bring back the hardness.
Paul Crissman Heat is what causes the bluing, what Eric did was nitre bluing also called fire or temper bluing all for obvious reasons. The common form of this method involves heating a pot full of nitre salts and letting the part sit in the solution for a bit. The salts don't give the metal its color but aid in consistency and make it easier to do larger parts.
Love your out Looks on life:) great vid
Thank you! Great video and valuable information! But for convenience and safety you could really bolt your grinder to your bench ^^
Your vids rock dude! keep it up.
thats purty Eric, i might try it on a little pistol i have.. thanks
the color it self *IS* the temper. so to the newbie gunsmiths out there, don't use this method on hardened pieces or high pressure barrels. I love the way this finish looks on non-critical items like 1911 frames and slides. if you do this to a semi auto or bolt guns barrel, you will get a Kaboom.
I am an apprentice toolmaker. The way i understand it is that you have to get it red hot and slow cool it to remove the hardness. Drawing a heat treated tool to 400-900 F, depending on material used, only removes the brittleness and maintains the Rockwell hardness specs.
Yes and now. It does take a little bit of the hardness but it tempers it so it is not as brittle. I personally would never use this treatment on dies because it can slightly deform the part but to each their own.
Yes and no not yes and now.
Got to have the CCT chart on the metal type for best estimated results
Not if the hardness spec was 60 RC to begin with... 40 RC, yes.
just a saftey tip. dont ever wear gloves with a bench grinder or a drill press. i have been working in fabrication for 15 years , and some of the worst accidents i have seen involved both of these machines and gloves. but i really like this channel. Thank you for youre miliitary service
Awesome man thanks again
Looks great! Going to try with my Glock tomorrow and see how it looks.
G'day, I use the dirtiest sump oil I can find, it makes for a high carbon, very dark durable finish. Thanks, Keep those vids coming!
Thank you for actually giving information and explaining everything unlike many other dumbass videos. It's tiring having to weed through so much nonsense and half-assed videos to find something where it is explained. Very much appreciated!👍🙏
The gloves are for hand perfection, Good job ,keep working! PEACE
I truly enjoy your videos both you and DR. Barry. I was just wondering, does this process work on stainless steel or only carbon steel? Keep up the good work. Your videos are excellent!
WOW. This is awesome. Thank you for the tips!
Beautiful outcome. You saved my ass
the temper will drop a bit purple/blue will make it about 40hrc but its not lie its a knife or a sear/tigger so it should not matter much
I made a new firing pin stop for my 1911 a while back. Blued it using heat from my gas stove and just dropped oil over it in a mason jar lid.
Keep up the good work.
very cool! I hope i get to try this.
I enjoy watching your videos which I find very informative.
We learn and grow through trial and error we evolve and we have to admit our failure and accomplishments
If you don’t learn and grow from a negative experience then we should go back to our caves.
But it helps to listen to others opions
Good work Guys, great videos, good information and gut instincts which mean so much and ya
you guys should do more comedy and more sarcasm.
I gotsta go am late fo a drive bi and then to da licka stow “liquor store”
You have enemies? Good.
That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life
― Winston Churchill
I usually just stuck my parts in the toaster on it's highest setting for like 30 minutes. Gets a nice, consistent, VERY deep blue/purple.
damn that looks nice, i wanted to purchase a game arcade shaft joystick that was steel but they can do the process of bluing it and i wanted to see a video which the bluing process was done and i'm lovin this blu life. just gorgeous
I would do some research on heat treating, quenching and tempering before I did this to a gun part.
I do a lot of oil bluing on a variate of parts. However I don't claim to be an expert in metal finishing. It's really handy for small parts like screws hammers, triggers, front and rear sights, plates, all kinds of smaller items.
A kiln is really great if you have one. It gives you an even temperature environment which will help you get that color exactly the way you want it. using a torch can cause temperature spots to show up on your piece depending on the shape, size, thickness of the steel part. Thinner pieces like butt plates loose heat much quicker than say a steel bolt and are easier to "mess up" so to speak. DUNK EM QUICK. To be honest I like the uneven blues and purples look just as much as the even blue or purple look. Just a personal preference.
Using a pair of pliers or a vice can also draw away heat from the piece you're trying to oil blue wich can also cause temperature spots. It takes some trial and error to get it just the way you like as with anything. Thank god for wire wheels..
WOW!!! keep up the good work.
Quit knocking yourself. In working in the unknown or unfamiliar there are no "mistakes" ,you learn what to do or what not to do the next time one does it.
Keep experimenting ,you are learning and so are we..
Nice work 👍🏻👍🏻
Very cool video !
really nice video, i appreciate the effort. let me ask, have you tried the method of dipping the item into a bath of heated oil?. i have had a few pieces made with this method and they have aged very well. also what mix of oil do you use? do you use new oil or used filtered sump oil? do you also make use of diesel fuel/oil mix for a different finish?
Gloves! DON'T wear gloves unless you want to watch your entire hand going round and round! Things won't be blue, they will be red, with loud screaming.
I don't understand, what's wrong with wearing gloves? I think I'm being silly, but can you explain?
+Just another random person on the internet! They can get tapped in the wheel and there goes your hand
MyLonewolf25 Ah, I see. Ok.
Same with his ring he is still wearing.
A wire wheel won't snag those style gloves, And I could stall one of those dept. store bench grinders with my cock.
Eric, what a SWEET process this is!
Let me find some gun parts.. LOL
Do you plan on making any other videos about this kind of blueing?
I've actually done this (as by accident actually) and it's all in your flame - you just need a larger flame with the same heat and then it's easier to have a uniform color. like you said, it's all trial and error. Great vid - this topic has been long over due. I think introducing folks to making their own bluing salts is good. I mean, it's just Saltpeter and Lye, right? I need to look into it more.
you probably have found this out by now, but either heat your part parallel with the ground or if your going to do it as such start towards the bottom of the piece, and pull away from the heat intermittently let the part normalize its temperature or else when as your heating a different section the top is still getting hotter and your losing the color you wanted
I have had good results with used car engine oil. Maybe the extra carbon in it adding to the colour. Gives a real nice colour. I quench outdoors in the wind to make sure upwind of the smoke!
Blue up a couple of lag bolts and screw that darn grinder into the bench.
"This is not an easy process"
"You can see the ease in which I did this"
OK
Lol yeah, the first scene he uses it it walks on him. Second scene he only worked one handed cause the other was holding down the grinder!
Don't do this to precision parts! Heat bluing with an oil quench is good for cosmetics but it should not be done to precision parts or parts with critical hardness or tempering.
Very interesting, Good Job
I've used a similar method on carbon steel swords after heating and hammering to repair (and sharpening or honing), I will heat the blade up and then spray it with WD-40. WD-40 gives it a more iridescent-black shade. I don't use aerosol WD-40, I buy the large can and put it in a spray bottle to mist it on.
I would also like to experiment with the same oil used on K&N air filters. After cleaning the air filter, an oil is sprayed on to help the cotton pickup dirt. That oil contains unique chemistry and also dye. How would that react to blueing? I want to find out.
Keep in mind, when blueing anything, it is possible to the object can ignite a fire when the oil hits it. Also, it can warp if it is too hot and thin, or the oil is too cold.
Yugo 505 did you ever try oil bluing with the KN oil?
hey great work man I make custom knifes and I had a customer want a solid black sword slash ax and I discovered through trial and error that u can make it solid black by using burnt oil mixed with new oil bout 75 to 25 and it made it made it black idk if anyone else has done that or that you may know that but it works just let it sit in the oil bath till u figure it has cooled down to a reasonable temp also I had to heat my oil first for the case hardening so just putting that out there
I think it's going to be fine I have a 1919 colt police positive 38 I'm going to be doing this way
if you used light heating, not so much that it turns the steel a color, and dipped it in gun blue solution, you'll get a better result.
I tried everything to get better groups, I heat blued my dies and BAM ! sub 1/4 MOA !
Good vid thx seems like you could almost do some kind of case hardened finish that way?
Beautiful
That's beautiful! Does it work with used oil?
Eric, I miss these videos brother! How did the finish last man? Still have the dies?
I think I may try this on a SxS I have been working on and needs some bluing.
And the blue was the draw heat which gives the blue color