Black Oxide Coating Parts For Your Own Projects
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- čas přidán 30. 11. 2020
- Did you ever want to restore your own hardware or parts but hate using paint and want a more professional look? See how I do it with this simple DIY kit from Caswell Plating. The oil based sealant is supplied with the Caswell kit.
Link for kits: caswellplating.com/black-oxid...
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disclaimer:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between GearBoxVideo (Paul Cangialosi) and you. Every situation may be different, and GearBoxVideo does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. GearBoxVideo and any sponsors or manufacturers of parts that may appear in this video or any of the channel's content will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk.
Some people think this is a paid promotion. THIS IS NOT A PAID PROMOTION. This is a product I found on the internet and decided to give it a try. So what you are seeing is my first time using it. I've reordered it several times and trust me have paid each time. My video is unbiased. Discussion about the product and your results using different techniques are welcome. We are all here to learn from one another. Any rudeness will get your comments removed and blocked. THE OIL BASED SEALANT IS PROVIDED BY CASWELL. THIS IS A COLD APPLICATION. THIS IS DIFFERENT THAN A HOT APPLICATION. SinCe this video has become popular and comments and questions are constantly repeated... PLEASE READ BELOW
MASK USE WAS DURING MASK MANDATES A OVER A YEAR AGO --- LOOK AT THE PUBLISH DATE.
There are two general types of blackening for iron and steel: hot blackening and room temperature
blackening (or cold blackening).1 Hot blackening can be done from generic mixtures of caustic soda, sodium nitrite / nitrate,
wetting agents and stabilizers or from proprietary mixtures.The result of the process is a dark black iron oxide finish with
both good durability and corrosion resistance.The hot blackening process however, uses toxic
chemicals and operates at about 140°C (284°F) for 45 min. Working at temperatures well above the boiling point of
water leads to major problems, particularly when replacement water is introduced. Hot blackening is a polluting,
energy consuming and time consuming process.In order to reduce the hazards of hot blackening, and
to save energy, proprietary cold blackening solutions have been developed.2 They are operated at room temperature,
and are based on different chemistries, so they are substantially less hazardous. Further, room temperature blackening
processes are simple and safe to operate. They are becoming more and more attractive. On the other hand, room
temperature blackening is not a true black oxide process.Rather it involves the application of a copper-selenium
compound. This compound is not always an acceptable substitute for black oxide, as it does not look as durable
as the one obtained with a hot blackening process. However it works fairly well for low budget and certain applications.
Parts that I make in quanities over 100 items get hot blackened by professional companies set up do to these processes and deal with the harsh chemicals.
Caswell is very well known for plating.
Appreciate you sharing your experience. Very useful technique which I’d heard of but not seen demonstrated.
How about a follow up video with a scratch test? Is the finished product easy to scratch?
Terimakasih atas ilmu nya 👍
Well said.
I worked in a research and development fabrication shop back in the seventies and we used to blacken our parts. We always heated our parts before we put them in the solution. They always darkened evenly and quickly we took them out and neutralized them dried them in immediately sprayed them with oil. We never had any complaints from anybody. I mostly work with copper and zinc now so I love playing with the chemicals.
How hot did you heat them up to?
With heat & dipping is professional method 👍
Glad to see you back. Always enjoy your videos! 👍
So glad you are back on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I love this channel, it's so refreshing to see authentic people like Paul on CZcams who know their stuff and love what they do.
My thoughts exactly!
Reminds me of a Hurst Shifter of the late 60s to mid 70s. I was expecting gun parts but shifter remind me of good times...lol! I will be trying the products and thank you for sharing.
Terrific teacher! Engaging, complete and very useful. Thanks, man.
I didn't know this process could be done at home. Thank you for posting it. it will come in handy.
Paul,
Great to see all is well. Glad to see you are back on CZcams.
Stay Real.
I love Caswell’s products. They’re about an hour from me and are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to polishing, plating, etc. They’ve been in business for a long time and it’s easy to actually get a person on the phone for help. A real company, with real people, selling & shipping real products from Lyons, NY.
Their customer service and questions have always been answered
Great video! Well articulated, smoothly flowing, and concise. This is my first time here, and I'm sure I'll be back. Thanks!
Quality, quality work Paul that stuff puts a real professional finish to the completed job.
Another great video. I just ordered one of your how to manuals this morning from Amazon. I can't wait to read it cover to cover and tear my mustang transmission apart this summer and rebuild it. Thanks for all the information and tips.
Great video Paul, I use the exact same chemicals when I'm restoring old carburetors with steel bases it's held up well. If you want a slightly glossier finish seal with WD-40.
Great vids! I appreciate the time and effort spent in making these for the benefit of many viewers you are handing on your honed skills to many DIYS and younger people. I wish these tutorials were around when I was young it would have saved me years learning the hard way. You have a rare natural talent for teaching and getting the message across clearly with sincere thanks Alan Australia
That is just terrific! I am definitely going to give this a try! Thanks so much for posting this video.
NICE! I stumbled across this video. By chance, I am presently already in the process of ordering a comprehensive Caswell setup for unrelated projects.
The cross contamination was driving me crazy ,but you pulled it off in the end.
Subscribed
I bake my parts before sandblasting to burn off oils so they don't get in my sand. I use a weed burner propane torch and turn it down until there is no blue flame hitting the parts. I put the parts on top of a piece of steel box tube to keep them off the concrete and keep them heated until they start to smoke. Keep them at about that temp until there is no more smoke. Sand blast and continue with your coating of choice.
I just tried this for the first time today and will be using this all the time. I even inserted the bolt into the threads, removed and checked. Its very durable.
I just wanted to to say THANK YOU for taking the time and the grief, in order to provide us with FREE process' that one normally would be looking to pay for. As I am sure you already know........there are a LOT of people out there with fast fingers and slow thinkers!
HOW TRUE!
Great video!
Thanks.
One could use a metal minnow bucket for the sealer too. It also has a strainer.
About the same price as yours though.. but I happen to have one that I don't use so free for me. 😁
Great video! I use cold blue-type processes for gun parts. I’ve been reading about these kits and want to try one out. You might be interested in a company called EPI. They have similar products for black oxide finishes (room temp, mid temp, and high temp). They have a few other product options you may find useful for some of those hardened parts. Thanks again for the great demo.
Great video! This product is exactly what I've been looking for! Excellent explanation of coloring process and tips about cross contamination of the process liquids! Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge! 👍
Hey Paul great tutorial, OMG this is soooo easy to do. I never knew it was this easy, thank you.
Great video. If I may add. I do restoration on old guns. You can get a bluing paste that works fantastic and you can just use a few paper towels to wipe it down. Good job on this video. Very educational. Keeper going!
I tried the blueing stuff on some chisels I've been restoring like the look alot.
Looks good. Going forward, after degreasing you may try heating the parts in an oven to ‘gas out’ any remaining oils. If oil surfaces, degrease and repeat heating. I think at a temp of 315 - 350 F?
Another great video man! Love the old school shifters and all the info you've had on 4 speeds!
This is the type of uncle I would expect staying near the next block, where I can visit and assist everyday 😊🍀
free knowledge... craftsmen giving up their time and knowledge to help those that will listen
thank you Paul!!!!
will be doing this on my truck for sure now that i know how to, btw your website has an order :)
Thank you
In the past I used Caswell's nickle plating kits for small parts, and it worked well. Just like you experienced, cleanliness and oddities in the base metal can affect the results. Thanks for the video. I've been considering the black oxide kits, but was hoping to see someone else's results first. Those parts looked great!
Thanks for watching
Man good too see you back! Great video I've used caswell for years.
Dr Paul strikes again - great vid! Nice to see you branching out to other topics. Your genuine, true to life vids are refreshing compared to overproduced and edited ones which would have removed the imperfection and explanation thereof which most of us could encounter in real life. Luv this guy; with his book, parts and vids; I was able to rebuild my first 4 speed and get my 2nd gen Z back on the road which was a bright spot in a blah year. My 17 year old daughter was disappointed when she heard I was ready to put an auto in it due to several crashbox failures. She runs it like a champ now, and is proud of driving a stick car!
You're back!! Greetings from Germany!!!
Yes I am!
Thanks a lot. It was really helpful.
Been working on cars and bikes forever now (47yr old) and this was something I’ve heard of but never seen applied thank you I’m gonna try this
Thanks for watching
Absolute talent yields Absolutely amazing results. Thank you for sharing your experience and talent.
Always pre-clean before blasting clean again prior to using a scuff pad or sandpaper then clean again. Reason for the multiple cleaning is when you blast without cleaning & or sanding/scuffing you are putting oils into the pits or scratches of the metal. Wipe dry if need to after using parts brake cleaner. Try using a oil silicone remover that’s used in auto painting.
Use a commercial degreaser scrub with a soft metal brush, rinse and scrub with distilled water, then steam clean (use distilled water in steamer) and dry in a convection oven at 225°F (toaster oven for smaller parts) for 20-30 minutes depending on part size and mass, up to 60 minutes or 275° at 20-40 minutes and let them cool in the oven, any impregnated oils or contaminants will form a dry scale,rinse with steam or distilled water, scrub them off with a clean non scratching scouring pad and distilled water (green scotch-brite pad for steel) and dry with a fresh paper towel.
Great video, will have to try that out.Thanks for taking the time to do these videos for us.
Very informative and thorough! Thanks. It just popped into my feed and a worthwhile watch.
Hi Paul
Built a few Transmissions with your expertise and parts. I restore Carburetors. I do the plating and Dichromate conversion. I use the black oxide for screws cast iron bases. I use to manganese phosphate but the black oxide is no heat so it makes it quicker. You can buy the chemical from EPI. That is were Caswell buys it from. I use Insta black 333 and E tech 501 oil. They have a new product insta black 335 which I am going to try. I buy gallon qty. It is cheaper than buying from caswell.
Thanks for the tip
I owned a black oxide processing company for over 15 years I used hot black oxide process. One thing I like to correct you is your doing a controlled rusting process. If your not keep oil on your parts they will rust (iron oxide red rust).out in the industry there are a couple of things that can be used to stop this red oxide one being oil and the other is a wax type sealant. I used water soulable oil in my five tank process. My chemicals I used were from Heatbath corporation
My process was as follows Uniclean 1008 degreaser at 195 degrees then ambient water rinse then Pentrate ultra (black oxide ) chemical at 285 degrees then another ambient water rinse and finally water soluble oil ant 100 degrees.
I've been using Penatrol as a sealant and now do it in a crock pot! Seems to work really well.
Mak Tool, how long in each process were the parts kept?
@@JWB671 the degreasing process generally only 5 minutes mostly just removing tapping oil and any oil left on material rinse not very long maybe a minute then the black oxide was if chemicals were up to concentration and a nice rolling boil you could be in tank for 5 minutes sometimes longer depending on the material then rinse for about 2 to 4 minutes and just dip in oil and pull out and drain
Water soluble oil?
What oil would that be :) trying to learn thanks
@@g040700 there are oils available that when mixed with water they turn milky white when metal is dipped in the fluid and pulled out the water evaporates and leaves a oil film I ran my dip tank at 125 degrees so when parts came out the water would evaporate quicker I hope I have helped
I watch youtube almost exclusively - lots of DIY. You, sir, are brilliant at these videos. Almost every word that comes out of your mouth is useful while making it look casual. I hope you make more and push out these of DIY yakkidy-yaks who are clueless half the time. I believe I know exactly how to black-oxide parts the best way possible for a DIYer after watching.
Thank you
Nice vid. I’m glad you said something about the cross contamination. Sometimes a video set up isn’t for best results, but ya got to get the shot!
I've done it with straight Muratic Acid using water only for rinsing.
Caswell plating is a great company. They also make the best gas tank sealer.
Great video explaining the process you used, nice results. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. And yes I read the description and the pinned comment, also liked and subscribed.
Thanks for the information. I do a lot of little restoration jobs and this may save me some time.
This is a great video for our products. Very impressed! Thank you
Thank you. Glad you liked it. CZcams features it often.
I learned a lot from you with this video. You explained it all very thoroughly thank you for making it. I'm going to give it a try now.
I was getting ready to comment on your questionable technique, but glad I waited to end and saw that you caught it yourself and made mention of your bad practice of not lining up your tanks in the order they are used , minimizing dripping sealer into oxidizing solution and visa versa .also cross contamination via dipping gloves hands in solution. Very interesting and useful video. Glad I caught it.
Thank you for watching the video completely. The biggest problem with comments is people not watching videos to the end and jumping to conclusions. Also people not reading the initial pinned comment. This video got a great deal of views but according to stats few people watch it to the end
@@GearBoxVideo There's no initial pinned comment on this video.
Thank you . I’m glad to find your channel.
Nice, Paul!! I really appreciate the knowledge you share! Thank you 😊
"Cold Black" is different from hot dipped "Blacken" process. I've been blackening parts for nearly 50 years in a hot dip process and it is much more durable. This process will do for a quick finish but will rub off if handled. For a hot dip process on ferrous steel you must reach 290 degrees fahrenheit and seal in oil. The key ingredient is sodium hydroxide (lye). The vendor I use is Maxim Oil in Dallas and the manufacturer is Heatbath (Superblack 290). I don't blame anyone doing this technique and it is good enough for some uses but for a full-on professional finish there is nothing like a hot dipped process. Also, there is no way stainless will blacken fully. Why would it be necessary? Stainless will not rust or oxidize so why bother?
Hey David,what kind of process they use on guns? hot dip also? when you buy a gun, mainly a revolver thats black it has that really thick nice shinny coating that never comes off,i was wondering what that was? thank you for your input.
Did you take the time to read my pinned comment?
Exactly my point in my pinned comment. I'm getting all these comments about hot methods being better, not true blackening etc.
I do agree with everyone about the differences and am well aware of them. People just don't read the comments so the same questions get asked and I have limited time and cannot keep answering the same questions over and over because someone is to lazy to read. Usually parts that we have 500 to 5000 pieces made we have done by companies that handle those volumes. However on 1 off or small rebuild projects that is not possible. The video has got an amazing amount of views in 1 Year. Fact is I've done quite a few shifters in that year and have worked out a better system using a small crock pot for a warmer solution and rinsing and drying then 4 hours in sealant. Great long lasting results.
@@Rattletrap-xs8il the Caswell product uses Selenium in their formula.
@@ScottAuch I don't use Caswell's bluing. But I do Use some of their plating. As I said, the Selenium process is not a resilient bluing method.
Hey mate I’m a new subscriber thanks for a fantastic basic not to complicated video really liked watching it several times . What sort of sealant did you use was it from Caswell ? .
Do you think you can use aluminium with this black oxide process ?
Sealant from Caswell. Will not work with aluminum
I remember you rebuilding a standard transmission for Eric the carguy. Awesome
Thank you for showing all of us
For best results DO NOT use brake cleaner to clean your parts. Use a water based degreaser such as Caswell SP Degreaser. Follow directions. Spotting and shading will be greatly reduced/eliminated. Glass bead blast parts whenever possible. Generally, the softer the steel, the better the results. Caswell now has a primer for hardened parts that I am currently testing. Best regards!
Good advice. Read the pinned comment. I have zero issues with my later jobs. Brake cleaner IS NOT the primary degreaser. I've since been heating the solution to 120F and the hardened parts seem to take fine.
I use a charcoal grill to heat treat metal parts red hot then quench them in used motor oil. It turns them black with an oily coating making them rust proof.
Same here
I've done that too. Discovered it by accident when I wanted to cool down a part I wanted to cool down faster. I did t have any water handy but I had a bucket of old motor oil. I was amazed with the result.
Probably not a good idea to do this with hardened steel, though.
@@Lykoloo Yeah there's a lot of people in here that don't understand temper.
Looks great. I need this process for some projects too. Thanks.
I’m liking that quite a bit thank you I’m going to refinish a bunch of parts with that black oxide thank you!!
The black oxide concentrate looks like a copper sulfate solution.
On an aside we used to blacken metal with a torch and some old drain oil.
that is oil bluing or hot bluing this is more of a cold blue
Interesting , I watched this to compare with the black oxide I used to do back in 1976 when I worked at a metal plating company . I was in charge of Black oxide and a few semi exotic plating's . When I ran parts we used titanium hooks , racks or baskets to hold parts for most plating and we did several different plating types . The actual corrosive salt and water for black oxide was kept at 280F degrees but with the salt it raises the boiling temperature such that 280 isn't actually boiling , close but not quite . then it goes straight into the penetrating oil while it's still hot . The prep work is a bit different but anything that removes rust and any contaminates is good , as a plating shop we had things like electro cleaners , ultrasonic cleaners , bead blasters (aka vapor hones) , 5% Muriatic acid bath (great for removing rust) and others acids and cleaners depending on the material being plated . I wonder how well the plating you demonstrated in this video compares to the results with the hot salt method .
What I now do is use a crock pot. And let it boil in the crock pot, dry and then into the oil. Works much better. Parts come out great.
@@GearBoxVideo What is the chemical makeup of that solution if I can ask ? I have a product that converts rust using Chlorobenzotrifloride as it's active ingredient and it is similar in that it locks oxygen away from the raw metal . Just curious after I left metal plating I went into aerospace manufacturing which gave me a somewhat unique position as a machinist knowing how plating of all sorts works . Fun stuff but glad I left that industry as it can shorten your lifespan a bit if you do it for a living .
Please read my pinned comment. I have no idea since it was purchased from Caswell. Despite the endless banter here about what is better or not it works quite well with no rust issues. We use it on shifters which are exposed to the elements
@@GearBoxVideo Ok I just read the chemicals involved , it's an interesting solution and I can see how they are able to call it black oxide even though it's a very different process than what I know as such . Seems pretty legit though and better than other solutions people could try , the only better way to go is use a material that doesn't corrode . The old way of Black Oxide probably has better wear properties although it's really hard to say for sure but otherwise I see nothing wrong with it , good thing to keep in the back of my mind that I can do at my own house (outside preferably) without dealing with a plater that wants to charge a minimum fee of at least a hundred or more depending on the shop . I'm retired these days so I don't have access to plating shops like I used to , a few years ago I could get almost anything done for me personally for free but I had close ties to the owner of a plating shop back then , now I live almost two thousand miles from there .
I use it for a few items at a time. I make a great deal of parts. Some in the 5000 to 15000 quantity. Those larger quantities I send out to get done.
Excellent explanation & showing of the product. Thanks for sharing it.
Cheers😊
Nice work. Your end product looks good & professional. A small insignificant point is that while cast iron has pores, steel does not.
Probably a dumb question: Would this product work - in the sense of over the top of - a traditional "cold" gun bluing (Birchwood Casey Super Blue)? Or would you have to kill / acid strip the old bluing and repolish all the metal?
You would have to ask Caswell. They are pretty good with phone tech questions
What is the "sealer" being used?
This video was very impressive and helpful. The options for anyone willing to do the job themselves is really great and convenient, but with an initial investment. Thank you for putting this out and demonstrating how this works! 👍
This video was excellent. I actually learned something.
Thank you.👍👍
How abrasion resistant is the coating? Would have been nice to see on the parts you were going to re-sandblast. On the prep, wondering if soaking in acetone for 15 minutes, then sandblasting with clean and oil free media, then degassing the metal at 250 deg F. for 30 minutes to remove all oils from within the metal would have produced better results on the brackets.
Blast using new/clean media. Re-used media is fine most of the time
After sanding or sand blasting, acid wash parts to clean out pores of the metal of to free them of microscopic dust and oils. I use distilled water with 5-10% muriatic. Rinse well with just distilled water. Dry parts off first with air blast (only if your compressor blows clean dry air) then with heat gun or put in an oven. Getting it perfectly clean and keeping it perfectly clean will produce the best results. It's very important to not touch the metal with your fingers between steps or let the parts come in contact with anything that might contaminate the surface. While parts are dry and still warm proceed to putting parts in to the black oxide solution.
I have tried Caswell Black oxide product It does produce a nice finish quickly BUT It does not produce a lasting finish unless the Protective sealant dip is repeatedly reapplied forever if you don't parts start flash rusting. Also that little bottle doesn't do very many parts before its spent and you need more.
My advice AVOID Caswell Cold Black Oxide coatings!
I am curious to who you used that was doing a True HOT Black Oxide coatings.
I have looked into doing in myself but It takes some specialized equipment and the Temps are 350 or so.
I have had good luck with Baking parts to 400-450 and then dipping them in used Motor oil.
I have mainly been doing Cadmium plating, Copper and Nickle for most all my stuff any more
I enjoy your Transmission videos and have purchased one of your books.
As always,very informative. Welcome back.
Thank you kindly!
Love your videos! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
What sealant are you using ?
What do you use for the sealant
This is way better than the process of Parkerizing
Thank you for posting, very straight forward and clearly explained.
What are you using as a sealant
What kind of sealant is that?
Tip Top video my friend!
Thanks for the demonstration
Thank you for this simple and helpful video.
Also, stick with the Caswell oil that comes with the kit. Cold blackening can be ruined by some strong petroleum distillates. I used oil from my hot black system and had to refinish all my cold blackened parts. Remember, cold black is not a true replacement for hot black.
wash parts in acid first to clean out the pores of the metal
Great video. Thanks for the information. We have a project that may require black metal parts. Coming from a true beginner on Black oxide processes this may be the path we take. Thank you again.
Love your videos! They're always informative and thanks for oxide kit info!
You are so welcome!
what is the sealant?
black oxide concentrate = selenium dioxide the active ingredient in dandruff shampoo
Great video, Paul. I actually ordered a kit from them. The pricing is really good especially given the amount they give you. Fantastic video as always, appreciate your practical, no-nonsense approach!
Fantastic video. I learned a lot and will use this in the future!
Man this is dated two months old, never got notifications, you tube you suck! Thanks for the tutorial.
Make sure you use the notification bell and subscribe. Thank you
I wonder if baking the parts for a bit would help push the oils out like when ya cerakote items..they say to clean them then heat them up then clean again.. I guess it pushes the remaining oils out . Never personally done it but might be worth a try
I have done that as well after being so frustrated, thinking I would sweat out whatever was in the metal, I worked in a steel mill for years that we melted down recycled metal , evertr on the planet , who knows what oily bit could be hiding in a tiny spot , sometimes that's what I think but just don't know.
I used to use the brakleen to, then used electronics cleaner which was better, then went to dawn and warm water and a brush, dry with clean cloth...
All my issues went away when doing dips.
I had a rusty vin plate , after cleaning it I soak it in engine oil and left it in the oven for about 20 minutes , it came out like new with shiny black coating.
Great stuff Paul. Always look forward to your vids.
Glad you like them!
Kwel sharing!! Wouldn’t mind doing some myself.. thank you for sharing
Paul, measure the chemical first then use the water to remove the chemical from the measuring cup as you measure out the water ! This is not like diluting H2SO4 where you MUST add acid to water never water to acid.
Makes sense. Thanks for the tip
Blast with aluminum oxide 180 grit. Don't touch the parts with bare hands (wear rubber gloves). A proper water break test consists of dipping the clean part in water and then looking for the water to break off of the dirty areas. I've been in the plating industry (including conversion coatings like black oxide) for almost 20 years. What I described is standard practice at coating facilities.
Thank you for sharing
When you dip the part in water, doesn't it start to rust or do you have some treatment for that? Or does it not matter about a little surface rust when dipping in the black oxide solution? I have sanded parts before and a few hours later, you can see tiny dots of rust starting to form. I'm in South Florida and the humidity is all it takes. I've got a project I'm thinking of doing this to so I'm doing the research now so when I get to that stage, I don't screw things up.
@@rogermccaslin5963 it's not for a long period of time. You can literally dip them in and out and then check for water breaks. If it's still water wet after 30 seconds or so it's clean.
@@N.Cognito
I get the part about the water tension cleanliness check. I was just wondering about it possibly starting to rust. I guess if you water check and then dry (or at least shake off) and process through the chem bath in a short period of time, you won't have to worry about rust.
@@rogermccaslin5963 no need to dry. Perform the water break test, when your happy with the results simply put the part in the solution. Keep in mind you should only start the test when your ready to process the parts. As long as the parts stay wet they shouldn't rust in the short timeframe between starting the test and processing.
Great video. This process looks a lot easier and less time consuming than I thought it would be.
It really is!
Great episode - that Caswell product works well and their Zinc product work also. Passivation liquids Blue for Bright Zinc.
What does he use as “sealant”
The Caldwell site sells the sealant with the kit.
What is the sealant you're using?
Part of the kit, my brother...