Nice work! I keep looking at this climb but the first 20 foot section sends me packing! I hear that you can protect the first part with a #4 cam in the pod, but I don't want to learn the hard way and break a leg! Pro looks so good thereafter...
@michael if you do the step across start, which I believe is the original beta, it's pretty chill. That bottom section looks burlier than it climbs. From the pod, you can casually place a couple bomber pieces before pulling into the crack. I don't think this one is any harder than the other 5.7's in the park if you have decent crack technique. What have ya been climbing?
@@KlaasicAdventure I was in J-Tree last week and led White Lightning, Mike's Books, SW Corner of Headstone, Dance Rehearsal, and Toe Jam. I'll be back at Tahquitz when the snow melts away -- I just love it there, but JT is incredible as well. Thanks for the support -- I should climb up to the step off to suss it out. My fear is falling before the pod and breaking a leg! I would feel super confident once a ground fall was off the table! Maybe next time I'll give it a go!
@@mls01981 I had a gut feeling you were going to say White Lightning! For sure, if you led White Lightning, you'll be good to go on Double Cross. I felt the start of White Lightning was more difficult than pulling into the crack on Double Cross. The climbing into the pod on Double Cross is easy - just run-out. The good thing is, once you're in the pod, you can casually place two bomber pieces with a no hands rest. Then, if you were to blow it pulling into the crack, you're luckily already 20ft up! Let me know if you end up doing it. The view from the belay is pretty awesome for a sunset session. I've only climbed a few of the moderates at Tahquitz / Suicide (Trough, Fingertip, Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn, Open Book, Sundance, Serpentine). I'm sure you've been on a few of these as well. I absolutely loved P2 of Coffin Nail. The horn of course is classic. Open Book is stellar (followed that one). I felt like Tommy Caldwell on the Sundance slab. The traverse on P2 was probably some of the most fluid climbing I've ever done. Super focused - no fall slab mindset. Good times! Here is my tick-list in case you find yourself looking for ideas in J-Tree. www.mountainproject.com/user/112058049/bob-klaasic/ticks If you have any favorites, send em' my way. I'm always looking for route inspiration!
Those Black Diamond crack gloves are freaking awesome. It’s almost like cheating. Doesn’t look like you needed them, you jamming technique looks solid.
I haven't tried the BD gloves yet. I do have some Ocun's that I use on sandstone or "grittier" cracks. (I generally only tape up in Indian Creek). Gloves are just more convenient. So, I'll have to give those BD ones a try. Thanks for the good word!
Did it with Hex's back in 1981 wearing EB's and Athletic Tape with an A-16 stuff sack modified as a chalk bag. 1" Tape runners and 50gr oval biners. Some fixed pins also.
Yeah, 3" cams are useful on this one. When I filmed this, I didn't bring anything bigger than #2. But, having 3" cams makes it much safer. Personally, I don't think there are many places for a 4" cam. The crack is mostly 1-3" and the upper chimney has small placements. But, it never hurts to bring extra pro just in case! Thanks for the comment!
I'm still up there @Malcom! Bring the helicopter! Just kidding. There are fixed steel rings on the anchor. You can kinda see them at 10:39. You just pass the end of your rope through these rings and toss the rope down. From there, you just do a traditional rappel. One of my other videos shows this process in case you're curious! Link: czcams.com/video/m1WT3h9lpZE/video.html
Thanks for the beta, most definitely gonna give this a romp. Keep on sending brother.
Right on Ricardo. It's a fun one! Let me know how it goes! Yew!
That looked super mellow and awesome! The aggresive hand jams at the beginning scared me a bit lol
Haha. Yeah, pulling into the crack section is always a bit physical; even more so when it's a hot day! But, it makes for some good suspense. 😂
Consider a multidirectional first piece as opposed to a nut to prevent a zipper if you fell or took.
came here to say the same thing. felt relieved when he pulled out that z4
Nice work! I keep looking at this climb but the first 20 foot section sends me packing! I hear that you can protect the first part with a #4 cam in the pod, but I don't want to learn the hard way and break a leg! Pro looks so good thereafter...
@michael if you do the step across start, which I believe is the original beta, it's pretty chill. That bottom section looks burlier than it climbs. From the pod, you can casually place a couple bomber pieces before pulling into the crack. I don't think this one is any harder than the other 5.7's in the park if you have decent crack technique.
What have ya been climbing?
@@KlaasicAdventure I was in J-Tree last week and led White Lightning, Mike's Books, SW Corner of Headstone, Dance Rehearsal, and Toe Jam. I'll be back at Tahquitz when the snow melts away -- I just love it there, but JT is incredible as well.
Thanks for the support -- I should climb up to the step off to suss it out. My fear is falling before the pod and breaking a leg! I would feel super confident once a ground fall was off the table! Maybe next time I'll give it a go!
@@mls01981 I had a gut feeling you were going to say White Lightning! For sure, if you led White Lightning, you'll be good to go on Double Cross. I felt the start of White Lightning was more difficult than pulling into the crack on Double Cross. The climbing into the pod on Double Cross is easy - just run-out. The good thing is, once you're in the pod, you can casually place two bomber pieces with a no hands rest. Then, if you were to blow it pulling into the crack, you're luckily already 20ft up! Let me know if you end up doing it. The view from the belay is pretty awesome for a sunset session.
I've only climbed a few of the moderates at Tahquitz / Suicide (Trough, Fingertip, Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn, Open Book, Sundance, Serpentine). I'm sure you've been on a few of these as well. I absolutely loved P2 of Coffin Nail. The horn of course is classic. Open Book is stellar (followed that one). I felt like Tommy Caldwell on the Sundance slab. The traverse on P2 was probably some of the most fluid climbing I've ever done. Super focused - no fall slab mindset. Good times!
Here is my tick-list in case you find yourself looking for ideas in J-Tree. www.mountainproject.com/user/112058049/bob-klaasic/ticks
If you have any favorites, send em' my way. I'm always looking for route inspiration!
thats awesome, best climb!1
It's a gooder.
Those Black Diamond crack gloves are freaking awesome. It’s almost like cheating. Doesn’t look like you needed them, you jamming technique looks solid.
I haven't tried the BD gloves yet. I do have some Ocun's that I use on sandstone or "grittier" cracks. (I generally only tape up in Indian Creek). Gloves are just more convenient. So, I'll have to give those BD ones a try. Thanks for the good word!
Did it with Hex's back in 1981 wearing EB's and Athletic Tape with an A-16 stuff sack modified as a chalk bag. 1" Tape runners and 50gr oval biners. Some fixed pins also.
So rad. The old school ethics and ascents of that century are super intriguing. Thanks for sharing!
I remember it was sketchy to start. I hope the nut was not your first protection since it can be pulled sideways (not only down).
I do place a gear nest - 1 nut and 1 cam for my first piece. Bomber enough for me!
Nice climbing. I would have been happier with a couple of number 3 and 4s…
Yeah, 3" cams are useful on this one. When I filmed this, I didn't bring anything bigger than #2. But, having 3" cams makes it much safer. Personally, I don't think there are many places for a 4" cam. The crack is mostly 1-3" and the upper chimney has small placements. But, it never hurts to bring extra pro just in case! Thanks for the comment!
howd ya get down
I'm still up there @Malcom! Bring the helicopter!
Just kidding. There are fixed steel rings on the anchor. You can kinda see them at 10:39. You just pass the end of your rope through these rings and toss the rope down. From there, you just do a traditional rappel. One of my other videos shows this process in case you're curious! Link: czcams.com/video/m1WT3h9lpZE/video.html
Mmmmm... Jammy send wedges!
Nothing like a good ol' grilled cheese jamwich or peanut butter and jam sandwich while watching Space Jam 🚀in your paJAMas! Mah buddy!
Wear a helmet bro!
I was and I do! ⛑️
@@KlaasicAdventure Very good! Watching out for u!! 👍