5.14c or 5.12d? "My Idea of Fun" - a Joshua Tree rock climbing story
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2020
- 5.14c or 5.12d? "My Idea of Fun" - a Joshua Tree rock climbing story
In the pantheon of hard Joshua Tree rock climbs controversy, big egos and slander go hand in hand. Behind every great route there’s a story, oftentimes larger than life and shrouded in mystery. "My Idea of Fun" aka "Borne to be Wild" established by the late Paul Borne in 1994 is one such route that has it all. Big number claims, spicy downgrades, unknown repeats and even a story about the literal practice of letting go in Zen Buddhism.
I hope you enjoy you this story behind one of Joshua Tree's most mysterious rock climbs.
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I think you would like this video: • Hard Joshua Tree Rock ...
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Link to the route on Mountain Project: www.mountainproject.com/route...
Old uncut footage of Alan's original redpoint by Tia Stark: • My Idea of Fun
About Giant Rock:
My goal is to entertain you with original rock climbing videos and maybe teach something along the way. Climbing history, first ascent adventures and obscure choss. Based out of Joshua Tree, California.
#rockclimbing #climbing #sportclimb #sportclimbing #crackclimb #firstascent #tradclimbing #joshuatree #giantrock #climb #tradclimb #peopleareawesome #mountain #amazingpeople #mountains #climber #alanmoore #athlete #ascent #giantrock #colegibson #losangeles #joshuatreenationalpark - Sport
Excellent video. RIP to those featured who we have lost.
This is the best climbing channel on youtube. Didn't realize the sheer diversity of climbs in Joshua Tree and the story telling is great. Such a cool channel
AMAZING VIDEO!! The editing and storytelling is superb along with all of the great climbing legends and quotes featured in it, TRULY ART. Watched the video several times because I just really loved it, after that I went to your channel and watched other of your videos, ALL OF THEM AMAZING!! Pretty sad about the passing of the great Cosgrove, but as you said he will continue living as long as his lines are repeated. You have a lot of great content with him, he had a beautiful vision and vivid description about Joshua Tree, makes me hope I can visit and climb there someday. So happy for you to have known him personally. Really glad that CZcams recommended me this video, already subscribed, my new favorite climbing channel!!
Thanks so much for the kind words Omar! Super psyched you are enjoying the videos and it's my pleasure to share Cosgrove's spirit. Definitely hit me up when you do make it out to Joshua Tree!
Respect to PB, Birdman, Cosgrove, Moore, Gordon, and Cole Gibson for keeping the route alive. Awesome video
Thanks Andy!
These videos are so great. Thank you! I love the insights into the history and lore of more obscure but beloved lines.
Thank you! I'm a big fan of obscura as well :)
Really digging the climbing history and stories of the people behind the routes. So much cooler than a video of some strong climber grunting up the Next Hardest Sport Route. Keep em coming!
Glad you enjoyed it!
5.14c if you bolt it on lead
cozy again with the commentary excellent
Even with the downgrade, I still can't do it :) But it's a really cool line!
I have climbed with Sean Myles. He climbed on pretty much equal terms with Moon and Moffatt. If he says he did the climb,he did it.
That's awesome you climbed with him! Are you guys still in contact? I'd love to send this video his way. I have no doubt that if he said he climbed it then he did it. The problem is we don't know if he said that, lots of conflicting info. Would be great to hear from him once and for all what happened.
@@GiantRock I'd be interested too - this would not rate as particularly difficult compared to what he was climbing in the UK and France. Strong, and bold as f***.
Great little video, thanks!
Keep up the good work with these history lessons!
Super interesting videos. Pure awesomeness !
Best mid work day break, take me to church! Thanks again.
I love stories like that, thank you! Sean Myles is featured in the Real Thing - he was more than capable of climbing route of this difficulty. I know that judging the route by its looks (and this one is stunningly beautiful - I need to visit JT sometime...) is quite stupid, BUT it looks way easier than Action Directe. Keep on posting stories from far away (for me)!
Oh its def waaaaaaay easier than AD that's for sure.
Another quality video, thanks Cole!
thanks so much!
Great video! Would love to see more about different developers in the area during certain time periods. Or even just fun stories about popular routes in the area!
Thanks so much! I've got some other videos on my channel of a similar nature. Check out "The New Deal" if you haven't seen it.
these are the things in climbing that Scott helps bring to light
What a great story, nicely done Cole!
Thanks Matthew and nice work on the graphic!
Nice film! Sean Miles in his day was considered one of the strongest climbers in the UK so would not be too surprised if he did get the 2nd ascent. Story goes he moved to California to take up surfing.
Thanks for insight. I looked briefly to find Sean Miles and ask him if remembered this route but didn't have any luck. Fun to think he's a Cali surfer now!
Spectacular video- love the intermingling of JT climbing history, especially love hearing about John the Birdman roping up and backing off from top out's in order to starve the ego...incredible. It was his beta that got me through Gunsmoke the first time. "My Idea of Fun, " AKA "Borne to be Wild," encompasses all of the elements that make a classic hidden-in-plain-sight gem in JT- radically unclear grades, variable rock quality with spicy runouts, killer footwork, great local history/stories. Thanks for the killer video, guys!
Thanks so much glad u enjoyed it!
I loved this vid!!
so glad to hear it!
Fantastic stuff
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for another cool insight in to JT. One day Ill get there.
Thanks so much, be sure to hit me up when you make it out!
another instant classic
Cool Story. love hearing about the birdman!
a true legend!
“Almost obsessive “!
Kudos to birdman. Mad respect
true legend.
Good video, tho a little heavy on the trolling hearsay.
It is really that hard to determine whether the crux sequence taking pump and other elements into account is v6- vs v12-13? Seems kind of ridiculous to me.
However difficult it may be now it was much more difficult back in the early 90's. Throw in the weird nature of Joshua Tree climbing and prob not as ridiculous as it may seem.
R.I.P. gone too young
What's the point in bolting most of it and still having a potential ground fall at the top? They couldn't spare one more bolt to save your life?
The ethic back in the day was to use bolts where you need them. Their thinking was that part of the climb was super easy so didn't need a bolt there. Not saying they were right or that bolting hasn't evolved but that's why.
@@GiantRock Our thinking in the early 90s was that putting bolts in by hand sucks @ss, and if you are on a hard route, 30ft of 5.9 shouldn't scare you. We did have a different ethic about it, and i can't say we were right....just that we were lazy.
Yeah this could be a good route, but thanks to stupid ethics, heres a 30ft runout!
@@channel1reno the rock didn't change from beginning to end of your sentence, you did
@@plannine6542 lots of easier routes have equal runouts; and putting routs up on lead; it often felt safer to just climb, rather than hang out and place a bolt; especially if you needed to hang on a hook to place it.
the real story here is that most humans are simply bad with numbers :-D
The guy who understands grades is Alan Watts. His guidebooks are nails.