This Is First Ascent Trad Climbing
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2021
- This is what you can expect from First Ascent climbing. Loose, dirty, filthy wet climbing. We attempt to make the first full free ascent of the free/aid line of Jumaristen A2/7
The route is on the North wall of Gloppedalen and the first ascent was done in 1995 by Olav Båsen, Kai Johannessen and Rolf Motland. They orginally climbed it all free except 2 pitches which had aid sections of A0 and A2.
Gloppedalen North Wall is known for being a little bit dirty, wet and loose, but this was certainly the most of all three of these factors that either of us had experienced on the. Overall we found that it was a fantastic rock climb if you are in to that esoteric type of stuff.
Climbers are Pete Whittaker and Mari Salvesen. The whole climb went free at a grade of around E5 6b (but one which needs a certain type of climbing appetite to overcome it). All pitches followed the original aid line apart from the final pitch. The last pitch of climbing had fallen down recently so we had to take a variation out to the right.
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When will XS to M crack gloves be back in stock?
What double ropes do you use? Are they triple rated? Seemed like for a while on the OW pitch you only had one clipped to gear. Great vid!
Mari is such a beast.
and definitely not a 5!
@@Mdjagg, definitely not a 5. Much better looking than Pete.
I think people misunderstood this 5 comment, haha!!
i meant her knee is cam size #5
@@WideBoyz LOL! I thought it was a solid joke for sure!
She's atleast a 9!
'The top of the climb has fallen down. It's destined to be a classic' had me laughing big time
loving these videos. funny, witty and dirty climbing.
Solid editing in this one! Real smooth
Sick editing. Really good adventure video.
5:40 pete has a Bear Grylls moment
hahaha
Love these videos of Mari and Pete's adventures
And this is suppose to be fun?
@@alexc650supposed to be
My only gripe is I'd have been happier if it was an hour long haha, love watching stuff like this!
The dual conversations in this were so good, love this editing style
Olav Båsen, of the original first ascent team, is an old friend from university in Trondheim. After moving to Stavanger he was for many years the leader of the local chapter of the local Mountain Rescue team. He grew very tired of having to locate the bodies of base jumpers. :-(
damn, understandable, that's gotta be rough ...
That's proper climbing, loose rock, wet, a bit of gardening and a proper rack of gear.
It takes me back
Loving the two rope British belaying. I haven't tried it myself but it looks cool for adding redundancy, spreading load across rock real estate, and maximizing visual suave.
That entire valley looks like loose rock haha, still such an amazingly scenic place to climb. Great video!
Yes therefore haven't been some other big rock calls there recently. The south side is a bit more solid
“Nobody likes that shit” - definitely a classic. Great video!
0:19 nice game.
Top notch trail mix, the climbing was also kinda cool.
always mix it yourself
Loving this content 🤘 keep it coming.
Love this content!
What an absolute BANGER of a video.
:D
Very enjoyable!!!
Awesome videos, keep 'em coming! Trad adventures are rad 🤘
Thanks! Will do! we've just been up Troll Wall, and its safe to say that was fairly adventurous.... haha
This video is a joy. I smiled the whole time
:D
1:28 Mari: "Everything's bigger at wild country, even the centimeters" I'm dying 😂
Enjoyed it, Pete. Always worry about lead inadvertently releasing some rock onto the belayer on these sorts of climbs. The footage of kicking some of the loose stuff off is pretty eye opening… particularly when it explodes when it hits bottom. Wow.
after yesterdays route climbing with mari...I can tell you now, there is more of this to come, haha!! you'll have to wait a few weeks for that episode though
Love your vids Pete! Y’all are pretty funny
You two are hilarious, and also very good.
We love these videos !
and we're greatful of you watching them, thanks :)
If we're talking about cracks compared to "normal climbing" in more harsh conditions, my experience this summer has been that if it's really hot then as long as it's jamming I can keep climbing. But if the route with the jam has a single normal hold on it in the heat we've had this summer, I start slipping off that hold right away. Back in the jams, it's fine.
Mari, Pete you have a talent to make the dirtiest weirdest routes look like walk in the park.. and fun ;) Well done on this one. Stay safe in these loose stuff! =)
Came back to watch this after the 5 part series with Toby ended and I wanted more!
Excellent video.Mari's face at 1:06 had me giggling my butt off!
This is the content I love from you.
How many pounds of gear was that for Mari? Looks crazy.
double rack of cams, 10 draws, small selcetion of wires. quite normal for a multipitch trad climb of this sort i'd say
Agreement with the comments posted this was whitty and great to watch even the minging bitz at the same time scary of that big loose shite 😯😁🙂🧗♂️🧗♀️👏👍
PS. Humour between you and Mari makes this and the smooth editing makes a greater vlog. Skill share paid off big time.
So pleased to see your port and starboard ropes now being used correctly!
haha, which is which?
@@WideBoyz Red (port) on the left, green (starboard) on the right. Anyone using them the other way round probably racks an odd number of quickdraws.
nice vibez between these two!
GG Mari, GG Pete! Thanks, helps a lot.
Love these vids
thanks :)
Now that is 'real' climbing - good effort both. :)
Amazing video! 🌞
thanks for watching
Fun editing and dynamic 👍
cheers
Absolutely filfy. With the second f.
I didn't understand very much of that, but I still enjoy watching :)
thanks for watching :)
This is Goooold!
OMG one of the best videoes ever
glad you enjoyed it
Mari: Maybe some slimmy offwidthing or something.
Pete: Some what?
Mart: Slimmy offwidthing or something.
Pete: Hmm.
Mari: We'll see.
Pete: I like that!
love it :D
Yay outdoor fun!
"You are a 5"
I was laughing so hard just about how out of nowhere that came.
After clarification from Pete, apparently her knee is cam size 5 xD
Mari is such a champ
Love the “dialogues” hahaha great to watch
thanks for watching :)
100% Epic!
That was so good 😂💪🏻
We need to get you on the channel at some point Toby. Crack meets Parkour 😅😉
@@WideBoyz yes yes yes
Well if "The Chasm" is a 3* classic I don't see why this can't become one!
Proper job
god, slippery rock gives me so much anxiety... I've taken too many whippers because of wet, slopey footholds
tread carefully
Do you guys hike down a different way, or climb back down? That's something I've never seen. Abandon a couple clips at the top and rappel down with a super long rope? Parachutes in the backpack?
On this massive I would guess they just walk down on the other side. Rappelling is also an option, but without preset abseil points (either drilled or some alpine style knotted bundles) it is usually slow, complicated and expensive.
Parachute is choice of experts ;)
This one just walk around, pretty straight forward 👍
"with cam four and five..."
"Do you have a four and a five?"
"I have a four."
"You are a five!"
Made my day!
Oh man, each time I come across loose rock I'd love to throw it down but there's always someone else around so I better not
always check before you dislodge the rock and not whilst you're doing it, thats the key! often people shout just after they've dislodged it, but that no use to anyone!
Good leading-stayed away from trouble, let your partner finish her moves. Were you trailing a rope or leading on two ropes?
Leading on two ropes. Useful for trad multipitches.
@@WideBoyz we used them back in the day to minimize rope drag without leading out too much
I like this «Mari». Marri her!
I don't understand why she has 2 ropes though
I think that's a European thing. I get why they use it for winding routes but not straight ones :/
@@user-cw2gz3qx9m am italian... can say i have never used 2 ropes ahah
Some advanteges: With half ropes you can rappel the full length (quicker escape). You have two ropes not just one and with all that loose rock there is a risk of rope damage due to rockfall. You can reduce rope drag if pieces of protections are far off the climbing line or the line goes left and right. And in case of a fall the force on a piece of protection is not as high as with a single rope since singel ropes are stiffer than half ropes.
@@ralfrussel1950 aaah okok thanks for the clarification
As a Gumby I was wondering too thought one was a haul rope for a haul bag.
Now I know ...
I barely can go up to 15m... This is scary! Well done anyways!
Bro, so harsh! She more than a 5....wait...nevermind.
nice climb tho looks a great route
You needed a flymow on your rack for that route.
I'd love to get into trad, but holy having to buy all that equipment is expensive ;(
Most of it will last a lifetime, and compared to things like mountain biking or skiing it starts to look cheap. You can put together a starter rack for 500 on sale.
@@sjmiller131 Hmm sure it probably lasts a life time but shouldn't safety equipment be replaced every x years? In sweden one single cam thing can cost like 150 bucks haha
The metal gear can last a long time, fabric elements shorter safe lifespan, but still years well stored
Find yourself a woman like Mari.
Are they in Norway?? I just saw the route guide and didnt notice i could read the text😅
"that's a big one"
exactly
I thought when dislodging rocks of any size you're supposed to yell "rock!" so that others can take cover (before they're killed). That's at least what us old timer's did.
we already knew no one was down there. we did the checking before the trundle
What harness does Mari climb in?
Dmm
"A" in A0, A4 etc, means aid (climbing), right? Is there anyway to convert those numbers into a sport climbing grade?
No, A4 can be anything from 6a to impossible and A0 can be exactly the same. It depends on the rocks features.
@@WideBoyz 😲 That's a good thing to know before heading out on an A0 thinking it'll be a piece of cake.
@@WideBoyz How does aid climbing even work? If you can place gear to pull on, doesn’t that imply that there is a proper crack or hold you could hold on to? I’ve only seen A0 sections in bolted routes where the bolts are placed close enough together that you can pull on the quick draws (or step on the bolts) if you can’t climb it freely.
@@Mike-oz4cv you might be hammering beaks into a thin seam (on an otherwise blank wall) which is way too small for fingers and toes. This is just an example of how an aid pitch might no be freeable
*the Wide Couplez
haha!!
I hate the anchor at 6:00 yall bold
Sometimes it is enough to have done something - and move on!
I wanna hear Pete speak norwegian!
q u a l i t y c o n t e n t
thanks :)
Are you actually trying to convince me that climbing on wet loose rocks it's not that bad? Good try, but no😂 cool editing!
its an acquired taste thats for sure
i had to giggle Trad Climbing
sounded like a slur or like someone with no experience climbing 1st go
First?
jesus did she have those beley anchors on 2 cams? thats not recomended/ safe 3:27
Yes two good cams and nothing else in the belay is normal. You would use 3 or more pieces if one or both of the pieces was not bomber
@@WideBoyz cams for beleying is not bomber cams walk, got qualls m8 or do you just climb?
@@therealm00theoriginal27 cams are very normal in belays. Walking is only a problem if the crack is deep and widens at the back so they can umbrella out. As you are putting weight through the cams on the belay this also means they aren't going to walk. Don't you worry, I've thought all this through 😉
what exactly do you mean by A2? please dont say your using american grades?>
A2 isn't specifically American; the 'A' system for rating aid is pretty universal.
@@ip2862 i see
And "your" sounds just a bit American. Did you possibly mean "you're"?
do you know a wide boy is a bad thing? means sly un trust worthy etc
Jesus Christ, the spam is unreal. 6 separate comments, nearly all of them whiny/misinformed. Give it a rest
@@mattmortimer6803 hahaha no clue i see
@@mattmortimer6803 im quallified, you have no clue
@@mattmortimer6803 type of kid that leaves all your mess behind at the crag
your supposed to shout "BELOW" when you knock rocks down the crag like that.... amatures
That's done well before you actually knock the rock off 👍
@@WideBoyz your not supposed to be knocking them off in the first place so how can youi do it before hand? lol.....
@@therealm00theoriginal27 it's normal to get rid of stuffing like this in the mountains when there is no one else around. It helps the next people climbing 👍
@@WideBoyz you cant always know your alone and if they belong on the rock in the first place they dont need your help removing rocks. no pros will teach you this its also bad for the rock face in general
@@WideBoyz sorry to be so negative tho, pretty sure im right tho i did do my training a long time ago
no rule is never ever grab grass... ever
“Loose/filthy” I’ve dated a few women that fit that description. Lol
@@sploo13 you seem like a fun person
please read crag etiqete rules etc and put into practice tho especially since your showing people videos could at least do it by the book