A note for our viewers: a previous version of this video erroneously stated that Florentine bespoke shoemaker Roberto Ugolini was deceased, but he is very much alive. In fact, it was another Florentine bespoke shoemaker, Stefano Bemer, who passed away in 2012. We wish Mr. Ugolini continued success!
I believe that these particular shoes are above high quality standards, and I would recommend them to anyone willing to pay the ticket. Bc they are definitely worth it if you ask me.
I’ve found that buying quality shoes is actually cheaper in the long run provided that you take care of them. I bought a pair of red wing boots 5 years ago and I still get compliments on them.
Santoni's Fatte a Mano line is actually worth buying. The others are fairly average, but it seems overly harsh to stick them below fashion brands like Tods, Ferragamo (minus the Tramezzas) Jeffrey West, and Gucci.
Nice to see Vass in this video. I have a few pairs from them in the U last, and they're now the only shoes I'll buy. Amazing craftsmanship for a reasonable price, especially if you're outside the EU and don't have to pay VAT.
Austro-Hungarians are honestly underrated in general. They have the oldest bespoke shoemaking firm (Scheer) and arguably the most important shoe designer Nikolaus Tuczek who taught George Cleverely and was a strong inspiration for Daniel Wegan was from A-H.
@@louiscyfer6944 tell me about your customer service experience. Its one of the most important aspects to me when I make a purchase. One of the things I love about TLB is their outstanding customer service. If I know a company is subpar it makes me very unlikely to order from them.
Ouch, my favorite pair in my collection is a pair of Santoni's I got new under $300 (new $700) and I have to disagree, the quality is phenomenal. Hand painted with the most beautiful layered rich colors, super comfy, and it mixed brand being more fashionable but super traditional in terms of shoe making. Regardless of what you think of the styles, it deserves a higher spot. Still, a great video as always! Makes me really want to try out Vass. Maybe I'll convert you to the Belgian loafer gang haha! Cheers
Agreed. My favourites are Santoni Goodyear-welted wholecuts. Phenomenal quality/finish, beautiful last, fantastic arch support. (Admittedly MSRP on these was way above $500). I’ve never found a pair of Allen Edmonds that I’d want to wear, based on homely looks and coarse finishes. I think Alden’s use of sub-quality innards is appalling at their price point.
@@scottbarker3885 exactly. I've personally never been attracted to Allen Edmonds; very standard looking with not much flair and yeah, the finishing isn't all that. The fact that Simon Crampton at Permanent Style and Justin FitzPatrick at The Shoe Snob praise Santoni is enough regardless of my personal experience...
Santoni is expensive but the quality is great and they are very comfy. It's hard to give this video any credibility when he rates Santoni an F. He clearly is just a hater.
Alfred Sargent went out of business during the pandemic. Their inventory was purchased in the bankruptcy, but the founding family and new investors purchased the manufacturing equipment and now make shoes under the Paul Sargent name.
$300-$500 comparison video would be fantastic! I am close to buying some Velasca shoes (I see you did a video on them in the past) but would be nice to know how they compare to others in the same price point. Great work as always!
@fgfghjkggdfdghjfgfjh I have a pair of Osts in blue suede. The suede gets a bit dirty due to where I live(AZ) and because of my wider feet, the upper kinda squishes against the sole, so some of the dye has rubbed onto the upper. The fudging has also imprinted into the uppers. A bit odd but it might just be due to my feet. Otherwise fairly comfortable and mold to your feet rather quickly. Plus the closed channel is an appreciated detail at such a low price point.
Santoni defenitely deserves better. Their quality may be not top nodge but it is very good. I don’t know what shoes you looked at but they are have very classic models for a reasonable price (I don’t know which shoes from Santoni are over 1000 or even 2000). I recomend their shoes from around 500-800$.
Completely agree with you on just about everything except for Santoni. Their entry level shoes are blake stitched, as stated, but their higher end Goodyear shoes are phenomenal. Hand made, great quality, and beautiful designs. I also think Santoni shoes are some of the most comfortable dress shoes you can get but that’s just me 🤷🏻♂️.
Completely agree on Vass shoes - they are just incredible for the price. Surprised on Santoni, though - all my local stores offer them (Fatte A Mano line) at around $500 - $800, and they come in some very attractive lasts - as well as nice materials. During sales season they're obviously much cheaper.
I think the way Allen Edmonds has stuck to its guns with its traditional styling almost makes them more bold in a contemporary setting, especially outside of the US.
Santoni gets an F?? You mad lad. Hand made, hand painted in Italy with patinas nowhere else to be found, Goodyear welt, extremely soft and high quality leathers and suede, unique designs, lifetime repair guaranteed and when on sale they cost 500€. Shoes that are going to last literally more than the person who buys them. Plus the prices you showed are referring to real crocodile leather and extremely limited editions.
Yeah, I was surprised at that rating. I think C would have been way more appropriate. I got a pair of their fringe loafers on sale for around $270 and they're the best pair of shoes I own, but even at the normal $700 they're good
I think he's referring mainly to the Santoni shoes that are readily available in the US at department stores like Nordstrom or Neiman Marcus. And with these, you get a comparatively lower-end, blake-stitched shoe for a ridiculous 700-800 US dollars. To me, the quality looks to be on par with shoes from To Boot New York or Magnanni, yet at double the price of those.
@@DemetriosLevi I know right. At least C. Personally I never pay for full price because every single brand is charging crazy money. When on sale and especially 40% and over they are the best shoes you can get. Other than that is all about individual taste.
@@kaikaichen My hand dyed blake-stitched loafers have just arrived from Santoni and they look, feel and walk phenomenally. I paid 450 euros which can be a lot of money for someone but I got what I was looking for in return and that for me is priceless.
As a Northamptonian myself, I’m glad to see our flag is still flying in the dress shoe world despite years of concern about the Northampton shoe industry
There are some no brainer options that are obviously missing here which seems odd but Meccariello offers RTW ranges that would make these shoes blush. Acme shoemaker does a huge RTW line of handmade shoes. Carmina, TLB. I get some of these brands I just mentioned are borderline $500, but if Allen Edmonds independence is being considered a $500 shoe, then the ones I listed above all clearly meet the margin of error being used for this list.
Nice compilation. You also need to look into the new wave of high end shoemakers such as Antonio Meccariello, Norman Vilalta and Paolo Scafora. The product they offer at their price points will put all incumbents to shame.
@@gentlemansgazette it is the definitive holy trinity of high end shoemaking currently IMO, and I have had experience with many of the names on your list. Give them a try, you won’t regret it
I own both Gaziano & Girling and Saint Crispins MTO on their personalized last option, so I speak from personal experience having owned both, and Saint Crispins is miles ahead of Edward Green, G&G, Enzo Bonafe and the like. it's quite strange to see them on the same tier as Allen Edmonds and under G&G when they're hand lasted, hand welted, and their MTO service comes in wayyy below G&G's MTO service price wise.
I don't really get the Santoni criticism. I love the designs they are very sleek and stylish. I own 1 pair and that's all the dress shoes I have (im an adolescent) and I absolutely fell in love with them from the start. So what exactly puts them in the D-? Maybe we have different priorities in shoes, that you judge by the amount of craftsmanship and I judge by the sharpness of the design? I am trying to get a grasp of the world of men's classic dressing hehe.
This was a very nice selection of brands. It’s interesting to see different perspectives on some of these, and even within your team, how some liked a brand maybe more than others. There are some brands I wish you would’ve included like Bontoni or Antonio Meccariello or Norman Vilalta for example. I know it’s impossible to include all of them though because the video would be extremely long. Another interesting one I have experience with is Justin Fitzpatricks shoes. His catalogue to shop from is huge and he offers some pretty unique options with some custom mto stuff as well. Shoepassion has some nice ones and so does Carmina. I have been indulging in Carmina’s custom program which basically allows you to choose a lots of options, like a mto program that’s pretty in depth.
I agree with Vass being on the top of this list, they're shoes are almost always under $500, and they have wonderful lasts and craftsmanship. There is also an option to get b grade shoes with minor defects and those can be had for around $350. In my opinion, Vass undoubtedly provides the best shoe for the money, and It's the shoe I would recommend to anyone below the bespoke shoe price range. Some brands that have been gaining attention have been TLB Mallorca as well as Yeosall, I haven't tried them out personally so I'd like to see your review before I drop the cash. Again I would love to say thank you to everyone at the Gentleman's Gazette for these wonderful videos, while I'm a bit more fashion-forward in regards to classical style ( I wear pinstripe or black jackets instead of a regular navy blazer). I really do appreciate everything you guys do and have taught me. Here's a quick tip for those who are more fashion-forward however, learn the rules and acquire the basic garments of classical menswear, and then and only then should you branch outside the traditional. From time to time try a black blazer instead of navy, or get a pinstripe jacket and put that on with grey pants. Do it right and I promise you won't look like an idiot. I think a video that many of us want to see is the best shoe regardless of the price video (including, rtr, mtm and bespoke). It's nice to have a holy grail to save up for.
Good topic and video. Would you consider doing another video with shoe brands under $500? Some brands I suggest ranking include Allen Edmonds (not their Independence Collection), Loake, TLB Mallorca, Carmina, Sons of Henrey, Thomas Bird, Beckett Simonon, Meermin, Jack Erwin, Ace Marks, Thursday Boot Company, Velasca, Anthony Veer, CNES, J. Fitzpatrick, and Taft, to name a few.
Got a pair of Santoni's oxfords for just over $200 from a shop that was closing due to the pandemic. Best shoes I've ever owned, it's mind blowing that they would retail for so much more
Whenever someone talks trickers they talk country shoes/boots but I'm a really big fan of their town shoes. I've got three pairs, the lasts work well on me and the materials are fantastic. Their online outlet store is always well stocked and their CS is great. love that brand.
trickers were the brand that got me into menswear. i saw a beautiful pair of their patinad green shoes and although ill never own them as they were a limited production run, i aspire to one day own a pair of shoes that will match them. they also looked comfortably wide in their profile too.
I think there are many many many makers that can replace some brands in the list. Acme and Gordon Jimjun of China, many Japanese makers like Yohei Fukuda and Siroeno Yosui.
I'm glad you included the Gucci loafer. I know, it's a fashion brand, but the 1953 loafer is an exception. It's blake stitched so will never win over die hard shoe nerds, but then again, if they were Goodyear welted they wouldn't have the same sleek look. After all, the styling of a shoe is very important for most.
I live in Kazakhstan, so most of the listed brands aren't available here. There's a really good local shoe brand that makes dress sneakers, winter boots and other shoes that are on the more casual side. It's called Zshoes if I'm not mistaken, and they operate from Astana.
Will you please do an entire episode on tweeds and other similar fabrics? The history, the best makers, and the alternatives like silk, linen, bamboo, or flax tweed style blends and fabrics.
I enjoyed this video very much. Thank You. I have a pair of Cleverly shoes made to copy a British style WW2 service shoe in looks and out of Scotch Grain. I got these circa 2005. I remember the cost was $315 and they were from the cheaper line. They had a middle line for the $570ish range and bespoke started at $2000 or so. One of the most comfortable shoes I ever wore. I wore out the leather soles and heals and put a vibram medium lug sole in them and wore those out as well and resoled them in Vibrams again. Still going strong and I keep them polished and they are still casual presentable as a walker or with jeand or khakis. I know you dont like Vibrams but I always thought a military shoe was the exception to the rule.
Rozsnyai makes a great handwelted RTW shoe with many, many lasts. They have their Budapesters, but their standard styles are much sleeker. I prefer the MTO because the more extravagant style is not for me, but the shoes are great. Also, Marc Guyot does a great shoe if one is really into that Golden Age look.
Thank you for another great video. I feel you would have included Norman Vilalta and Antonio Meccariello lines if you had extensive wear experience with them. Both coming to RTW with strong experience in Bespoke shoemaking. It would also be informative if one day you could make a video of maybe 15 best dress boots above $500. I have seen many of your videos and learned so much.
a video on the $300-500 would be nice. i would also be interested in greater detail on good options for those of us who have wide feet, or who walk a lot and need the extra room for comfort and foot swell.
I really miss Stefano Branchini from Bologna, Italy… Besides that there are several Dutch brands like Greve and Van Bommel that provide good shoes around that price level.
I own several pairs on the list. My favorite pair that I own are from Gaziano & Girling. I even have a 20 plus year old pair of Ferragamo’s that have been resoled several times. I’m guessing quality has changed with the years. Corthay Arca is next on my list to buy. A few shoes that you didn’t mention Berluti (I do think you talked about them in a Q&A talk), J.M. Weston, Paolo Scafora, Bentoni and Norman Vilalta.
Crockett and jones under neath Allen Edmonds independent line is a sin. Owning multiple of both I sold of most of my Allen Edmonds independent and regular shoes. Only kept some boots.
Couldn’t agree more! I own over 8 pair of AE and they have progressively gotten worse in creation / wear / and customer service. My C&J on the other hand are on a noticeable next level
Yeah I'd love to see some lower end goodyear welted shoes like loakes and barker get some attention, at these price points it is more likely to see fashion brands blurring the lines if quality in the $300 area
@fgfghjkggdfdghjfgfjh soles are soles, personally I would happily buy an ideal shoe with zero quality soles for £200 less than the same shoe with nice soles. Though I can see how in a vast collection, where they wouldn't get worn through very quickly, the wrong soles and the cost of resoling could impact a decision to purchase. Like tires on a car whilst not being a dealbreaker for one's dream car, is definitely an annoying extra expense.
You should be embarrassed for dismissing Saint Laurent while sounding like you've never even worn any of their shoes or boots. You have a clear lack of understanding regarding what the brand does, its history with shoes, the types of leather used and the regions sourced from, the way they are constructed, and the types of people they are made for. Just admit you don't understand anything that isn't considered traditional or conservative.
My Allen Edmonds size is 10.5 D. Given my Allen Edmonds size, do you know the equivalent size for an F last model of Vass? I love these videos; keep up the good work.
Very interesting and well done. Especially VASS being recognized. It would be nice if we could try on those shoes in New York City. I would love to see $350-$500 range. What about Viberg shoes? Love this series!
that's a curious ranking been wearing Santoni for over a decade, and only had to resole the first pairs just about now, their soles are virtually indestructible, granted their US retail prices are ridiculous, as they are for Ferragamo, but more than them later Santoni's Goodyear welted shoes are, in my experience, made far better than ie Crocket and Jones while retailing for just 100$ more (in Europe), and if you can get them during their 50% off sale, they are a no-brainer among the Italian brands, one has to like their patinas and extroverted details though regarding Ferragamo, most of the models sold in the US have an incredibly low quality to price ratio, whereas in Europe, you can pick up their Goodyear welted "tramezza" line anywhere from 800 to 1200, and they too will last forever with the conservative design to match always entertaining to watch your videos, keep making them 👍
I pick up all my shoes in thrift stores. It's rare when it happens but at times you can find some really nice stuff that looks unworn. I have found Loake, Barker, Joseph Cheaney and Church's all for under £20 and like new. Other than that I just grab any sneakers that look half decent and are cheap. I see no point in spending a fortune on things that get worn out so quickly. I would be bankrupt within a year with the amount of walking I do!
Take a look at Heschung shoes, a brand out of France, Alsace-Lorraine. Also, I am curious to know what the hallmarks of an "Austro-Hungarian" shoes? What makes them different, aesthetically, from British shoes?
Me too. I just received a lovely pair of Loake semi brogues. They are called Woodstock. They are Burgundy with a polished toe and the vamp of the shoe is grain. They look and feel so good. They are also me first rubber soled shoe from Loake. I tried Herring shoes for a change but the quality is sadly very poor for the price. I am a pensioner so I need good value for what I pay. I know Loake are not considered high end in shoes, but they’re good enough for me. I’ve had a few compliments on the brown Oxfords pair I bought off eBay for £40. I am cautious of the law of diminishing returns, so I doubt if I would buy from Gaziano Girling even if I had the money.
He got some at the heelcaps too. Well one doesn't need a youtuber to care for ones shoes better then that. Dad would have given me the belt but for sure no compliments ;)
John Lobb’s Prestige collection are very lovely looking shoes, that elevate their RTW with lovely waists, better quality leather and construction than their standard RTW offering. That said £1650 is just ridiculous - I own two pairs because I love the style, but they aren’t where I would usually spend my money. If I was going to spend that kind of money again, I would choose Edward Green every day of every week - the quality of the leather, the quality of the construction is on a different planet and they’re £700 cheaper. My pair are just beautiful - as perfect a pair of shoes you could ever want - the leather is better than any I have owned otherwise. Church’s simply aren’t what they used to be - they’re on par with Trickers, Loake etc., maybe even a tad better, but they want the same price as Edward Green and that is just insane to me. Loake are excellent for the price, but make sure you get the ones still made in Northampton. But don’t listen to me - this man is the absolute pro.
Hmm I'm not sure Santoni ranks there - I own a couple pairs of dress shoes priced around 1500USD but as long as you take good care, they're absolutely fantastic. The construction is fair and the designs are subtle, yet affordable and doesn't go to the 5000plus range like some do. I don't really see why it's rated badly...
Would love to see your review on some of the other English brands like Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb London, etc. Glad you covered Santoni. I tried on a pair of their cap toe oxfords and was unsure where their quality was at. Thank you also for reviewing Alden. I'm tired of spending money on things like shoes that don't always last as long as I would like. Just about all of my shoes wore out at the same time, and now I'm planning on replacing each pair with some that may last the rest of my life. Buy less, but buy better.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Would be interesting to hear your views on Antonio Meccariello, Stefano Bemer, Paolo Scafora, New & Lingwood, Loake, JM Weston, Carmina, Carlos Santos, Zegna?
Ugh... I was wanting to find a cheaper replacement for my Crockett & Jones Coniston boots - and thanks to your video I now want a pair of Edward Green Galway boots...
Id like to mention an up and coming brand from india named Bridlen, they offer great value for the quality and material in the shoe, their top line "the founders line" offers J&FJ outsoles and a free brass toe tap option :)
Thanks you for the video. I would be glad that you talk about one of my country's brand : Paraboot ; which deserves an A for their quality/price range.
Amazing video... I think this was first time that you spoke of such a vast range of shoe brands. Yes! there are many brands still out there that maybe deserve to be mentioned. Just a recommendation, please do try to visit Justin Fitzpatrick when ever you are in New York. He makes some amazing shoes which are a level above TLB, Carmina and Allen Edmonds. You have great taste in shoes and I Think you will really like them in every aspect. Thanks for making these videos.
A note for our viewers: a previous version of this video erroneously stated that Florentine bespoke shoemaker Roberto Ugolini was deceased, but he is very much alive. In fact, it was another Florentine bespoke shoemaker, Stefano Bemer, who passed away in 2012. We wish Mr. Ugolini continued success!
Hi where can you get bespoke shoes in the $1,300 range? I saw that it was mentioned in the article.
I believe that these particular shoes are above high quality standards, and I would recommend them to anyone willing to pay the ticket. Bc they are definitely worth it if you ask me.
I’ve found that buying quality shoes is actually cheaper in the long run provided that you take care of them. I bought a pair of red wing boots 5 years ago and I still get compliments on them.
Santoni's Fatte a Mano line is actually worth buying. The others are fairly average, but it seems overly harsh to stick them below fashion brands like Tods, Ferragamo (minus the Tramezzas) Jeffrey West, and Gucci.
Nice to see Vass in this video. I have a few pairs from them in the U last, and they're now the only shoes I'll buy. Amazing craftsmanship for a reasonable price, especially if you're outside the EU and don't have to pay VAT.
Gonna have to check them out
Austro-Hungarians are honestly underrated in general. They have the oldest bespoke shoemaking firm (Scheer) and arguably the most important shoe designer Nikolaus Tuczek who taught George Cleverely and was a strong inspiration for Daniel Wegan was from A-H.
vass is horrible. terrible customer service and they don't even make grown up sized shoes
@@louiscyfer6944 tell me about your customer service experience. Its one of the most important aspects to me when I make a purchase. One of the things I love about TLB is their outstanding customer service. If I know a company is subpar it makes me very unlikely to order from them.
@@josephheinecke1992 it took about 10 attempts to contact them before they replied. when they did reply it was rude.
Ouch, my favorite pair in my collection is a pair of Santoni's I got new under $300 (new $700) and I have to disagree, the quality is phenomenal. Hand painted with the most beautiful layered rich colors, super comfy, and it mixed brand being more fashionable but super traditional in terms of shoe making. Regardless of what you think of the styles, it deserves a higher spot.
Still, a great video as always! Makes me really want to try out Vass. Maybe I'll convert you to the Belgian loafer gang haha! Cheers
Agreed. My favourites are Santoni Goodyear-welted wholecuts. Phenomenal quality/finish, beautiful last, fantastic arch support. (Admittedly MSRP on these was way above $500).
I’ve never found a pair of Allen Edmonds that I’d want to wear, based on homely looks and coarse finishes.
I think Alden’s use of sub-quality innards is appalling at their price point.
@@scottbarker3885 exactly. I've personally never been attracted to Allen Edmonds; very standard looking with not much flair and yeah, the finishing isn't all that. The fact that Simon Crampton at Permanent Style and Justin FitzPatrick at The Shoe Snob praise Santoni is enough regardless of my personal experience...
Placing Santoni below tods Gucci etc is total bs
Santoni is expensive but the quality is great and they are very comfy. It's hard to give this video any credibility when he rates Santoni an F. He clearly is just a hater.
I came here to say the same thing. Surprised he put Santoni so low.
Alfred Sargent went out of business during the pandemic. Their inventory was purchased in the bankruptcy, but the founding family and new investors purchased the manufacturing equipment and now make shoes under the Paul Sargent name.
Thanks for sharing, we had not followed that deveolpment.
So sad, they made beautiful shoes but Paul Sargent’s brand looks amazing and I’ll be soon to own a pair.
$300-$500 comparison video would be fantastic! I am close to buying some Velasca shoes (I see you did a video on them in the past) but would be nice to know how they compare to others in the same price point. Great work as always!
Velasca shoes are a no brainer. Hand made in Italy at such a low price point. Nothing extreme style wise. Basic and traditional shoes.
Go straight to TLB Mallorca.
@fgfghjkggdfdghjfgfjh I have a pair of Osts in blue suede. The suede gets a bit dirty due to where I live(AZ) and because of my wider feet, the upper kinda squishes against the sole, so some of the dye has rubbed onto the upper. The fudging has also imprinted into the uppers. A bit odd but it might just be due to my feet. Otherwise fairly comfortable and mold to your feet rather quickly. Plus the closed channel is an appreciated detail at such a low price point.
Santoni defenitely deserves better.
Their quality may be not top nodge but it is very good. I don’t know what shoes you looked at but they are have very classic models for a reasonable price (I don’t know which shoes from Santoni are over 1000 or even 2000). I recomend their shoes from around 500-800$.
Completely agree with you on just about everything except for Santoni. Their entry level shoes are blake stitched, as stated, but their higher end Goodyear shoes are phenomenal. Hand made, great quality, and beautiful designs. I also think Santoni shoes are some of the most comfortable dress shoes you can get but that’s just me 🤷🏻♂️.
I really enjoyed the video. I agree on almost every point. I would have loved to hear you opinion on Carmina and JM Weston. Keep it up!
Completely agree on Vass shoes - they are just incredible for the price. Surprised on Santoni, though - all my local stores offer them (Fatte A Mano line) at around $500 - $800, and they come in some very attractive lasts - as well as nice materials. During sales season they're obviously much cheaper.
Alden is my favorite, still have my first pair of them, bought in 1991 and they look Not like new but really great for that Long time 👍
They're excellent shoes.
I think the way Allen Edmonds has stuck to its guns with its traditional styling almost makes them more bold in a contemporary setting, especially outside of the US.
You missed Joseph Cheaney - beautiful classic but affordable shoes.
Cheaney is really a gem.
Also Loake - I've had a few lovely pairs over the years - they are classic style and wear very well
Especially at the factory shop
Santoni gets an F?? You mad lad.
Hand made, hand painted in Italy with patinas nowhere else to be found, Goodyear welt, extremely soft and high quality leathers and suede, unique designs, lifetime repair guaranteed and when on sale they cost 500€. Shoes that are going to last literally more than the person who buys them. Plus the prices you showed are referring to real crocodile leather and extremely limited editions.
Yeah, I was surprised at that rating. I think C would have been way more appropriate. I got a pair of their fringe loafers on sale for around $270 and they're the best pair of shoes I own, but even at the normal $700 they're good
I think he's referring mainly to the Santoni shoes that are readily available in the US at department stores like Nordstrom or Neiman Marcus. And with these, you get a comparatively lower-end, blake-stitched shoe for a ridiculous 700-800 US dollars.
To me, the quality looks to be on par with shoes from To Boot New York or Magnanni, yet at double the price of those.
Santoni aren’t handmade 🤣🤣🤣 unless you pay 2000$ for them. There are much better Italian shoes out there.
@@DemetriosLevi I know right. At least C. Personally I never pay for full price because every single brand is charging crazy money. When on sale and especially 40% and over they are the best shoes you can get. Other than that is all about individual taste.
@@kaikaichen My hand dyed blake-stitched loafers have just arrived from Santoni and they look, feel and walk phenomenally. I paid 450 euros which can be a lot of money for someone but I got what I was looking for in return and that for me is priceless.
I think TLB Mallorca holds its own against alot of brands. Even ones more expensive. High quality to price ratio.
LGBTQ Mallorca
I hope this year we'll get a video on Sven's clothes collection.
This channel is a great resource for us. Cheers from Western Canada!
As a Northamptonian myself, I’m glad to see our flag is still flying in the dress shoe world despite years of concern about the Northampton shoe industry
Got three pairs of barkers shoes I’m really happy with. Crockett and Jones at £540 would be my absolute limit for what I a, willing to spend on shoes.
There are some no brainer options that are obviously missing here which seems odd but Meccariello offers RTW ranges that would make these shoes blush. Acme shoemaker does a huge RTW line of handmade shoes. Carmina, TLB. I get some of these brands I just mentioned are borderline $500, but if Allen Edmonds independence is being considered a $500 shoe, then the ones I listed above all clearly meet the margin of error being used for this list.
@@tjjohnson6772 thanks brother! Much appreciated
Gaziano & Gerling and John Lobb Paris have to be #1 and #2 on my list!
Nice compilation. You also need to look into the new wave of high end shoemakers such as Antonio Meccariello, Norman Vilalta and Paolo Scafora. The product they offer at their price points will put all incumbents to shame.
Sadly, we have not had a chance to test one of their shoes.
@@gentlemansgazette it is the definitive holy trinity of high end shoemaking currently IMO, and I have had experience with many of the names on your list. Give them a try, you won’t regret it
I own both Gaziano & Girling and Saint Crispins MTO on their personalized last option, so I speak from personal experience having owned both, and Saint Crispins is miles ahead of Edward Green, G&G, Enzo Bonafe and the like. it's quite strange to see them on the same tier as Allen Edmonds and under G&G when they're hand lasted, hand welted, and their MTO service comes in wayyy below G&G's MTO service price wise.
Thanks for providing your own experience; we're happy to have viewers share opinions that differ from ours.
- Preston
@Utsav Gautam definitely agree !
Shoes made in Romania are always less expensive. Lobb has the best leather, period.
You can even see that within our team how we graded the Higher end AE line, differed quite a bit. I have two pairs of St Crispin shoes.
@@gentlemansgazette I understand, I personally own both G&G and Saint Crispins purchased new, and Saint Crispins is on another level for sure.
I don't really get the Santoni criticism. I love the designs they are very sleek and stylish. I own 1 pair and that's all the dress shoes I have (im an adolescent) and I absolutely fell in love with them from the start. So what exactly puts them in the D-? Maybe we have different priorities in shoes, that you judge by the amount of craftsmanship and I judge by the sharpness of the design? I am trying to get a grasp of the world of men's classic dressing hehe.
He is just being a passionate hater
grew up in Wisconsin, so it's always been Allen Edmunds for me! :)
This was a very nice selection of brands. It’s interesting to see different perspectives on some of these, and even within your team, how some liked a brand maybe more than others. There are some brands I wish you would’ve included like Bontoni or Antonio Meccariello or Norman Vilalta for example. I know it’s impossible to include all of them though because the video would be extremely long. Another interesting one I have experience with is Justin Fitzpatricks shoes. His catalogue to shop from is huge and he offers some pretty unique options with some custom mto stuff as well. Shoepassion has some nice ones and so does Carmina. I have been indulging in Carmina’s custom program which basically allows you to choose a lots of options, like a mto program that’s pretty in depth.
I agree with Vass being on the top of this list, they're shoes are almost always under $500, and they have wonderful lasts and craftsmanship. There is also an option to get b grade shoes with minor defects and those can be had for around $350. In my opinion, Vass undoubtedly provides the best shoe for the money, and It's the shoe I would recommend to anyone below the bespoke shoe price range. Some brands that have been gaining attention have been TLB Mallorca as well as Yeosall, I haven't tried them out personally so I'd like to see your review before I drop the cash.
Again I would love to say thank you to everyone at the Gentleman's Gazette for these wonderful videos, while I'm a bit more fashion-forward in regards to classical style ( I wear pinstripe or black jackets instead of a regular navy blazer). I really do appreciate everything you guys do and have taught me. Here's a quick tip for those who are more fashion-forward however, learn the rules and acquire the basic garments of classical menswear, and then and only then should you branch outside the traditional. From time to time try a black blazer instead of navy, or get a pinstripe jacket and put that on with grey pants. Do it right and I promise you won't look like an idiot.
I think a video that many of us want to see is the best shoe regardless of the price video (including, rtr, mtm and bespoke). It's nice to have a holy grail to save up for.
Good topic and video. Would you consider doing another video with shoe brands under $500? Some brands I suggest ranking include Allen Edmonds (not their Independence Collection), Loake, TLB Mallorca, Carmina, Sons of Henrey, Thomas Bird, Beckett Simonon, Meermin, Jack Erwin, Ace Marks, Thursday Boot Company, Velasca, Anthony Veer, CNES, J. Fitzpatrick, and Taft, to name a few.
Got a pair of Santoni's oxfords for just over $200 from a shop that was closing due to the pandemic. Best shoes I've ever owned, it's mind blowing that they would retail for so much more
They do retail for crazy money but if you can get your hands on one on sale then 🔥
Love to see JM Weston and RM Williams SIGNATURE line.
Whenever someone talks trickers they talk country shoes/boots but I'm a really big fan of their town shoes. I've got three pairs, the lasts work well on me and the materials are fantastic. Their online outlet store is always well stocked and their CS is great. love that brand.
trickers were the brand that got me into menswear. i saw a beautiful pair of their patinad green shoes and although ill never own them as they were a limited production run, i aspire to one day own a pair of shoes that will match them. they also looked comfortably wide in their profile too.
I think there are many many many makers that can replace some brands in the list. Acme and Gordon Jimjun of China, many Japanese makers like Yohei Fukuda and Siroeno Yosui.
I think yearn will be my next high end shoe purchase
We have to try out all the others...
Really surprised to not see Carmina on the list. Hopefully, you'll give us your take on the brand.
They aren't generally over $500
@@jungeunji8289 Just to verify, I went over their website. Half of the product line is at or north of $500.
I agree. Why no Carmina? Especially since they all recently reviewed their shoes??
@fgfghjkggdfdghjfgfjh and all boots, which is one of their main/most popular products
@@alexl8328 Agreed. Also a shame they didn't include TLB. I'm guessing it's because they don't own any TLB...
At those prices I would rather go for TLB Mallorca, Carmina or, on a higher budget, Antonio Meccariello. Thanks for this content anyway!
Mmmmm ... Carmina ...
TLB!! Their customer service is beyond outstanding as well as their shoes!
Tricker’s and Alden is my way! I have more than dozen of pairs, and some of them they are 25-30 years, shoes that age in a fantastic way.
I'm glad you included the Gucci loafer. I know, it's a fashion brand, but the 1953 loafer is an exception. It's blake stitched so will never win over die hard shoe nerds, but then again, if they were Goodyear welted they wouldn't have the same sleek look. After all, the styling of a shoe is very important for most.
I have plenty of Gucci dress shoes that works great for me
Excellent video. JM Winston deserves to be there as well as Carmina
Would like to see the tier list of handwelted bespoke shoes as well.
Thanks for the clear, concise and informative content as always.
Continue to inspire the men of this generation. 👍
This material has aged quite well. It would be nice to have an update with champions like Yohei Fukuda and JM Weston
I also agree with your opinions on Tricker's. I think they are the best country shoes.
I live in Kazakhstan, so most of the listed brands aren't available here. There's a really good local shoe brand that makes dress sneakers, winter boots and other shoes that are on the more casual side. It's called Zshoes if I'm not mistaken, and they operate from Astana.
If you have enough experience and education, John Lobb and Corthay always be the top of the hill
Will you please do an entire episode on tweeds and other similar fabrics? The history, the best makers, and the alternatives like silk, linen, bamboo, or flax tweed style blends and fabrics.
nice overview, I agree mostly though alden has some extremely elegant shoes but really bad marketing so few people know them
I enjoyed this video very much. Thank You. I have a pair of Cleverly shoes made to copy a British style WW2 service shoe in looks and out of Scotch Grain. I got these circa 2005. I remember the cost was $315 and they were from the cheaper line. They had a middle line for the $570ish range and bespoke started at $2000 or so. One of the most comfortable shoes I ever wore. I wore out the leather soles and heals and put a vibram medium lug sole in them and wore those out as well and resoled them in Vibrams again. Still going strong and I keep them polished and they are still casual presentable as a walker or with jeand or khakis. I know you dont like Vibrams but I always thought a military shoe was the exception to the rule.
Love it! Surprised not to see viberg? They’re great too! Also love Vass. Would love to see a similar video on watches. Great content!
Somewhat surprised to not see Viberg on this thread.. would be curious to see how they rank …
Rozsnyai makes a great handwelted RTW shoe with many, many lasts. They have their Budapesters, but their standard styles are much sleeker. I prefer the MTO because the more extravagant style is not for me, but the shoes are great. Also, Marc Guyot does a great shoe if one is really into that Golden Age look.
This is going to be a fantastic video! Thanks in advance, Sven!
Thanks for the amazing video. Can you make a video about: How to wear navy dress shoes?
Love section on Vass and thanks for the background re Ugolini and the welts he designed
Thank you for another great video. I feel you would have included Norman Vilalta and Antonio Meccariello lines if you had extensive wear experience with them. Both coming to RTW with strong experience in Bespoke shoemaking. It would also be informative if one day you could make a video of maybe 15 best dress boots above $500. I have seen many of your videos and learned so much.
You rated Allen Edmunds above Alden? No way
a video on the $300-500 would be nice. i would also be interested in greater detail on good options for those of us who have wide feet, or who walk a lot and need the extra room for comfort and foot swell.
I really miss Stefano Branchini from Bologna, Italy… Besides that there are several Dutch brands like Greve and Van Bommel that provide good shoes around that price level.
I own several pairs on the list. My favorite pair that I own are from Gaziano & Girling. I even have a 20 plus year old pair of Ferragamo’s that have been resoled several times. I’m guessing quality has changed with the years. Corthay Arca is next on my list to buy. A few shoes that you didn’t mention Berluti (I do think you talked about them in a Q&A talk), J.M. Weston, Paolo Scafora, Bentoni and Norman Vilalta.
Crockett and jones under neath Allen Edmonds independent line is a sin. Owning multiple of both I sold of most of my Allen Edmonds independent and regular shoes. Only kept some boots.
Couldn’t agree more! I own over 8 pair of AE and they have progressively gotten worse in creation / wear / and customer service. My C&J on the other hand are on a noticeable next level
Yeah I'd love to see some lower end goodyear welted shoes like loakes and barker get some attention, at these price points it is more likely to see fashion brands blurring the lines if quality in the $300 area
@fgfghjkggdfdghjfgfjh soles are soles, personally I would happily buy an ideal shoe with zero quality soles for £200 less than the same shoe with nice soles. Though I can see how in a vast collection, where they wouldn't get worn through very quickly, the wrong soles and the cost of resoling could impact a decision to purchase. Like tires on a car whilst not being a dealbreaker for one's dream car, is definitely an annoying extra expense.
Watch a video on vass being taken apart and the heel stack was part fiber board😢 I hope this isn’t the norm because the rest was great
You should be embarrassed for dismissing Saint Laurent while sounding like you've never even worn any of their shoes or boots. You have a clear lack of understanding regarding what the brand does, its history with shoes, the types of leather used and the regions sourced from, the way they are constructed, and the types of people they are made for. Just admit you don't understand anything that isn't considered traditional or conservative.
Disagree about Santoni as a whole. Very good GY welted and phenomenal Limited editions to be had.
estetethics and tempo are just right...keep on, and thank you
My Allen Edmonds size is 10.5 D. Given my Allen Edmonds size, do you know the equivalent size for an F last model of Vass? I love these videos; keep up the good work.
Allen Edmonds is a great way to get men to look at getting into Goodyear welt shoes.
Very interesting and well done. Especially VASS being recognized. It would be nice if we could try on those shoes in New York City. I would love to see $350-$500 range. What about Viberg shoes? Love this series!
Great video. I wish you had included Carmina and Carlos Santos shoes.
Extremely surprising that he didnt include either of those. (Along with TLB Mallorca)...these easily represent the best Quality to Price ratio
Excellent and very informative! What are your thoughts on Berluti?
This was good and well presented.
that's a curious ranking
been wearing Santoni for over a decade, and only had to resole the first pairs just about now, their soles are virtually indestructible, granted their US retail prices are ridiculous, as they are for Ferragamo, but more than them later
Santoni's Goodyear welted shoes are, in my experience, made far better than ie Crocket and Jones while retailing for just 100$ more (in Europe), and if you can get them during their 50% off sale, they are a no-brainer among the Italian brands, one has to like their patinas and extroverted details though
regarding Ferragamo, most of the models sold in the US have an incredibly low quality to price ratio, whereas in Europe, you can pick up their Goodyear welted "tramezza" line anywhere from 800 to 1200, and they too will last forever with the conservative design to match
always entertaining to watch your videos, keep making them 👍
Everybody is complaining about the Santoni ranking. This lad was just mad while making this video. Santoni on sale is an A!
Great reviews! Saint Crispins and Vass are my preferred brands.
Recently bought a pair of Saint Crispin's at 70% off. Beautiful shoes. Obviously super happy with them. A+!
Excellent video! I’d love to see your take on Moreschi shoes by the way.
Another excellent video. Great concept as another viewer mentioned.
I pick up all my shoes in thrift stores. It's rare when it happens but at times you can find some really nice stuff that looks unworn. I have found Loake, Barker, Joseph Cheaney and Church's all for under £20 and like new. Other than that I just grab any sneakers that look half decent and are cheap. I see no point in spending a fortune on things that get worn out so quickly. I would be bankrupt within a year with the amount of walking I do!
Dude, I thought I was smoking with all my Allen Edmonds but I'm just a peasant.
Take a look at Heschung shoes, a brand out of France, Alsace-Lorraine.
Also, I am curious to know what the hallmarks of an "Austro-Hungarian" shoes? What makes them different, aesthetically, from British shoes?
Heschung boots are incredible
A Tier List!! More of these :)
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on the Barkers, Cheaney, Loake brands.
Me too. I just received a lovely pair of Loake semi brogues. They are called Woodstock. They are Burgundy with a polished toe and the vamp of the shoe is grain. They look and feel so good. They are also me first rubber soled shoe from Loake. I tried Herring shoes for a change but the quality is sadly very poor for the price. I am a pensioner so I need good value for what I pay. I know Loake are not considered high end in shoes, but they’re good enough for me. I’ve had a few compliments on the brown Oxfords pair I bought off eBay for £40. I am cautious of the law of diminishing returns, so I doubt if I would buy from Gaziano Girling even if I had the money.
No Carmina? or Cobbler Union?
Always surprised I never see JM WESTON mentioned. High quality and value.
My wife’s family is from Bologna so Enzo Bonafé is sentimental in that regard. I love their button boots.
Brooks Brothers has had shoes made for them by Alden, Alfred Sargent and Crockett & Jones.
Great video! Might want to send your shoes to Preston Soto of The Elegant Oxford to buff out the scuffs on the toes.
He got some at the heelcaps too. Well one doesn't need a youtuber to care for ones shoes better then that. Dad would have given me the belt but for sure no compliments ;)
John Lobb’s Prestige collection are very lovely looking shoes, that elevate their RTW with lovely waists, better quality leather and construction than their standard RTW offering. That said £1650 is just ridiculous - I own two pairs because I love the style, but they aren’t where I would usually spend my money.
If I was going to spend that kind of money again, I would choose Edward Green every day of every week - the quality of the leather, the quality of the construction is on a different planet and they’re £700 cheaper. My pair are just beautiful - as perfect a pair of shoes you could ever want - the leather is better than any I have owned otherwise.
Church’s simply aren’t what they used to be - they’re on par with Trickers, Loake etc., maybe even a tad better, but they want the same price as Edward Green and that is just insane to me.
Loake are excellent for the price, but make sure you get the ones still made in Northampton.
But don’t listen to me - this man is the absolute pro.
Any thoughts on Moreschi and Rossetti and being an Aussie are there any Australian brands apart from our RM Williams worth knowing about ?
This reminds me of carl murawski's channel, you check it out, there's a whole playlist on goodyear welts and deep analysis
Great video! There is one brand which could be placed in the A- Region which’s missing: Carmina from Mallorca/Spain
Video about boot brands ranking 50-200 euro will be interesting too
Hmm I'm not sure Santoni ranks there - I own a couple pairs of dress shoes priced around 1500USD but as long as you take good care, they're absolutely fantastic. The construction is fair and the designs are subtle, yet affordable and doesn't go to the 5000plus range like some do.
I don't really see why it's rated badly...
Would love to see your review on some of the other English brands like Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb London, etc. Glad you covered Santoni. I tried on a pair of their cap toe oxfords and was unsure where their quality was at. Thank you also for reviewing Alden. I'm tired of spending money on things like shoes that don't always last as long as I would like. Just about all of my shoes wore out at the same time, and now I'm planning on replacing each pair with some that may last the rest of my life. Buy less, but buy better.
Love the grading system!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Would be interesting to hear your views on Antonio Meccariello, Stefano Bemer, Paolo Scafora, New & Lingwood, Loake, JM Weston, Carmina, Carlos Santos, Zegna?
Great if you could cover Stefano Bemer, Paulo Scafora, Norman Vilalta, Yohei Fukuda and Antonio Macariello.
Ugh... I was wanting to find a cheaper replacement for my Crockett & Jones Coniston boots - and thanks to your video I now want a pair of Edward Green Galway boots...
Id like to mention an up and coming brand from india named Bridlen, they offer great value for the quality and material in the shoe, their top line "the founders line" offers J&FJ outsoles and a free brass toe tap option :)
Hi, enjoyed the video....an update: Alfred Sargent is no longer! Paul Sargent (family) are now moving forward what AF started....
Thanks you for the video. I would be glad that you talk about one of my country's brand : Paraboot ; which deserves an A for their quality/price range.
Amazing video... I think this was first time that you spoke of such a vast range of shoe brands. Yes! there are many brands still out there that maybe deserve to be mentioned. Just a recommendation, please do try to visit Justin Fitzpatrick when ever you are in New York. He makes some amazing shoes which are a level above TLB, Carmina and Allen Edmonds. You have great taste in shoes and I Think you will really like them in every aspect. Thanks for making these videos.
I'd like to see your opinions of the product line from Oak Street Bootmakers.