My CR-10 3D Printer - Creality 3D Printer
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2024
- Here's a detailed look at my Creality CR-10 3D printer that I use for making thing's, including how it works, how to set up a print, and some of the things I've printed.
The Tiny Machines 3D's video for assembling it is at:
• Creality CR-10 Assembl...
The Filament Guide and Wire Clip is at:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:218...
This video was made possible in part by these Patreon supporters:
Jonathan Rieke
Printable Science
Robert Büchel
Support RimstarOrg on Patreon www.patreon.com/user?u=680159
or make a one-time donation at rimstar.org/donate_support_rim...
Subscribe so that you don't miss new videos as they come out czcams.com/users/rimstaror...
Go to the main channel page here / rimstarorg
If you're buying a CR-10 then consider using one of the links below. One is for a US plug and the other is for an EU plug. It'll cost you nothing extra and you'll be helping support RimstarOrg, this CZcams channel.
Creality3D CR - 10 3D Printer - US PLUG BLUE
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
Creality3D CR - 10 3D Desktop DIY Printer - EU PLUG COFFEE AND BLACK
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
See also:
3D Printing a Bicycle Chain Sprocket
• 3D Printing a Bicycle ...
Making BB-8 (v2) - Painting/Details/LEDs - Part 5
• Making BB-8 (v2) - Pai...
The CR-10 webpage on rimstar.org:
rimstar.org/science_electroni...
Follow behind-the-scenes on:
Twitter #!/RimStarz
Google+ plus.google.com/1163951251362...
Facebook / rimstarorg
rimstar.org
The Anet A8 modifications shown at 0:35 are used under Fair Use from:
Anet A8 3D printer upgrades part 1
• Anet A8 3D printer upg... - Věda a technologie
Great video! One of these days I'll settle down and take my new 3D printer out of storage to use it.
Yep, high quality vids for sure. Gotta subscribe. Thanks for the time and energy you put into the vids, man!
Man I love your videos, I have been watching since 4 years, keep doing what u do, though I would love some more tesla coil and wireless electricity videos, and I'm always ready for more radio videos, good luck on you success!
Cheers
Thanks! Spark gap Tesla coils are too loud for my place so I've stopped doing those. Solid state Tesla coils are too expensive when you break the parts, so I've decided to not try those either (I was planning to at one time since they're quieter). Thanks for watching all these years! I'll keep them coming.
RimstarOrg whatever you love to do, keep doing it
Well presented and easily understood! Well Done!!
Ive got a CR-10s as well. It is phenomenal. I would recommend getting a Lokbuild build surface as well to avoid using tape. Glad you are still active cuz you are a great channel.
Got interested in your channel after watching your small spark gap tesla coil tutorial and made one myself.
Thanks. Very useful video
Great job introducing 3D printing. I used to use Sketchup and OpenSCAD, but I love Fusion360 now. Its parametric modelling allows me to quickly tweak dimensions without having to redo anything. Its timeline feature allows me to back in time to make edits to the model without having to do a bunch of undo / redo or start over. I do not have any experience with Blender so I do not know how it compares to Fusion360. Welcome to the incredible world of 3D printing!
One of the few modifications that i found worth it for 3d printer are to install auto bed leveling and octoprint running on raspberry pi btw my printer is Anet A8.
I check with the paper to see if I need leveling everytime I start a new print but it turns out to be not very often. If it was more often then I'd start with adding bigger knobs to turn as I originally intended to, and then I'd probably move on to auto bed leveling too. So far so good though.
TinkerCAD works great for me as I'm usually designing simple pieces on a time limit.
I use DesignSpark which is free from RS Components. I've used 2D cad for many years and this was the easiest transition into the 3D world for me.
Oh, there is a few upgrades you will need on this printer and one is almost a must is the travel path of the filament into the extruder because issues can happen right next to Z axis rod. For tal/large prints there is wobble so you need to print a couple of stabilizers and if you care about quality a second Z axis rod is added and one motor turns both (the two motors one control channel is not nearly as good). Been a subscribers for eons so glad you got one of these.
I've done the filament guide mod (see 2:56). All my prints have been shortish so far. My first tall ones will probably when I get into artificial hands with arms, then I guess I'll need the mods. Thanks for watching all these years!
Thank you for doing your videos (though you were absent for a bit of time) and continuing to do them.
Nice video. Try Elmer's Glue Sticks directly on the glass, no tape needed.
CncObsession yes and it’s easier to replace
Another option it hair spray
When I run out of places to print on the current tape then I'll try bare glass (heated of course). If that doesn't work out, as it probably won't, then I'll look into the blue tape, glue or hair spray approaches.
Nice video , I have the smaller model "Ender 3" . They are both made by Creality . . I love it . . I use Blender too . Ya can't beat the pair . . You can make almost anything you want . . I've been printing non-stop , so I bought another Creality Ender 3 . . 2 Printers is the way to go . .
Sometimes I print objects in 2 or more pieces , then glue them together. Twice as fast and can solves a lot printing issues that need support.
Thanks. These definitely are nice printers. I've had no regrets and they make it possible to make more things. Regarding gluing together, sometimes that's the only solution, unless you want to tear away a lot of support material. But even then, I once made something that was too delicate and couldn't survive the removal of the support material so I had to make two pieces and glue them together (you can see it here czcams.com/video/DY4as7Lc9KY/video.html). I print PLA and use a cyanoacrylate glue (super glue). What do you use?
Hi everyone I have to replace a 2wires
12v fan blue/yellow by a 3 wires red/black/yellow. What should I connect
to my blue/yellow please? I guess it is the red and the black but i'd
like to be sure...Tks a lot
I use fusion 360 it’s free if you’re an educator or student and it works great
I also use Fusion 360. Before that I used freeCad which was okay but had a few bugs and wasn't very beginner friendly in my opninion. But Fusion 360 not only looks nice, but I also find it very intuitive to work with. Can highly recoomend it to anyone.
Btw... You DON'T have to be an educator or student to get it for free! You can sign up as a startup or an enthusiast!
Make anything did a video on it: czcams.com/video/PVFoBR4ceSk/video.html
Ugh, F360 is so non intuitive in how it does things that I just stick with my old version of Solidworks.
The Best Stooge compared to freeCad I think it's very intuitive. But maybe that says more about freeCad than it says about fusion 360 then.. :P
I tried freecad once, lol. Seriously it was pretty esoteric. I just wish Solidworks had a similar model as F360 but that company is all about the money and would rather DIAF than to do something like that. They lock companies into their horribly expensive yearly fees (like Adobe does) and could care less about anything else. If we could take the best F360 features with the best SW features and have it with the same fee model I would jump onboard.
Heyy there [FULLNAME]!! Love love love your channel🔥
Thanks Kelsi! -Steve
Can this 3d printer be modified to mount a dremel like spindle and become a mini cnc milling machine?
Theoretically, yes. Though if you want to use the same control electronics then you'll probably have to do some trickery. For example, the electronics is monitoring the nozzle and bed thermistors. The gcode files that I mentioned that the slicer program writes out and that goes on the microSD card for the control electronics to use is just a text file with gcode commands, commands that do things like tell the motors how to move. So it shouldn't be too hard to come up with the gcode to make the motors move moving the dremel around in the way you'd want. Here's a sample of the first few lines of a gcode file. You can see some temperature information (60, 220) as well as movement commands.
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:1839
;Filament used: 1.854m
;Layer height: 0.25
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.1.0
M190 S60
M104 S220
M109 S220
M82 ; absolute extrusion mode
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
I'm using FreeCAD. It's open source and free!
Try just using the glass with hairspray, not that tape, after your part cools, it will easily pop right off. Happy printing!
Thanks. I'm waiting until I've worn out the tape before I experiment with other approaches. The first will be to try with just glass alone.
Yes, that's what I meant. When you use just glass, plus hairspray as an adhesion, the bottom of your prints will look glossy like glass, not that rough unattractive finish with tape... and it's easier to remove!
3dmax isnt an engineering software but it works out amazing for modelling
I bought 3d printer & printed the 3d printer & returned it back.
I'm learning solidworks
I want one but wow there pricey nowadays.......Really like to have a metal 3D printer i could quit my job and start my own business and Life.......
220C for PLA? Try 185-190C
What are you using for the print surface?
Tape on aluminum like you. I set the bed to 70C and get great adhesion. Maybe you need to degrease your tape with alcohol? ABS needs around 220C. PLA needs just 185C. My printer is www.amazon.ca/Prusa-i3-Aluminium-Structure-stability/dp/B01NBF6MHZ
Doh, I just realized I was asking you about your bed when you were talking about the extruder temperature. I see now that there's a range that works for PLA (180-220) and I've been using the top of it. I'll try it lower. Thanks.
I set slic3r to print the first layer really slowly and thicker than other layers and that seems to help avoid adhesion problems, too. Really like your videos and I show them to my kids.