Hey Aaron. I’ve found myself looking forward to these videos lately. Your cheerful, mellow enthusiasm is a very welcome diversion from everything going on right now. Keep on picking!
True. I also email ed warmoth and told them Aaron is providing a great public service helping us stay sane. Everyone watching should email Warmoth to thank them for allowing him to continue this at home.
Carl Smith I have some funny on my channel if you’re interested- Just The Jokes series. Putting them out now for just the reason you mentioned. We all need a lift right now. Aaron is great
Easy Tip #372: if you have no chamfer bit, no problem. Chuck a 3/8" to 1/2" drill bit in your drill *and set the drill to run backwards*. Place the point of the drill in the screw hole, apply light pressure to keep the drill in the hole, and slowly run the drill backwards. Friction will pare away the finish and there's no danger of chipping the finish.
Who would grease up a melon other than for some unusual sexual fetish??? lol mind boggling. Not saying I have ever done such a thing... Just saying lol.
I'm waiting for a video on developing the abdominal fortitude to take a drill to guitar parts that you just spent so much money on and look so beautiful.
Hi Aaron, thank you for the very important notes on how to drill into the body of the guitar, especially with a gloss lacquere. Warmoth uses a relatively thick layer of very hard lacquer and if you do not use a bevel drill bit after drilling holes, you always have almost 100% certainty that the inserted screw causes web crack in lacquere which is always visible and cannot be easily repaired. The same problem with a spider web crack can occur when fitting string ferrules. The second important note concerns the lubrication of the screw with paraffin or wax for the correct tightening of the screw in case of predrilled holes too - neck screws when you install neck into the guitar body and so on. My personal tip, for example when installing a string retainers on a headstock, is to drill a test hole into a piece of other wood of roughly the same hardness and see if the screw can be tightening correctly without force. There is a danger of breaking tiny screw in a hole.
Excellent. You remembered to chamfer! I also chamfer the holes I drill for pickguard screws. For the front strap button check the angle to be sure you have enough room to fit a screwdriver without hitting the neck. Otherwise you may have to take the neck off to snug down a slightly loose strap button. And do a center punch to mark the place you'll drill.
Was thinking of getting a longer screw and put a strap button in the metal plate thingy that holds the neck, and here you are showing it's a good setup👏👏 Couldn't ask for more
I like to use a cheap bar of soap, like Ivory, to lube screws. Slicker than snot, doesn't get sticky, and it's cheap and easy to find. Just rake a screw across the bar to get some soap in the threads (dry, not wet), and thats it. Doesn't take much.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Strap buttons...who knew?! Got it. Great tips. It will be easier on the next build. And, I will install them first, not last. Installation of tuning machines??? Like, how to line them up properly? I don't know...could be epic! Thanks Aaron. These home instructional videos have been really great. I hope you throw them in from time to time when this Shelter in Place business is over.
Hi Aaron I love your videos and my new thinline Warmoth Tele build. The 'Chamfer bit' you mentioned is called a countersink. The diameter must be bigger than the hole but the angle doesn't really matter in this case. Keep the videos coming and please play more. Rock on.
What are you building (if you don't mind me asking)? I'd like to build an HH Strat in Daphne Blue, with Seymour Duncan '59/TB-4, and a hard tail Fender 2 point trem.
@@killroy123 Last question...what single coils? I have a Daphne Blue Elite Strat (from the MOD Shop) with Seymour Duncan SSL-5s/SSL-5s neck and middle, with Hot Rails in the bridge. I also have a MIM Daphne Blue 50s Classic Series with SSL-1/SSL-1 neck middle, with SSL-3 in the bridge.
@@DBSG1976 Going to use Dimarzio cruisers in the neck and bridge and an area 61 in the middle. Can be run as an HSH even though the cruisers are advertised as a a single coil. I plan on doing a bunch of experiments with coil splitting, phasing, blending, etc.
I have noticed on my Schecter Hellraiser that strap button was angled toward the neck instead of being screwed straight, just like you showed in the video. I thought that was genius, it compensates for the angle the guitar will have when playing and make sure the strap stays perpendicular to the strap button, reducing the chances of the strap slipping off. I do have a guitar with the strap button installed straight that the strap slipped off the button and let the guitar fall on the floor... The aftermath was a broken tuner (which I couldn't find an identical one, it's a 80's guitar, the closest tuner I could find had the screw in a different location, had to go with that), a cracked nut, a broken toggle switch, and of course, a nice dent on the headstock. Had the strap button been installed at an angle, it could've potentially prevented this sad event. Although now all my guitars has Schaller strap locks installed, so I don't have to worry about the strapped detaching anymore, and it also make it very easy to take the strap on and off
I use Schaller strap locks and buttons and always install the upper strap button straight. It puts less stress on the button and the strap lock and they will wear more slowly. The button on the rear of the body hardly wears at all but that upper button will wear out quicker especially if you install it like the video recommends. Lubricating the screw is a good idea. If the holes get worn I insert a few flat toothpicks with a bit of Elmer's glue on them one at a time and break them off flush with the body. Let the glue set for a little bit and install the strap button. Works great and gives you a nice, snug fit.
Thanks Aaron! I really look forward to your videos everyday. You seem like a super nice dude. Warmoth is lucky to have you. Keep the videos coming. I love your enthusiasm. Watching your videos makes for a great ending to my day.
I have some funny on my channel if you’re interested- Just The Jokes series. Putting them out now for just the reason you mentioned. We all need a lift right now. Aaron is great
Jay Brovey has got a great Idea about making a guitar from scratch. To show ordering process and how that body and neck are made and then assembly. Thx again for the great vid. I personally live flush mounted strap locking system from Dunlop.
Hey Aaron! Awesome job on these vids from home! They are a real pleasure to watch, and you keep them interesting. I have 4 strap lock/button tips that I've used on all of my Warmoth builds (except one, and there's a reason why) with success. 1) Dunlop verses Schaller..DEFINITELY Schaller! Dunlops have failed me in the past MANY times, and guitars have fallen off while playing live. If Dunlops don't completely click into place (it's hard to tell in a loud environment like a bar and you can't hear the 'click') you're screwed. Schallers have the extra cup that at least holds the strap button if, for some reason, it fails to click. It's like a back up support. Dunlops are also noisier as you move around...not great for recording. Schallers are more snug. 2) DO NOT purchase "Schaller Style" strap buttons that are so rampant on ebay and other sites. The knock offs are made of cheap metal. I LITERALLY had a set CRUMBLE apart in my bare hands while installing them. Thank God I didn't rely on them to support the weight of my guitar! Original Schallers from Germany ONLY! 3) In the past, when not using a wireless, I've had bandmates, or myself, step on my cable on stage, pulling UNREASONABLY hard on the strap button...occasionally yanking them out of the body on stage! (Like you, I move around a lot while playing). What I have done is purchased extra long strap button screws separately! I don't know the length, but they are about an extra half length added to a standard strap button screw length. Personally, I think the added teeth gripping the wood is worth the extra few bucks. I also add a touch of wood glue when I insert them instead of wax. They are still removable once the glue dries (I want them permanent personally), but it prevents them from loosening on their own over time...which has happened to me as well. I get all set up for a gig, pick up my guitar to tune up, and suddenly realize the strap button screw has loosened without my knowing, and now the strap button is flopping around. A dab of wood glue keeps that from happening. I also put a little drop of crazy glue on the outer nut of the strap portion of the strap lock. That nut tends to loosen over time, and the dab of crazy glue prevents that from happening, but you can still loosen it with a wrench if needed. 4) The reason I don't use longer strap button screws on one of my Warmoths (a tele I just built) is that Schaller has recently changed their strap lock design, and you have to use the screw that is now permanently part of the unit. The new design offers some upgrades, but doesn't allow for using longer screws anymore. I like the older ones better. Maybe these tips will be helpful to someone. Cheers, Aaron, and thanks!
Get what's called an "aircraft drill bit." These are 12" long and available from Amazon and in the US at Lowes, Home Deep-o, etc. The 1/8" diameter works great, and is also useful for drilling wire tunnels in the body.
Maior and minor diameters in screw. Finish my Chambered Walnut Telecaster Deluxe with Gibson scale maple/rosewood neck. Its all Warmoth so I put the stickers on it. 10-16 neck finished 7-11-24 finished Guitar guitar maybe string trees
Gretsch sadly often uses those lame ass strap buttons you have to unscrew completely to get a strap on, and then screw it in tightly to make sure the strap doesn't come lose. GOD DAMN it takes ten times longer than putting a strap on a strat lol. Gretch design also sucks because over time it can strip out the body wood and require filler material to make up for the strip out. PAIN IN THE ASS! I shouldn't have to do this to a 3000 dollar guitar... Just saying... I'm not exactly in the mood to put wood puddy from home depot in my limited edition falcon or Stephen stern custom shop master built corvette 1 of 7 ever made...... For obvious reasons lol. Luckily though gretsch doesn't always use these stap buttons. Their new players editions don't which is great! And you can always swap out the buttons for better ones... Even though that's sometimes more difficult said than done since some sizes of buttons wont allways fit depending on the guitar model. Wish I knew these details before buying gretsches lol. Some of the best guitars ever made but still... Nothing is perfect. Some designs are just not practical in many ways lol. Yes I know... Pain in the ass lol. And your tell has a drill bit stuck inside of it... Hilarious. Lol my 98 strat has a screw broken off in the head stock for what should have been a string tree. I covered it and no ones the wiser luckily lol. I was fucking pissed when it happened. Fuckin screw broke off clean as fuck with no way of getting it out without further damaging the head stock. I was so furious until I found a sound solution. I got these black fuzzy things bracing the underside of the string tree which give it a nice touch and cover the old mistake. It's a black headstock so it's hard to see the damage anyways luckily. Advice? Make sure your screws are not cheap weak crap. Same thing with your drill bits apparently lol. Buyer beware... But yeah man... More power to us lol. Folks who have metal in their wood where it shouldn't be lololol.
LOL...I just got my Soloist one piece Korina body from you guys...It is amazing! Keep up he good work Aaron (and of course the rest of the Warmoth staff)
Have you considered a guitar with a Daphne Blue finish like a Strat or a second soloist? Daphne Blue goes great with Surf Green. I really appreciate the daily uploads, have you considered covering pot replacements, thanks.
I like to use Cherry Chap Stick to lubricate my screws. 'Cause I like the smell, and it fits nicely in my toolbox. I have used it for lubricating tuning machines too.
That's sadly something hard to fix. It is possible to reshape wood with heat so long as the ding isn't bigger than a dime or so... But if there is a finish.... Good luck lol. You might make things worse if there is a finish... Perhaps hire someone to do body rework and refinish... I did it once. Cost me about 450 to get a ceramic coat which is the newest fancy stuff that's going to put wax jobs out of commission. Ceramic coats are the best. Can't scratch or ding it without trying real hard. It acts like a permanent wax job. Lil pricy to get that coat though... Cost me a extra 50 bucks. He sanded it down, filled in the dings, painted over it with paint of my choosing, and then gave it the ceramic coat treatment as well. Took about 2 months and then I got it back after I shipped it to him. Like I said... Pricy... Prolly something I wont do again or at least not for a while... It did work out great though. I say just live with dings and scratches. Nothing is perfect anyways and the worn in instruments tend to make the best guitars... As the old saying goes... "Make sure you go into battle with a proven rifle" You can sand it all down and paint it yourself but you need a good place for it to cure and it's a bit of a pain in the ass and odds are you wont do as good a job as a pro since you're not a pro at body painting... There is sort of a skill distributing the paint properly so there is just the right amount all over it. Best leave it to pros in my honest opinion unless you yourself are trying to become a master guitar painter or something lol.
If it's a color paint finish, take the guitar to a store that sells nail polish and find a color that's a close match to your guitar. Clean the ding with a Q-tip dampened (not dripping) with alcohol, and then fill the ding with layers of the polish. Don't put it on thick; thin layers with dry time between. Go too thick and it will dry with an air bubble in it. Take care to apply the finish only inside the perimeter of the ding, and build up the repair so it's just above the surrounding area when fully cured. If it's a clear finish, use clear nail polish. You can wet-sand and polish the repair after three or four days of cure time.
This is what I was looking for before drilling a strat for the first time. Didn't find anything telling me about strap button on the horn pointing down. Happily my OCD drove me to a good place after watching a lot of pictures.
Awesome video Aaron, thanks! If anybody doesn't have beeswax you can use some bar soap on screw threads, works like a charm! Keep on making these videos man!
The outside of the screw thread is called "major diameter" and the inner diameter at the bottom of the thread is called the "root diameter!" They sell standard kits of bits for wood screw pilot holes to keep you from guessing.
I'm jelly. I got a kelly green strat. It's more like hulk green. But something about that seafoamy 50s and 60s wild side look... You can't hate it lol. You just gotta love that color! It looks almost radioactive.
Love these videos Aaron. Like everyone else, I hope you continue making them after we get back to "normal." Can't wait for the website to get back up... I got two more Tele bodies and necks sitting in my cart just waiting pay for!
I have some funny on my channel if you’re interested- Just The Jokes series. Putting them out now for just the reason you mentioned. We all need a lift right now. Aaron is great
Perhaps at some point, but right now I only have what is in my home to work with. It's like in Apollo 13, when ground control has to figure out how to fix the space capsule using only what the astronauts have inside with them. :)
@@warmoth Aaron this video was of great help ! An additional point is those grolsch red rubber bottle rings work just as well in place of strap locks if you're in a pinch ! . I have one quick *follow up question about neck + nut width connection as I agree with you the link between the two is inextricable* : For the neck I want : *standard thin profile neck profile and I think 11/16 43mm nut* I am wondering what is the neck width overall *AT the nut is ?* *neck width dictates what nut will suit it best no?* *I can't see any measurements on the neck profile section on The Warmoth site about this , SO therefore if I want a 1 11/16ths nut but the necks with AT the NUT is say 1 3/4ths, then wont there be too much wood on the shoulders of the fretboard or IF I choose 1 11/16ths nut then that means the standard thin neck gets cut accordingly right to that width? . I thought this was worth asking since I haven't heard anything about it any of your neck comparisons/neck profile/nut width videos so of there is an correlation between those points^ I'd be very interested to know since for example a 1 3/4ths neck width at the nut (example) sounds like it must have a 1 3/4ths nut to match it. . Really hope you see this and all that makes sense ^ please stay safe and healthy during this time and once warmoth is available to start shipping again dude to covid I'm looking forward to happily pulling the trigger. Cheers from Niagara falls Canada! 🙏😊🤟 - Adam
hi aaron! awesome stuff again. i just wanted to ask your opinion on neck shims. i just removed my 1st super cheap guitar's (j&d guitars) bolt on neck and i saw a piece of plastic, similar to those you strap around cartboards/pallets etc. dont know if you have covered this topic before, or maybe for a future video, but you were the 1st one to come in mind regarding guitar necks! anyway, take care and be safe!
Hey aaron, i thought of a comparison idea, why not compare regular headstocks and reverse headstocks? I personally would love to know the benefits or detriments that come from reversing your headstock.
Aaron, that Turquoise body is killer! I need one! Is that a natural wood “binding”? I’d like a video on the clean line option, the natural wood binding as well. Also, is that the 720 mod? It would be great to see a video when you end up building it into a full guitar!
Any advice for strap buttons on my Jackson Kelly KEX? It's a bit bulkier than the Nomad in the video and it is neck-through. No plate.🙁 Really neck heavy, which I can deal with, but it sits on me almost off to the side when I stand. I've read others have the same issue. Love the guitar though!!
I really dug the live performances you did for us. Your sweet collection of album covers made me think of Heavy Metal. Would you be up for covering "All of You" by Don Felder? I think your voice would work well on that number...
Do you ever use any strap locks? I've put Dunlop Straploks on a few guitars but I mostly just use regular buttons with Grolsch type rubber washers to help secure the strap.
LOVE THOSE NUTS. I'd put em in my mouth if I could I love those nuts so much. Seriously they kick ass. Better all around from a regular synthetic or bone nut. Sadly they don't exactly have the most vintage look but easy come easy go. Also vintage isn't always the way to go... You don't want a vintage fridge or vintage sneakers do ya? lol
Which type of straplocks and how long should the screws be for throwing the guitar around yourself like Malmsteen does? Saw someone try this in a store once and the guitar flew off into the window display rack ... o____o
Hey Aaron! I really like the idea of building a guitar from Warmoth parts, but I'm not a huge fan of the traditional neck heel. Doesn't it get in a way for your playing in higher frets? Also how helpful do you find your contoured heel option? Thank you!
When you drill a hole on the guitar, do you use a very small drill bit first before changing to the desired drill bit size? or do you just do the measurements then go straight to the size you need?
Darn I was about to offer to buy that turq body until you mentioned the strap lock finish cracking!!! :>) It is beautiful. How about a video dealing with the plus and minus of various trem systems, vintage vs Floating. Also installation of the floating trem bolts. Also a short tutorial on the battery box routing. Does Warmouth route just the box cavity or do they route the wiring tunnel as well, etc?
Fair point... But also finish cracks and dings and scratches etc... Are often kind of kool looking, not a big deal, and give the guitar more originality. So getting this guitar might not bother certain folks. It's all about how you feel about it : )
I love Warmoth videos, I'm getting very excited about ordering a custom Bass... Any chance when I call Aaron could take my order? I would love to talk to him about my plan, I feel like if anyone would be able to recognize issues with it, it'd be him for sure!
I have a question, so I recently bought a Schecter, and the strap was just drilled in to the body, like it’s literally a screw drilled in to the body...is it safe for me to remove it and can anyone recommend some budget friendly strap locks
ComfortablyNumbMusic they push against the screw after tightening which is no bueno. I don’t use any washers but felt doesn’t have as much springy push back as leather
I would put the one at the end in the regular place, and the one closest to the neck on the heel plate, as shown here: warmoth.com/blog/how-to-fix-a-neck-heavy-guitar-or-bass
I installed my Strat upper horn strap button straight in! As soon as I saw it, I realized I wanted it it the slightly downward angle. If I wanted to reposition it, do I need to fill the other hole?
I would. If you ever do carpentry work... Especially precise work like guitar work... ALWAYS PRE DRILL YOUR HOLES! Nothing more annoying than cracked split wood or crooked leaning screw heads or whatever... Use math to line up your drill hole perfectly. Use a level and them lil bubbles to help guide in str8. Position yourself firmly while drilling. Don't just do it like your putting your socks on half asleep in the morning lol. Just don't pre drill the hole too big lol. My advice? Wrap tape around your drill bit in a certain position that you desire.. That way when it's drilling you can see when the tape is about to go into the body. Use the tape as a guide to let you know when you are deep enough with your drilling. Lil tip that's worked great for me since you DON'T want to over drill or under drill. No one wants a guitar that looks like a piece of Swiss cheese........... Except maybe me now that I think about it... Sounds like a light guitar lol.
I'd like to see you perform with your cover bands. Instagram would be a great place to post covers w/out worry of copyright strikes. Do you have an Instagram account, Aaron? (Edited) Found your IG acct and followed.
@@Meritocrate If a Dunlop strap lock fails, the strap side will come out of the hole of the pin in the body. If the upper horn is angled down, like Aron shows us, it's harder for that to happen. But if you just replaced on a Strat/Music Man... And even worse if you got the guitar at an angle so the neck is higher than the body The Schaller type still rest in a U shaped "cup" with a guide that goes into a groove on the pin. So even if the spring and the locking pin on the strap side fails, the guitar will still be where it was. I've had Dunlop type fail on me, and that almost meant damage to the guitar. I've had Chinese Schaller copy fail, but no immediate risk of damage.
I just go with the usual one u commonly see. Ric puts em on all theirs... New players edition gretches do it. And I'm pretty sure fender has for the most part stuck with this too. But yes... Use strap locks if you're extra scared of dropping it. They are kind of a pain though... Just another fuckin thing you gotta mess with just to get your strap on lol.
I'd love to see a warmoth series where you go from unfinished body and neck to complete finished guitar!
Jay Brovey actually that’s a great idea for a series for them- good call!
Hey Aaron. I’ve found myself looking forward to these videos lately. Your cheerful, mellow enthusiasm is a very welcome diversion from everything going on right now. Keep on picking!
100% agree, Carl. I'm hooked! The wood comparison series was so well done. Aaron, you rock!
True. I also email ed warmoth and told them Aaron is providing a great public service helping us stay sane. Everyone watching should email Warmoth to thank them for allowing him to continue this at home.
Me too.
Carl Smith I have some funny on my channel if you’re interested- Just The Jokes series. Putting them out now for just the reason you mentioned. We all need a lift right now. Aaron is great
Easy Tip #372: if you have no chamfer bit, no problem. Chuck a 3/8" to 1/2" drill bit in your drill *and set the drill to run backwards*. Place the point of the drill in the screw hole, apply light pressure to keep the drill in the hole, and slowly run the drill backwards. Friction will pare away the finish and there's no danger of chipping the finish.
"Greased Watermelon" sounds like a great name for a new shell pink/surf green burst...
Who would grease up a melon other than for some unusual sexual fetish??? lol mind boggling.
Not saying I have ever done such a thing... Just saying lol.
I'm waiting for a video on developing the abdominal fortitude to take a drill to guitar parts that you just spent so much money on and look so beautiful.
I like the felt washers because they act as gaskets and lessen the ability of the stap buttons to work loose.
Stap buttons are for guitarists that play stuff by the band Creed.
Hi Aaron, thank you for the very important notes on how to drill into the body of the guitar, especially with a gloss lacquere. Warmoth uses a relatively thick layer of very hard lacquer and if you do not use a bevel drill bit after drilling holes, you always have almost 100% certainty that the inserted screw causes web crack in lacquere which is always visible and cannot be easily repaired. The same problem with a spider web crack can occur when fitting string ferrules.
The second important note concerns the lubrication of the screw with paraffin or wax for the correct tightening of the screw in case of predrilled holes too - neck screws when you install neck into the guitar body and so on.
My personal tip, for example when installing a string retainers on a headstock, is to drill a test hole into a piece of other wood of roughly the same hardness and see if the screw can be tightening correctly without force. There is a danger of breaking tiny screw in a hole.
Excellent. You remembered to chamfer! I also chamfer the holes I drill for pickguard screws. For the front strap button check the angle to be sure you have enough room to fit a screwdriver without hitting the neck. Otherwise you may have to take the neck off to snug down a slightly loose strap button. And do a center punch to mark the place you'll drill.
I’ve never greased a watermelon but I’m intrigued. Something to try before I die from Covid boredom.
YOLO!!!
Reminds me of The Office, where Dwight oiled the watermelon Michael was practicing on for the birth
@@BassWhiz92 I thought the same thing!
The trick with greasing a watermelon is to practice with butter. Work your way up to grease.
Mister Tee Canola Oil is a good intermediate. Just stay away from Vaseline until you’ve got a good 6 months in and a biiiiig tarp.
Was thinking of getting a longer screw and put a strap button in the metal plate thingy that holds the neck, and here you are showing it's a good setup👏👏
Couldn't ask for more
I like to use a cheap bar of soap, like Ivory, to lube screws. Slicker than snot, doesn't get sticky, and it's cheap and easy to find. Just rake a screw across the bar to get some soap in the threads (dry, not wet), and thats it. Doesn't take much.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Strap buttons...who knew?! Got it. Great tips. It will be easier on the next build. And, I will install them first, not last.
Installation of tuning machines??? Like, how to line them up properly? I don't know...could be epic!
Thanks Aaron. These home instructional videos have been really great. I hope you throw them in from time to time when this Shelter in Place business is over.
Hi Aaron I love your videos and my new thinline Warmoth Tele build. The
'Chamfer bit' you mentioned is called a countersink. The diameter must be bigger than the hole but the angle doesn't really matter in this case. Keep the videos coming and please play more. Rock on.
That strap button tip probably saved me a lot of time, trouble, and "frustration medicine" for next week, thanks!
I love how that fretboard just pops with that guitar body. Man, I can't wait to build my Warmoth.
What are you building (if you don't mind me asking)? I'd like to build an HH Strat in Daphne Blue, with Seymour Duncan '59/TB-4, and a hard tail Fender 2 point trem.
Constable 1976 ...yours basically! But SSS with 2tek bridge and super wide ebony neck
@@killroy123 Awesome!!!
@@killroy123 Last question...what single coils? I have a Daphne Blue Elite Strat (from the MOD Shop) with Seymour Duncan SSL-5s/SSL-5s neck and middle, with Hot Rails in the bridge. I also have a MIM Daphne Blue 50s Classic Series with SSL-1/SSL-1 neck middle, with SSL-3 in the bridge.
@@DBSG1976 Going to use Dimarzio cruisers in the neck and bridge and an area 61 in the middle. Can be run as an HSH even though the cruisers are advertised as a a single coil. I plan on doing a bunch of experiments with coil splitting, phasing, blending, etc.
Brilliant! I would never have thought of this! 🕺✨️
Thanks man I didn't even think about the drill.. GLAD I saw this first THANKS!
I have noticed on my Schecter Hellraiser that strap button was angled toward the neck instead of being screwed straight, just like you showed in the video. I thought that was genius, it compensates for the angle the guitar will have when playing and make sure the strap stays perpendicular to the strap button, reducing the chances of the strap slipping off.
I do have a guitar with the strap button installed straight that the strap slipped off the button and let the guitar fall on the floor... The aftermath was a broken tuner (which I couldn't find an identical one, it's a 80's guitar, the closest tuner I could find had the screw in a different location, had to go with that), a cracked nut, a broken toggle switch, and of course, a nice dent on the headstock. Had the strap button been installed at an angle, it could've potentially prevented this sad event. Although now all my guitars has Schaller strap locks installed, so I don't have to worry about the strapped detaching anymore, and it also make it very easy to take the strap on and off
I use Schaller strap locks and buttons and always install the upper strap button straight. It puts less stress on the button and the strap lock and they will wear more slowly. The button on the rear of the body hardly wears at all but that upper button will wear out quicker especially if you install it like the video recommends. Lubricating the screw is a good idea. If the holes get worn I insert a few flat toothpicks with a bit of Elmer's glue on them one at a time and break them off flush with the body. Let the glue set for a little bit and install the strap button. Works great and gives you a nice, snug fit.
Thanks Aaron! I really look forward to your videos everyday. You seem like a super nice dude. Warmoth is lucky to have you. Keep the videos coming. I love your enthusiasm. Watching your videos makes for a great ending to my day.
I have some funny on my channel if you’re interested- Just The Jokes series. Putting them out now for just the reason you mentioned. We all need a lift right now. Aaron is great
Aaron, these videos are amazing! I like seeing the other side of guitar manufacturers!
I think I am going to be watching all your videos before I order my body. Thanks Aaron!
I just finished a build and this series has me wanting to do another one right now 🤪
That turquoise with the natural back is really nice looking.
Wow, so much insight from THE PRO ! We're going to have to start calling you Mr. Enlightened. Thanks for the very useful information, Aaron.
Jay Brovey has got a great Idea about making a guitar from scratch. To show ordering process and how that body and neck are made and then assembly. Thx again for the great vid. I personally live flush mounted strap locking system from Dunlop.
There are a few positive aspects to the actual situation, one is Aaron's coming up with a new video every day.
It’s been said before but these videos are great and really let people see what a great person you are.
Arron,
Instead of chamfered bit , you can also use a tapered drill bit , easier to use and easier to avoid cam out and drilling a big hole 🎸
Aaron..nice work on the body wood test. You need to do one for necks....way more voice in the neck than the body.
Hey Aaron! Awesome job on these vids from home! They are a real pleasure to watch, and you keep them interesting. I have 4 strap lock/button tips that I've used on all of my Warmoth builds (except one, and there's a reason why) with success. 1) Dunlop verses Schaller..DEFINITELY Schaller! Dunlops have failed me in the past MANY times, and guitars have fallen off while playing live. If Dunlops don't completely click into place (it's hard to tell in a loud environment like a bar and you can't hear the 'click') you're screwed. Schallers have the extra cup that at least holds the strap button if, for some reason, it fails to click. It's like a back up support. Dunlops are also noisier as you move around...not great for recording. Schallers are more snug. 2) DO NOT purchase "Schaller Style" strap buttons that are so rampant on ebay and other sites. The knock offs are made of cheap metal. I LITERALLY had a set CRUMBLE apart in my bare hands while installing them. Thank God I didn't rely on them to support the weight of my guitar! Original Schallers from Germany ONLY! 3) In the past, when not using a wireless, I've had bandmates, or myself, step on my cable on stage, pulling UNREASONABLY hard on the strap button...occasionally yanking them out of the body on stage! (Like you, I move around a lot while playing). What I have done is purchased extra long strap button screws separately! I don't know the length, but they are about an extra half length added to a standard strap button screw length. Personally, I think the added teeth gripping the wood is worth the extra few bucks. I also add a touch of wood glue when I insert them instead of wax. They are still removable once the glue dries (I want them permanent personally), but it prevents them from loosening on their own over time...which has happened to me as well. I get all set up for a gig, pick up my guitar to tune up, and suddenly realize the strap button screw has loosened without my knowing, and now the strap button is flopping around. A dab of wood glue keeps that from happening. I also put a little drop of crazy glue on the outer nut of the strap portion of the strap lock. That nut tends to loosen over time, and the dab of crazy glue prevents that from happening, but you can still loosen it with a wrench if needed. 4) The reason I don't use longer strap button screws on one of my Warmoths (a tele I just built) is that Schaller has recently changed their strap lock design, and you have to use the screw that is now permanently part of the unit. The new design offers some upgrades, but doesn't allow for using longer screws anymore. I like the older ones better. Maybe these tips will be helpful to someone. Cheers, Aaron, and thanks!
It be great if you covered drilling holes for the tremolo spring claw. I really messed this one up !
Get what's called an "aircraft drill bit." These are 12" long and available from Amazon and in the US at Lowes, Home Deep-o, etc. The 1/8" diameter works great, and is also useful for drilling wire tunnels in the body.
Maior and minor diameters in screw. Finish my Chambered Walnut Telecaster Deluxe with Gibson scale maple/rosewood neck. Its all Warmoth so I put the stickers on it. 10-16 neck finished 7-11-24 finished Guitar guitar maybe string trees
I installed a broken off drill bit in my telecaster before installing the strap button.
The toan is in the drill bits, ya know.
Never thought of that mod myself.
Gretsch sadly often uses those lame ass strap buttons you have to unscrew completely to get a strap on, and then screw it in tightly to make sure the strap doesn't come lose.
GOD DAMN it takes ten times longer than putting a strap on a strat lol.
Gretch design also sucks because over time it can strip out the body wood and require filler material to make up for the strip out. PAIN IN THE ASS! I shouldn't have to do this to a 3000 dollar guitar... Just saying... I'm not exactly in the mood to put wood puddy from home depot in my limited edition falcon or Stephen stern custom shop master built corvette 1 of 7 ever made...... For obvious reasons lol.
Luckily though gretsch doesn't always use these stap buttons. Their new players editions don't which is great! And you can always swap out the buttons for better ones... Even though that's sometimes more difficult said than done since some sizes of buttons wont allways fit depending on the guitar model. Wish I knew these details before buying gretsches lol. Some of the best guitars ever made but still... Nothing is perfect. Some designs are just not practical in many ways lol.
Yes I know... Pain in the ass lol.
And your tell has a drill bit stuck inside of it... Hilarious.
Lol my 98 strat has a screw broken off in the head stock for what should have been a string tree. I covered it and no ones the wiser luckily lol. I was fucking pissed when it happened. Fuckin screw broke off clean as fuck with no way of getting it out without further damaging the head stock. I was so furious until I found a sound solution. I got these black fuzzy things bracing the underside of the string tree which give it a nice touch and cover the old mistake. It's a black headstock so it's hard to see the damage anyways luckily.
Advice? Make sure your screws are not cheap weak crap. Same thing with your drill bits apparently lol. Buyer beware...
But yeah man... More power to us lol. Folks who have metal in their wood where it shouldn't be lololol.
LOL...I just got my Soloist one piece Korina body from you guys...It is amazing! Keep up he good work Aaron (and of course the rest of the Warmoth staff)
Have you considered a guitar with a Daphne Blue finish like a Strat or a second soloist? Daphne Blue goes great with Surf Green. I really appreciate the daily uploads, have you considered covering pot replacements, thanks.
I like to use Cherry Chap Stick to lubricate my screws. 'Cause I like the smell, and it fits nicely in my toolbox. I have used it for lubricating tuning machines too.
Another one of my posted questions answered in video. Thanks Aaron!
Maybe a vid on how to fix a ding on a Warmoth finish or any suggestions?🙁
That's sadly something hard to fix. It is possible to reshape wood with heat so long as the ding isn't bigger than a dime or so... But if there is a finish.... Good luck lol. You might make things worse if there is a finish... Perhaps hire someone to do body rework and refinish... I did it once. Cost me about 450 to get a ceramic coat which is the newest fancy stuff that's going to put wax jobs out of commission. Ceramic coats are the best. Can't scratch or ding it without trying real hard. It acts like a permanent wax job. Lil pricy to get that coat though... Cost me a extra 50 bucks. He sanded it down, filled in the dings, painted over it with paint of my choosing, and then gave it the ceramic coat treatment as well. Took about 2 months and then I got it back after I shipped it to him. Like I said... Pricy... Prolly something I wont do again or at least not for a while... It did work out great though.
I say just live with dings and scratches. Nothing is perfect anyways and the worn in instruments tend to make the best guitars... As the old saying goes...
"Make sure you go into battle with a proven rifle"
You can sand it all down and paint it yourself but you need a good place for it to cure and it's a bit of a pain in the ass and odds are you wont do as good a job as a pro since you're not a pro at body painting... There is sort of a skill distributing the paint properly so there is just the right amount all over it. Best leave it to pros in my honest opinion unless you yourself are trying to become a master guitar painter or something lol.
If it's a color paint finish, take the guitar to a store that sells nail polish and find a color that's a close match to your guitar. Clean the ding with a Q-tip dampened (not dripping) with alcohol, and then fill the ding with layers of the polish. Don't put it on thick; thin layers with dry time between. Go too thick and it will dry with an air bubble in it. Take care to apply the finish only inside the perimeter of the ding, and build up the repair so it's just above the surrounding area when fully cured. If it's a clear finish, use clear nail polish. You can wet-sand and polish the repair after three or four days of cure time.
In the video the Turquoise color seems a a lot more GREEN than blue...
LOVE that Turquoise color
This is what I was looking for before drilling a strat for the first time. Didn't find anything telling me about strap button on the horn pointing down. Happily my OCD drove me to a good place after watching a lot of pictures.
You see there is a reason why the OCD is a very popular drive pedal... 🤪
Lots of good info here.
Awesome video Aaron, thanks! If anybody doesn't have beeswax you can use some bar soap on screw threads, works like a charm! Keep on making these videos man!
The outside of the screw thread is called "major diameter" and the inner diameter at the bottom of the thread is called the "root diameter!" They sell standard kits of bits for wood screw pilot holes to keep you from guessing.
Very useful as usual 👍
I LOVE that surf green, just ordered a surf green strat body from Warmoth
I'm jelly. I got a kelly green strat. It's more like hulk green. But something about that seafoamy 50s and 60s wild side look... You can't hate it lol. You just gotta love that color! It looks almost radioactive.
Great Tips!
Nice video! Keep it up!
Love these videos Aaron. Like everyone else, I hope you continue making them after we get back to "normal." Can't wait for the website to get back up... I got two more Tele bodies and necks sitting in my cart just waiting pay for!
We have the website hiccup fixed....we are are just trying to get through the massive backup of orders before we reopen it. Soon! :)
I have some funny on my channel if you’re interested- Just The Jokes series. Putting them out now for just the reason you mentioned. We all need a lift right now. Aaron is great
Aaron is the man brah
Good videos. The turquoise guitar is a sweet axe.
For the strap buttons I use a bradawl and then screw in by hand. Thats with alder, not sure how mahogany goes
Aaron is there any chance of you doing a video featuring a Mooncaster build?
Perhaps at some point, but right now I only have what is in my home to work with. It's like in Apollo 13, when ground control has to figure out how to fix the space capsule using only what the astronauts have inside with them. :)
@@warmoth Aaron this video was of great help ! An additional point is those grolsch red rubber bottle rings work just as well in place of strap locks if you're in a pinch !
.
I have one quick *follow up question about neck + nut width connection as I agree with you the link between the two is inextricable*
:
For the neck I want : *standard thin profile neck profile and I think 11/16 43mm nut* I am wondering what is the neck width overall
*AT the nut is ?*
*neck width dictates what nut will suit it best no?*
*I can't see any measurements on the neck profile section on The Warmoth site about this ,
SO therefore if I want a 1 11/16ths nut but the necks with AT the NUT is say 1 3/4ths, then wont there be too much wood on the shoulders of the fretboard or IF I choose 1 11/16ths nut then that means the standard thin neck gets cut accordingly right to that width?
.
I thought this was worth asking since I haven't heard anything about it any of your neck comparisons/neck profile/nut width videos so of there is an correlation between those points^ I'd be very interested to know since for example a
1 3/4ths neck width at the nut (example) sounds like it must have a 1 3/4ths nut to match it.
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Really hope you see this and all that makes sense ^ please stay safe and healthy during this time and once warmoth is available to start shipping again dude to covid I'm looking forward to happily pulling the trigger.
Cheers from Niagara falls Canada!
🙏😊🤟 - Adam
hi aaron! awesome stuff again. i just wanted to ask your opinion on neck shims. i just removed my 1st super cheap guitar's (j&d guitars) bolt on neck and i saw a piece of plastic, similar to those you strap around cartboards/pallets etc. dont know if you have covered this topic before, or maybe for a future video, but you were the 1st one to come in mind regarding guitar necks! anyway, take care and be safe!
Do you have any vids up of your Scorpions tribute band gigs??
www.secondsting.com
Hey aaron, i thought of a comparison idea, why not compare regular headstocks and reverse headstocks? I personally would love to know the benefits or detriments that come from reversing your headstock.
Aaron, that Turquoise body is killer! I need one!
Is that a natural wood “binding”? I’d like a video on the clean line option, the natural wood binding as well. Also, is that the 720 mod?
It would be great to see a video when you end up building it into a full guitar!
Any advice for strap buttons on my Jackson Kelly KEX? It's a bit bulkier than the Nomad in the video and it is neck-through. No plate.🙁
Really neck heavy, which I can deal with, but it sits on me almost off to the side when I stand. I've read others have the same issue. Love the guitar though!!
This was helpful. Thanks!
Nomad looks like great fret access.
I really dug the live performances you did for us. Your sweet collection of album covers made me think of Heavy Metal. Would you be up for covering "All of You" by Don Felder? I think your voice would work well on that number...
Awesome.
Do you ever use any strap locks? I've put Dunlop Straploks on a few guitars but I mostly just use regular buttons with Grolsch type rubber washers to help secure the strap.
I personally loathe strap locks of any kind. I use a certain type of button that AllParts calls "oversize buttons". Best buttons in existence, IMO.
Please do an episode about Earvana !
LOVE THOSE NUTS. I'd put em in my mouth if I could I love those nuts so much.
Seriously they kick ass. Better all around from a regular synthetic or bone nut. Sadly they don't exactly have the most vintage look but easy come easy go. Also vintage isn't always the way to go... You don't want a vintage fridge or vintage sneakers do ya? lol
Is it possible to install a les Paul pickguard on a warming regal
Body?
I'm lost on locating a strap button on a diamondback bass... help.
Whoa! Explore this!
Thank you.
Which type of straplocks and how long should the screws be for throwing the guitar around yourself like Malmsteen does? Saw someone try this in a store once and the guitar flew off into the window display rack ... o____o
Hey Aaron! I really like the idea of building a guitar from Warmoth parts, but I'm not a huge fan of the traditional neck heel. Doesn't it get in a way for your playing in higher frets? Also how helpful do you find your contoured heel option? Thank you!
Does the Nomad lean away from your body much with the strap button on the neck screw? BTW, great videos!
Nope.
When you drill a hole on the guitar, do you use a very small drill bit first before changing to the desired drill bit size? or do you just do the measurements then go straight to the size you need?
Love the videos, but the way you’re pronouncing measure is driving my crazy! 😂
Darn I was about to offer to buy that turq body until you mentioned the strap lock finish cracking!!! :>) It is beautiful. How about a video dealing with the plus and minus of various trem systems, vintage vs Floating. Also installation of the floating trem bolts. Also a short tutorial on the battery box routing. Does Warmouth route just the box cavity or do they route the wiring tunnel as well, etc?
Fair point... But also finish cracks and dings and scratches etc... Are often kind of kool looking, not a big deal, and give the guitar more originality. So getting this guitar might not bother certain folks. It's all about how you feel about it : )
Is that the "PRS" Vip control layout on your Soloist bodies?
Indeed it is. It's an off-menu option you can get by calling in.
You should make a nomad bass
Well now you need a trans green flamed maple top guitar with red pickups called the greased watermelon.
I love Warmoth videos, I'm getting very excited about ordering a custom Bass... Any chance when I call Aaron could take my order? I would love to talk to him about my plan, I feel like if anyone would be able to recognize issues with it, it'd be him for sure!
Can I buy your black/ white discontinued guitar body?
I have a question, so I recently bought a Schecter, and the strap was just drilled in to the body, like it’s literally a screw drilled in to the body...is it safe for me to remove it and can anyone recommend some budget friendly strap locks
How do you feel about leather washers between the strap button and the body?
ComfortablyNumbMusic they push against the screw after tightening which is no bueno. I don’t use any washers but felt doesn’t have as much springy push back as leather
Yo Aaron were is the best spot for a Diamond back body?
I would put the one at the end in the regular place, and the one closest to the neck on the heel plate, as shown here: warmoth.com/blog/how-to-fix-a-neck-heavy-guitar-or-bass
You can grease fasteners with bar soap, too
What's your take on countersunk Dunlop strap locks?
Have not used them, but I dislike strap locks in general. I prefer oversize strap buttons.
You say measure VERY strangely. Mee-zure. Odd, but cool. Do you own any guitars that don't have Floyds on them?
So many people are commenting about that! I don't know how else to say it! LOL. :)
I installed my Strat upper horn strap button straight in! As soon as I saw it, I realized I wanted it it the slightly downward angle.
If I wanted to reposition it, do I need to fill the other hole?
I would fill it, yes.
I would. If you ever do carpentry work... Especially precise work like guitar work... ALWAYS PRE DRILL YOUR HOLES! Nothing more annoying than cracked split wood or crooked leaning screw heads or whatever... Use math to line up your drill hole perfectly. Use a level and them lil bubbles to help guide in str8. Position yourself firmly while drilling. Don't just do it like your putting your socks on half asleep in the morning lol.
Just don't pre drill the hole too big lol. My advice? Wrap tape around your drill bit in a certain position that you desire.. That way when it's drilling you can see when the tape is about to go into the body. Use the tape as a guide to let you know when you are deep enough with your drilling. Lil tip that's worked great for me since you DON'T want to over drill or under drill. No one wants a guitar that looks like a piece of Swiss cheese........... Except maybe me now that I think about it... Sounds like a light guitar lol.
makes me sad that the nomad body you have is discontinued :(. any change of a video talking about and the history of the nomad ?
How many years have you been with Warmoth?
Isn't that sea foam green? Or surf green?
Surf.
Phew.... So I have been doing it correctly all this time luckily and now I don't have to feel like a jack ass lol.
I'd like to see you perform with your cover bands. Instagram would be a great place to post covers w/out worry of copyright strikes. Do you have an Instagram account, Aaron? (Edited) Found your IG acct and followed.
Gimme dem Judas Priest albums in the back lol
If you think I'll let it go you're mad.....you got another thing coming! ;)
🔥🆒👌
I'm wondering how many greased water melons you've handled :D
Enough. :)
@@warmoth :D
The only solution.
Schaller strap locks. Nothing else goes on my guitars.
Do you prefer them over Dunlops and why so?
@@Meritocrate If a Dunlop strap lock fails, the strap side will come out of the hole of the pin in the body. If the upper horn is angled down, like Aron shows us, it's harder for that to happen. But if you just replaced on a Strat/Music Man... And even worse if you got the guitar at an angle so the neck is higher than the body
The Schaller type still rest in a U shaped "cup" with a guide that goes into a groove on the pin.
So even if the spring and the locking pin on the strap side fails, the guitar will still be where it was.
I've had Dunlop type fail on me, and that almost meant damage to the guitar.
I've had Chinese Schaller copy fail, but no immediate risk of damage.
I just go with the usual one u commonly see. Ric puts em on all theirs... New players edition gretches do it. And I'm pretty sure fender has for the most part stuck with this too.
But yes... Use strap locks if you're extra scared of dropping it. They are kind of a pain though... Just another fuckin thing you gotta mess with just to get your strap on lol.
That drill came too close to the guitar at @1:30, careful!
where do you buy your Tshirts. the look cool \(*_*))
Maysure? Pretty sure it's"measure".