I watched this video with interest. At 3:30 you pose the question, "What does the high side of the sprocket mean?" My view on that Q. is as follows: Some but not all of the SunTour sprockets have teeth that are chisel-shaped. This is best seen when the sprockets are viewed thin-edge-on. However, an easier way to deal with the problem of which is the high side is to simply side-step the issue and instead use another rule of thumb entirely, which is that *all sprockets* irrespective of tooth count or position, should be assembled, with the sprocket info stamp ie the letter code and teeth count, to face the centre of the wheel. If you follow that rule of thumb, then the issue of identifying "the high side" becomes academic. This advice is seen in the SunTour technical bulletin, which I bought from Yellow Jersey in Arlington, WI, for a bargainateous £5 oh yes :-) Their guy was good enough to pop it in the post to me here in Bristol, UK I have a Winner pro in excellent condition - lucky me! I also have a Regina CX the third largest cog of which is stuck fast. I've tried judicous heating without success. The next step for me is to pop the freewheel off the wheel and soak the whole assembly in Plus Gas for a number of days to see if that will help remove it... Wish me luck.
Thanks for the reply, very informative. Good luck, as you know from video heat and big torque was the answer for me. Of course, at the cost of a couple of plastic spacers.
The high side is talking about the top of the tooth, they are slanted. Also about removing a shim, before I tear apart any freewheel, I always leave it on the wheel and rock the freewheel to see how much play is in it before removing it from the wheel. I have rebuilt dozens of freewheels from varying makes and models. New they have some play. You cannot get them to tight. With time and practice you will know how much to remove. Most have different thicknesses, Usually take out the thinnest one. Hope this helps.
I laugh at myself more than I laugh at others, seems to work miracles sometimes. I also remember that quote from a 1970s IBM repair manual that simply says ''If all else fails, do NOT use a hammer''. It reminds me that we are ALL standing just short of that line where using a really big hammer repeatedly until whatever just ruined our day is 110% beyond repairing is the only thing that can bring back the happy. Never forget: it's not about the happy, don't ever let it be about the happy, never give it that amount of control.
It's been two years. Does the lockring thread off clockwise or counterclockwise? It seems they are not all the same. I may be in the same situation as you were two years ago
For just general FW removal from the wheel hub use this video: czcams.com/video/T_vRbBRPr3c/video.htmlsi=xuQgm_X7l-Yn00GN For removing all the cogs of a FW use this video: czcams.com/video/uwGCZuWPQGk/video.htmlsi=GSudqPDhUf2kMS9C I ended up making a jig out of a 2 foot piece of scrap deck board where I used wood screws to screw down the entire freewheel, then used heat (why I melted one of the spacers) and then a big cheater bar along with a Park chain whip to remove the cogs. Good luck.
I watched this video with interest. At 3:30 you pose the question, "What does the high side of the sprocket mean?" My view on that Q. is as follows: Some but not all of the SunTour sprockets have teeth that are chisel-shaped. This is best seen when the sprockets are viewed thin-edge-on. However, an easier way to deal with the problem of which is the high side is to simply side-step the issue and instead use another rule of thumb entirely, which is that *all sprockets* irrespective of tooth count or position, should be assembled, with the sprocket info stamp ie the letter code and teeth count, to face the centre of the wheel. If you follow that rule of thumb, then the issue of identifying "the high side" becomes academic. This advice is seen in the SunTour technical bulletin, which I bought from Yellow Jersey in Arlington, WI, for a bargainateous £5 oh yes :-) Their guy was good enough to pop it in the post to me here in Bristol, UK
I have a Winner pro in excellent condition - lucky me! I also have a Regina CX the third largest cog of which is stuck fast. I've tried judicous heating without success. The next step for me is to pop the freewheel off the wheel and soak the whole assembly in Plus Gas for a number of days to see if that will help remove it... Wish me luck.
Thanks for the reply, very informative. Good luck, as you know from video heat and big torque was the answer for me. Of course, at the cost of a couple of plastic spacers.
The high side is talking about the top of the tooth, they are slanted.
Also about removing a shim, before I tear apart any freewheel, I always leave it on the wheel and rock the freewheel to see how much play is in it before removing it from the wheel. I have rebuilt dozens of freewheels from varying makes and models. New they have some play. You cannot get them to tight. With time and practice you will know how much to remove. Most have different thicknesses, Usually take out the thinnest one. Hope this helps.
This confirmed my thoughts thank you
I laugh at myself more than I laugh at others, seems to work miracles sometimes. I also remember that quote from a 1970s IBM repair manual that simply says ''If all else fails, do NOT use a hammer''. It reminds me that we are ALL standing just short of that line where using a really big hammer repeatedly until whatever just ruined our day is 110% beyond repairing is the only thing that can bring back the happy. Never forget: it's not about the happy, don't ever let it be about the happy, never give it that amount of control.
The cog number faces to the rear of the freewheel. in other words you would have to go on the left side of the bike to see the cog numbers.
It's been two years. Does the lockring thread off clockwise or counterclockwise? It seems they are not all the same. I may be in the same situation as you were two years ago
For just general FW removal from the wheel hub use this video: czcams.com/video/T_vRbBRPr3c/video.htmlsi=xuQgm_X7l-Yn00GN For removing all the cogs of a FW use this video: czcams.com/video/uwGCZuWPQGk/video.htmlsi=GSudqPDhUf2kMS9C I ended up making a jig out of a 2 foot piece of scrap deck board where I used wood screws to screw down the entire freewheel, then used heat (why I melted one of the spacers) and then a big cheater bar along with a Park chain whip to remove the cogs. Good luck.