VSO: "I am a classically trained chemist, that's what I did before this" Me: "NICE! The BATFE agent assigned to watch probably just bumped up your terror threat level by at least 3 points..." The high score is a badge of honor & should be worn with pride. 😏
@@VSO_Gun_Channel well I would like to personally thank you for coming over to the dark side. Your methodologies when approaching certain topics like this are a refreshing change of pace from the usual guntuber shenanigans - but I also appreciate the funzies of the pew, and sometimes you just need to goof off
Chem major here, but you are probably right. I'm sure the things we were REQUIRED to research in school were enough to jump-start the listing process. I had to do a research paper on extracting ricin and its toxicology for biochem 1.
Copper oxide can be useful too. Mix it 4:1 with fine aluminum powder and you can make pretty safe reactive targets. Backyard Ballistics did a video on them. They won't start fires.
I didn't understand most of what you were saying, but because you were demonstrating a real world use for chemistry I feel like I learned more on the subject in 12 minutes watching this video than I ever did the year I had to suffer through chemistry class in high school.
One of the things, that I was terrible at in school was public speaking. I used to lock up like a the brakes on granny’s car when she is about to plow into Bambi. CZcams gave me that and now I love giving presentations. It’s never to late to learn a new trick
You literally can't make warnings on packaging big enough and you can't make instruction manuals clear or thorough enough because people literally don't read them. It covers your butt from a liability perspective but ethically... Well, George Carlin already said it all. Think how smart your "average" person is and then realize 1/2 of them are dumber than that.
Ok, so lemme be real. I took 2 chemistry classes in college, which were significant factors that influenced my decision to major in Humanities. I understood exactly 1.07% of what you said in this video, but it was damn cool to watch. I'll take your word on the science part of it, but it's really cool to see people applying science to gun related stuff. Thank you for the information and the entertainment!
I watched Johnny's video before, now I am watching this one. Both are great, but the question I have is still, is there a better way other than using "the dip"? Please forgive my ignorance of chemistry and suppressors. It just seems like the best solution is to eliminate the dangerous solution and use a safer alternative.
The alternative for a user serviceable silencer (like a 22 can) is ye olde screwdriver and a whole hell of a lot of scraping. I'm serious. Normal gun solvents do absolutely nothing. I typically let my Silencerco switchback go about 1000 rounds between cleanings. With a very small screwdriver, it takes hours and the best I can do is just kinda clean-ish. With the dip it takes about 10 minutes to give them a wipe down/drying/oiling after letting it sit overnight. And it comes out looking factory fresh. Of course, then there is a jar full of awfulness which is why this video exists. It's also worth noting this is exclusively for steel cans, any kind of coatings as well as both aluminum and titanium parts are not going to react well to the dip.
Yeah that or an old toothbrush. And that's depending on your setup. You might not be able to find a brush stiff enough to get inside the holes of a monolithic block to scrape the junk out. The big thing is, like with your receiver/barrel when shooting corrosive ammo, you need to do it often because letting it sit, build up and/or harden on there is going to exacerbate your problems. The best solution would be to find an effective solvent that doesn't create neurotoxins or isn't some kind of poison in and of itself. But what? You could use saline in a sonic cleaner if your suppressor is 100% unalloyed titanium or plastic but it's not. That'll rot away anything made of iron (yes, even stainless steel) or aluminum real fast. And it would still scratch it all up over time. One guy below says CLR works kinda well.
Have you tried CLR to clean cans? I had pretty good results in my surefire, it gained almost an ounce over the years of use and got it down to only .2oz over its original weight with one soak. Only thing ive heard is to be careful with cerakote with it
So just for clarity, the final proposal was to add a mixture of sodium hydroxide and water to "the dip" when you're done with it. I wasn't entirely clear on what your final proposal was, other than "skipping the zinc solution. Would be nice to have a 15 second summary at the end. Also, what gas is generated while the parts are soaking in the dip? How dangerous is the gas?
Physics is applied mathematics, chemistry is applied physics, biology is applied chemistry, physiology is applied biology. Everything is this applied mathematics.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel Well said. All sciences are interesting. I ended up pulling a BA in Chem vs a BS because I was having a blast with the extra physics/biochem/math/bio classes. From a life-applicable (non career based) point of view, I would have preferred to just have a bunch of minors scattered across all the sciences.
Yeah, throw in that copper solution bown a septic system would have been horrible for the microbiology. Good work on the chemistry. I did remember you stating in a past video that you were a chemist.
Awesome to see in depth science applied to firearms. Super cool that you gave simple instructions at the end that most people should be able to follow.
That was friggen awesome, you scienced the crap out of it. I'm not looking forward to cleaning any of my suppressors but this video should help a lot of people. Thanks for sharing and as always keep Pew pewing.
A better method would have been to use steel to cement the copper out of solution in elemental form. Filter the solution which should be piss yellow at this point away from the copper. THEN use the hydroxide to remove the lead and steel from solution. The solution should be crystal clear at this point but is now a very basic one. To neutralize it you should use a very strong acid. HCL comes to mind. When neutralized you will be left with a solution that is safe to dispose of. The copper can be disposed of straight away as it is elemental copper. The steel and lead salts should be roasted before disposal. I know nobody will do this but it would be the "proper" way.
Depends on how much lead oxide you have. Scrap sources for casting are drying up, I keep any lead I come across, up to and including picking up pieces of split shot when I’m fishing and spot them. Below the dam on a striped bass trip I’ll usually get a couple lbs of 2-5 oz bank sinkers if I remember to keep an eye out. Or just filter and dry the lead oxide and store it if it has any usefulness for chemistry or whatnot.
Also, this is awesome. Used dip solution is likely the most hazardous chemical I will ever encounter in my life. The dump in my county only takes hazardous chemicals on a special day that happens once per quarter so after a couple months you end up with several jars full of extra-spicy lead juice collecting on a shelf waiting on the dump day. Also they only do their hazmat days on a Saturday so if you happen to be out out of town that weekend it’s another 3 months until the next one. I was out of town for 3 in a row last year so had an entire years worth of it sitting around by the time I could take it in. Just driving it to the dump in the first place is pretty sketchy because if you get in a bad wreck on the way then those jars are going to break and there is going to be lead acetate all over you, your car, and any unsuspecting first responders who come into contact with it.
You journey of discovery was interesting. But to make it practical to use this knowledge, it would be useful for you to write a proceedure for the final method that worked and put it in the "down below" section of your post.
You are right. It’s been a minute since I’ve published a procedure. I’ll add it to my list of things to do. I’ll have to recreate it to get the actual measurements.
Wouldn’t a zinc powder react faster? Someone told me that they did something with salt(sodium chloride) after zinc but I’ve never tried it. Might be a very bad idea for all I know. Maybe a chemistry expert can piece something together from that.
I have seen a few videos, and some from yourself if I’m not mistaken, of CLR being used on barrels and muzzle breaks, is there a reason it wouldn’t work for suppressors? Is it too weak? Or too strong? Does it not dissolve the lead?
How do you tell how you’ve added enough NaOH to convert all the lead and copper? Just keep adding more until you no longer see anything falling out of solution?
I know old timers used to plug barrels and use mercury to clean (leading?).. am I remembering that correctly? Could that method be used on suppressors and would it be less toxic?
When I watch his video original. You where my first thought because your a chemist. And if you would weigh In on the topic. I’ll be honest your video confuse me more. So after I clean my cans with the dip. I can’t drink it or I have to add some everclear or sky vodka and then it’s safe. Joking aside could you do a follow up video on how I can simply and easy make dip safe to disposed of.
5:20 im not a chemist so this is a question, by running at high temperature, aren't you increasing the chances of developing toxic fumes out of the reaction? Yes lead and copper is probably to dense to become a gas but there must be something bad right?
Can’t have 100% it too hydroscopic. Most you can have it 99 or so %. Should t have been enough to work when he was washing the second time I would think.
@@MerpSquirrel well it’s possible to reach 99.9ect so that’s close enough, although not widely available. And I’m pretty sure you get it to insanely high purity under more scrupulous lab conditions
I am not going to discuss where the alcohol came from. Just that it’s high. Laboratory grade ethanol often contains benzene in an effort to both stabilize the solution and as a byproduct of the manufacturing process of driving off the last 5% of water. You still can’t get it all but you can get 99.99. this way. Benzene is great because it’s a ring, electron distribution is solid and it’s very stable. Unless of course you are working with peroxides. Then, you have the capacity to create all kinds of nasty shit. Particularly in the presence of…a copper catalyst.
Me in the beginning of the video: Oh sweet. He's gonna show me how to do something cool and make it easy. Me at the end of the video: F*ck it I'll just pay 1,300$$ and wait another 12 months.
Hey, I've got an old .22lr pistol with a compensator thats been clogged with lead. Do you think that it will help clean up the lead but not ruin the bluing?
Here is the thing- bluing is rust. It’s a different oxide than the red rust that you normally call rust, but it’s still rust. Iron forms porous oxides and bluing is just deemed more attractive because it is more uniform and adheres more tightly to the surface. The bluing itself will be fine. The metal that isn’t blued will not be. I suggest you buy a bottle of cold blue. Use the method, get the lead out, clean it, hand dry it and then drop the comp in a jar of cold blue.
This an interesting thing because technology creates toxic waste. People don't tend to think of guns or gun related stuff as "technology" because this all started in the 14th century. But handling some of these products without PPE, without ventilation or dumping them down the drain can be a disaster. Some people (not all, don't wanna paint everyone with the same brush-it's why I prefer the term Fudd to Boomer) think it's perfectly benign because they bought it in a store. (Insert cynical comment about OTC medications slowly killing your liver and kidneys here.) But it's NOT. Case in point: I have a room full of old computer parts and CFL lightbulbs (...remember those? ...spirally kind? ..."next big thing"? ...lasts for so long a lot of them were obsolete before they even burned out?) because I'm legally prohibited from throwing them away and nobody around here wants to take them to be recycled. I'd like to see more videos about how to safely and/or ethically clean up residue from firearms so you don't injure yourself, your sewage system, local waterways or any bald eagles.
so I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and does anyone know a good solution to cleaning a sandman s? I tried some purple simple green and it didn't really do anything after four 30 minute cycles
GAWD, yer a nerd....I watched the whole video.
Pinned
Great stuff, brother. Awesome info.
I came here from your link on resizing brass. Thanks Johnny
I was hoping you saw this. Thank you both for sharing!
I honestly didn’t know the vso channel kept up with your channel.
VSO: "I am a classically trained chemist, that's what I did before this"
Me: "NICE! The BATFE agent assigned to watch probably just bumped up your terror threat level by at least 3 points..."
The high score is a badge of honor & should be worn with pride. 😏
You have no idea. I’ve worked with some pretty nasty stuff.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel well I would like to personally thank you for coming over to the dark side.
Your methodologies when approaching certain topics like this are a refreshing change of pace from the usual guntuber shenanigans - but I also appreciate the funzies of the pew, and sometimes you just need to goof off
Chem major here, but you are probably right. I'm sure the things we were REQUIRED to research in school were enough to jump-start the listing process. I had to do a research paper on extracting ricin and its toxicology for biochem 1.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel just don't make any videos about making stuff like homemade tannerite or "gun cotton" and you should be cool.
Bruh lmfao
I particularly enjoyed the simultaneous use of proper lab beakers and Tupperware.
Meh, not everything needs to be in glass. Some things cant be.
As a retired Chemical Technologist, I thoroughly enjoyed your Video!!!
Copper oxide can be useful too. Mix it 4:1 with fine aluminum powder and you can make pretty safe reactive targets. Backyard Ballistics did a video on them. They won't start fires.
Your comment made me say, "That's really clever," but your username made me say, "Waitaminute!"
I didn't understand most of what you were saying, but because you were demonstrating a real world use for chemistry I feel like I learned more on the subject in 12 minutes watching this video than I ever did the year I had to suffer through chemistry class in high school.
One of the things, that I was terrible at in school was public speaking. I used to lock up like a the brakes on granny’s car when she is about to plow into Bambi. CZcams gave me that and now I love giving presentations. It’s never to late to learn a new trick
Damn it, I started balancing equations half way through this
I appreciate the massive cowlick, adds to the "mad scientist" aspect! 👍🏽
That is the biggest cowlick I've ever seen!!! She's big!!
@@bryanduchane2371 🐓😆
I so much appreciate the effort put forth in this video. The dip is so much more dangerous than I feel most potential users understand.
You literally can't make warnings on packaging big enough and you can't make instruction manuals clear or thorough enough because people literally don't read them. It covers your butt from a liability perspective but ethically... Well, George Carlin already said it all. Think how smart your "average" person is and then realize 1/2 of them are dumber than that.
This is a video no other GunTuber could make. It's chemistry and science and your just the guy to make this video!!!
I did not expect to get an episode of NileRed from VSO Gun Channel.
Or from Johny's Reloading Bench for that matter.
Love it. Great video.
Ok, so lemme be real. I took 2 chemistry classes in college, which were significant factors that influenced my decision to major in Humanities. I understood exactly 1.07% of what you said in this video, but it was damn cool to watch. I'll take your word on the science part of it, but it's really cool to see people applying science to gun related stuff. Thank you for the information and the entertainment!
I have no clue what you just said, but good shit! I think...
Mmm lead bar. Off to the basement.
I would like to see more chemistry in the future.
I learned I should’ve taken chemistry.
Never too late to learn
I watched Johnny's video before, now I am watching this one. Both are great, but the question I have is still, is there a better way other than using "the dip"? Please forgive my ignorance of chemistry and suppressors. It just seems like the best solution is to eliminate the dangerous solution and use a safer alternative.
The alternative for a user serviceable silencer (like a 22 can) is ye olde screwdriver and a whole hell of a lot of scraping. I'm serious. Normal gun solvents do absolutely nothing. I typically let my Silencerco switchback go about 1000 rounds between cleanings. With a very small screwdriver, it takes hours and the best I can do is just kinda clean-ish. With the dip it takes about 10 minutes to give them a wipe down/drying/oiling after letting it sit overnight. And it comes out looking factory fresh. Of course, then there is a jar full of awfulness which is why this video exists. It's also worth noting this is exclusively for steel cans, any kind of coatings as well as both aluminum and titanium parts are not going to react well to the dip.
Yeah that or an old toothbrush. And that's depending on your setup. You might not be able to find a brush stiff enough to get inside the holes of a monolithic block to scrape the junk out. The big thing is, like with your receiver/barrel when shooting corrosive ammo, you need to do it often because letting it sit, build up and/or harden on there is going to exacerbate your problems. The best solution would be to find an effective solvent that doesn't create neurotoxins or isn't some kind of poison in and of itself. But what? You could use saline in a sonic cleaner if your suppressor is 100% unalloyed titanium or plastic but it's not. That'll rot away anything made of iron (yes, even stainless steel) or aluminum real fast. And it would still scratch it all up over time. One guy below says CLR works kinda well.
Have you tried CLR to clean cans? I had pretty good results in my surefire, it gained almost an ounce over the years of use and got it down to only .2oz over its original weight with one soak. Only thing ive heard is to be careful with cerakote with it
So just for clarity, the final proposal was to add a mixture of sodium hydroxide and water to "the dip" when you're done with it. I wasn't entirely clear on what your final proposal was, other than "skipping the zinc solution. Would be nice to have a 15 second summary at the end.
Also, what gas is generated while the parts are soaking in the dip? How dangerous is the gas?
It’s fantastic to see the community fighting pollution! Next scourge, Tooth Decay?! Never mind, I just remembered Paul Harrell is a thing.
When people realize that EVERYTHING is chemistry.
More of us would realize it sooner if we had teachers like Curt who actually understand the subject and demonstrate hands on, real life applications.
Don't forget physics! KE=1/2(M×V)■
Physics is applied mathematics, chemistry is applied physics, biology is applied chemistry, physiology is applied biology.
Everything is this applied mathematics.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel Well said. All sciences are interesting. I ended up pulling a BA in Chem vs a BS because I was having a blast with the extra physics/biochem/math/bio classes. From a life-applicable (non career based) point of view, I would have preferred to just have a bunch of minors scattered across all the sciences.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel is that why communist sympathizers keep saying "2+2=5" 🤔
Waiting for the "lead kills you at over 2000 fps in the right application " crowd to start commenting.
That’s you!
Yeah, throw in that copper solution bown a septic system would have been horrible for the microbiology. Good work on the chemistry. I did remember you stating in a past video that you were a chemist.
Watching you work through the combinations and possibilities is great!
Awesome to see in depth science applied to firearms. Super cool that you gave simple instructions at the end that most people should be able to follow.
Hell yes guns and chemistry?!?! I'm now subscribing. Just need to see some quality knives and then I can delete 90% of my subscriptions 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
That was friggen awesome, you scienced the crap out of it.
I'm not looking forward to cleaning any of my suppressors but this video should help a lot of people.
Thanks for sharing and as always keep Pew pewing.
Yum…lead acetate…what the Romans used to sweeten their wine with…
Please do more chemistry videos. CZcams needs more science lol
Cool beans. I'm using my taxes to pick up a YHM Turbo k. I'll Jane to clean it eventually.
Well now. Thank you for using smaller words. Because now this makes sense
I totally seen that same video
Very cool, green as hell.
Those is an great video. Also the buckwheat hair distracted me greatly
I learned chemistry is why i drive a truck
You lost me at 1:56 had flash backs to failing 100 level chemistry in college.
Where is "NileRed" when you need him?
Copper compounds are really good at killing trees too.
As a Chem E, this can be commercialized.
I just pour mine in my commander’s yard on base after the dip.
A better method would have been to use steel to cement the copper out of solution in elemental form. Filter the solution which should be piss yellow at this point away from the copper. THEN use the hydroxide to remove the lead and steel from solution. The solution should be crystal clear at this point but is now a very basic one. To neutralize it you should use a very strong acid. HCL comes to mind. When neutralized you will be left with a solution that is safe to dispose of. The copper can be disposed of straight away as it is elemental copper. The steel and lead salts should be roasted before disposal. I know nobody will do this but it would be the "proper" way.
Depends on how much lead oxide you have. Scrap sources for casting are drying up, I keep any lead I come across, up to and including picking up pieces of split shot when I’m fishing and spot them. Below the dam on a striped bass trip I’ll usually get a couple lbs of 2-5 oz bank sinkers if I remember to keep an eye out.
Or just filter and dry the lead oxide and store it if it has any usefulness for chemistry or whatnot.
Me: more interested in science than normal...
My gun: you can clean me the old fashioned way.😘
Me. No. Watching science.
I don’t know most of what was said in this video, but it was neat! 😆
Also, this is awesome. Used dip solution is likely the most hazardous chemical I will ever encounter in my life. The dump in my county only takes hazardous chemicals on a special day that happens once per quarter so after a couple months you end up with several jars full of extra-spicy lead juice collecting on a shelf waiting on the dump day. Also they only do their hazmat days on a Saturday so if you happen to be out out of town that weekend it’s another 3 months until the next one. I was out of town for 3 in a row last year so had an entire years worth of it sitting around by the time I could take it in.
Just driving it to the dump in the first place is pretty sketchy because if you get in a bad wreck on the way then those jars are going to break and there is going to be lead acetate all over you, your car, and any unsuspecting first responders who come into contact with it.
Think I’ll pour my questionable stuff into kitty litter and send it to the local landfill. No chemistry involved:)
Primers and powders next? I don’t know if all we will have one day is black powder rifles.
Was your hydrogen peroxide stabilized with something? Could this also have an impact on the reactions?
Nah, it was just store bought.
You journey of discovery was interesting. But to make it practical to use this knowledge, it would be useful for you to write a proceedure for the final method that worked and put it in the "down below" section of your post.
You are right. It’s been a minute since I’ve published a procedure. I’ll add it to my list of things to do. I’ll have to recreate it to get the actual measurements.
Thanks
Algorithm.......likes this video.
When Chemistry and Guns mix in solution this is what you get lol
I use coppersulfate to clean my pond out…kills weeds
Would this be a 'useful' way to dispose of the stuff that leaks out of an unattended bucket of alkaline batteries?
Wouldn’t a zinc powder react faster?
Someone told me that they did something with salt(sodium chloride) after zinc but I’ve never tried it. Might be a very bad idea for all I know. Maybe a chemistry expert can piece something together from that.
You should hit up nurdrage or Cody’s lab for this sort of shit.
But "The Dip" fries and Eats the shit out of Aluminum. Very corrosive
I have seen a few videos, and some from yourself if I’m not mistaken, of CLR being used on barrels and muzzle breaks, is there a reason it wouldn’t work for suppressors? Is it too weak? Or too strong? Does it not dissolve the lead?
Lead acetate, great for measuring H2s....
man i stumbled across Johnny reload yesterday, and it made me curious, and low and behold Curtis beat me to it
Someone contact NileRed, he might love this.
I would love to to work with NileRed
I am lost make it simpler please!
Right on, good info! My .22 cans will thank ya!
I liked the SDI info the most.😂
If CZcams fails you could be the next Heisenberg...
Explain it all with science. Great video!
Why do you need to clean a can in the first place?
Gets really heavy and loses some effectiveness because volume is decreased over time.
@@MerpSquirrel never experienced any of those problems. Already good to run some supers through the can to blow that stuff out of it...
Around the 100k mark they start getting heavy
How do you tell how you’ve added enough NaOH to convert all the lead and copper? Just keep adding more until you no longer see anything falling out of solution?
I know old timers used to plug barrels and use mercury to clean (leading?).. am I remembering that correctly? Could that method be used on suppressors and would it be less toxic?
Mercury is pretty toxic as well and if I am not mistaken also dissolves aluminum, material which is used in some rimfire silencers...
Very cool!
I just felt stupid. Give me any two part solutions and I'm good to go. Loved watching even though it was Swahili to me.
Is shooting with a mask while running a suppressor a terrible idea....think it needs to be discussed
Good video!
When I watch his video original. You where my first thought because your a chemist. And if you would weigh In on the topic. I’ll be honest your video confuse me more. So after I clean my cans with the dip. I can’t drink it or I have to add some everclear or sky vodka and then it’s safe. Joking aside could you do a follow up video on how I can simply and easy make dip safe to disposed of.
You filter off the solids, and neutralize the basic liquids. Pitch the solids in the dumpster and send the liquids down the drain.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel what can be used to neutralize. Like baking soda or some other house hold item that most of us have laying around.
Did anyone try diesel. We used it in the gas patches. I don't think it will remove the metals but it will definitely remove the carbon.
NEW recipe for Meth?
You used a lotta big purdy werds that don't make no sense, but there were some mighty nice colors in yer video.
Soooo..... what comes after step 1?
Algorithm has been defeated
Tried to meet you once , sorry didn’t get the op 🦆🦆
Does it also kill Tunes?
5:20 im not a chemist so this is a question, by running at high temperature, aren't you increasing the chances of developing toxic fumes out of the reaction? Yes lead and copper is probably to dense to become a gas but there must be something bad right?
🤦♂️
@@VSO_Gun_Channel sooooo.... no?
+1 JRB
Is paracetic acid a precursor to Tylenol?
Did you use 95% alcohol instead of 100%?
Can’t have 100% it too hydroscopic. Most you can have it 99 or so %. Should t have been enough to work when he was washing the second time I would think.
@@MerpSquirrel well it’s possible to reach 99.9ect so that’s close enough, although not widely available. And I’m pretty sure you get it to insanely high purity under more scrupulous lab conditions
I am not going to discuss where the alcohol came from. Just that it’s high. Laboratory grade ethanol often contains benzene in an effort to both stabilize the solution and as a byproduct of the manufacturing process of driving off the last 5% of water. You still can’t get it all but you can get 99.99. this way. Benzene is great because it’s a ring, electron distribution is solid and it’s very stable. Unless of course you are working with peroxides. Then, you have the capacity to create all kinds of nasty shit. Particularly in the presence of…a copper catalyst.
😞 I'm so confused !
Johnny sent me here.
On which one?
Me in the beginning of the video: Oh sweet. He's gonna show me how to do something cool and make it easy. Me at the end of the video: F*ck it I'll just pay 1,300$$ and wait another 12 months.
Interesting
The SDI reviews are terrible
Talk about assitate I got plenty pb assitate round here
In my can 🦆🦆👌
Ah chemistry. My mortal enemy in college. Thank you extra credit, with out you I wouldn’t have gotten a C.
SCIENCE
Hey, I've got an old .22lr pistol with a compensator thats been clogged with lead. Do you think that it will help clean up the lead but not ruin the bluing?
Here is the thing- bluing is rust. It’s a different oxide than the red rust that you normally call rust, but it’s still rust. Iron forms porous oxides and bluing is just deemed more attractive because it is more uniform and adheres more tightly to the surface. The bluing itself will be fine. The metal that isn’t blued will not be. I suggest you buy a bottle of cold blue. Use the method, get the lead out, clean it, hand dry it and then drop the comp in a jar of cold blue.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel thanks man
Can you help me study for a chemistry exam? Haha
This an interesting thing because technology creates toxic waste. People don't tend to think of guns or gun related stuff as "technology" because this all started in the 14th century. But handling some of these products without PPE, without ventilation or dumping them down the drain can be a disaster. Some people (not all, don't wanna paint everyone with the same brush-it's why I prefer the term Fudd to Boomer) think it's perfectly benign because they bought it in a store. (Insert cynical comment about OTC medications slowly killing your liver and kidneys here.) But it's NOT. Case in point: I have a room full of old computer parts and CFL lightbulbs (...remember those? ...spirally kind? ..."next big thing"? ...lasts for so long a lot of them were obsolete before they even burned out?) because I'm legally prohibited from throwing them away and nobody around here wants to take them to be recycled. I'd like to see more videos about how to safely and/or ethically clean up residue from firearms so you don't injure yourself, your sewage system, local waterways or any bald eagles.
so I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and does anyone know a good solution to cleaning a sandman s? I tried some purple simple green and it didn't really do anything after four 30 minute cycles
I'm gonna have to watch this a bunch of times because you lost me at the end
Doesn't acetate and peroxide form tatp and go boom under the right conditions lol???
No
Acetone*. Don't do this.
Instructions unclear I have my silencer stuck in the bathtub full of acid plz halp :(
JRB is the shizznt