Woodworking with Plywood - What You Need to Know!
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2024
- Working with plywood has many advantages, like saving time and money, but plywood also has some unique aspects that need special attention, like joinery, now to cut plywood to avoid wood splinters, what kinds of saw blades are best in a circular saw, table saw or even a track saw and things like knowing what types of plywood are available such as sliced or rotary plywood and how to identify them, but even the species selections of hardwood and softwood out veneers is important to know and how and when to use them, there is much to know about plywood, it's uses and how to get the best number of cuts from your sheet. We'll also talk about plywood thickness and plywood sizes.
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0:00 - Intro
00:24 - Types of plywoods
00:55 - Rotary plywood and sliced plywoods
02:03 - Plywood core differences
02:32 - Plywood Uses
03:23 - Breaking down plywood sheets using computer or phone apps
04:31 - Using a circular saw jig to break down plywood
05:51 - Quick circular saw safety
06:19 - Selecting best circular saw blades for cutting plywood
06:49 - Selecting best saw blade on table saw for cutting plywood
07:46 - Edge treatments for plywood
08:15 - Edge jointing plywood for best results
08:55 - Plywood joinery, gluing
10:15 - Mechanical fasteners with plywood
10:43 - Attaching plywood together with screw, pocket holes nails and more
12:24 - Air Nailer detail on brads or pins
12:56 - Correct way of using nail guns with plywood
14:33 - Conclusion and Plywood Circular Saw Jig Link - Jak na to + styl
The tip on turning the nail gun so curving nails won't come out the side is one of those, "why didn't I think of that" things. Wish I had that tid bit sooner. Thanks.
If they bend when you nail that way, it makes the joint stronger, a bit like skew nailing.
That bit of info would have saved me from redoing a piece I'm working on now... nail shot out the front face and ruined a section that I'm now recutting and staining. Cost me a few days in getting the piece to my customer too...
You never know what wisdom you will gain in these videos. Today I learned about pin nails. Never put any thought into them being thinner in one direction. But once it was said it became obvious. Simple physics. Now I will always be mindful of the proper direction to nail.
Good tip on using nail/brad/pin guns. Important safety tip... keep your hand/fingers well away from the path of those "air" nails... especially if they decide to shoot out the side of the part.
learned this lesson then had to relearn it. brad nails do not feel good in your hand
@@bruce5834 - OUCH!!! That hurts me just thinking about it.
the hardest part of working with plywood is paying the criminal prices for it
💯 correct! Additionally finding quality plywood is almost impossible.
Thank you sir, I bought a 60 tooth diablo, thin kerf, and I'm getting decent results. I will try a 90 tooth, home depot had one in stock.
Excellent advice and examples, your the best Colin and have help me in almost all of my builds. Thank you for sharing.
Great tip 0n the Brad nailer. I learned this the hard way and this is a tip that everyone should see.
Great video Colin. Lots of helpful hints and does and don't. You make wood working fun.
The best explanation I have found for the use of plywood, thank you so much Colin for sharing your expertise, I learned so many valuable pieces of information!
Very helpful as always. I did not know about the air nailer orientation, makes sense given the nail profile difference! Stay well and thanks again Colin.
The air nailer explanation was the best i ever saw. THANK YOU!
So much great info. Love the air nailer tip. Thanks
Thanks, Colin. As usual, great info. I knew about the brad nails bending and have seen explanations of why but not as good as yours. Now it will be easy to remember why I need to orient the my tool properly.
watching your vids- i ALWAYS learn stuff- thx
Might be worth mentioning when using your circular saw jig, if the jig is clamped onto the waste side then you need to make allowance for the thickness of the saw blade; otherwise the piece you want may be a bit smaller than you'd hoped.
people that use a tape measure correctly don't "hope" when they make a cut
Good point but to clarify, That would be using the jig improperly. One does not use the jig so the blade is taking the width of the kerf out of the measured piece, It is supposed to be taking the width of the kerf out of the waste piece.
The turn nailer side or perpendicular to the nail into wood was a big enhancement for me no more blow outs.
I always enjoy your videos and always learn something from you. Thank you for explaining the "why" aspect of turning the nailer. I've often heard that tip of turning it to avoid nails shooting out the side, and always wondered why that works! Thanks for all you do!
Colin, you have helped me with my knowledge and confidence more than you’ll ever know. Many thanks.
Thanks again!!! as always, well done and very informative!
Great pin nailer advice about turning it 90 degree so they don't shoot out the side.Thanks.
Great tips! Thank you Colin!
Wow, I wish I was younger to try some of these things out. Your doing a fine thing here. Thanks
Thanks Colin, informative piece, as always!
Great video, saving it for future reference. In regard to brad and pin nails, I was always told that it was the angle on the business end of the nail that steered the nail more than anything else. Keeping fingers clear.
Chock full of good info Colin,thanks for sharing!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎
Always great advice Colin, thanks
14:14 And this is why is follow your channel. I never thought to just turn the nailer the other way. Thanks for the help!
Thanks started wood working 2 years ago been watching your teaching methods are the best 👌
Really fantastic tips, Colin! 😃
Thanks a bunch!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Very useful information. Thanks for letting us have this.
Wow! Loads of information thr. Thx
Very helpful, thank you
Great idea on nailing into plywood with air nailer.
Thank you Colin. Love from Sao Paulo, Brazil. 💚💛🇧🇷🇺🇲
Nice tips Colin. Another great show.
I really enjoy all your videos and learning a lot. Thank you very much
Good tips here. Thank you.
I put 100 tooth blades on my mitre saw and table saw - so, so, so worth it! Like they're completely different tools.
Great information, thank u for such a good video....the pin nailer info was a great pro tip...never really looked at them that closely...had that happen to me many times...now i know the best way to avoid that...Also, didnt know people ran plywood through a jointer.. never had the need to do it myself...
Good info here. Learned a few things. Thanks
Great idea thanks for sharing this 👍 😀 🙂
This was very informative I appreciated it thank you
Great presentation!
Well done!
When it comes to plywood, I just sent the shop my cutting list, and they cut it to the correct size for me (basically free of charge & it saves my blades) Makes it so easy for wardrobe construction. When cut pieces arrive, I just assemble and I'm done.
That was worth the watch even if it was only for the air nailing!.! Loved it 😊
Bob
England
That was so much awesome information I really learned a lot. Thank you so much.
Good job!! Valuable info for me👍🏼
Great video Colin, thanks for sharing!!!. 😄👍
My pleasure!
Always great info!!
Thank you good tips
Awesome video! Thanks so much🥰
Some very good tips, Thanks so much…👍
Very informative video. Thanks.
Excellent
WOW! Love this video, really great info. I don't fall in love with plywood, but the many tips and advice you've provided have inspired me to make better (and more) use of plywood.
Its dimensional stability is a big plus for me... if you are making, say, shaker cabinet doors you can glue the panel in if its ply... you can't do that with "natural" wood panels... so you get a much stronger door...
From the Emerald Isle
😎👍☘🍺
Hey Colin my friend.. I loved this video bcos u let us have a sneak peek into how to use the Air nailer. Is that a Tacvice?? gun u have and is that a good model to use if I want to get one. I've said this a million times bow but I'm really close to moving into my small workshop, it's a 16X10 garage that caused me no end of issues moving into it.
I have been buying up PLYWOOD, MDF & OSB3 BOARD and got great deals on them atm so I will be buying more as well soon. I want to begin to start building furniture like units for kitchens and ur piece on the correct blades to use was also very informative for me as a woodworking newbie.
All of ur videos have great information Colin my friend and I wanna say thanks for them bcos I'd be lost without great guys like u on YT..
Thanks!
Your the best! Thanks
remarkable
Turning the direction of the gun will decrease the chance of misfire but in all actuality the nail seeks the path of least resistance and will misfire when it hits a hard spot. The advice not mentioned is to keep your fingers out of harms way when it does.
really very very important information, I always asked myself how could one differ between plywood.
I know Colin is connected to many other wood workers as well as their followings. Does titebond ever sponsor any videos here or around or is it just the best for most applications. Funny. As I was typing this, Colin mentioned gorilla glue for plywoood.
All ways lot's of good use full tip's
The last tip will reduce a lot of cursing too 😂
Pin nails are fun to pull out.
I really need to make one of those circ saw fences... I have the Pittsburgh guides from HF that have been great, but not having to offset for the saw base seems like a big time saver.
I used a fine vee-notched spreader & silicone sealant to make a grippy base on my homemade tracks.. worked really well... 😏
Make several different lengths so you don't have to swing around a big 9' track just to make say a 2' long cut... 2' / 5' / 9' were my sizes... making them longer than 8' or 4' is so you have overlap & better saw stability starting the cut when breaking down 8 x 4 sheets...
From the Emerald Isle
😎👍☘🍺
Some useful advice especially use of the nailer. I am building a plywood case using biscuits. Any suggestions or lessons learned?
Actually a good vid
Hi Colin. Kirk here. Like your videos. Especially appreciate your genuine concern for the safty of fellow woodworkers. Questions for you. I am having difficulty finding hardwood for a kitchen island top. So I am wondering what you think of glueing 3/4 oak boards over plywood to get the thickness I want. Then edge it. Have you ever done this.
Wish I would’ve seen the nailer tips sooner!
I used Titebond's Quick and Thick glue with good results. I did a test by gluing a small piece of board to the plywood edge grain. Couldn't break it apart by hand.
I think you might have misspoke about 18ga nail. The reason the nails have an arrow indicating direction is because it is a headless or actual pin nail. All other ones have a head you can see so you can't install them upside down.
Very informative tips.
I bought a plywood blade a couple of years ago. It is one of those tools I wonder why I did not do it sooner.
You are awesome 👌 👏 👍
When I do simple drawings for my projects, I of course will show dimensions. In my later years, I've been showing dimensions differently on my drawings: Because 3/4" and 1/2" plywoods are not, in fact, those actual thicknesses, if I have an overall dimension that includes a specific cut dimension plus a couple of the thicknesses (whatever those may be), I will sometimes specify the cut dimension to be "dependent on thickness of material." Or at least I will have the overall dimension, and then adjust the cut width of material in accordance with panel thicknesses to make up the overall desired dimension. I hope that made sense!
I have a question: if i plan to stain some plywood, what kind of edge banding do i use? Do i go for the kind of banding thst matches the ply, or do i buy banding that matches the stain?
Lets say i have birch ply and want to stain it a walnut color. Do i get birch banding and stain that aswell, or do i get walnut banding and hope the color matches?
When planning your cut list for ply, remember that the maximum strength of ply is in the direction of the grain of the surface veneer. If you cut so that the grain is at 90 degrees to the length then it will be more 'bendy', so bookshelves for instance will be much more likely to bend or warp, sometimes even under just their own weight (DAMHIK). Most big timber yards just stock 'regular' ply where the grain runs the 8' direction, but if you go to a specialist supplier you CAN get ply where the grain runs the 4' direction - you can even get special 'Bendy' or 'X grain' which can be handy for making small boats or art works. Some of the ply shown as examples looks really weird, like it was made up by gluing a couple of 1/4" and 1/2" sheets together so you end up with multiple layers of veneer together all running in the same direction rather than alternating direction every layer - I've also seen some 1/2" ply coming out with only 3 layers rather than 5 or so, it was a thing back in the 1960's and before (everything was '3 ply' then).
I thought each layer is crossed 90deg, my 18mm plywood has 13 layers so not sure that is true, at least for what I am using. Maybe I'm wrong.
I’ve noticed with 3/4” construction plywood that it’s now made with two sheets of 3/8” plywood, which gives you more layers running with the long grain. So it would be stronger if you’re making an 8’ shelf but weaker if you’re making a shelf cutting a 4’ piece off the 4’ side.
My 18mm plywood is 13 layers, it's not construction grade but furniture grade.
Off topic, sort of…..
What will be available substitutes for Baltic(Russian) birch ply
As I assume this will disappear???
Got me a new circular saw as my dads old one he has doesn’t have any height adjustment to it. Haha. Also got a cordless.
1:34 Is there a difference in quality between rotary and sliced or is it just personal preference?
Colin are you still making yourself available for TEAMS / ZOOM discussions?
Biscuits work great when joining edge to edge... not so much for strength as for aligning the surfaces...
From the Emerald Isle
😎👍☘🍺
Anybody have thoughts on availability of Baltic Birch plywood, given current situation with Russia? Is there a comparable alternative?
What about Sande plywood? I know it is more water resistant but where does it fall in terms of finishes and usabilty?
Any suggestions on what to do when plywood warps? The home centers where I usually get my plywood have controlled humidity so as soon as I bring any wood home from there, even plywood, it develops a bow.
Buy from somewhere else👍
I stopped using any of my low tooth count blades. I swapped them with higher tooth and they became my backup blades.
The process of cutting the veneer off the rotating log is called fletching.
13:00 I learned this the hard way 🤣 hey, experience is how you learn.
6:02 - I do have a little problem with understanding that. Some say, that by extending the blade (for example on the table saw) the cuts are straighter, but the teeth exiting the wood, are literally ripping the fine fibres with the low angle (carbide tips are almost parallel to the stock being cut). Could you elaborate on that in future videos?
He did say for safety, not for best finish. With only a small amount of the blade protruding through the cut, you are minimizing the surface area of blade that is in contact with the timber. So tin the event of the blade biting/saw jamming in the cut, you will not need as much effort to maintain control of the saw.
Turn Pinner sideways🙂good call 🙏
Very informative, thank you! Do you have a video re the small floating shelves in the background?
At 2:25, I noticed something I've never obvserved before: even-layer-counts on the middle and right side. I've only ever seen (or at least noticed) odd-numbered layers on plywood before. I thought there was a specific reason for this, but dont' remember. Anyone have insight?
Just a guess but the plies alternate direction as they're stacked up and you'd want the outer face plies to go the same direction so that forces an odd number of plies.
Your idea on pin nails is good but typically when fastening plywood together you are going through the face of one piece into the edge of the other piece. So the nail can start the bend process before it enters the edge of the piece it is going into. Does anyone know an easy solution to that problem (which is really the problem with using a pin nailer) ?
Ive had that issue with 18g. My only advice is to aim straight and use the shortest length you can get away with so it doesnt deflect as much. Im not sure if pin nails have a chisel head like the brads in the video, but if you shoot them at the correct orientation like he showed it should work. They only tend to deflect in two directions, so orient them in a way that they deflect along the length, rather than out the sides.
When gluing I feel like you need squeeze out for a good looking joint but inevitably theres residue that messes up stain or finish in those spots. With ply you risk sanding through the veneer as well.
Any tips other than wipe excess with a wet rag/cotton swab and sand? I find it the worst in corners.
Try using a plastic drinking straw to get inside corners cleaned up while the glue is still wet.
@@tektrixter Thanks thats a good tip. A wet q tip works well but i bet itd be even better getting the majority out with a straw first.
Apply tape along the edges before glueing. The glue will squeeze out atop the tape. Once slightly rubbery, peel off both tape and glue.
@@branchandfoundry560 I will play around with that idea. It seems tricky though.
Ahhh... I think I see what youre saying. If its on a vertical surface and the squeeze out drips down the panel being glued.
I was picturing doing an inside corner, trying to get tape half way on each board while connecting a wet glue joint. It doesnt seem like itd work as good for vertical joints? Or inside corners. Thats what i was trying to picture how to tape lol.
@@A6Legit Here's the procedure. Before glueing, apply a strip of tape (painter's, masking, XYZ type) on each panel parallel & right up to the length of the glue joint. Inside corner, outside, abutting panels, whatever. Then glue up as normal. Glue will squeeze out onto the tape surface instead of the wood. If it's ton of glue (that will run), wipe it off the tape before it runs onto the wood. If just a little glue squeezed out, let it dry to rubbery, then remove tape & glue in one gooey mess to reveal clean wood along the joint. Hope that helps clarify. If not, let me know & I'll make a video of it on my channel! Best, Andrew Thiessen
I'm making a toy for a child, and I'm looking for some reasonably good quality plywood. Rockler sells Baltic Birch and my local lumber yard sells somthing they call "Russian Birch". What's the difference? I have not actually seen the Russian Birch, but I'm thinking that it's an inferior product that they can't legally call Baltic Birch. Also, Home Depot sells something called Sande plywood. What is that?
ah... Mister KENNETT!
Mind blown…all I’ve had to do is turn my pin nailer 90 degrees!?
Yeah...I envy you,In my country you can buy only crappy ply that is not good for anything actually...
Plywood, my "kind of wood"